brwainer

Reminder that it is legal to patch games so they can be played after the servers are shutdown: https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2015/11/u-s-govt-grants-limited-right-to-revive-games-behind-abandoned-servers/?amp=1 Shutting down the servers is inviting the community to start hacking at the game, with no recourse via copyright. Now, the community isn’t legally allowed to do more than provide an offline-play patch for users who have obtained the content already, but you know that’s not how this works. As for DLC, if you bought it once then I don’t care how you get the content bits into your computer.

Ummm… NASA and ESA aren’t the same thing. USA versus EU. EUROPEAN Space Agency. Also, just because it received a software update, doesn’t mean it no longer runs Windows 98.

If they’re using SC, that very highly implies you are dealing with GPON. That means you don’t need a simple Transceiver (for Ethernet signalling over fiber), but an ONT-on-a-stick. An example is https://www.huawei.com/ucmf/groups/public/documents/webasset/hw_415752.pdf An ONT is the GPON equivalent of a cable/DSL modem. The unit has to compatible with your ISP because they have to be able to provision it properly. With many ISPs they don’t support these ONT SFPs and only support their ONT boxes.

Or…. You can purchase a proper crossover cable for the same price as a regular patch cable, and not leave something crimped in the wall/panel that is not a straight-through, which is going to really mess with someone else or even yourself in the future who can’t figure out why the wire doesn’t work.

Please…. Please…. Stop repeating this statement as-is. If you look at 568a and 568b closely, you can see that a cable made like this is only crossing over two of the four pairs. A true crossover cable swaps all four pairs. The reason this myth happens is because such a cable does actually work as a crossover cable for 10/100 ethernet. But if you use it with gigabit devices, it won’t work. Most gigabit devices have Auto-MDIX, sometimes called Auto-Crossover. They have circuitry and logic to flip the pairs as needed. However, this only works for all four pairs at once. If you use an A/B cable with Auto-MDIX enabled devices, they will keep flipping around, and probably end up defaulting to a link speed of 10/half (the crossover detection is done at the same time and with the same logic as the speed and duplex detection). Early gigabit devices, most notably the uplink ports on Cisco 2950 series switches, do not have Auto-MDIX. An A/B cable used between these will not link at gigabit. If you buy or make a true crossover cable for use with this type of device, it will have all four pairs crossed over - one of the ends will be neither 568a nor 568b.

I don’t think so. In order to double the speed you have to double the frequency, which doesn’t sound like a lot but going from 16GHz to 32GHz is a lot more than 8GHz to 16GHz (4.0 to 5.0 versus 3.0 to 4.0). At this point, we’re getting into frequency territory that requires a lot of tricks to keep stable, meaning more layers in the PCB, more complicated routing, etc. So what this means is an X670E board will be a nightmare because they need to support high frequency everywhere including the slots and chips that connect through the chipset, where on X670 boards they only have to worry about the main GPU and M.2 slots (unclear purely from what was shared here whether the chipset’s CPU link is 4.0 or 5.0). That is probably going to make a bigger difference in board cost that whatever AMD charges for the chipset chip itself. This move was probably requested by the motherboard manufacturers.

Agree with others, but also: once you’ve put a solid core cable into a tight bend/position/etc, the damage is done and you can make it worse by straightening. This may be inevitable in the future when you need to use this service loop to re-terminate, but for now just leave it as you have installed it.

More than likely, those things import the DLL version of IE, just like the "IE Mode" in Edge does. The DLL isn't going away, just the frontend "Internet Explorer" application.

The hate comes from the fact that with IE4 through IE6, Microsoft aggressively tried to push web developers towards using code that only worked in IE, and actively worked against industry standards by only supporting things their way. Whole sections of early CSS books were dedicated to making things look the same in IE5, IE6, and Firefox/etc, with each version of IE requiring the most bizarre special handling. The differences between Firefox, Chrome, and Safari pale in comparison to the differences between the standards and IE < 7. I don’t disagree with your premise - Internet Explorer did a lot of good. But the people who set it up to be the butt of jokes were Microsoft, they created the legacy.

That makes sense from the public internet perspective. Especially things like government websites.

So I’m in a position where we still need to use IE for critical hardware that cannot be replaced until/unless it fails, because replacing it will cause a downtime worth millions (the same downtime will happen when it fails, but the business won’t approve a preemptive window). Luckily it works fine in IE Mode, but the act of using IE Mode makes me really question what “removing IE” means. As far as I can tell, the iexplore.exe, or at least all of its DLLs, are still present to make IE Mode work. So how is this more secure?

It could be dropped, or considering that the linked posted is from right at the start of the global pandemic, and companies like Cloudflare at the backbone of the internet had to pivot hard to handle the new traffic patterns of Work from Home and distance learning, it had to be put on the backburner. The type of system you’re talking about, where you somehow (public IP, something else) have a way for a public DNS server to give you customized results, is exactly what OpenDNS (also known as Cisco Umbrella for enterprise customers) has been doing for about a decade. I don’t know whether they have free or cheap offerings for home users but its worth looking at. With Umbrella (again, the commercial version of OpenDNS, it runs on the same servers at the same DNS IPs) you can either have a client on each device that adds an extra bit of identifying information to each request, or you can have your public IP registered with them to recognize, but unfortunately they made their own IP updater tool and don’t support standard DynDNS updater daemons that might run on a consumer router.

