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D1398342003

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Everything posted by D1398342003

  1. My probable storage expansion (when money allows for it) would be two SSDs as a mirror for thumbnails and the like with three 8 or 16 tb nas drives with one as parity for the bulk stuff. I don't have that much on the NAS at the moment, and a three drive array with an SSD for non-video files would be entirely acceptable for my use case. Thanks for the advice guys, it's been a lot of help.
  2. I didn't know that you can't add drives to a vdev after making it. That's some need to know info there. Does that mean that a metadata drive has to exist before the data vdev is made? I'll look into Unraid, see what's up with it.
  3. Hi, I'm fairly new to TrueNAS. I know enough to get myself in trouble, that is. My current system isn't great on data redundancy with only one drive, but I'm going to get more drives as time goes on and expand things. Yes, I know three is one and one is none. Cash is tight and it's made of stuff I already have, and none of the data is mission critical or unique. I rescued a 240gig SSD from an old system, and I was thinking of trying it out as a Metadata drive. Given that I only have the one SSD, TrueNAS cautions against using it as a Metadata drive. If I do make a Metadata vdev, does TrueNAS remove all metadata records from the non-metadata vdev? In essence making that metadata vdev the only metadata record on the NAS? Is there some option to preserve the original vdev's metadata and use that in case of a failure? I understand if there isn't, I just need some clarity on the subject. The various videos and articles I saw were unclear on some of the specifics.
  4. I've seen a few random ideas around the net on home servers and routers, and I thought I'd try my hand at making one. I have a NAS server with an old AMD FX-6300 and a couple 3-4TB drives. The board it's on, a Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3, only has one gigabit ethernet port. I'd like to use it as a file server and a router, with a bit of traffic filtering for ads and malicious sites. It's currently running Linux Mint, which is essentially a reskin of Ubuntu, and I'm fairly handy with it. My plan is to get an Intel EXPI9301CTBLK, which is a $30 single port gigabit NIC, and plug that into my existing netgear gigabit switch for wired connectivity. For wireless, I'm thinking of one of the high end AC Wifi cards, like the TP-Link Archer T9E ($95), ASUS PCE AC68 ($120), or ASUS PCE AC88 ($150). The ASUS cards have antenna extensions in the box, which would allow me to position them more easily. Should I pick a different ethernet card? Is there a better Wifi card that I haven't considered or seen? Any advice on software?
  5. I had a lot of fun, and got to talk to quite a few people, which was good. Talking to Steve from GN in person wouldn't have been possible for me without this event. It was super fun seeing his reaction to the Gucci sandals. The triple head VR rig had the cool internals pointed towards the line for VR, which discouraged looking at the system. I felt like I was budging in line when I went to take a look at it. Games like the Minesweeper challenge and blindfold cable management had far too few open spots to play. Blindfold cables was fully booked halfway through the show, maybe only let people book an hour in advance? I kinda felt bad about Linus's car, until he said (on a later livestream) that it was basically worthless and he needed to replace it. Had this been the Going Away Paint Party for the lambo I'd have felt much better about 'ruining' the car.
  6. I wouldn't mind being able to play my FLAC music, but I don't need something really high end. Just to be clear, my main priorities are: 8-10 hours actual listening time. Button based controls 3.5mm headphone jack Folder style navigation option Having high res audio would be a nice feature, but I don't require it.
  7. It does have a touch based wheel on it, how important to the overall function is that? I usually keep my player in my jeans pocket and hit the buttons through the material. How does the 12 hour battery last with headphones rather than earbuds? I prefer to have the player last through an 8 hour day of work if possible.
