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About CarolinaRoots

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  1. That’s not exactly helpful. I have a PSU of that capacity for multiple reasons. First and foremost it’s future proof for when I expand my build with larger processors and use multiple graphics cards. That coupled with an OC on everything can draw a lot of power. As of right now, and even in the future, my PSU doesn’t need to work very hard and makes almost no noise. Plus the high quality aspect of it hopefully makes for less voltage ripple at the source. On top of all of that, I got it because I wanted it. do you have anything helpful to add? or even anything on-topic?
  2. Hi all, im over clocking my R5 2600 and I’m running in to some issues that maybe someone could advise me on. I’m currently going for a 4.1ghz OC and have my vcore set to 1.337. VDroop has my vcore dropping to something like 1.28v and it’s so close to being P95 stable. Obviously I can raise the voltage some more but the vdroop is really bothering me. My my question is: how do I keep my voltages stable on this MoBo? There is no LLC option on the main OCTweaker bios page, but is there something I could do in the advanced options? Can LLC be added to a bios later on in an update? Thanks! my build: ASRock x470 Master SLI/AC (bios 1.4) Ryzen 5 2600 corsair h115i w/ push&pull fan config 3200mhz cl14 ram corsair hx1200i PSU samsung 860 evo 500gb sapphire Rex 580 8gb nitro
  3. I replaced the AIO with the stock cooler (wraith stealth) and I’m getting mid 60’s while playing total war war hammer 2. Is that reasonable for temps? Highest spike was like 73 for a sec. edit: I want to add that I set everything back to stock voltage and frequency
  4. Lol I installed 4 more fans to the case and remounted the AIO. Temps are better, but definitely still much too hot. I think the AIO may have an issue. I hear some sort of bubbling/pump sound when it starts up but I thought it was normal
  5. I’ll try 1.4 when I’m able to a bit later today. My case is the loan-li pc-o11 Dynamic but basically my only fans in it are on the AIO. The AIO is set up as intake from the top though so I didn’t think that there would be any issues with air getting to the radiator.
  6. Update: So I took off the side panels and unplugged the Corsair HX1200i USB cable so it would eliminate that component having a possible effect on Corsair Link. I also set the Vcore to 1.3 and the CPU to 3.9ghz and have the SoC at 1.1v. The temps are significantly lower and more stable than before (according to HWInfo, not C-Link) and seem to be in the margin of error for a bad mounting or thermal paste job. Temps are still high at 75c under Aida 64 load, but that’s a major improvement. My my confusion here is that I have the AIO set up as intake, so I’m unsure why the removal of side panels would effect temps like that. Anyone got anything to add or suggest?
  7. I used a decent sized dot in the center of the chip. I’ve built a few PCs and have definitely made my share of mounting mistakes, but I could just try remounting. The AIO is my “old” one from my previous PC. It’s not even 6 months old yet. I think im going to try remounting it. Hopefully it works! It shows ~3000 pump speed. The reference WAS set to the coolant, but I changed it to the CPU. The problem is that Corsair link shows my CPU as being 130c... They are in push and mounted as intake. My CPU is on auto and not going past like 1.3V so that’s what my concern is about. My ambient here is like 21C for further reference.
  8. Pretty sure. The pump was installed on my old PC and isn’t old at all. How could I tell if it’s broken?
  9. I was intending on OC’ing pretty aggressively, sadly. Ryzen master puts my temps at similar temps as HWInfo but maybe a tad lower. I feel like something is very wrong since I built a PC with a ryzen 1700 and OC’d it to 3.9 GHZ and it has better temps than my lower core/lower power CPU with the same size CLC. I just want to know what might be going on to get me these crazy high temps!
  10. I’ve just built a new PC and am using a Ryzen 5 at stock settings and it’s displaying unsettlingly high numbers for temps. I’ve also noticed that some softwares (Corsair Link) can’t tell the actual temperature either. Corsair link says it’s at 130C so I’ll take a wild guess and say that’s a load of shenanigans. HWInfo puts my temps at ~65C while on stock settings and very mild loads. I don’t think it’s how I mounted the CPU cooler but I’m definitely not opposed to trying it again if that’s what everyone suggests. My Build: Ryzen 5 2600 ASRock x470 Master SLI/AC (BIOS 1.40) Corsair H115i w/ 2 ML140 fans Samsung 860 evo 500GB SSD 16GB Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz cl14 Corsair HX1200i Platinum PSU
  11. That’s a solid answer. So to clarify: with the 4 phases that are doubled, I have the power output and temps of an 8 phase but not the ripple suppression? And I wouldn’t have any problems with ripple anyways?
  12. Okay, I’ll keep an eye on the temps. Most motherboards come with decent sensors for the VRM temps now right?
  13. That could prove to be an issue due to the case I got. I planned on watercooling everything at some point in the near future with what would be my first custom loop. I got the Lian-Li PC011Dynamic, the one that Der8aur helped design. Great for watercooling, not so much for direct fan access to the VRMs lol