Zeuligan

Was with extra excitment that I was ready to start working with the front case part of this mod. I have had an idea about the front since I started this project. In fact, it was the idea of the front that even started this whole project. 
 
 
First I need to ensure it's located in the right location. Had an idea how to fasten this part. Still thinking modularity...
 
 

 
10mm wide, small stuff...
 
 

 
My idea of a fastening "tool" to get these clamps in the right location.
 
 

 
Added Acryfix to create a ridge that I then filed down into a rectangular edge...
 
 

 
All eight fastening brackets in place.
 
 

 
Decided to go with a little different solution for the front. I need a frame to anchor the other parts. More stability and I can also create parts in different levels. 
 
 

 
Look at that. It snapped even harder than the original. Amazing what you can do with a little acrylic and a file.
 
 

 
Next step is to start to build the shape and design of the front. After a few paper templates, tape and four mugs of coffee I decided for a design. 
 
 

 
Symetrical design requires two of each.
 
 

 

 
Two turns four.
 
 

 

 
Enough parts to start to do the real first building. 
 
 

 
This is actually the front. The case is flipped. Just makes it easier to work with. Here this beautiful radiator from EK will be mounted on the outside of the case frame. 
 
 

 
I starts to look like a real computer. Love when you reach the part where you can start to unpack components for the first time. 
 
Next update will contain the real design of the front. Stay tuned and as always, please share your thoughts or questions...

Big progress on the base structure and bottom part of the custom pc casemod. With the last part of this mod finished with a fairly solid structure, this part will be all about filling the gaps in the exterior acrylic and make one solid structure. 
 

 
With the front part of the bottom almost done, I continued on the back side. First angle in place and I got my pattern and most of the parts already prepared.
 
 

 
I just can't stop creating angles and triangles in this mod
 
 

 
It will look amazing once it's done...I hope...
 
 

 
Hard to see on the pictures, but each triangle creates an angled to the next.
 
 
Two longer parts for the front, want the edge to move forward and create a bridge to the front exterior part.
 

 
Forgot to replicate one piece, so had to measure and create a template.
 
 

 
A litte bigger piece to stay with a balanced look of the exterior.
 
 

 
Like an arm workout this mod. Spent hours with this little saw already. Not a bad tool for hand-cutting acrylic tbh.
 
 

 
Final piece of the side. Long skarp edge.
 
 

 
Both symetrical and a little kickass.
 
 

 
Just the backside to close before the entire back
 
 

 
Snug fit...
 
 

 
Small triangles with even smaller angled edges. Not sure how many times I cut my self on the hand file making these two...
 
 

 
Almost done...
 
 

 
Looks a little messy, but as this will not be a transparent piece, I opted for speed and durability.
 
 

 

 
Fully assembled and without any protective plastic for the first time.
 
 

 
Feet still fits perfectly and completes the angled look really nice...
 
 

 

 

 
If you wonder, no, it will not stay this way, but will be either wrapped in a matt black car vinyl or painted black, depending on what result works the best.
 
I would love to hear what you think...
 

It was with equal excitement and anxiety I moved on to starting with the bottom base structure of my custom exterior. The concept in my mind has always been about the beautiful Nvidia 1080Ti design combined with a stelth fighter. With that in mind I also have one major problem to solve, each side needs to be equal to create a symetrical and balanced overall look and design. 
 
With that in mind, without blueprints, my only solution will be to create, than recreate. 
 

 
I want a cleaner and calmer exterior than my PSU Shroud. Also I felt that to ensure symetry I need a few larger base pieces and rather accent them with more angles / triangles. 
After literally staring for the case for 60min, cutting templates in carbord, holding up acrylic pieces I decided for a base shape and marked it down on a 3mm sheet. 
 
 

 
Table clamp and hand saw felt easy but each time the saw gets stuck (and it does VERY easily) I broke the sheet. It's only 30mm wide at the base and 15mm at the tip and still 540mm long. Very fragile!
 