  8. Well, I just washed my old Walkman NWZ-S764. It would be more accurate to say that I had it in my pants pocket while it went through the wash. It's obviously now non-functional. Annoyingly enough I've done it once before, to another of the same type of Walkman. So now it's time to buy a new one, and I'm not really liking my options. Most of the new models have touchscreens, which are about 95% incompatible with smooth operation through a layer of denim. The A20 and E395 both have buttons, which I prefer. I like the A20's control diamond, and that the 'Back' and 'Option' buttons are further away from it. I'd be able to accept the E395 if needed though. I'd be paying 3x the cost for slightly better controls, better sound file compatibility, and SD expandability. My main question is if they have song navigation by folder. My old Walkman had sorting by things like Artist, Genre, Album, ect. It's a feature that was not very publicized, but existed. Is this feature still present on either of these players? Secondly, I've heard some complaints that the E395 has bad battery life and slow something, UI or song navigation maybe? I'm not sure if these complaints are valid.
  9. On the specific fittings I have, the tube will insert about a centimeter (3/8") into the fitting after tightening. If you look down into the fitting with the tightening part removed there should be one to three O-rings, the tube should seat past all of them on a metal shoulder.
  10. Oh I know, but I've got no instability from Win7, so no problems there, and I just ran windows update today, after getting that unofficial open-source patch that prevents Microsoft from seeing the correct CPU.
  11. I've been using Win7 on Ryzen for the last 3 months, and Asus offers drivers for Win7. I just haven't gotten the M.2 device to work. Other people have, and I can't seem to manage to replicate their fix.
  12. I'm running Windows 7 on an R7 1700 / Asus Crosshair Hero VI with the latest bios and drivers. My PCIE M.2 SSD shows up in the bios but Win7 doesn't see it. Device Manager reports no unidentified devices. I'm not sure if I'm missing a driver or have the M.2 SSD configured incorrectly. Anyone have advice for how I can troubleshoot this?
  13. Sadly it's only got space for a 240 in the top, along with front panel vents I dislike.
  14. I'm looking for a tempered glass midtower for $100-$175 CAD. I prefer a minimalist look, like on the Define C, along with space for two 360mm radiators and at least one hard drive mount. I prefer not to have a PSU shroud, but that can alaways be removed if I need to. I've found a few options, but I'd like to hear your opinions on them and recommendations for other cases I may not have considered. Phanteks Enthoo Pro M - It appears to lose HDD mounts when using a 360 rad in the front, correct me if I'm wrong though. I'm not a huge fan of the front grill either, and I've heard the side vents are not filtered. be quiet Base 600 - It appears to lose all HDD mounts when a radiator is installed in the front. The front panel isn't totally minimalist, but I can get it in all black, which would minimize that. Thermaltake Suppressor F31 - I can't find much on this case from what I'd consider reliable sources apart from HardOCP's review, which is pretty positive. The HDD mounts can be attached to the back of the MB tray, so that's not an issue. The front panel is very similar to the Define C, you'd almost think it was a copy.
  15. I have one of the older Kinesis Advantage keyboards in black, the black models don't t have a lame finish. It took me about six to eight weeks to get 100% used to typing on it. My main two issues were WASD and the thumb buttons. I switched to ESDF and Space and Enter with Backspace and Delete cleared up all gaming issues. Oh, if you're using this for gaming, don't use it at an angle, you'll put weird strain on your pinky fingers, which can be quite painful. Keep it straight. It's really good if you've got stubs where most people have fingers. To reach P and Q with my pinky fingers I have to straighten my whole hand. The same stretch reaches the 1 and 0 on the Advantage. Switching to keypad is pretty annoying, especially if you forget that you've done it and start trying to type normally. I find that I usually watch the keypad when I type on it, and it's hard to watch the recessed keywells. Kinesis sells their own branded keypads for 40 bucks though.
  16. ... They are available on Amazon.ca. I'm too used to not having that site work. Well, I feel like a bit of an idiot.
  17. This seems the best place to put this up, I can't seem to find any info on how much one would be expected to pay to ship Ifixit kits over the US/Canadian border. I'm looking at getting a Pro Tech Toolkit and a brass tip cleaning ball ($70USD). I can't find anything on the various cuntstoms page apart from maybe having to pay something, or maybe not. Anyone have any experience with this?
