Zeuligan

Thank you m8. Yeah, it's time consuming Was really good with the belt grinder, but it literally caught fire a few days ago. Hot metal shot straight out from the side and RIP. Spent last two days with each triangle pinched between aching fingers while grinding it with a hand file. I counted 13 bleeding cuts after hitting my knuckles with the file. Bloody mod

It will be an immense amount of work to finish the custom PSU shroud with its 118 individual angled acrylic pieces. That is also part of the charm of this build. The level of details needed. Only way to reach the end is to start. With the use of Acrifix 116 I fixed 2 triangles on the pump base plate. Each edge needs it's own individual angle to ensure the right shape of the shroud. Ensuring as versatile visuals as possible I try to alterate the size of each triangle as well. This one has a base of 45mm. Here is a shot of the angled edge of the third triangle. After sawing each triangle into it's designated shape, I grind each edge straight and proper angled to build the shape. Fixating it with Acrifix 116, wait until it sets (about 5-10min) and start on next. 8 triangles and a few hours later and the base shape starts to reveal itself. As I'm going to paint it black, I don't care about getting Acrifix 116 on the pieces. On the contrary I keep adding Acrifix on the backside of each joint to strengthen the bond. I cut a plate to sit below the radiator and took a measurement where to mount it on the base pump plate. 30mm to the edge. Lot's of hours spent already and only 19 triangles created. Very time consuming, but rewarding mod creating this PSU shroud. Started fixating triangles on my way to the front of the case. Need to ensure that the height of the front triangles stay below the lower edge of the Plexi top of the pumps. Want to create a front base plate to display the amazing sponsors of the build. 9 additional triangles and a romb later and the front logo plate is joined with the base plate for the pumps. Will need to wait longer for this to set before I move it. Love the contrast look of the hard edges of the triangles with the smooth roundness of the beautiful EK Water Block D5 Plexi top. Very close, but managed to avoid building to high in the front. 5mm to spare to the bottom of the plexi top. Somehow this makes me feel about the catamaran. Love how the different angles play with the light. This will look dope in black once finished. Doesn't look like much left, but will take atleast 10-15 more triangles to close the holes and finish part one of the shroud. Plan to build it in two pieces for easier mounting and cable management. Will need to figure out some sort of quick snap lock for that, but not until both parts of the floor is ready. That is MANY hours still Starting to look really good imho, but would love to hear what you feel about it. Please drop a comment below and I will reply as soon as I can.

Thank you so much for both your kind words and your follow. Much appreciated <3

Thank you m8. Much appreciated <3 Will try my best to keep you intrigued

Thank you very much Yeah, It might be one of those items that brakes you But I just have to try to craft it. Specially by hand. There is no such thing as free stuff... It's a combination of reach, opportunity, connections, presentability, brand awareness and plain luck.