 

 
After 2! extra round trips to the store and another 200€ in plexi I managed to create the first piece. I wish for a laser cuter!
 
 

 
Reason I need to get more sheets every time I brake it, is that I wanted to keep the store (machine) cut edge against the glass. Only gives me 2 cuts / sheet to work with. But glad I took that decision. Looks really good. 
 
 

 
From above. Looks a little crooked, but this is before my 20min hand filing it edged and straight. 
 
 

 

 
Another 2h spent with cardboard and cursing, I decided on next step in the exterior design. Many angles to factor into each piece.
 
 

 
This is a shot all to familiar after the PSU shroud. Hand filed angles to ensure maximum contact with a good end result.  
 
 

 
Before I could move on, I created and added 4 more cross-brackets to my feet/stand solution. Last chance before I mount the top layer permanently. 
 
 

 
Before I could do that, I need to create more airflow aswell as an access panel for future mounting needs. Nervous to cut, as I don't want to crack the entire plate forcing me to start over. 
 
 

 
Not a bad end result if I can say so my self. Still don't work with anything but small hand tools and hands. 
 
 

 
Nothing left to do but to use Acrifix ontop of my custom leg brackets and fixate the top layer. 
 
 

 
One last thing to do before mounting the first real pieces of the custom exterior. REPLICATE! This is how I think and will work with this mod. First create a part, ensure it work, mark it down not to loose the shape and size and after a successful mounting of one side. Replicate and repeat. First 2 shapes saved for the future...
 
 

 
Very exciting to start to fixate the first parts of the custom exterior case. 
 
 

 

 
540mm in length and angled outwards. 
 
 

 
While waiting for the first side to set I moved on to create the parts for the other side. 
 
 

 
Managed to saw the long part at first try, yeay...
 
 

 
Just to show just how much hand filing I do for each piece. First to file it into the right shape and with straight edges. Then to angle the sides it eats away even more...
 
 

 
All done. Acrylic is such a beautiful material. 
 
 

 
More clamps and Acrifix on the other side. Only time will tell at this point...
 
 

 
Look at that. Already starting to look like a computer case Don't you think?
 
 

 

 
Will give a good structure to work with and add more angled shapes. Will be able to finish both sides and the backside, but think I will need to leave the front. Not sure how the front will look like and still need to make the bottom part, front part and top part fit together. Will be a challenge, but a challenge for the future. First I need to finish the entire bottom part. 

This is looking really stunning so far. I can't wait to see the finished project.
 

It was with equal excitement and anxiety I moved on to starting with the bottom base structure of my custom exterior. The concept in my mind has always been about the beautiful Nvidia 1080Ti design combined with a stelth fighter. With that in mind I also have one major problem to solve, each side needs to be equal to create a symetrical and balanced overall look and design. 
 
With that in mind, without blueprints, my only solution will be to create, than recreate. 
 

 
I want a cleaner and calmer exterior than my PSU Shroud. Also I felt that to ensure symetry I need a few larger base pieces and rather accent them with more angles / triangles. 
After literally staring for the case for 60min, cutting templates in carbord, holding up acrylic pieces I decided for a base shape and marked it down on a 3mm sheet. 
 
 

 
Table clamp and hand saw felt easy but each time the saw gets stuck (and it does VERY easily) I broke the sheet. It's only 30mm wide at the base and 15mm at the tip and still 540mm long. Very fragile!
 
 

 
After 2! extra round trips to the store and another 200€ in plexi I managed to create the first piece. I wish for a laser cuter!
 
 

 
Reason I need to get more sheets every time I brake it, is that I wanted to keep the store (machine) cut edge against the glass. Only gives me 2 cuts / sheet to work with. But glad I took that decision. Looks really good. 
 
 

 
From above. Looks a little crooked, but this is before my 20min hand filing it edged and straight. 
 
 

 

 
Another 2h spent with cardboard and cursing, I decided on next step in the exterior design. Many angles to factor into each piece.
 
