For Science!

In case I'm not very clear with the above, please look at my picture below to illustrate what I mean, please note that this PSU is a TYPE 4 one so the pinout is not the same as yours *RM750x).
 

You should always have inhibitor additives, and change water on a regular schedule.

Did a little crappy mock up of this case as well to help me visualise it's really not that big to be honest 

It has been almost 2 years since my original discussion about coolants used in liquid cooling being poorly annotated. As you can imagine, not much has changed since . As we all should know, the identity of the fluid running through the PC has little-to-no impact on the performance since the transfer of the heat from a waterblock to the liquid or the liquid to the radiator is not the rate limiting step, it is the radiator --> air step that has the lowest thermal conductivity. This is why whether it is water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, liquid metal, the thermal capacity and performance of the loop is unlikely to change.
 
Thus provided that the fluid is passing through the system without clogs, the only thing about a coolant is whether it protects the system from growth and corrosion. Like with any computer component, it is important to know the technical specs of anything you want in your system.
 
I have taken it upon myself to compile a summary of coolants and their document active ingredients, highlighting which products have scientifically justifiable components in them. Please note that I have not taken the dye identity into account since pretty much all companies do not list the identity of the dye and so therefore this tier list does not reflect how "cloggy" a coolant is. This tier list reflects how well documented a particular coolant is and how you use it is up to you, it is entirely possible and likely that the coolants contain more substances, but this is based on what is publicly available on their websites. As a minimum, hopefully you can use it to find coolants that are incompatible with PETG. 
 
Tier 1: Biocidal and Anti corrosive compounds specified
Tier 2: Some active ingredient specified, but missing anti-corrosives or biocide
Tier 3: MSDS provided, but lacking any active ingredient
Tier 4: No Information found
 
Clear Coolants
Tier 1
aquacomputer DP Ultra: 20-35% Ethylene Glycol, <1% Benzotriazole
EK-CRYOFUEL Concentrate: 2.5-5 % Sodium 2-ethylhexanoate, <0.02 % Methylisothiazolinone, 0.1-1% Methyl-1H-benzotriazole
Innovatek Protect IP: >25% Ethylene Glycol, 0.5-0.75% Sodium 2-ethylhexanoate, 0.075-0.1 % disodium tetraborate pentahydrate
Phobya ZuperZero Xtreme Concentrate: 30-35% Ethylene Glycol, 10-15% Potassium 2-EthylHexanoate
Phobya ZuperZero Clear: 25-30% Ethylene Glycol,  <1% Sodium 2-EthylHexanoate , <1% disodium tetraborate pentahydrate
 
Tier 2
Alphacool Eiswasser Crystal Clear UV: <0.1 % Glutaraldehyde 
Mayhems XT-1: <90% Ethylene Glycol
Nanoxia CoolForce: 90% Ethylene Glycol
XSPC ECX: 0.1-0.3 % "Antirust Additive", 50-80% Propylene Glycol, 0.01-0.1 % "Bactericide" - **Tier 2 for being unspecific
XSPC EC6: 10-100% Propylene Glycol
 
Tier 3
Coollaboratory Liquid Coolant Pro: 10 % Ethylene Glycol
Mayhems X1: 40 % Glycerol
PrimoChill TrueTM Infused: Nothing
Thermaltake T1000: N/A [<6% Propylene Glycol]
 
Tier 4
Corsair Hydro X XL5: N/A
DImasTech X-Fluid: N/A
 
Opaque Coolants
Tier 1
EK-CRYOFUEL OPAQUE CONCENTRATE: 1-2.5 % Sodium 2-ethylhexanoate, 0.01-0.1 % Methylisothiazolinone 
 
Tier 2
Alphacool Eiswasser Pastel: <0.1 % Glutaraldehyde, <0.1%Octan-1-ol ethyoxylated
Nanoxia CoolForce: 90% Ethylene Glycol
Thermaltake C1000: >90% Ethylene Glycol
XSPC EC6: 10-100% Propylene Glycol
 
Tier 3
PrimoChill TrueTM Infused: Nothing
Thermaltake P1000: N/A [<6% Propylene Glycol]
 
EOL and not recommended
Mayhems Pastel (Concentrate): 40 % Glycerol
Mayhems Pastel: 10 % Glycerol
 
SFX Coolants
Tier 3
Mayhems Aurora Booster: 99% Glycerol
Mayhems Aurora: 40 % Glycerol
Primochill Vue: 14% "Proprietary" 
 
 

Set pump to a constant speed, and fans tied to coolant temperature. Nothing else required.

Set pump to a constant speed, and fans tied to coolant temperature. Nothing else required.

