WeeemRCB

I'd be more tempted to place a silicone stopper under the right button to prevent it being depressed.

Easy to remove to return it back to normal use if needed.

Then to use right click functionality (in windows) press Shift + F10 to simulate a right-click

Hope that helps

On 11/23/2023 at 4:56 AM, chickencurry said:

Hey everyone,

I'm switching from Windows 11 to Pop OS Linux on my laptop, due to running out of space on the SDD for the Windows 11 install. However, I have crucial data stored on my M.2 SSD within my Windows environment that I need ongoing access to post-transition. Could anyone here offer guidance on how I can smoothly transition to Pop!_OS while ensuring continued access to the data on my M.2 SSD, currently utilized by Windows 11? Any insights, personal experiences, or recommended resources or products would be immensely appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help!

If you're only moving to a new OS due to lack of diskspace then you can remove unnecessary temp, log files and software update files to free up space.

Try WinDirStat to see what could be hogging the space

e.g. 

15 hours ago, Dot-_-Com said:

My downloads and documents Folders are already in my storage drive. all that is in my SSD is windows and drivers. When installed my drivers i used the custom install to make them download and install in my storage drive but they kept going into my SSD. When i get my new 2TB SSD im just gonna do a fresh install of windows and just have 1 drive 2TB Nvme Is enough space for me.

It shouldn't be that big.
My system is old as shit too and I run some space hungry programs on there (Photoshop suite etc)

1st thing to do is: Start | Run | cleanmgr.exe

This is the system "disk cleaner". Select C drive and then once it comes up with the list of things it can clean, ignore it and click "Clean up system files"
It will ask you for the C: drive again and this time it'll show you the same as before + the update backups.
This should get you back a decent amount of space.

On my system tho, the one thing that helped was Treesize.

Same idea as WinDirStat although I find it easier to read the old Treesize Pi-chart.

With that I saw that 1/3 of my 100Gb C partition was being used by Adobe updates.

Every time I opened a PDF, Adobe offers to do an update to the reader. I always ignore it, but what I didn't realise is that it downloaded it in the background ready to install. It does this for every new version, but because I never let it install it didn't expunge the download(s).

They get put in this directory:  C:\ProgramData\Adobe\ARM\
So I added a line to my logon/start-up script to auto remove them, so they no longer hog any space.

Here's all the files I remove on startup in case that's useful to keep your system clean too

Start /MIN cmd /c del /q /f C:\windows\user.dmp
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\windows\memory.dmp
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\windows\drwtsn32.log
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\windows\Qtc_temp*
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\temp\*.tmp
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\temp\~*
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F %temp%\*
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F %tmp%\*
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F %SystemRoot%\temp\*
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F C:\windows\~*.tmp
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F %userprofile%\Desktop\*.log
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F %userprofile%\AppData\Local\CrashDumps\*.dmp
Start /MIN cmd /c del /Q /F /S C:\ProgramData\Adobe\ARM\*

Before, my C drive was like yours - 99% full

After I got rid of the Adobe downloads: 

If you still want to migrate across to a new drive, I can recommend the Macrium Reflect software.
Put the new drive in a caddy and select "Clone Drive" and it'll clone it across.

Then power off, put the new drive in and boot up. Should work first time. 

You'd think Linus would be using something like NextCloud to auto-backup his (and the family) devices.

It can be self hosted on his NAS so maybe useful video project for the team to share?

Suggestion for remote start and shutdown .... as you have Home Assistant, use it (triggered by a zigbee or Wifi button) to send magic packet to power on.

To switch it off is pretty easy too. Just needs an addon (RPC Shutdown) to power the machine off and a local admin account on the PC for HomeAssistant to use.

To set it up - follow the steps in this vid (8mins 28s) 

Hi

I'd modded my old ASUS Strix 1080Ti card with an EK waterblock as part of a water loop I had in my system.

As time went by I updated my system back to air and changed the GPU to a 3 series card keeping the 1080 as a spare in case of issues.

The new system has remained stable and so I was looking to sell the 1080Ti on, but when I was converting it back to the triple fan I realised I couldn't find any of the card's screws.

I have one that holds a mounting bracket to the backplate if the card, but that's it. Just one 

Does anyone know where I could get them so I can return the card back to stock configuration?

Should be 4 for the heatsink and about 12-14 others for the backplate

It's cool to know that ideas posted on here do get read and picked up for future testing/videos

5 minutes ago, Drazil100 said:

I doubt they are gone forever. The hack was stopped relatively quickly and YouTube would be foolish to delete video files, descriptions, and comments immediately from their records. I am sure if the channels are public again that everything will be back by tomorrow.

Yea, it'll al be in a database.

Just needs to be restored to x point in time for his channels to recover them all 

Damn ... who was opening spam email on the PC that had cookies installed to access the LMG account?