 

 
This is a shot all to familiar after the PSU shroud. Hand filed angles to ensure maximum contact with a good end result.  
 
 

 
Before I could move on, I created and added 4 more cross-brackets to my feet/stand solution. Last chance before I mount the top layer permanently. 
 
 

 
Before I could do that, I need to create more airflow aswell as an access panel for future mounting needs. Nervous to cut, as I don't want to crack the entire plate forcing me to start over. 
 
 

 
Not a bad end result if I can say so my self. Still don't work with anything but small hand tools and hands. 
 
 

 
Nothing left to do but to use Acrifix ontop of my custom leg brackets and fixate the top layer. 
 
 

 
One last thing to do before mounting the first real pieces of the custom exterior. REPLICATE! This is how I think and will work with this mod. First create a part, ensure it work, mark it down not to loose the shape and size and after a successful mounting of one side. Replicate and repeat. First 2 shapes saved for the future...
 
 

 
Very exciting to start to fixate the first parts of the custom exterior case. 
 
 

 

 
540mm in length and angled outwards. 
 
 

 
While waiting for the first side to set I moved on to create the parts for the other side. 
 
 

 
Managed to saw the long part at first try, yeay...
 
 

 
Just to show just how much hand filing I do for each piece. First to file it into the right shape and with straight edges. Then to angle the sides it eats away even more...
 
 

 
All done. Acrylic is such a beautiful material. 
 
 

 
More clamps and Acrifix on the other side. Only time will tell at this point...
 
 

 
Look at that. Already starting to look like a computer case Don't you think?
 
 

 

 
Will give a good structure to work with and add more angled shapes. Will be able to finish both sides and the backside, but think I will need to leave the front. Not sure how the front will look like and still need to make the bottom part, front part and top part fit together. Will be a challenge, but a challenge for the future. First I need to finish the entire bottom part. 

Looking good, I love seeing updates on this build! 

Strange feeling, but the build is actually done.
Scary, very scary, but done. So many my first;
First modding project
First water cooling project
First photo project
First time sleeving
First time working with acrylic or vinyl
and much more.
I spent most of the morning frenetically turning nobs on my new studio flash and cursing the to narrow backdrop. Ended up with some images that actually worked. Point of no return. 
 
Hope you like the end result and as always, feel free to comment or ask questions if there is anything you want to know more about.
Thank you everyone that supported me me in this thread with engagement, help and comments and of course, a huge thank you to be quiet! that decided to sponsor this project half way in. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

After creating the base plate bracket it was time to move on with creating the base structure of the base exterior. I got inspired by the original stands of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 as they are angled, so decided to try to incorporate them.
 

 
What's not to like with feet like this, but hard to fixture in a none permanent way to the case...
 
 

 
After moving around the feet / stand I found the right angle. Just continue with the angle of the feet and intersect with the corner.
 
 

 
That intersection messurement turned out to be 35mm.
 
 

 
28mm deep and 98mm long. Time to do some cutting and filing
 
 

 
That turned out really good. Reason for leaving the foot a little outside the base plate is I want to incorporate it with the exterior angles that will become the exterior base piece. I also decided to turn the feet angled outside, to give it a more firm look at the base. If my solution for a modular fit works out, I can always turn them around at a later stage.
 
 

 
After the successful first cut, I marked out the remaining 3 holes for the case feets and put my dremel saw to use. After some hand filing it somehow turn out very simular to the chassi of a car
 
 

 
My simple idea and concept for a fixture for the base feets.
 
 

 
Test fit, looks alright.
 
 

 
Four of them all done. The little extra extension isn't a misstake but something I will use a later stage...
 
 

 
To finish of the last layer of the base structure I need good ventilation. Decided to put some mesh I had laying around to use. Marked 2 large sections with the same frame dimensions as the depth of the feet.
 
 

 
That Dremel Moto Saw isn't a bad thing when doing stuff like this. Very happy as I didn't crack the plate. Just need to file it down smooth and straight and we are good to go.
 
