Puntherline

Hello! I have the following problem with my ASUS Prime X370-Pro: I can use every USB slot up to it's rated speeds without any problems. When I turn the PC off and on again though, my keyboard is going through it's "first startup"-animation which usually never occured, but then it works completely fine. My Sennheiser GSX 1200 turns on while the board is booting, but then turns off completely. Once the PC is fully booted I have to re-connect the GSX 1200 and only then it's working. It's not a big problem but still annoying. Does anyone know how I could fix that? Here's my full specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 (3.7 GHz at 1.25v) CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Spire Mobo: Asus Prime X370-Pro (Latest stable BIOS version as of December 2018, don't know the exact build, sorry) RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4-3000 (Currently at 2866 MHz) GPU: Gainward GTX 1060 6GB (Factory OC only) - (Technically a GTX 650 as well, though only for a secondary HDMI slot) PSU: Cooler Master G450M (450W, 80+ Bronze efficiency) OS: Windows 10 Home, 64-bit Thank you in advance for all of your helpful answers! Update: I've disabled all overclocks and reset all settings in the UEFI, though the problem still occurrs.

If the ground loop isolator will not help the situation, I will consider getting a cable like that, though I might just ask a friend of mine if he can spare one of his clip-on ferrites just to see if that works. Thank you very much for your help so far! UPDATE: The ground loop isolator has just arrived like 5 minutes ago and I'm already done installing it and the noise has completely gone. Thank you very much for pointing me to them!

I've read up on ground loops and it seems to make sense. I didn't even know that something like that is possible... So I have purchased this ground loop isolator (the one that was recommended to me wasn't available in my country), which should get rid of problem, fingers crossed. It will probably arrive on the 30th of November.

That's what I thought, seemed too good to be true. I don't see how a ground loop isolator should help me, since the GSX 1200 isn't introducing that noise, but I'll still go ahead and buy it, just in case. I've got one last question though: In case that the isolator won't work, which kind of a soundcard would I be looking for? The audio from the GSX 1200 is in stereo at 16 Bit, 48,000Hz, just fyi. (At this point I'm hoping that something on the budget-end would do the trick.) Sorry if these questions make you facepalm, I'm a complete noob when it comes to sound as a whole.

Thank you very much for helping me! I am using the 3.5mm headphone output on the GSX 1200 and connect it to the 3.5mm input on my motherboard, the blue jack. I am finding many different USB interfaces. Would something cheap like this work at all (since they are advertising it as USB to headphone, not AUX to USB) or should I invest more than that? Coming to think of it, something like a splitter with one USB output and one 3.5mm output would be the best solution, if something like that exists. The only limiting factor would be money, as I've got enough space pretty much everywhere.

Hello! I have a very small problem which at this point is just a small inconvenience. I'll try to make it quick: When I connect my headset to my Sennheiser GSX 1200, it works perfectly without any background noise. When I try connecting it back to my PC (Asus Prime X370-PRO AUX input, to record or stream using OBS), the audio has a static hissing noise in the background, see attached .mp3 file for the exact sound. Is this being introduced by software settings/missing drivers or is it just because of a cheap AUX input on my motherboard? If so, I'd have a follow-up question: What do I need to fix it? I know that I'd need a soundcard for that, but what kind of prices/brands would I be looking at? Sorry for all these (possibly stupid) questions, I'm completely new to this. Thank you very much in advance for your helpful answers! static.mp3

The UFO test does 60/30/15 FPS, basically just dividing it by two. No way to compare 75 with 60. I know, however a 300fps video would give me every 5th frame on a 60hz monitor and every 4th frame on a 75hz monitor. That way you could see if your monitor is actually running at 75hz or not, since many screens (even older ones) are able to switch to 75hz on a lower resolution. It would just be a neat way to test it I guess.

Ryzen 7 1700 Asus Prime X370 Pro GTX 1060 2x8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB DDR4-3000 Res of the file would be 1080p, or maybe 720p, I don't know yet. No monitor can display 300hz (yet, I think), my monitor can do 60hz (75hz on lower res). The reason why I want to do this is to create a 300FPS video with two dots moving left/right. One at every 4th frame and one at every 5th frame. That results in 60 and 75 movements every second. So in theory people could use that video file to see wether they can actually get 75hz on 60hz screens or not. The 75hz dot would look choppy on a 60hz monitor and the 60hz dot would look choppy on a 75hz monitor. I'm thinking about that since there is (currently) no test to see wether a 75hz overclock actually works or not and it can be fairly difficult to spot the difference. Thanks for recommending VLC, I'll use that in this case.

Hello! I know that this is a bit of an odd one, but which video-player can play video files that have 300 frames in real time? Can every player do that or will they skip all frames that are too much? Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the late reply, had some internet issues while moving etc. I do understand the risks of PSU's being over-stressed, however I never stress both cards at the same time as well as the CPU. Both cards are running on their own (not in SLI, they don't support it) so that means when I play a game then only my 1060 is getting used, while the 650 is always idling, and the CPU never really get's higher than 50% usage on triple-A games so I'm kind of safe in that regard, since I never do anything more than that. Now to the solution: I've cleared the cmos and after that (just to be safe) did a factory reset. Then I installed the latest BIOS driver. After that, I reinstalled windows 10. Powered it on and it magically worked. A big thank you to everyone that tried to help me though!

Thanks! I've tried to do everything you've described, unfortunately nothing helped. I've put it into another system and it only worked with DVI, which didn't work in my system. HDMI is not working at all. The only thing I can think of is to just rma it and see if I can either get a new one or give up on my current PC for the next couple of months as I can't afford a new GPU right now.

I've checked how much power the system draws, it's close to 400W when the cpu and both cards are synthetically stressed. It's a bit old though, but quite good.

The BUS interface shows only "PCIEX_16_2" (my 650). My 1060 shows up when the 650 isn't in the system. Edit: When I have one card installed, they show up in the bios as "Type: running at x8 Native" Does that mean that the board is running them in x8 mode instead of x16 mode?

My PSU is the Cooler Master G450M (450W) and after reinstalling all drivers using DDU, only the GTX 650 is showing up in the device manager.

It did work for me in many cases (from multitaksing across 3 screens all the way to gaming across 3 screens) and it usually felt like it's just one GPU in my system. Sure, it is slower and uses less PCI-e lanes because of Ryzen's architecture but I've never had problems with it for over 2 years now, even with multiple reinstallations of Windows 10.