Project Angl3d Ti - Custom PC with dual water cooling loop, vertical GTX 1080Ti sponsored by ASUS ROG, EK Water Blocks, be quiet!, Teamgroup and Enermax. A huge thank you to all of them, making this extraordinary build possible. The inspiration started when I created custom gaming PC Zeuligan and instantly fell in love with the design of the GTX 1080 Ti. When ASUS released their new VR headset with the amazing hexagon design I just knew I had to create a build inspired by the two. I also want to create a build that is the opposite of Zeuligan. More tech and modern with harder lines with an a tribute to acrylic. I'm proud to announce project Angl3d Ti. An almost scary amount of custom acrylic angles combined into what I hope will be an extraordinary custom gaming PC. The planning, as usual, started in Fusion 360 with endless of drawings and tests. With that many individual pieces there is no room for errors. This is the finished concept sketch of the PSU shroud. My main concern is how I can craft the 118 individual acrylic triangles with angled edges in multiple planes by hand. Hey, who doesn't love a challenge? I want to use the fan integrated into the GTX 1080 Ti as an inspiration for a custom front and custom top with visible fans. My concept sketch shows a cut-out from my logo. Might be a sponsor symbol or other solution once in production. But the idea is a visual front fan with a front panel cut out. Specifications: be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X FORMULA Intel i7 7700K or 8700K (jury is still out on that one) ASUS GTX 1080Ti FE 4x 8GB T-Force Delta RGB RAM DDR4 be quiet! Straight Power 11 750w 8x Enermax T.B.RGB 120mm fans Custom addressable LED strips Water cooling: EK-FC GeForce GTX FE - Nickel Water Block 2x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi 2x EK-RES X3 250 RGB 2x EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Black EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm 500mm It is almost a shame to pull that piece of art into pieces, but sometimes you need to break an egg to make an omelette. After Project Zeuligan I know how to fastest do it, so might as well get cracking. Just one last look at that beautiful case. Up on the operating table. Time to take this baby apart. This is how the inside of the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 looks like without the tempered glass side. Everything is modular and get be taken apart with just screws. No need for a Dremel at this point. Love this case. The beautiful brushed aluminium panels detached. Never stops amazes me how beautiful a naked computer case can look. Maybe it's just me that is weird. What do you feel about naked chassis? Even with the generous space of the huge be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 it will be a challenge to fit all these amazing products. It has always bean a dream of mine to get EK Water Blocks as a sponsor. Still feels unreal that it's not longer a dream. Thank you Just as with Project Zeuligan I intend to use the drive cage ladder as a base for fastening an inside wall. But this time I will use it to hold the dual EK-RES X3 250 RGB reservoirs. 220x450mm. Wider and I will overlap the motherboard. Leaving some room at the top and bottom for cable routing. Included one of the black beautiful EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) radiator to ensure that I have enough room between reservoirs and radiator. The only thing that is and looks better than an EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump) is two These are the un-sleeved version as I will of course sleeve my own in relation to the color theme. Sleeving will be done with MDPC-X. One last measurement to check the position of the pumps. I will need to create my own pump brackets so I can integrate them into the PSU shroud / floor. Naked aluminum is sexy This is a 4mm thick 60mm wide aluminum beam. It will be the base of the bracket. Measuring the middle of the 20mm side aluminum beam that will be part of the pump brackets. Just love having a digital caliper. It still amazes me how much fun stuff I can create with my Dremel mounted to the drill press. It is surprisingly accurate if used with patiences. The week spot is as always the shaft of the Dremel that moves. Cut the remaining beams and an additional piece of acrylic as top cover. I need the extra height, but also need the top layer to be acrylic as I will combine it with the 118 individual pieces. This is my vision for the bracket. Using the bottom fastening holes for the fans to keep it in place. Ok, will need to put this together. Something almost sexy about black countersunk hex bolts in naked aluminum. Very satisfied with this solution. 4 holes, 4 countersunk holes, 4 bolts and 1 sturdy dual pump bracket. Positioning the dual EKWB D5 Plexi top pumps to ensure maximum space between them, but with optimum placement on the bracket. The original measurement above was 190mm from the front panel below the radiator to the last bracket hole. I then worked backwards from there. Back to the Dremel press after marking out the 8 holes for the pumps. Not bad at all. Almost looks like the chassi for a small toy car. Added two 5mm acrylic pieces below the bracket to raise the entire height another 5mm. Will be need to match where the PSU shroud / floor needs to be at it's lowest point. One last measurement and time to start, what most likely will be an endless amount of time spent in cutting, grinding and fixating the acrylic triangles. Hence the name of the build - Angl3d Ti. First cut is the deepest... After some painfully slow and inaccurate attempts to file or sand the triangles sides into proper angles I found a solution that will kick ass. I belt grinder flipped up side down. Only thing to worry about now is my fingertips. Suddenly I feel that this almost impossible endever is doable. The speed with the belt grinder was so much higher. Accuracy is still a problem and will be, but I recon I will get a better and better feel for it the more I create. Knife sharp and straight edges. I'm saved... First time pieces fitted to the pump base plate. Both at an angle to each other and the base plate. It has been a long but very productive day. So amazingly fun to be starting a new project again. This time it feels extra special as I have new friends supporting me. I hope you like what you have seen so far. Please follow the build if you want to see more and I just love to hear your thoughts and get feedback.

Yeah, plenty of solutions for that And the case (I just got my 2nd (cliffhanger hehehe)) is so beautiful and ooze of quality that you almost don't want to mod it. Can whole heartedly recommend that case to anyone (did buy the first one my self). It is just awesome in modularity, quality and space.