 

 
This is how I imagined it. This is how It will be when looking at it from underneath. Not sure anyone will ever do that, but hey, we mod for the fun of creating details
The mesh will be painted in the accent color of the build - blue.
 
 

 
Wroom wroom...
 
 

 
Fixed the four mounting brackets with Acrifix and ensured they are all positioned equally.
 
 

 
Added a small counter bracket to also include a small "dot" to make the feet snap in place.
 
 

 

 
With the previously created bottom base plate, this is starting to look like the bottom of a case exterior.
 
 

 
Base plate ontop of each other with the inner case frame clipped on. It's to this frame I will fix the base structure of a still to find out, pattern of triangles and angled pieces, just like the PSU Shroud and that will start with the next update.
 
How do you feel about this mod so far? Let me know in the comments below...

Definitely going to follow this build, looks astounding thusfar and can only get better! Fancy building me one ?

Aaaand now I want a workshop, money to buy computer parts and the skill you possess. Great job dude!

After creating the base plate bracket it was time to move on with creating the base structure of the base exterior. I got inspired by the original stands of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 as they are angled, so decided to try to incorporate them.
 

 
What's not to like with feet like this, but hard to fixture in a none permanent way to the case...
 
 

 
After moving around the feet / stand I found the right angle. Just continue with the angle of the feet and intersect with the corner.
 
 

 
That intersection messurement turned out to be 35mm.
 
 

 
28mm deep and 98mm long. Time to do some cutting and filing
 
 

 
That turned out really good. Reason for leaving the foot a little outside the base plate is I want to incorporate it with the exterior angles that will become the exterior base piece. I also decided to turn the feet angled outside, to give it a more firm look at the base. If my solution for a modular fit works out, I can always turn them around at a later stage.
 
 

 
After the successful first cut, I marked out the remaining 3 holes for the case feets and put my dremel saw to use. After some hand filing it somehow turn out very simular to the chassi of a car
 
 

 
My simple idea and concept for a fixture for the base feets.
 
 

 
Test fit, looks alright.
 
 

 
Four of them all done. The little extra extension isn't a misstake but something I will use a later stage...
 
 

 
To finish of the last layer of the base structure I need good ventilation. Decided to put some mesh I had laying around to use. Marked 2 large sections with the same frame dimensions as the depth of the feet.
 
 

 
That Dremel Moto Saw isn't a bad thing when doing stuff like this. Very happy as I didn't crack the plate. Just need to file it down smooth and straight and we are good to go.
 
 

 
This is how I imagined it. This is how It will be when looking at it from underneath. Not sure anyone will ever do that, but hey, we mod for the fun of creating details
The mesh will be painted in the accent color of the build - blue.
 
 

 
Wroom wroom...
 
 

 
Fixed the four mounting brackets with Acrifix and ensured they are all positioned equally.
 
 

 
Added a small counter bracket to also include a small "dot" to make the feet snap in place.
 
 

 

 
With the previously created bottom base plate, this is starting to look like the bottom of a case exterior.
 
 

 
Base plate ontop of each other with the inner case frame clipped on. It's to this frame I will fix the base structure of a still to find out, pattern of triangles and angled pieces, just like the PSU Shroud and that will start with the next update.
 
How do you feel about this mod so far? Let me know in the comments below...

After creating the base plate bracket it was time to move on with creating the base structure of the base exterior. I got inspired by the original stands of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 as they are angled, so decided to try to incorporate them.
 

 
What's not to like with feet like this, but hard to fixture in a none permanent way to the case...
 
 

 
After moving around the feet / stand I found the right angle. Just continue with the angle of the feet and intersect with the corner.
 
 

 
That intersection messurement turned out to be 35mm.
 
 

 
28mm deep and 98mm long. Time to do some cutting and filing
 
 

 
That turned out really good. Reason for leaving the foot a little outside the base plate is I want to incorporate it with the exterior angles that will become the exterior base piece. I also decided to turn the feet angled outside, to give it a more firm look at the base. If my solution for a modular fit works out, I can always turn them around at a later stage.
 
