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Per device? No. Probably just because the kids that have them know how to do a lot more with them and therefore are just using more data.

Fostex TH/TR-X00

DT1770 is really bad. They are really sharp and the sound signature is also. They also have quite the reputation for breaking.

DT990s are really painful to listen to. Their treble is way too much. People who actually have an understanding of headphones and a context of the market will not recommend the DT990. The DT880 has quite a bit less bass than the DT990 and it's treble, while still a lot is bearable. They are also pretty resolving for the price and have nice comfort. HD598 was a good headphone for it's time, but now with the existence of other things it doesn't make a whole lot of sense at it's current price. HD58X is alright, but it is far less dynamic and detailed than the HD6XX which is only $50 more and is worth it. Although HD6XX is a bit harder to drive than the HD58X, and they can really benefit from a DAC/Amp as they scale quite well. If you have a higher end motherboard with decent onboard it should push them, but even at this realm not having a DAC/Amp will bottleneck some sound quality for sure, I always recommend getting one if you are serious enough to care about good headphones. If you didn't want to get a DAC/Amp I would take a AKG K612 over a 58X personally for the same price.

I explained in that thread why, "Hearing it as the composer intended it" is not really a thing.

Speakers don't have signatures per say. The room that they are in and how you place them all majorly change the signature.

DT990 is really bad, if you want Beyers get the DT880 which is quite good. HD598 is ok but doesn't make sense with the 58X, 58X is ok but doesn't make sense if you can afford the 6XX and an amp, AD500X is not that great, and M50X is one of my least favorite headphones of all time. Do you have any idea of like open or closed, sound signature, the type of music you listen do, if you can use a DAC/Amp, anything like that?

Ok so first off are you sure you want a neutral sound?

Under $150 closed back, Creative Aurvana Live. If you can stretch to $200 AKG K553

No none of them are necessarily crap. They just have a narrowly defined usage. If you want to listen to music for enjoyment those are not what you want. If you actually want to use them for monitoring they are fine.

What? No your headphones don't have an sort of DAC/Amp if they are not USB or battery powered.

Ok I’m busy right now so I’ll respond to this in depth in a bit. But just FYI the Amirion and HD820 are awful. I’ll explain more later.

You could just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=F860AB8X4W2L&keywords=usb+audio+adapter&qid=1550086902&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+aud%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-3

But his onboard is dead so how would that work?

Maybe not. It could not OC at all.

Serious question. Do you try to make everything you say intentionally wrong? I have never seen you post one thing about anything that was even close to being correct.

M50Xs are trash. Get some Creative Aurvana Live or AKG K553.

Ok so when it comes to driving headphones there is two factors. Impedance and sensitivity. Think of it this way. So on a real headphone amp you will see power ratings given in mW at different ohm ratings. The impedance determines how much power a certain device can push to the headphones at their impedance. Then what happens after that is sensitivity comes into place. That is a measure of how power power in mW is needed to reach a certain volume. So it is actually possible to have a 16ohm headphone that is hard to drive than a 600ohm one. (There actually isn't an example of this in real life but it is possible) So you amp can put more power into 16ohms than 600ohms, but the 16ohm one could require a lot more power to reach a certain volume that the 600ohm one does. What a receiver gives as a rating impedance means basially nothing. And whatever you said about it saying 470ohms and the 1990s only being 250 is not that how that is calculated. Also sound cards are not good for high quality audio FYI.

Oh also avoid sound cards like the plague. Get something like a Schiit stack or something.

That is not how that works. The ohm rating means nothing at all. Impedance doesn't mean a headphone is hard to drive, sensitivity does. I don't even know where to start with this. Literally everything you said here is wrong.

Shure IEMs and headphones suck though. Only good thing they make is their mics.