Or maybe it could be done on a phone?

Linus mentioned he likes to sleep cool and  Yvonne likes to sleep warm.

This could be a perfect solution

https://www.eightsleep.com/uk/

"Automatic cooling and heating. The Pod dynamically cools and heats each half of the bed based on your personal sleep data."

4 hours ago, Stahlmann said:

All this Smart Home stuff seems like it takes more time and money to properly integrate than just walking over to a switch now and then. Plus you save all the headaches that come up when something suddenly decides to not work anymore. And it will happen because that's what tech does.

Here's a real world application

I've built a system that's almost ready to deploy into my elderly mum's house.
Motion sensors, door sensors, water leak sensors, thermostats, smart switches, a camera and a tidy wee dashboard interface for her mobile and tablet.

Why?

She's had a couple of falls this year, but hasn't called us because she didn't want us to worry 

She had an SOS dongle before, but didn't use it even though she was once down for over a day (covid related) 

I got her an early Crimbo present of an LTE smart watch which she loves. Complete with fall detection and SOS to replace the dongle, but we still don't completely trust her to use it.

So with the motion sensors I'm putting in, if she has another fall then, after a period of no motion all siblings will get an sms to let us know which room she was in last and how long she's not moved. That way we can call her to make sure she's ok or coordinate whoever's closest to stop by and make sure all is well.

Could be as simple as she's passed out on the sofa, but we can also account for false positives with logic.

Well worth the time and effort

Linus said at the end of the video that he may need to get separate temperature sensors.

There's no need, there is a workaround using the existing hardware.

My Aqara motion sensors also detect temperature, but they vary wildly in accuracy. Some are ok. Some way off.

Easy fix is to note each thermostat reading and use a laser temperature reader (like one used for for cooking) and measure either near the thermostat, or areas where people are most likely to inhabit. Take the thermostat reading and subtract the laser value and you have the offset you need to correct the thermostat.

Then you can either use the compensation integration to create sensors with a calculated correction.

or... create a simple template sensors for each thermostat instead.

Example: If the thermostat is reporting 25.0C, but next to it is a read of 20.0C, then the following template sensor will work:

    - name: thermostat_7_temperature_corrected
      unique_id: thisisauniqueid-4de0-b2b5-f2e2f8c4ccd3
      unit_of_measurement: °C
      icon: mdi:thermometer
      state: "{{ (states.sensor.ecobee_thermostat_7.state | float -5) | round(1) }}"

p.s. Shout out to fellow Scot Louis from ESH and his amazing mm wave motion sensor

On 6/15/2022 at 3:18 AM, Kid.Lazer said:

I think you missed my interpretation of "cost." I was speaking of time cost. The last line about the $10k is just in addition to that.

No, no  ... I got it.

You still missed the point.

It's like saying someone restoring/building a show car is a waste of time and money.

The builder enjoys the build, enjoys the hobby, can tinker as much or little as they like, make it custom or buy off the shelf, enjoy using it and sharing the final results and others get to enjoy it too.

They're not wrong for doing it just because other people don't recognise the value and enjoyment of it.

And it's not like they're spending your money lol

6 hours ago, Kid.Lazer said:

Yes, but at what cost? So you could potentially save an entire day's worth of time over a year by using automation. Yet it would probably take a week to setup in its entirety, plus other tweaks over time as room usage changes and the family grows. At the end of the day (no pun intended) Linus will have ended up wasting more time, in addition to 10's of thousands of dollars.

You've totally missed the point.
This was just one isolated example of how automations can improve home life as well as save cost over time.

People will pay for convenience. That's always been the case.

Not that long ago, owning a dishwasher was seen as excessive or extravagant. Nowadays it's normal for homes to have one (or more). Which costs money.

Automation in the home will one day (soon) be the norm  

4 hours ago, Caroline said:

I've reached a point where I can't even understand what the point of all this crap is, other than making people waste their money of course.

 

Something as simple as flipping a switch and having light in a room becomes a nightmare when you overcomplicate it that much.

The problem with the switches was with the manufacturer, not the end user so it looks bad in this light, as it would with any faulty product.

My desire is to have an automated home (not a "smart home") that is simple so it compliments your home life and be seamless in the background.

Like headlights on your car that automatically come on when it's dark enough. Such a simple thing and it quickly becomes second nature to let it do it for you.

Another advantage is that it saves time. A video I saw recently there was a guy saying it took him about 4 minutes at night to walk through the house switching off lights (he has kids) before he went to bed. Not a chore in itself, but over a year that works out to be 24hrs. 1 whole day of the year spent just switching off lights at night.

The hardest thing I found in setting up mine is re-training myself not to switch lights off when leaving a room. I set up mine about a month ago and I'm still occasionally trying to knock the light switch with my elbow when leaving the kitchen with my hands full  

Linus called for ideas at the end of the video.