 

 
After the successful first cut, I marked out the remaining 3 holes for the case feets and put my dremel saw to use. After some hand filing it somehow turn out very simular to the chassi of a car
 
 

 
My simple idea and concept for a fixture for the base feets.
 
 

 
Test fit, looks alright.
 
 

 
Four of them all done. The little extra extension isn't a misstake but something I will use a later stage...
 
 

 
To finish of the last layer of the base structure I need good ventilation. Decided to put some mesh I had laying around to use. Marked 2 large sections with the same frame dimensions as the depth of the feet.
 
 

 
That Dremel Moto Saw isn't a bad thing when doing stuff like this. Very happy as I didn't crack the plate. Just need to file it down smooth and straight and we are good to go.
 
 

 
This is how I imagined it. This is how It will be when looking at it from underneath. Not sure anyone will ever do that, but hey, we mod for the fun of creating details
The mesh will be painted in the accent color of the build - blue.
 
 

 
Wroom wroom...
 
 

 
Fixed the four mounting brackets with Acrifix and ensured they are all positioned equally.
 
 

 
Added a small counter bracket to also include a small "dot" to make the feet snap in place.
 
 

 

 
With the previously created bottom base plate, this is starting to look like the bottom of a case exterior.
 
 

 
Base plate ontop of each other with the inner case frame clipped on. It's to this frame I will fix the base structure of a still to find out, pattern of triangles and angled pieces, just like the PSU Shroud and that will start with the next update.
 
How do you feel about this mod so far? Let me know in the comments below...

A short update, while I publish the next part. My solution for the base plate brackets turned out really good. Tight fit and snaps on firmly. Made a short clip to illustrate (can hear the snug fit).
 
 
 

A custom hand made exterior case in acrylic for the Dark Base Pro 900 will be a challenge. A huge one, but a challenge I knew from start would be needed to complete the vision of the project.
 
TBH, I don't even have a plan, but need to make it up as I go along. After some fiddiling and thinking I made the decision to build from the ground up. If it can't stand it can't function. Took a trip to the local hardware store and picked up 2m2 of 3mm acrylic and 1m2 of 5mm acrylic.
 

 
3 sheets of acrylic in the background. It will be enough for a few days.
 
 

 
After previous struggle with keeping straight lines with the type of acrylic I can get my hands on at the local hardware store, I decided to try this little saw. Expensive, but worth a shot.
 
 

 
The case is 525mm long, so had to get 1000x750 sheets (of course). Marked out 525x240mm for top and bottom sheets and made a short prayer for my new saw.
 
 

 
Really happy with the saw. Fast to saw and it performed over expectations. Straight, fast and fairly clean cut. Not that much (only a few min per cut) to file.
 
 

 
I have a plan to keep the lower part of the case a little larger than the footprint of the rest of the case. That way I get a more visual base and I can also angle my angles slightly outwards, making the overall design cleaner. Atleast I hope so, as I don't have a blueprint...
In the picture, the case is fliped upside down.
 
 

 
A test fit of the 3 parts, bottom, top and front and some measurements, calculations I was ready to start for real. Bottoms up!
 
 

 
I will need to ensure that the PSU will be able to ventilate itself, so I have to make room for airflow. Time to mark for some Dremel action.
 
 

 
Every 10mm feels like a good space. Keeps maximum amount of holes (staying sane while drilling) and least amount of risk breaking the entire plate. It's a measurement I have used in the past for this type of work.
 
 

 
A few holes to drill...
 
 

 
I still feel the small Dremel actually performance surprisingly good. One way I do is to jug the drill up and down (as it tends to bend a little in the shaft) untill I have a round mark where I want the hole and then add preasure to make the actuall hole. Keeps it straight and accurate.
 
 

 
After 30min all the holes are drilled and I'm happy with the result. Trying to keep the protective plastic on as long as possible.
 