Thx m8, always nice when someone appreciate what you do What do you mean by rolls? Like custom stands? The 4 bottom original stands are clicked into the bottom (so they are detachable) and then fastened by a screw (if I remember correctly) Either way they are detachable so can be replaced with what ever you want. If that wasn't what you ment, just explain what you mean and I will do my best to help you

Thank you and yeah. Helps to actually be home for more then one day Glad I'm in sync with work and life again and can start to plan next project Thx m8

Strange feeling, but the build is actually done. Scary, very scary, but done. So many my first; First modding project First water cooling project First photo project First time sleeving First time working with acrylic or vinyl and much more. I spent most of the morning frenetically turning nobs on my new studio flash and cursing the to narrow backdrop. Ended up with some images that actually worked. Point of no return. Hope you like the end result and as always, feel free to comment or ask questions if there is anything you want to know more about. Thank you everyone that supported me me in this thread with engagement, help and comments and of course, a huge thank you to be quiet! that decided to sponsor this project half way in.

Thx for posting m8. As I put my radiator actually outside the inner case frame (see earlier post) between the case frame and the aluminum outer case this was (and is) a big concern for me to. Will make the case to warm. I actually tried with acrylic fins on the inside of the front door to angle the air more to the fans, but couldn't measure any difference in volume of air going into the case. With my particular design with my 2nd floor I actually split the bottom 3rd fan between the case and the floor combined with a bottom fan in push I felt it would create enough turbulence. Also with a fully water cooled build I was hoping for the entire case to stay cold enough (still 9*140mm fans and 880ml or Reservoir ) and so far I haven't seen any problems. None-delided 7.7k at Mhz and 77C on absolute 100% max stress on 4 cores. 28C in idle One thing you can try if you are worried is to blow some smoke into each fan and see how the pattern of the smoke behaves. One easy visual way to check air flow pattern. I know I read somewhere on the forum about someone not happy with the airflow and drilled holes in the top aluminum case, but I didnt' want to do that due to the white leather and over all look and feel. To the rest of you. Sorry for the lack of build updates. I quit my job 2 months ago and joined a small tech-startup. Haven't left work since :D. The build is finished, but I haven't had time to learn how to take photographs yet (bought some studio flashes but lot of stuff to learn before I can use them). Did one small photo session a few weeks ago (when home shortly to repack my suite case) so will leave a teaser picture and hopefully I can update the log with final pictures this coming weekend. /Love Zeuligan

Thank you What do you like the most the GPU brace or something else?

That is most kind of you to say Acrylic is a very, sexy material. I like it, but it's a challenge to cut straight with hand tools and not sure I like cutting long straight lines with my Moto-saw. I will fix some tool for next mod for this purpose as I tend to work a lot more with Acrylic in future mods. Very glad you say you like that part.

As I did a vertical GPU bracket in a previous mod I ended up with more than a little sag on my GPU. The structural integrity of the perforated case wall isn't enough to keep the GPU up. As I want to keep the build as clean as possible a big GPU brace was out of the question and fishline solutions unthinkable. This was also something that I had in mind already when creating my custom floor. The placement of the pump top and reservoir. I cut a small piece from 5mm acrylic and sanded edges down. Rounded corners and drilled a hole just shy of 13mm to keep a tight fit to my 13/10 Hard tube. To ensure that physics keeps the brace in place I also warmed the part after the hole and bent it about 10°. After some sanding it was possible to squeeze it on the hard tube and it fit's tight and almost to good. I did one version with a beveled edge to keep a o-ring beneath the brace, but that didn't turn out either good or good lucking. Snug was the way to go. The shape and size of the hard tube was my original idea, but after a final test fit I came to the conclusion it will look better if it's shorter, so the finished loop design, this bend is about 50% of the height. This is how the GPU brace is positioned and the weight of the GPU will squeeze the brace in place due to the bend I did.

