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Lord_Elros1138

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About Lord_Elros1138

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  1. Lord_Elros1138

    Google Chrome and Account Questions

    Thank you for the info that you were able to provide.
  2. I plan to wipe my computer clean and start fresh. After I wipe my computer and reinstall my Microsoft Windows 10 Operating System, I plan to create a new Google account. I had three Google email accounts that I used for personal, shopping, and business purposes. I downloaded, read, and followed the instructions from Google for deleting these accounts. As far as I could tell, after I followed the directions, I tried logging in with the accounts to see if they were deleted and I got pages that displayed messages that the accounts were deleted and that I had the option to restore them. However, I noticed that the accounts were still listed on my Google Chrome browser with options to sign-in or remove them, and I believe the sync options were automatically turned off. I am not familiar with the Google account deletion process and I want to make sure that my accounts were properly deleted. My questions are as followed: Did I do the account deletion process correctly? When I download and install Chrome, Drive, and Music Manager after wiping the computer and reinstalling Windows 10, would I be correct in assuming that the settings for Chrome, Drive, and Music Manager would remain on their factory default settings both before and after I create my new Google account? When I create my new Google account after I wipe my computer, I want to start completely fresh with the account settings and the settings for Chrome, Drive, and Music Manager all on their factory default settings. I intend to re-enter my same profile information including name and phone number when I create the new Google account. When I create the new account under my name and phone number, will any of the settings for Chrome, Drive, or Music Manager from my old accounts, regardless if they were deleted or not be transferred to my new account automatically? I prefer to have my old accounts closed. If for some reason I did not close one of my old accounts, and I created a new Google account with the same information like the name and phone number, would the settings from the old account like Chrome, Drive, and Music Manager transfer to the new account or would the settings from the two accounts be separate? If for some reason I delete my new account in the future and remove it from the account list in Chrome, will Chrome automatically return to its factory default settings or will any changes that I made in its settings while using the account remain after the account is deleted? This question also applies to Google Drive and Music Manager. If I add a second Google account to the Chrome list or replace the first account with a new one in the future, will the changes in settings that I created with the first account remain in Chrome when I either switch between accounts or move over to the second account or will Chrome change its settings between accounts or return to factory default settings? This question also applies to Google Drive and Music Manager. Thanks.
  3. Thanks guys for all your responses and input.
  4. Thanks for the replies. And yes, I am a little OCD about the health of my computer setup and its associated equipment especially if I paid thousands of dollars for it. Before I close my discussion of this topic, I would like to confirm that I understand your responses correctly. With the exception of ware from the reading and writing processes on the Solid State Drive (SSD) and Hard Drive Discs (HDDs) and for some reason plugging and unplugging plugs dozens of times over, am I correct in understanding that the repeated re-installations of Windows 10 will not add ware or damage to the internal and external computer components and their cables, cords, and power cords, the copying of backup files from the external hard drive to the internal SSD and HDDs should not have any problems after the proper re-installation of Windows 10, and that I should be safe if I wish to re-use cables from my current desktop PC build in my next desktop PC build?
  5. These questions may sound a little unusual, but they are questions that I wish to ask. I did some testing and experimenting with different settings and configurations of Windows 10 on my current computer to look at Windows 10 configurations that best suited my needs. When the configuration results were either not satisfactory or not working, I reinstalled Windows 10 back to the default factory setup and tried again to find a configuration that met my needs. Whenever I rebuild or replace my computers, I generally sell the older parts online through eBay. I do my best to make sure that the hardware components are in working order before I sell them. I understand that both the re-installation of Windows 10 and the addition of other software and programs can add wear to both my internal solid state drive (where Windows is installed) and internal hard drive discs. My questions are: Can the repeated re-installation of Windows 10 add ware or damage to other internal components such as the motherboard, optical disc drive, USB 3.0 expansion cards, internal WiFi antenna, power supply, graphics card, sound card, etc.? (Note: I do not overclock or mess with the BIOS). Can the repeated re-installation of Windows 10 add ware or damage to external components such as the keyboard, mouse, game pad, external hard drive, display monitor, webcam, printer, microphone, headphones, headsets, speakers, USB 3.0 flash drives, Micro SD cards, MP3 players, smartphones, etc.? I am aware that over time frequent connections and disconnections of cables can add ware to plugs, jacks, and ports. Can the repeated re-installation of Windows 10 add ware or damage to my computer’s internal cables or external cables such as the power cables, SATA cables, USB cables, external hard drive cables, power supply cables, and keyboard, webcam, mouse, game pad, speaker, headphone, microphone, and headset cables, etc. or would the cables be safe to reuse on a new or replacement desktop computer build? After reinstalling Windows 10 with the proper or desired settings and all Windows updates are applied, is there any chance that any of my backup files such as music, photos, videos, documents, etc. would be corrupted after copying them from my external hard drive to my computer’s internal hard drive discs or solid state drive? Thank you.
  6. I am just curious from a business stand point. I apologize that I am not familiar with all of the codenames for Intel's CPUs. My understanding is that the current generation of Intel CPUs has faced supply shortages in its lower category of CPUs. Intel has focused its efforts on the production of higher end CPUs like those for gaming PCs and servers. I would assume that because of the supply problem, Intel may decide to delay the release of its next generation CPUs. What are the chances that Intel may delay the release of its successor CPUs and if it does delay their release, how long would that delay likely last?
  7. I plan to replace my PC after I finish graduate school either this spring or early summer dependent on the recommended components that are suggested. I am both a gamer and drone pilot and my next PC will be both for gaming and drone video editing so the usage will likely be 50% gaming and 50% video editing. For gaming, I like to play a variety of games. I like playing older titles like Transformers, Mass Effect and Crysis Trilogies, and even games from the 1980s and 1990s like the Kings Quest series and Loom from sites like GOG and Steam. I would also like the PC to play modern games like MMO and FPS in both current and future releases for the next few years. For video editing, I plan to edit drone videos by mainly rearranging and combining parts of videos for clients and adding basic titles, graphics, and music. I am not planning any Hollywood studio level video editing, but my drone is capable of shooting video in 4K so I would like my PC to handle 4K video editing. My questions are as followed: CPU: I have heard Intel is better for gaming while AMD is better for video editing. Since my gaming and video editing will likely be split in half, am I better off with Intel or AMD? If AMD is recommended, should I wait until they release their new Ryzen CPU this summer? GPU: I am willing to go with an Nvidia RTX 2080/2080 Ti if that will better suite my needs. I understand that both Nvidia RXT and Radeon VII are somewhat struggling with 4K gaming resolution so my intention is to game at either 1080p or 1440p (which ever resolution it is that falls between 1080p and 4K) but if there is a card capable of gaming well at 4K, I will look into that as well. I would like the GPU to also be able to handle running two monitors if I decide to do a dual monitor setup. Would I be better off with Nvidia or Radeon? Monitor: My intention is to get a 4K monitor or possibly two of them. You can correct me if I am wrong, but I assume they are capable of displaying lower resolutions like 1080p and 1440p? Could you please recommend a reliable 4K Nvidia G-Sync monitor and a reliable 4K Freesync monitor that works with both Radeon and Nvidia? I would also like the monitor(s) to have HDR capability and work well with both games and video editing. PCIE 4.0: I am hearing rumors that PCIE 4.0 may be released later this year. My desire after 18 months or two years after selecting or building the PC is to upgrade the GPU in order to extend the life of the PC. If the motherboard I get uses PCIE 3.0 and the next graphics card uses the PCIE 4.0 standard, would I run into a bottleneck issue or would it be several years before Nvidia and AMD adopt a PCIE 4.0 connector to their GPU cards? If I went for the top end intel i7 or i9 CPU along with an RTX 2080 Ti, would I run into a bottleneck issue if I upgraded to the 2080 Ti's successor (like RTX 3080 Ti?) in 18 months to two years? This question also applies to AMD and Radeon's equivalent CPU and GPUs. Thanks in advance.
  8. Lord_Elros1138