 

 
Used my Acrylic fix and "glued" two pieces of 4mm together. I had an idea both for the modilarity I always try to keep when I build, but also for it turned out to be a good distance for the base plate.
 
 

 
Looks more messy than it is, still not dry here. Not sure you can guess what I'm up to?
 
 

 
Clips for the entire bottom piece. It worked out amazing. Resistance, without any room to wiggle. Super happy.
 
 

 

 
8mm distance and a base plate that sticks to the case just like the original piece. With 5mm wider plate than the case and 8mm of distance I will have a nice angle of the exterior angles that I will start to create in the next part of the base floor.
 

Finally I'm back to modding after a long absence. 
Had the time to sort my filming of the shroud and edit it down to 24min (from 3,5h). 

I hope you enjoy it...more to come soon...
 
 
 

This is pretty neat!

A custom hand made exterior case in acrylic for the Dark Base Pro 900 will be a challenge. A huge one, but a challenge I knew from start would be needed to complete the vision of the project.
 
TBH, I don't even have a plan, but need to make it up as I go along. After some fiddiling and thinking I made the decision to build from the ground up. If it can't stand it can't function. Took a trip to the local hardware store and picked up 2m2 of 3mm acrylic and 1m2 of 5mm acrylic.
 

 
3 sheets of acrylic in the background. It will be enough for a few days.
 
 

 
After previous struggle with keeping straight lines with the type of acrylic I can get my hands on at the local hardware store, I decided to try this little saw. Expensive, but worth a shot.
 
 

 
The case is 525mm long, so had to get 1000x750 sheets (of course). Marked out 525x240mm for top and bottom sheets and made a short prayer for my new saw.
 
 

 
Really happy with the saw. Fast to saw and it performed over expectations. Straight, fast and fairly clean cut. Not that much (only a few min per cut) to file.
 
 

 
I have a plan to keep the lower part of the case a little larger than the footprint of the rest of the case. That way I get a more visual base and I can also angle my angles slightly outwards, making the overall design cleaner. Atleast I hope so, as I don't have a blueprint...
In the picture, the case is fliped upside down.
 
 

 
A test fit of the 3 parts, bottom, top and front and some measurements, calculations I was ready to start for real. Bottoms up!
 
 

 
I will need to ensure that the PSU will be able to ventilate itself, so I have to make room for airflow. Time to mark for some Dremel action.
 
 

 
Every 10mm feels like a good space. Keeps maximum amount of holes (staying sane while drilling) and least amount of risk breaking the entire plate. It's a measurement I have used in the past for this type of work.
 
 

 
A few holes to drill...
 
 

 
I still feel the small Dremel actually performance surprisingly good. One way I do is to jug the drill up and down (as it tends to bend a little in the shaft) untill I have a round mark where I want the hole and then add preasure to make the actuall hole. Keeps it straight and accurate.
 
 

 
After 30min all the holes are drilled and I'm happy with the result. Trying to keep the protective plastic on as long as possible.
 
 

 
Used my Acrylic fix and "glued" two pieces of 4mm together. I had an idea both for the modilarity I always try to keep when I build, but also for it turned out to be a good distance for the base plate.
 
 

 
Looks more messy than it is, still not dry here. Not sure you can guess what I'm up to?
 
 

 
Clips for the entire bottom piece. It worked out amazing. Resistance, without any room to wiggle. Super happy.
 
 

 

 
8mm distance and a base plate that sticks to the case just like the original piece. With 5mm wider plate than the case and 8mm of distance I will have a nice angle of the exterior angles that I will start to create in the next part of the base floor.
 

A custom hand made exterior case in acrylic for the Dark Base Pro 900 will be a challenge. A huge one, but a challenge I knew from start would be needed to complete the vision of the project.
 
TBH, I don't even have a plan, but need to make it up as I go along. After some fiddiling and thinking I made the decision to build from the ground up. If it can't stand it can't function. Took a trip to the local hardware store and picked up 2m2 of 3mm acrylic and 1m2 of 5mm acrylic.
 