Haven't planned on it, but not a bad idea

After creating the cable comb plates attached in the mother board rubber grommets I had to sort the rest of the backside cable management. I tried a few versions av acrylic combs, but realized that they would become to thick or crack to easy. This is what I need to stort I'm not sure if I finally reached a point where I had taken on to much. So many cables. Oh well, might as well get started. One cable at a time. After a few different tries I ended up with an aluminum bracket idea. Just small stripes of aluminum sheets bent into the right size and shape. I hand bent a first version and measured the size needed for my cables. 24+8+6+7. The last 6 is 4 fans, 2 front panel cables and the white PWM cable for the cable hub. Cut 3 equal aluminum stripes and bent them with a plier into shape. Filed all edges and corners soft to reduce the risk of messing with the cables. Don't want to put aluminum into a cable. Carbon fiber vinyl was a challenge to wrap such a small and fairly soft item, but after some tries I found a good methods. 1 down 2 to go. Three equal sized and wrapped cable management clips. This could work, but would these small clips actually hold all those cables. Had I measured correctly? Not bad, not bad at all. Folded the two GPU cables under the 24pin cables to keep an intact look of the cables. I like the soft curve the GPU cables give. Need to fix the fans for the top radiator, the 4th fan mounted in the backside and the front fans. Seven awesome be quiet! Silent Wings 3 to sleeve. They come sleeved, but I want MDPC-X Carbon-BTI sleeve on all fans and extras (pump, radiator leds etc). Here is actually something I noticed. It's better to get un-sleeved fans for re-sleeving. Why? They 4 cables are still glued together. That makes it super fast to sleeve as you don't have to mark each individual fan cable. Just unplug the pins, add sleeve, put it back in the connector. The carbon fiber sleeve really works with the look of the fan blades. I managed to sleeve all 7 fans in less than 30min. Mostly due to the fact mentioned above about the fan cables. Only need to fasten them in the case and route the cables to finish the backside cable management. If the sleeves are easy, this feels daunting. So many cables Oh well, one at a time and this should be doable. To ensure that I put the right cable in the right place I measured all the cables. One fast beep and good to go. Will ber very exciting to see the finished result. Decided to hide the over clocking switch for the be quiet! Dark Power Pro 11 as a lid for my backside cables. Unfortunately I broke the acrylic angle when adding the last cables, so need to fix that. Backside done. The vertical white lines is mirroring the hard lines in the case, that I will show in next update.

Thank you so much. Your comment warms my heart

Thank you so much. I will try to take as many photos as possible once I'm done. I added fluid for a leak test yesterday (14h in to my 24 leak test) and so far so good.

I have reached a mile stone and that is real assembly. I thought I would drop a few pictures on the status so far. Most of the parts should now be finished and it's about putting everything together. Left to do is all the hard tube bending and component installation, but that is fast. I would love to hear what you think so far. Please drop a comment, question or just a hi. Would love to answer any questions you have.

I decided to ditch my sleeved extension and go for a more slick cable management solution with a custom cable comb in carbon fiber. To route cables first and cut the end once done. More sleeve and cable needed, but easier to route the cables. This is what needs to be sorted. I thought of several different ways to solve this, but decided to use the holes in the motherboard tray and also make the cables the heros. Printed a template for 24 pin and the outlines to match the rubber grommet outline for the motherboard tray. Drilled 24 holes with my Dremel Workstation and a 3.2mm drill. Fairly good precision with that station. Almost a little surprised. The variable speed helped to prevent the 5 mm acrylic to crack. Base shape done with 24 good holes. After sleeving the cables in MDPC-X I need 4mm holes, so used my Bosch and drilled with a 4mm drill in all the previously made holes. Bugs me I can't find a drill for my Dremel that is 4mm. Will need to stort that for next project. Final test of the fit and size of the holes. Very happy, this will be awesome. Perfect size and glad it didn't crack after all those holes. Cut away the inner part of the rubber grommet and sanded down the edges to fit the shape. This could be really good. Carbon fiber vinyl on this piece as well. Will blend with the build and make the sleeved MDPC-X cables pop. Glued the finished carbon fiber cable comb onto the rubber grommet. Spilled a little, but was easy to remove with some pure alcohol. After adding a second cable comb with 14 holes (8+6) for the GPU and adding a 14 slot black Alphacool aluminum cable comb to keep the dual GPU cables together and a 24 slot comb this part is done.

I got a really good deal on the ASUS card when I bought it. Saved almost 200$ from the EVGA (that was my first choice for the reason you write) so I thought it was worth the risk of the warranty. Thx, again, have had so much good comments from you since start. Much appreciated.