    Computer Speaker and Sound Card Question

    This will be a kind of long response so I apologize. The only component which I frequently turn on and off, along with my computer, is my external hard drive. However, I do not know if this makes a difference in the static issue. First, I would like to clear up a misunderstanding on the EQ. I only use the default EQ settings that come with the sound card's software. I always have the EQ enabled. It is set to flat when I am either watching videos or not listening to music. When I listen to music I only use the included EQ presets such as rock, classical, and pop. Again the only adjustments that I made to the sound card software were setting the speakers to 2.1, enabling Dolby Digital Live under Cinematic, enabling the Equalizer and using its default presets, and setting the software volume to 100%. The speakers are connected to the sound card using a headphone jack/RCA cable (headphone jack to card and RCA to subwoofer). Again the components that I am concerned with are as followed: Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster ZX Speakers: Logitech Z523 Second, am I correct to understand that the software audio adjustments that I made to my card, including setting the software volume to 100% are of no harm to either the sound card or the speakers? Again I only adjust the volume and bass knobs on my speakers to achieve a desirable sound level and not for full blast. Third, am I correct to understand that the occasional clicks that I hear are caused by electrical interference by electronic components both inside and outside of my computer case and that there may be no way to fully eliminate that issue? Here are lists of both my internal and external computer components in case it can provide you a better idea of whether or not I am dealing with electrical interference. In terms of external components, my computer desk is set up as followed: 1. Desktop PC case is under my table to my left 2. The PC case has a USB 3.0 WiFi antenna connected to the top front USB 3.0 port using the 802.11ac signal standard 3. My monitor is located right in front of me connected to my GPU using an HDMI cable 4. My computer speakers are located on each side of my monitor with the subwoofer located under the table to my right 5. My gaming keyboard, mouse, and gamepad are located in front of me and are all connected to an external 4-Port USB 3.0 hub which is sitting on the floor behind my computer 6. My webcam, which has a built-in mic, is sitting on top of my monitor 7. The wired remote for my sound card is sitting to both the left and front of my monitor 8. My external hard drive is sitting on my desk to my right next to the right speaker 9. My laser jet printer is also on my desk to my right and is sitting to the right of my external hard drive 10. My uninterruptable power supply is located under my table to my right and is located next to my subwoofer on the right and has all of my computer power cords plugged into it 11. I also have a drone battery charger which is located near the wall opposite of my computer Here are the internal components for my computer. Please note that I use an ASUS USB-AC68 WiFi antenna, I replaced the Asus Blu Ray drive with an internal LG Blu Ray Drive, and I have a front mounted Star Tech USB 3.0 expansion card. CPU Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor $215.00Buy CPU Cooler CRYORIG - H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler $46.89Buy Motherboard Gigabyte - GA-Z270P-D3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $108.99Buy Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $224.88Buy Storage Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $299.99Buy Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99Buy Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99Buy Video Card Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card Case Corsair - 600T Silver ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply SeaSonic - EVO Edition 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $199.95Buy Optical Drive Asus - BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer $119.88Buy Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $89.89Buy Case Fan Aerocool - Silent Master 200B 76.0 CFM 200mm Fan $13.39Buy Aerocool - Silent Master 200B 76.0 CFM 200mm Fan $13.39Buy Aerocool - Shark 82.6 CFM 120mm Fan $9.39Buy
  9. Lord_Elros1138