  18. If you don't, how will you know? I saw something about the Rev 2 solving the noise issues somewhere, though I can't recall exactly where. EDIT: I've now had a chance to fully read through that thread, it looks like it would have been a decent pump motor if they had put in a better washer/retainer. I'll stick with my regular D5 for now. I'd return the VPP755 if I was you, Whispre.
  19. I've seen quite a few negative reviews on the VPP755 on reliability and noise, where they go bad after a few hours to days. I can't actually find any info on youtube or google regarding how common this is. It basically looks like a lower noise, better performance D5 variant, but most of the results I've gotten are either that it exists or that it goes bad quickly. Given that the D5 itself pretty much has nothing interesting in searches about the pump itself either, I was wondering if anyone here actually used a VPP755 and could give me some info. Also, what changed in the second revision?
  20. I've got a custom case, the rads are both inside beside each other. When I ran with one fan it was drawing air through both radiators. They draw air in from the bottom and exhaust out the back. What would you recommend for adjusting my methodology? Shrouds specifically made to do every iteration from 120x120 to 360x240? I don't know of any companies that make shrouds like that. I made mine specifically for this machine. Actually, according to my N=1 testing, running 3 fans at my heat loads provides most of the cooling of 6 fans. This result applies to every situation in the whole world, ever. /sarcasm One benefit of running fewer fans in reduced air resistance, though it comes with a reduction in flow rate at any given point on the radiator I was hoping that I could find someone else who's done similar testing, because I'm interested in what happens when you do things like put 120s on a 140 based rad. It's obvious that performance will go down, but is it by a significant amount. Also I'm not running the highest heat GPU on the market. The fans are on a three inch shroud (which means that there is a three inch gap between the radiator and the fans) so it's more like the airflow of one fan over the area of six fans. I run them on a 5 1/4" bay voltage controller. They are 1200rpm max, and start around 600-700 IIRC. I've got enough headroom that I don't need to up the fan speed, and I get much better results upping the pump power.
  21. I decided to thermal test my watercooled setup to see what difference reduced fan counts and pump speed made for my thermals. I'm a silent builder, not a performance user, so I run my pump and fans at reduced speed. I wanted to see how many fans were actually needed (at the reduced power I use) to actually cool the system. I'm running an i5-750 at 4ghz 1.38v with an Apogee XT and a stock RX480 with an EKWB full coverage block. These run to two Thermochill PA120.3 (360mm) radiators, which have six Scythe S-Flex fans running at 600-800rpm connected to them by a 3" shroud. My Liang D5 is currently the loudest part in the system, and is usually run between setting 1 and 2.5. To heat the system I ran Prime95 at max heat alongside Kombustor's furry doughnut. I used packing tape to cover the exposed side of the unused fans, which remained in their 600-800rpm range for the duration of the tests. With the D5 at speed 5: 1 fan - Aborted due to potential thermal runaway. The radiator body was quite warm, indicating that coolant wasn't being cooled enough. Test stopped at CPU 82, GPU 61, but showed no sign of stopping. 2 fan - CPU 73, GPU 53 3 fan - CPU 73, GPU 52 4 fan - CPU 72, GPU 52 6 fan - CPU 70, GPU 49 With the D5 at 2: 1 fan - Untested 2 fan - CPU 76, GPU 59 3 fan - CPU 73, GPU 55 6 fan - CPU 72, GPU 54 I'll abbreviate these to fan count at pump speed, IE: "2@2" is "2 fans at pump setting 2" The skipped fancounts are mostly due to a small difference in temps, 5@5 would fall between 4 and 6 fans, and 4@2 or 5@2 would fall within the degree difference between 3@2 and 6@2. I seem to get the most out of my system with 3@3, with more fans not really meaning more better. I could probably get away with just one radiator, but I don't want to disassemble my loop until my Ryzen gets in. Has anyone with higher heat hardware done a test like this that you've seen?
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