For Science!

Have you tried this with all other PSU cables apart from the 24-pin ATX removed? It sounds like something is triggering some sort of protection

29 minutes ago, Hany Ghoneim said:

Anyone can help me ? 

You should always have inhibitor additives, and change water on a regular schedule.

Set pump to a constant speed, and fans tied to coolant temperature. Nothing else required.

12 minutes ago, BotDamian said:

Thanks for sharing!
Is it still valid or somewhat outdated?

I have not checked recently, but if you have specific interests in a particular coolant, I could have a look. 

27 minutes ago, BotDamian said:

Because for example when I'm in span I wont bother setting all the curves inside BIOS, just throw out the old board and add a new board and it will be done.

BIOS updates might break the fan curves and put it back to stock, happen to me already on multiple computers.

 

If you know a better way where swapping a mainboard doesn't break all the fan curves etc, I'm open to hear about it, because my idea is a lot of work and I'm lazy.

IIRC most BIOSes I have dealt with let you save profiles on USB sticks that you can load up quickly. I personally think the chances of a small controller dying is much higher than a well-cooled motherboard dying, so to me it feels like your solution to the problem is simply another point of failure.

18 minutes ago, BotDamian said:

Hello there,

I want to say that I'm aware that my mainbaord can controll pumps and such, but this wouldn't be standalone but plugged into a mainboard aka PC.

 

I want to build a standalone watercooling system that is disconnected from the PC.

 

Why?

This system will be used inside a Gaming VAN and if something breaks in the woods, it's kinda hard to fix it.

My mainboard died 2 weeks ago and all the settings were lost, with a standalone solution this wouldnt happen, all I would need to set is the linear fan "curve".

I also use Linux so 95% of all the software that is out there doesn't work.

 

How will I get the system temperature?
I will use an arduino uno that will read the voltage of the fan header that will be set linear

0v = 0c, 12v = 100c

voltage * 8.333 = temp in celsius

 

The arduino would also compare the GPU and CPU temperature and report the highest to the controller via a header, temp sensor header etc.

 

So my idea is as follows:

Radiator IN temp sensor

Radiator Out temp sensor

Arduino (max (CPU temp | GPU temp)) 2 pin out

Flow sensor

 

My idea was to use an Aquaero with a display, but i'm not sure if this is the right way, or maybe i should use a RPI Zero or similar.

 

I don't quite see the logic of "I want the cooling controls to be functional in case the main board breaks" --> If the mainboard is dead, why bother having a functional cooling system for it?

I control my watercooling system through BIOS using 2-pin temperature headers on the mainboard itself. In the past I have also integrated flow sensors through fan_headers. These are OS agnostic settings, so fan curves are applied across all OSes, including linux.

19 minutes ago, Daftlander said:

I am beginning to lose patience with my Ender 3. Every 4-5 prints something goes wrong. I'm going to throw it from a tall building.  Plus I'm reaching the upper limit of what it is actually capable of. 

 

Any suggestions for someone who's been printing as a hobbyist for over 5 years. In the £1-1.5k range? 

 

I don't need much if any more volume, but better speed and reliability would be great. 

 

Everyone seems to think the bambu labs one is amazing. Is that just hype? 

Imo Bambu labs has not been around for long enough to know its true "long-term" potential. Especially given its relatively closed ecosystem and proprietary parts, its a bit hazy outlook. Furthermore, if you look at issues with the AMS system, you can see there are teething problems that need addressing by the company.

Obviously you are in the prusa territory, I personally really enjoyed using the Mk3S+(ish) and can recommend it. If input shaping ever releases on the Mk4, that would also make it faster generally too,

4 hours ago, dilpickle said:

There is a very clear line between post processing and a fake image.

 

Imagine if you took a selfie but your phone decides it doesn't look good so it picks an older image from your photo album and overlays it on top of your face without telling you. Would you be ok with that? Because that's exactly what they are doing with the moon. 

