Y33

Today I learned XOC doesnt allow you to search for usernames with less than three characters, so I had to search for your XOC stats manually. 
 
Dont get me wrong, the stats.folding@home.com links are 100% valid but I like to link the site that has more stats 😉 

Ampere and Big Navi GPUS launch so soon, that I would recommend Just waiting, to see how it turns out. You might want to buy the new GPUs, or snag a good deal on the last-generation GPUs. AMD's next-gen CPUs, though, come out later this year, and they're still going to be on 7nm technology. I wouldn't expect too much of a performance bump, but hey, who knows? By the way, If you want to still purchase that 2060S, I would recommend a 5700xt with a tri or dual fan solution, like the XFX 5700xt thicc II/III, or thicc II/III ultra

Most LED failures are bond wires burning up or disconnecting (the tiny gold wires that connect the diodes to the packaging material (the led case, the metal contacts that get soldered to pcb)
If a diode inside the led package dies in some way that it stays shorted and not open (as if the diode isn't there), the bonding wires are so thin that they act like fuses and burn up or desolder themselves (rarely, as most often the bonding wires are ultrasonically welded to the package, not soldered with regular solder that would melt at 180-220 degrees Celsius) so again, the diode would be disconnected from the power supply.
 
If by some critical scenario in extreme circumstances those bonding wires don't break and the led becomes like a short circuit, the current going through the led would still be limited by the current limiting resistors on the strip, those black rectangles with 331 written on them in the pictures (in the link above). 331 means 330 x 101 or 330 ohm, which means that the current through each led is limited to  [ 12v - (3 x ~3.2v) ] / 330 = about 0.01A or 10 mA of current through each led.
 
In extreme failures the led packaging could overheat and smoke and the white plastic would brown up, but it's unlikely to ignite with flames as the resistor would limit the current going through the led. If somehow if you're extremely unlucky a resistor would also short out and let a lot of current go through, then the led packaging could eventually go in flames but by that time the shorted resistor would make smoke and you'd see it failed and the plastic case of the led would also make a lot of smoke and stink so you'd know something seriously wrong is going on with the strip of leds.
 
The strip itself is unlikely to burn , because it's just fiber glass glued to a thin sheet of aluminum (to dissipate heat better) ... it's nothing that can naturally burn.
 

Ah great! I like my system quiet so that's good to hear. Thanks.

Get the AF140s. Dust filter doesn't provide significant air resistance compared to a radiator - they are designed to provide as little air resistance as possible, and will run quieter at a given RPM because of their blade design. You can also run them at lower RPMs and get the same air flow, so your system will be quieter.

There is specifically a "quiet edition" of the AF140s I believe. I would assume that would be the one to go for in that situation.

Thanks for your suggestions! (and them linking to Dutch sites!) I think the PW2 and that led strip could be a really great combo, especially for the price!
 
And thanks to both you and @wzrd for the info on this topic.

I know it won't be anywhere near enough to buy me a 1070, all I'm hoping for is to minimize my loss on the 1050.
 
And that's exactly why I'm thinking that selling and upgrading now might just not be too bad of an idea after all. There's no way of knowing how long I'd have to wait and, as Krystic said, I could have been enjoying a 1070 in that time.

Alright, thank you!
 
I guess I'll just let fate decide and see how much the 1050 sells for. If it's a fair price then I'll upgrade, if not, I'll wait.