 
3 sheets of acrylic in the background. It will be enough for a few days.
 
 

 
After previous struggle with keeping straight lines with the type of acrylic I can get my hands on at the local hardware store, I decided to try this little saw. Expensive, but worth a shot.
 
 

 
The case is 525mm long, so had to get 1000x750 sheets (of course). Marked out 525x240mm for top and bottom sheets and made a short prayer for my new saw.
 
 

 
Really happy with the saw. Fast to saw and it performed over expectations. Straight, fast and fairly clean cut. Not that much (only a few min per cut) to file.
 
 

 
I have a plan to keep the lower part of the case a little larger than the footprint of the rest of the case. That way I get a more visual base and I can also angle my angles slightly outwards, making the overall design cleaner. Atleast I hope so, as I don't have a blueprint...
In the picture, the case is fliped upside down.
 
 

 
A test fit of the 3 parts, bottom, top and front and some measurements, calculations I was ready to start for real. Bottoms up!
 
 

 
I will need to ensure that the PSU will be able to ventilate itself, so I have to make room for airflow. Time to mark for some Dremel action.
 
 

 
Every 10mm feels like a good space. Keeps maximum amount of holes (staying sane while drilling) and least amount of risk breaking the entire plate. It's a measurement I have used in the past for this type of work.
 
 

 
A few holes to drill...
 
 

 
I still feel the small Dremel actually performance surprisingly good. One way I do is to jug the drill up and down (as it tends to bend a little in the shaft) untill I have a round mark where I want the hole and then add preasure to make the actuall hole. Keeps it straight and accurate.
 
 

 
After 30min all the holes are drilled and I'm happy with the result. Trying to keep the protective plastic on as long as possible.
 
 

 
Used my Acrylic fix and "glued" two pieces of 4mm together. I had an idea both for the modilarity I always try to keep when I build, but also for it turned out to be a good distance for the base plate.
 
 

 
Looks more messy than it is, still not dry here. Not sure you can guess what I'm up to?
 
 

 
Clips for the entire bottom piece. It worked out amazing. Resistance, without any room to wiggle. Super happy.
 
 

 

 
8mm distance and a base plate that sticks to the case just like the original piece. With 5mm wider plate than the case and 8mm of distance I will have a nice angle of the exterior angles that I will start to create in the next part of the base floor.
 

Finally I'm back to modding after a long absence. 
Had the time to sort my filming of the shroud and edit it down to 24min (from 3,5h). 

I hope you enjoy it...more to come soon...
 
 
 

Finally I'm back to modding after a long absence. 
Had the time to sort my filming of the shroud and edit it down to 24min (from 3,5h). 

I hope you enjoy it...more to come soon...
 
 
 

I'm very grateful for the patience of my sponsors and the viewers that still follow me.
I'm finally back and I will also reveal the finished project before I move on with modding (yes).
I'm sorry for the long absence, sometimes life just gives you lemons...and sometimes a whole orchard...

Hope you like it and as always, feedback, thoughts or questions? Just fire away 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

one layer of varnish, 3 layers (mostly due to having to sand down some ridges after paint layer 1) red and 1 layer of primer
 
And thank you for the kind words
 
 

With a full EK water block cooled ASUS 1080Ti it feels almost mandatory to do a vertical GPU. One thing I learned with Project Zeuligan is that the back of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 is a little to flexible to support a GPU without some sag. Therefor I decided to do a full cover plate as a solution for a vertical GPU bracket holder. 
 
 

 
Started with marking out the tooths for the motherboard side and went to work with a hand saw.
 
 

 
First I cut a hole for the GPU. Then I did a grid of 10mm squares for one size of holes. This is also something I feel makes a difference when creating items like this. Specially when you do it by hand. Two different sizes of holes will make it look more unified AND will easier mask any small miss-placement of the holes.
 