As I said:

16 hours ago, For Science! said:

I do agree that however the line should be drawn when you bring in detail to an image that was never captured in the first place. You can't make up the signal and claim it was captured.

So no, I am not okay with what is being done with the moon by Samsung.

The comment you quoted me on is specifically about whether only a true-single exposure is considered a photo or not.

I'll just grab my tin foil hat and say that Samsung has started developing a massive death-laser on the moon, and so want to make sure its details are never captured by "enhancing" the image and thereby wiping any images of the death laser.

31 minutes ago, Uttamattamakin said:

100% agree.  Astrophotography could better be called astronomical imaging.  Astronomers produce various images, using various cameras and sensors.  What the Samsung phone is doing is about as true of a "photograph" of the moon as anyone has ever seen. 

Fun fact (not for you Thomas for casual readers)  Any image you see from say James Webb Space Telescope will be a false color image.   The goal of these images is to enable easier data analysis.  A fun Twitter feed to follow on that would be @JWSTPhotoBot  to see the more or less raw images. 

 

Not fake just not a photograph.  Not an image created by focusing light onto a light sensitive medium or sensor in one event.  Astronomical images are often as Thomas said, a composite.  Another common option is data taken in monochrome in one wavelength.  Then overlaid on others, but color coded into RGB creating a "color" image out of wavelengths of light we don't even see.  

Ultimately, each to their own definitions and to gate-keep what they consider a "photo". I would for example consider a panoramic photo to be a "photo", but you evidently would not - and that's fine. A weird line to draw for example a single long-exposure with a star tracker vs stacking aligned shorter exposures in post.

"fake" is a controversial term imo, its just a form of composite postprocessing. At least in the example you describe.

Not much difference imo between HDR, or focus stacking macrophotography, or stacked astrophotography, or arguably long-exposures with filters.

Photography has come a long way from a single exposure on film being the only thing considered a photo.

I do agree that however the line should be drawn when you bring in detail to an image that was never captured in the first place. You can't make up the signal and claim it was captured.

On 2/12/2023 at 8:44 PM, Hurin said:

REMAINING NOOB QUESTIONS

 

New Radiator Flush Procedure Correct/Enough?

Depends on brand and state of radiator, but generally I do not recommend using vinegar. Either just water-only, or go all the way and get a proper cleaning and neutralization kit (e.g. Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2).

 

How long can I run with just distilled water?

Since you don't have any waterblocks at the moment in the loop, basically indefinitely. Apart from mixed metals, the first thing to start getting damaged is nickel plating. So until you put those in in my opinin distilled water is ok

 

Seal Reservoir While Testing?

Doesn't matter, opening it will just prevent air pressure buildup in the loop but that's never major. Leaving it open will have more evaporation and thus waterloss;

if you built the loop ok, then it is fine.

Also, tasty water is not pure water, removing all the ions is not going to achieve good tasting water. If the water is safe to drink, have you considered just passing it over a britta filter (for example) to see whether ion exchange is sufficient

9 hours ago, Shadow_Storm56 said:

I meant which of thoes is hardest to remove..... anywayss the reason is I have a building with 2 water sources and one is stream water which is clean other than dirt, color and the expected stuff. I also have a drilled well loaded with iron and with so much sulfur that it'll burn a cut or dry/cracked hand.... I can make the stream water drinkable and pretty decent with filters and UV but it will always have some dirt that may mess up the reverse osmosis. The other well has no dirt, no bacteria and is clean except tons of iron and sulfur...

 

I figure it would be easier to clean up the stream water even if the membrane dosen't last as long. I assume getting that sulfur and iron out of the drilled well water would take alot of steps and be much more expensive than maybe having membranes last less time.

I think you're over simplifying the matter, and I would also recommend you to get professional help. Making drinking water is no joke task.