Imo Bambu labs has not been around for long enough to know its true "long-term" potential. Especially given its relatively closed ecosystem and proprietary parts, its a bit hazy outlook. Furthermore, if you look at issues with the AMS system, you can see there are teething problems that need addressing by the company.

Obviously you are in the prusa territory, I personally really enjoyed using the Mk3S+(ish) and can recommend it. If input shaping ever releases on the Mk4, that would also make it faster generally too,

The correct version is B)
Just found this becuase i was cabling the Headset and tried version A) but wasnt right.
 
Hope this helps everyone which is at the same stage, 😉 btw the Fiio btr5 works great with the hifiman Sundara 🚀
 

I'll just grab my tin foil hat and say that Samsung has started developing a massive death-laser on the moon, and so want to make sure its details are never captured by "enhancing" the image and thereby wiping any images of the death laser.

I'll just grab my tin foil hat and say that Samsung has started developing a massive death-laser on the moon, and so want to make sure its details are never captured by "enhancing" the image and thereby wiping any images of the death laser.

Ultimately, each to their own definitions and to gate-keep what they consider a "photo". I would for example consider a panoramic photo to be a "photo", but you evidently would not - and that's fine. A weird line to draw for example a single long-exposure with a star tracker vs stacking aligned shorter exposures in post.

I'll just grab my tin foil hat and say that Samsung has started developing a massive death-laser on the moon, and so want to make sure its details are never captured by "enhancing" the image and thereby wiping any images of the death laser.

I'll just grab my tin foil hat and say that Samsung has started developing a massive death-laser on the moon, and so want to make sure its details are never captured by "enhancing" the image and thereby wiping any images of the death laser.

IT's a matter of technicalities.  Given the forum is that really so strange? 

I think you're over simplifying the matter, and I would also recommend you to get professional help. Making drinking water is no joke task.

But to answer your question, in terms of ease of removal

Insoluble solids (dirt) --> Insoluble liquids (oils) --> Soluble charged compounds (Ions) --> Soluble partially charged organics would be order of ease of removal.

Usually it's just the after taste that is variable but can be good or not good. Tastes like leaves a bit when it's not great. A brita will not take the color away but it will further improve the taste.

Sulfur and iron or dirt, color...taste ect. are not methods of water purification, so yeah, reverse osmosis will be a better method than no method. However RO is generally a last polishing step for already clean water, so if you have dirty water, it is not so practical to use RO to clean it up, think of other pre-purification steps such as resin affinity, or distillation.

Sulfur and iron or dirt, color...taste ect. are not methods of water purification, so yeah, reverse osmosis will be a better method than no method. However RO is generally a last polishing step for already clean water, so if you have dirty water, it is not so practical to use RO to clean it up, think of other pre-purification steps such as resin affinity, or distillation.

Thank you!  Understood.  If it's quiet outside the case, I won't "blame" it for whatever it does when it's in its home!
 
My googling seems to show there's nothing wrong with the Corsair XD5 since it's Xylem-made like pretty much everyone else.  Though I'm planning on going EK for blocks.
 
The overall plan is to quiet down and cool this CPU.  Then find a 4080 or 4090 with no/minimal coil whine (Zotac or an FE seems best bet in the US), and then replace the louder fans (especially on Zotac) with water cooling as well.  I've become a bit obsessed.  And finding out if the pump is quieter than my AIO (and moderate gpu coil whine) is the first step in determining if this will be worthwhile.  If it is. . . I'll finally be able to check "custom water loop" off my bucket list!
 
Thanks!
 
--H

Is the problem specific when you copy between the two drives?
 
Ext. HDD1 --> Ext. HDD2
 
and does it happen in the reverse direction
 
Ext. HDD2 --> Ext. HDD1
 
Additionally, does the problem happen when you copy from an internal drive to the external drives simultaneously
 
Internal Drive --> Ext HDD1. and HDD2. at the same time
 
If so, does the problem happen when its only just one of the drives
 
Internal Drive --> Ext HDD1 only, or HDD2 only.
 
Also as a curiosity, if you plug your keyboad and mouse into front panel ports, does this happen?
 

Just be aware that not all PC coolants have anti-freeze properties.

Just be aware that not all PC coolants have anti-freeze properties.

I assume this is refering to the dye that's accumulated between the acrylic and the jet plate no flow area. Inly cosmetic, and a non-issue. So nothing to fix, and also don't use alcohol on acrylic blocks, they can get cloudy or even crack.

I assume this is refering to the dye that's accumulated between the acrylic and the jet plate no flow area. Inly cosmetic, and a non-issue. So nothing to fix, and also don't use alcohol on acrylic blocks, they can get cloudy or even crack.

I am not sure I even see the issue? It doesn't look gunked up to me, is it flowing somewhat normally?