 

 
3,2mm holes with the Dremel in the Dremel work station drill press. The way I do it and feel works best for me to counter the flexibility of the Dremel is to first position it correctly and do a very very small mark. Then firmly tap the drill a few times before finishing the holes. With constant pressure the drill tend to move to any side, due to the flexibility in the Dremel mounting and the shaft it self.
 
 

 
I added an other 10mm grid, but 5mm repositioned to get a hole every 5mm. These holes I drilled with a 5mm drill.
 
 

 
Created a side bracket with cut outs for the case rivets and threaded the holes for the thumb screws. I also added two fastening plates for the GPU end holder plate. That will be painted red.
 
 

 
Test mounting, feels sturdy and will hopefully keep the GPU perpendicular to the PSU shroud floor.
 
 

 
The backside clearly shows the tooths of the plate.
 
 

 
Painted and with the GPU holder plate painted in red. Acrylic and paint goes a long way.
 

With a full EK water block cooled ASUS 1080Ti it feels almost mandatory to do a vertical GPU. One thing I learned with Project Zeuligan is that the back of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 is a little to flexible to support a GPU without some sag. Therefor I decided to do a full cover plate as a solution for a vertical GPU bracket holder. 
 
 

 
Started with marking out the tooths for the motherboard side and went to work with a hand saw.
 
 

 
First I cut a hole for the GPU. Then I did a grid of 10mm squares for one size of holes. This is also something I feel makes a difference when creating items like this. Specially when you do it by hand. Two different sizes of holes will make it look more unified AND will easier mask any small miss-placement of the holes.
 
 

 
3,2mm holes with the Dremel in the Dremel work station drill press. The way I do it and feel works best for me to counter the flexibility of the Dremel is to first position it correctly and do a very very small mark. Then firmly tap the drill a few times before finishing the holes. With constant pressure the drill tend to move to any side, due to the flexibility in the Dremel mounting and the shaft it self.
 
 

 
I added an other 10mm grid, but 5mm repositioned to get a hole every 5mm. These holes I drilled with a 5mm drill.
 
 

 
Created a side bracket with cut outs for the case rivets and threaded the holes for the thumb screws. I also added two fastening plates for the GPU end holder plate. That will be painted red.
 
 

 
Test mounting, feels sturdy and will hopefully keep the GPU perpendicular to the PSU shroud floor.
 
 

 
The backside clearly shows the tooths of the plate.
 
 

 
Painted and with the GPU holder plate painted in red. Acrylic and paint goes a long way.
 

With a full EK water block cooled ASUS 1080Ti it feels almost mandatory to do a vertical GPU. One thing I learned with Project Zeuligan is that the back of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 is a little to flexible to support a GPU without some sag. Therefor I decided to do a full cover plate as a solution for a vertical GPU bracket holder. 
 
 

 
Started with marking out the tooths for the motherboard side and went to work with a hand saw.
 
 

 
First I cut a hole for the GPU. Then I did a grid of 10mm squares for one size of holes. This is also something I feel makes a difference when creating items like this. Specially when you do it by hand. Two different sizes of holes will make it look more unified AND will easier mask any small miss-placement of the holes.
 
 

 
3,2mm holes with the Dremel in the Dremel work station drill press. The way I do it and feel works best for me to counter the flexibility of the Dremel is to first position it correctly and do a very very small mark. Then firmly tap the drill a few times before finishing the holes. With constant pressure the drill tend to move to any side, due to the flexibility in the Dremel mounting and the shaft it self.
 
 

 
I added an other 10mm grid, but 5mm repositioned to get a hole every 5mm. These holes I drilled with a 5mm drill.
 
 

 
Created a side bracket with cut outs for the case rivets and threaded the holes for the thumb screws. I also added two fastening plates for the GPU end holder plate. That will be painted red.
 
 

 
Test mounting, feels sturdy and will hopefully keep the GPU perpendicular to the PSU shroud floor.
 
 

 
The backside clearly shows the tooths of the plate.
 
 

 
Painted and with the GPU holder plate painted in red. Acrylic and paint goes a long way.