But to answer your question, in terms of ease of removal

Insoluble solids (dirt) --> Insoluble liquids (oils) --> Soluble charged compounds (Ions) --> Soluble partially charged organics would be order of ease of removal.

3 hours ago, Sparrowan said:

What about combining my radiators for  just one loop per system instead of using running the coolant one rad per component.?

Right now the way i've designed the loop, the coolant will make a journey to at least one radiator before it passes back inside a component (CPU/GPU). That way all 2 CPUs and 2 GPUs are getting one radiator each., ie PUMP-->CPU-->RAD1-->GPU-->RAD2--PUMP

What will the difference in temps be if i were to join the radiators so the coolant passes through the PUMP--> CPU --> GPU --RAD1-->RAD2 -->PUMP?

          SO This is the question

 

PUMP-->CPU-->RAD1-->GPU-->RAD2-->PUMP return

                                  vs

PUMP-->CPU -->GPU-->RAD1-->RAD2-->PUMP return

No difference 

1 minute ago, Hurin said:

Hi All,

 

I've always wanted to do a custom loop but have instead gone with Noctua air coolers for the ease of install and lack of maintenance.  Now that I have a i7-13700K, however, air cooling isn't cutting it.  And the (admittedly mild) noise from the Corsair H150i Elite LCD's pump (even at "quiet") I find annoying.  Not so much objectively, but just annoying in that it's new and louder than I used to have in my old rig.

 

It would be a shame to order everything I need for a full custom loop only to find that a D5 pump has a similar noise profile (even at low rpm) to the Corsair AIO (at "quiet").  So, can I instead just order a pump, a couple fittings, and some tubing, and run the tubing into an open bin of distilled water as a noise test?  I'd be controlling and powering the pump from a nearby computer.  I can't imagine why this wouldn't work.  But then again, I'm not all that bright. . .

 

Thank you for your time!

 

--H

Noise is somewhat of a delicate beast given that how it sounds to you will differ on its location and what its touching. So a D5 pump out in the open not resonating against anything may be quieter or noisier than if its in a enclosed case. Having said that I don't see any issue with testing it out, just be aware that you may not know what speed you are going to run your pump at, you need a suprisingly low flow to be adequate, and that can be achievable with relatively low D5 pump speeds,

Yes it looks good to me. Also 2 loops almost makes sense here as you may want to turn on one system without turning on the other? If it was 1 loop you'd either have one idling pump if the other system was not on.

Sounds like it depends on a certain brass fitting, but by default the way you have it looks like the suitable way. If you aren't bothered to opening it up yourself, you should contact EKWB support.

15 hours ago, Shadow_Storm56 said:

Sulfur and iron or dirt, color...taste ect. 

Sulfur and iron or dirt, color...taste ect. are not methods of water purification, so yeah, reverse osmosis will be a better method than no method. However RO is generally a last polishing step for already clean water, so if you have dirty water, it is not so practical to use RO to clean it up, think of other pre-purification steps such as resin affinity, or distillation.

Easier than?

13 hours ago, GamerBlake said:

Ohh ok would a fresh install of windows do the same thing?

Because I did a fresh Windows install and still no luck .

 

I can’t even get into the bios because the screen spazzes out.

I would have thought a true fresh install off windows would have achieved a wipe. So if that is the case, it may be hardware issues. As said above, you could try you Integrated graphics to see if it can output the correct resolution. Can't completely rule out the monitor is somehow buggy too, so worth seeing with the integrated GPU. 

9 hours ago, GamerBlake said:

What is DDU?

Graphics drivers often leave ghosts that can't be removed with just writing over it with a new driver. In a nutshell DDU is a utlity to remove the drivers completely in safemode, so that then you can actually do a proper new installation of freshdrivers.

DDU the drivers and reinstall driver

Did you install the front base driver and ROG connect Plus?

Did you install it correctly with power, ROG extension, and AAFP cable?

Is the Front Base Firmware up to date?