As it's a Fe or reference card, yes they are the same, but it is an ASUS reference card and I like ASUS, so that's why I keep mentioning it Here's the box Thx for your feedback and glad you like the work, makes me happy! LOL, Actually, they are precut from EKWB, but clean is good Thank you so much! It is my first mod, so would do some parts so much different, but practice makes perfect, so I hope next build is even better Very happy you like it. Thx /bow

Nothing as scary as tearing a 800$ ASUS GTX1080Ti GPU apart and voiding warranty, but that is also part of the thrill. I love the look of EKWBs Acrylic and Acetal water block. With the GPU mounted vertically there is no need to spend time on a custom backplate, so went with the black backplate from EKWB. Such a beautiful card, even if the cooling capability and noice levels can be discussed. Small screws requires small tools. Few screws to remove the backplate, but don't let that fool you. The work starts once the backplate is removed. Two small bowls to keep the screws sorted while dissembling. There it is. The inside backside of the amazing ASUS Fe GTX1080Ti. 20! screws to be removed to release the big and heavy frontside. I went counter clockwise and did the 9 GPU screws last. Also counter clockwise. No particular reason, I just tend to go counter clockwise when I remove stuff and go clock wise when I put things together. That way I can more easily keep track of all the progress. This is how it looks, once all the 20 screws are removed and both halvs of the card is visible. Simple and clear instructions included by EKWB. Just follow it and do one thing at a time and it's really uncomplicated. Only thing I felt was a little unclear was the reference to the LED. But after checking EKWBs website again, it states that LED is not included but is optional. If you want the plate to light, order that LED or you will need to break your card apart again, once you want to add it. I left mine without, due to that reason. Thermal pads added according to the instructions. Just a scissor and some measuring needed. Anyone can do it. Much better. THAT is how a real ASUS GTX1080Ti should look like. With a beautiful water black keeping the awesomeness cooled. Used Grizzly Kryonaut as new paste to keep it cool. Backplate mounted and card is done and EKWB logo unpeeled Will look amazing mounted in my custom vertical GPU bracket. Block photographed by my GF with a real camera. I just love the black and transparent combination. ASUS and EKWB awesomeness. Like 1 + 1 = 3.

I dislike ugly cables as much as I love sleeved cables. The "mess" that the front IO brings to a mod like this is a challenge. Not a challenge I want unanswered. The choice is simple, either sleeve them and deal with the routing problem of that many cables. Short cables to increase the problem or solve it by hiding them all together. I decided to kill two birds with one stone and hide them together with some of the last unworked parts of the backside. Masked and measured on a 3mm acrylic to make an L-shaped base. More than one part included in my master plan to hide all the cables. Masked and cut them with my Dremel Moto Saw that I'm beginning to love more and more. Acrylic cement is the right way to go to join acrylic. Just need to be careful not to spill on the surfaces of the pieces as that will ruin them. My mini-clamps are awesome for this kind of work. Put the L-shape under pressure while waiting for the Acrylic cement to set. All 4 base pieces done. Two L-shapes, one top cover and one small surprise for the backside of the case. Really happy with both my plan and the result. Snug, tight and straight. Just as we like it. It will work as a cable canal and hide the IO front cables. Next step is to make the pieces sexy... I love that carbon fiber look. I also decided, before wrapping to create the two L-pieces with a twist. To make it a little harder. I will show you what I had in mind in next few steps. Top cover with a small cut out for a rivet I don't want to move and my small surprise piece for the backside. Drilled some holes for mounting and created two fastening clips to use inside the HDD-ladder. I managed to align the 2 different pieces exactly in pattern with the previously created carbon fiber backplate. This creates one fluid pattern for the entire backside. Took some measuring, but extremely happy that I took that extra time. Looks amazing and is one of those details I will know I did. It also creates a solution for hidden cable management that I'm very happy with. Voila! The backside cable management with a hidden cable canal as well as one fluid carbon fiber backside. And the surprise? There is a small indentation in the backside of the case. Decided to give it a white carbon fiber accent. What you think, how did I manage with this mod?

It is hard for me to write a good enough answer to give you the appraisal you deserve after your amazing comment. I'm more than grateful, I'm excited and happy beyond words. I'm inspired to work even harder on my next project. As this is my first ever mod, there is so much things I have learned on the journey that make me want do do things differently. That is also for me one of the big passions discovered in modding. The never ending learning curve and new cool and fun people that have supported and thought me so much stuff already. Shout me a message with your build log and I will follow it with great interest. Thx m8, you rock!