    Computer Speaker and Sound Card Question

    Ok. What are the chances that this would have damaged my sound card or speakers?
  10. Lord_Elros1138

    Computer Speaker and Sound Card Question

    Thanks for the advice. I am currently carrying out your suggested techniques to see if they work. As was stated in my topic, even though I do not listen to audio at full blast and my speaker volume knob is relatively low, is there any chance that setting the sound card volume to 100% has damaged either my sound card or speakers?
  11. Lord_Elros1138

    Computer Speaker and Sound Card Question

    I have audio related questions which I assume would be simple for any audio enthusiasts and experts to answer since I am not fully knowledgeable on audio specifications and levels. I built a gaming PC which I also use for listening to music. I have been ripping my audio CDs to Apple Lossless Audio Compression (ALAC) and listening to those files on iTunes. My computer uses a Creative Sound Blaster ZX internal sound card which has its protective shield attached. My speakers are Logitech Z523 2.1 computer speakers. I have noticed single click or static type sounds occasionally popping up while listening to music and possibly while watching online videos. When I have no audio playing, none of the sounds that I just described occur. The only changes that I made to the sound card's software is setting the speakers to 2.1, the Cinematic setting to Dolby Digital Live, enabling the EQ with the setting to Flat while either watching videos or not listening to music, and adjusting the software volume level from 80% to 100%. All other sound card software settings are at default. My sound card is connected to my speakers using an audio cable with a small headphone plug which is plugged into the sound card on one end and two RCA plugs that connect into the subwoofer on the other end. I usually keep my speaker volume knob between 25% and 33%. I am aware that internal computer components can cause interference with internal sound cards and even if the cards are shielded, they may never fully block the interference. However, my only guess right now is that the problem may be due to setting the sound card volume to 100% and I have set the volume back to its default level of 80%. I will give it time to see if that fixes the problem. Would my problem be most likely due to setting the card volume to 100%? Also, even though I do not listen to audio at full blast and my speaker volume knob is relatively low, is there any chance that setting the sound card volume to 100% has damaged either my sound card or speakers? Lastly, I intend at some point to install a surround sound system such as a Sonos or Bose in my room and hook up my PC to it via optical cable. Would I pick up less interference with optical as opposed to RCA and headphone jack type cables?Thanks.
  12. Lord_Elros1138

    Need WiFi Antenna Replacement Suggestions

    Thanks for that information. I suspect that I went overkill on my WiFi antenna. If I end up having to replace it, what alternative Antennas would you recommend that would be capable of handling the gaming and streaming demands that I just listed?
  13. Lord_Elros1138

    Need WiFi Antenna Replacement Suggestions

    Hey guys,I am new here. I am concerned that there may be a hardware problem with my Asus PCE-AC88 WiFi card. I had to disconnect the antenna cables when I needed to replace one of my case fans and heard a popping sound that possibly came from the card. I inspected the WiFi card's ports and antennas and so far everything seems functional. However, if the antenna acts up, I will replace it. My network has a 300 Mbps cable modem, and an AC5300 Nighthawk X8 Tri-Band WiFi Router from Netgear (which has four antennas). My WiFi speed right, now according to WirelessMon's software is between 938 and 987 Mbits. This speed is likely due to the fact that the router is on the second floor of my house while my computer is located in the basement. Asus claims my WiFi card is rated up to 2100 Mbps. I only recently learned that 802.11ac's theoretical max signal strength is around 1300 Mbps. Did I fall for a marketing scheme when I bought this antenna? If so, is the maximum reasonable Mbps that I should look for on an 802.11ac antenna 1300 Mbps? I would appreciate suggestions on PCI-E based 802.11ac WiFi antennas that are capable of handling online gaming scenarios equivalent to Star Wars the Old Republic, World of Warcraft, Call of Duty, and Battlefield, streaming movies in high definition and possibly 4K, and streaming music. Thanks in advance.
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