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valkarian

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About valkarian

  • Birthday Jul 10, 1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Singapore

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-4570
  • Motherboard
    ASRock H81M-HDS
  • RAM
    G.Skillz Ripjaws 1600mhz 2x4GB
  • GPU
    Zotac 1070 Amp Extreme
  • Case
    Phanteks P400 TG
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 120GB + Crucial M500 120GB + WD Blue 1TB
  • PSU
    Seasonic M12ii 620W Modular
  • Display(s)
    LG 25UM58P
  • Cooling
    Corsair H55
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K75 Red LED (Cherry Red)
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Rival 500
  • Sound
    Hyper X Cloud II
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

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  1. The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST). Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. CPU is i7-4790k and H97M-E. Mobo was last known to be running with same CPU 3 months ago. Testing is done while Mobo, CPU, 2 sticks of RAM and a working GTX 1070 is connected, with power connected to mobo and aux sockets, and gpu wired up. Monitor cable is secure and Monitor works with working PC. Connected via HDMI, but VGA also tested to no avail. Tested both with GPU in and without GPU PSU is Focus plus gold 650w, sufficient to power system. RAM, CPU and GPU all reseated, no change. CMOS cleared by removing from power and removing battery for 5 min. PC does not boot even with 1 stick of RAM. GPU 100% working. RAM lost likely working. I have 2 sets, one corsair and 1 g skill, both 2x8 and i swap them around. Here's the kicker: When i swapped in my older h81m-hds mobo with an i5-3570, using the same ram sticks, it also did not boot. What seems to be the issue. Update: what the hell, it posted after I connected an SSD. How does that work?! Glad it works though. I'll close this if no further problems arise.
  2. Doesn't help that Intel has openly delayed their fabrication process. I'll mull over it. Thanks!
  3. Im looking only to change my mobo, cpu and ram. Everything else is all accounted for. Anyhow, I gave it some thought. Is it 8700k really worth me giving up ryzen? I turned to the 8700k after some mentioned how ryzen's not optimal for photoshop and premiere pro. However, what im giving up is the compatibility 2 years down the road. If I'm honest, once i place it in there I won't really notice any issue as long as it works for me, so for me the focus is on getting the products that will cause the least amount of what can be called slow or laggy performance. So, 8700k or Ryzen 2600x?
  4. Oh the 1070 is alr owned. Im upgrading from i5-4570. Monitor currently is an ultrawide 2560x1080
  5. i7 -8700k + Asus Prime z370-A + 2x8gb G.skillz Trident z 3200mhz CL16 GTX 1070 Zotac AMP Extreme Cool with a Cryorig a80, housed in a Phanteks p400(TG), Powered by seasonic focus+ 750w Main use: Photoshop and Premiere pro and VR gaming
  6. Nice. What CPU do y'all recommend then? an i7-8700k, i5-8600k? Paired with an Asus z370?
  7. Hey, i do my posts like my tinder profile, I aint got a pretty face so Ima write more and sound interesting. That so. Well, time's an issue so if it won't release during the next month or so I don't see myself being affected by the usual 'wait for the latest and greatest' How come AMD is bad with photoshop and premiere pro?
  8. Yeah. d'ya think there's any point in going for the 2700x for my usecase tho?
  9. So I'm looking to upgrade to Ryzen, either a 2600, 2600x or even a 2700x if y'all feel it's the right step, but hear me out first. Currently, I'm running a 3 year old set-up, with the following specs: Mobo: Asrock H81m-HDS CPU: i5-4570 Ram: 16GB of DD3 from G.skillz GPU: Zotac AMP Extreme 1070 PSU: Seasonic focus+ 750 So my main gripes are that my workload tends to slow down, especially when doing things like editing video on Premiere Pro and Using a large brush in Photoshop for a general blur effect. The effect itself renders in about 5 to 10 seconds making it quite virtually impossible for me to use large brushes and work with large pixels. Furthermore, my current motherboard has only 2 USB 3 ports, which was fine way back when, but now I find myself wanted at least 4, as I want to set up a decent VR connection with 3 sensors. I also believe that the VR headset was slightly damaged due to a USB or HDMI issue, which is why my Oculus Rift had to be sent in for warranty exchange. As games go, I run things on a relatively modest 2560 x 1080 Ultrawide, and don't play too many demanding games at the moment. The main use for the PC is likely to be editing and VR. So. Now to the issue. I find myself facing 3 possible options: 1) Upgrade my Mobo + CPU to a second hand i7 and z97. This would be the most cost saving, but not necessarily the most efficient, as the z97 chipset and the DDR3 memory are all rather old tech by now, and will be rather obsolete within the next years. Plus, I do not expect a large percentage performance gain even if it switched. 2) Upgrade to a B450 + Ryzen 2600 and new DDR4 (16gb) @ 3600 mhz I've read up on the x370, x470 and b350 chipsets, and I'm really just deciding between the x470 and b450 due to the increased compatibility with RAM. I'm willing to run my set-up off an AIO, so overclocking is on the cards, but I don't expect to be doing too much serious overclocking or push the limits too hard. Like, I want performance, but I favor stability, so my overclocks tend to be on the reserved side of things. The main cost here would be the RAM, where i have painstakingly (haha) chosen not to go for aesthetics and forgo RGB ram, and instead run the set-up in dual channel 2x16gb. I also understand that Ryzen benefits with the speed of the RAM, so I picked the highest speeds available to me before price became a major Issue. However, Buildzoid mentions that for overclocking, the B350s didnt really cut it, especially if they didnt have any heatsink. 3) Upgrade to a X470 + Ryzen 2700x and new DDR4 @ 3600mhz This would be like buting an unlocked intel chip to me, and if I spent that kind of money i'd want to maximise my dollar to performance ratio. As such, a better motherboard with better power delivery and specs with a top-end Ryzen chip and dual channel memory so that I can pop more into it when I need to What does the community feel about this?
  10. Dear friend, It was a pre-order item, I think printing only began in june. You know what would be best? I'll look it up for you. Expected shipping date is June 13th. That's yesterday for me, maybe today for you. Hope this solves the mystery! I hope all wearers of the T-shirt high five each other or creepily stare at each other on the roads when they see each other. Honestly, why else did you buy it.
  11. Recently, I ordered a battery off Ebay to replace one that was practically dead and held no charge. The first thing I realised when I turned the laptop on was that my games ran at half the frames it normally ran at on power. Plugging the system into power solved the issue. I've tried meddling with the power settings, and reconnecting the battery. Any ideas? The battery is this model: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2F8K3-Battery-for-Dell-Alienware-17-18-17x-18x-0G33TT-KJ2PX-0KJ2PX-02F8K3/262875579881?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 For example, FFXIV ran at 15-20 FPS while on battery, and only popped up to 47-50 FPS on power. GPU is a GTX 770M with drivers updated. Windows is Windows 10 64bit. When checking the in game settings, game states that it's running on the 770 at both times, meaning it did not swap to the SoC when on battery. Any tips?
  12. It has come to my attention shortly after posting that this might be 'FAKE NEWS' if the reason for the missing app was google not reinstalling it after I reset my phone due to the region block that was already there for awhile. Unfortunately, my memory is hazy as it is, and the app looks wildly different from when I was previously using it and feels so much better ans responsive in this version I mentioned in the link that I think this is still worth mentioning. Take this article with a pinch of salt, you must.
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