I respect wanting cheap, but definitely get something that uses AV2, because that will use the ground wiring in addition to the hot and neutral, which helps immensely. “AV2” is the specification, but you’ll commonly see things like “AV200”, “AV1200” - those are the theoretical max speed attainable. Anything listing AV600 or higher will be using AV2.

Right but the *advice* to maintain the twist as far as possible is aimed at people who worked with phone line exclusively for decades (before ethernet was common) and now only do ethernet even when doing phone work. The twists barely matter for 10/100, are important for 1Gb, and are crucial for 10Gb. The “half inch” is because when they designed and tested the specifications, that is all they allowed because in a truly high RF environment, every bit counts. That half inch untwisted is also a half inch that is unshielded when using S/FTP (shielded keystones exist but aren’t perfect, same with male connectors). But in a low RF environment, you’re fine either way.

Look closely at the screw in the center of your outlet covers. This screws into the metal housing of the socket, right? And the ground wire is connected to that housing as well, right? If not, you can replace the socket with one where the housing is grounded and therefore grounds the center screw. At that point you can just install the cable like this image on the right side: Or, you can get a device like the left side, the keywords to search for are “ESD Ground Plug”, but those are almost always for a banana plug. Source for the image: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/442373/how-can-i-get-ground-from-a-nema-5-15r-wall-socket-without-electricity

Woah, I'm really surprised that you found exactly what you were looking for! I figured you'd find something close enough, but that looks exactly like what you asked for.

@AnonymousGuyis correct, the answer you’re probably looking for is PFSense, OPNSense, Untangle, OpenWRT…. There’s a lot of options to take PC and make it a router, albeit with wired connections only, you need to add a separate hardware called an Access Point to provide wireless [you can turn your old router into an access point], and you may want a switch to provide extra ethernet ports. I want to address something else though. Depending on how long ago this was said, this was probably true for “most routers” and “gigabit internet”. Today that’s not an issue, any router claiming something like “AX1800” should have enough guts to handle gigabit internet, and if you pick wisely you don’t have to pay an arm and a leg for it. Today the main reason to go with PFSense/OPNSense/Untangle/etc is because you want more features and control than the regular off the shelf hardware/software can provide you. Another viable path for this is to take one of those routers, even brand new, and flash it with OpenWRT (check compatibility on OpenWRT’s site first). The community puts in a lot of effort to enable more features than manufacturers do.

NAS stands for Network Attached Storage… what you are looking for is Direct-Attached Storage, DAS. Its not strange, very normal, existed before NAS did. If you care about any amount of redundancy between the drives then Drobo is the “name brand”. I see NAS vendors like QNAP also make DAS which makes total sense. You could also just get a NAS and wire its ethernet directly to your computer. The only thing in all this is your requirement to be able to turn off the drives individually, that is not normal for any DAS. You might want a different type of product called a JBOD which in theory just gives you the disks.

Yep, some things you really wouldn't expect to be "networked" are easier to make that way. For example, an Antivirus program needs to have components that are at a very low level (directly inspecting other application's memory) and then the rest of it like doing the updates and providing the user an interface is at a high level. Some of them make this as completely separate elements that talk to each other over the internal localhost aka loopback networking.

Never use “localhost” as part of a name, but otherwise yes.

All currently sold Unifi models support “Wireless Uplink” which is what you are asking for. They only support this with other Unifi APs, it will not work with other vendors. Whether it will work well, depends on the distance between the APs and what obstructions there are.

Never, because the Type-C port is USB3, not USB4 or Thunderbolt. It doesn’t provide PCIe lanes. That is why they had to be taken from the M.2 NVMe slot, which is not something a regular user or commercial product would expect.

Public IPv4 addresses are expensive because we have run out and thus if you want more of them you have to bid on them from the companies that have extra. If they are a smaller/newer ISP then they probably don’t have enough IPs for even half their customers. In that case you can usually contact them for an upgrade and you’ll probably pay extra for it. EDIT: the other possibility is that the modem they gave you is actually a combined modem/router unit, and you want either a pure modem, or for that device to be set to bridge or passthrough mode.

Yeah, no reason to replace a normal router until you find something you want/need to do that it isn’t capable of.

Ummm no? WiFi 1 802.11a - 5GHz WiFi 2 802.11b - 2.4GHz WiFi 3 802.11g - 2.4GHz WiFi 4 802.11n - 2.4GHz and 5GHz (many devices 2.4GHz only - any router that lists N300 is 2.4GHz only) WiFi 5 802.11ac - 5 GHz (the 2.4GHz on any WiFi 5 device is actually the 2.4GHz from WiFi N) WiFi 6 802.11ax - 2.4GHz and 5 GHz (some routers/APs are not actually using WiFi 6 on 2.4GHz, they are still using WiFi 4 for 2.4GHz. For example, Unifi U6-Lite is using WiFi 4 on 2.4GHz and is thus rated at 300Mbps, while the Unifi U6-Pro is using WiFi 6 on 2.4GHz and is thus rated at 573.5Mbps - source https://ubntwiki.com/products/wireless_ap_comparison) WiFi 6E 802.11ax Extended - 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and 6GHz (the 2.4GHz and 5GHz are the same as WiFi 6, and a 6E router/AP should never be using WiFi 4 for 2.4GHz) So, WiFi 6E devices will still have the ability to use 2.4GHz when the range/signal dictates they should do so. And WiFi 6 brings improvements to 2.4GHz including higher speed and many power efficiency improvements that are intended for IoT devices.