Just the one.

Swap the switches out for regular smart switches/dimmers (z-wave or zigbee) and use ESP32's running ESPresense in the rooms.

This will give you much more exact motion tracking as it works on detecting signal strength to any Bluetooth device you carry all the time. Phone, fitbit etc...

Add some simple motion detectors per room as a backup (like the Aqara FP1) for the times a guest or contactor may be moving about and you're good to go.

It'll be a bit more work to configure, but it'll give you a lot more "Bill Gates" level of motion tracking through your home.

There was a very good video on setting it up and how it works by Everything Smart Home (below)

Aw... the disappointment on LS face when he found out that the LED backlighting is static.

It's way to big for an out of the box solution like Philips or Govee, but there is a way if he wants to assign someone to DIY it.

Saw how to do it here (smaller scale of course):

It's an interesting idea.

Kinda like audio ducking with a delay after talking and then a slow fade out to 0% opacity.

I think the easiest way might be with a transition and key bind it to the same key as PTT.

That way you manually activate it to talk then transition to 0 when you release (or toggle off)

The advantage is that you can throw expressions to cam without needing to talk if something goofy happens in game

Got it sussed.

I started using Tdarr for bulk processing and it now uses 95+% on a single encode and 100% on 2 or more.

What's really handy is that I can still use my Handbrake presets in Tdarr

Sample Transcode Options | CLI arguments/preset:

--preset-import-file "C:\Handbrake_Presets_backup\20211003_PCName.json" -Z "My Preset Name"

I have plenty of spare RAM, so I started using a 12Gb RAM drive (ImDisk) so transcoding won't add extra R/W cycles on my SSDs while processing.

Tdarr lets you specify the transcode folder, but Handbrake uses the %Temp% path for its transcoding before putting the final file in its destination path.

On 9/18/2021 at 2:17 PM, RollinLower said:

I'm aware that it's stuck to the radiator, but the pump part of it looks a lot like a standard DDC.

It kinda was, but it was also integrated into the rad housing so to repair it I'd have had to strip it apart and rebuild the internals (assuming the pump failed and not something electrical) I'm handy with tinkering, but I wouldn't want to try to do an open repair as it needs to be reliable.

I'm all sorted now tho.

Setting up a new water loop was crazy expensive, so I sink the money into a new GPU and went back to air instead.

The Noctua NH-D15 is a lot quieter than I expected. Quieter than the old watercooling at low-mid temperatures (it used to gurgle a bit  )

Noise cancelling headphones take care of the noise when it ramps up a bit.

I'll convert my old 1080Ti back to air too and either keep it as a spare or sell it on with the EK waterblock if 2nd hand prices go back up.

Recoup some of the cost of the new RTX card 

On 9/16/2021 at 5:47 PM, RollinLower said:

doesn't the mlc just use a regular DDC pump? you could totally just swap in a new one.

No, it's part of the radiator assembly.

Which sux as when the pump goes then I can't remove it

Cheers, I'll get the pump and connectors and have a go.

Fingers crossed ....

Hi

I've been using a EK-MLC PHOENIX 280 for a few years.

It's an AIO that cooled CPU and GPU and is(was) a great bit of kit that I used on my I7-6700 and subsequent AMD CPU/Mobo upgrade 18months ago

But last night the pump in the radiator stopped and, that's the end of that I guess.

It's an end of life product so no chance to replace the dead pump/rad.

Two things I really liked about the phoenix was the quick-connectors as well as the handy fill port on top of the radiator.

My initial thinking is that I can get a standalone pump, some EK Quick Connectors and continue with the setup as it is, but I'm not sure if that would work?

That way the radiator doubles as the reservoir and in theory it should continue to work as long as the dead radiator pump doesn't block liquid flow (can they seize)?

I would replace the radiator/pump with a new 280 rad, but I think I'd have to get an external reservoir, so it's adding more parts and connectors and pipes

I have an NH-D15 coming tomorrow for the CPU. Primarily as a backup, but I'm not against switching to it as I've heard they're very quiet and almost as good as an AIO for cooling.

Not many of my games utilise my CPU that much, so 95% as good as an AIO is fine, but I 100% do not want to go back to fans on my GPU.

I'd be happy to use the NH-D15 alongside a GPU AIO, but there's no real GPU AIO solutions out there (that I could find).

Any advise welcome.

Case: Enthoo Evolve ATX

Hi

I occasionally use handbrake for NVENC encoding and I noticed my GPU (1080Ti) usage was pretty low.

Looking at TaskManager I can see that the GPU Video Encode is pinned to 50% and my CPU (3900X) is hovering around 30-40% usage.

Is there a way to derestrict or adjust the software to allow its encoding to use 100% of the NVENC chip on my GPU?

It should be able to do it it's not bottlenecked by any of the other components.