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For Science!

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Everything posted by For Science!

  1. I think you have 2 seperate queries going on here. 1) Is it worth having 2 loops (one for GPU and CPU) vs having them all looped into 1 larger loop The only real advantage of having 2 loops in that you can drain/maintain/swap components of one without draining the other half of the loop. So if you see yourself frequently changing a component out and don't want to drain the entire loop, that would be the only real reason for having 2 loops. By having the loops seperate, you aren't using the cooling potential of your radiators to the max, as it is rare that both the CPU and GPU are being hammered to the max at the same time, and thus if you are doing unbalanced loads, you can utilize the radiator space to either the CPU/GPU. 2) Is it worth having 2 pumps? Purely for redundancy purposes only maybe, 1x D5 is plenty performance for your outlined loops (radiators provide little resistance, and so your system is more or less just a 2 block system). So having a 2nd D5 in a single loop only provides you with the safety net if one were to fail (assuming you plumb it in series). Obviously, if you have a separate loop, you need a 2nd pump.
  2. The problem is when you spin a fan manually while it is plugged in. A fan spinning fast powered by the motherboard is not a problem. If your fan is being slowed down artificially, this may put more strain on the motor hub, but does not send current "down the motherboard", so even at the worst case will only damage the fan and not the mobo/psu. I think your PSU dying is not related to the fan.
  3. If it really bothers you, you may be able to move the fan one notch down or so, but either way, its fine.
  4. did you have cooling on anything other than the die? Memory, Power delivery, etc.
  5. looks ok to me (my concerns above are not valid). I remember hearing from reviews that Arctic P12 had a particular annoying sound at 50% speed, so this may be related. But it is likely the sound is localized by its placement, so see if you can find out whether it is the front fans, or the rear fans that are mainly resposible for the noise. You may have to set your idle speed faster than 50% if it is resonance. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. Goodluck.
  6. Could you show a photo of it? it would be easiest to see.
  7. Do you have any fans in the "pull" configuration on your D15?
  8. yes, the opaque particles will eventually settle and accumulate in undesirable places.
  9. I would definitely stay clear of any coolant that isn't clear (i.e. no fog, no opaque). So that one you linked is a no-go from me. To polish the block, yes, you will have to open it. If you aren't going to open and clean it between the changes, I would personally just get the same orange coolant as before.
  10. To me it doesn't look like corrosion, probably using a metal polishing compound will restore the surface to brand new. IMO the coolant is fine, you may want to consider a liquid cooled pump like the D5 if you can fit it in.
  11. Check your run settings, you aren't doing SEQ1M Q1T1. But as usual, don't make a meal out of it, its not a big deal, benchmarks are just benchmarks.....
  12. Yes, this device is bandwidth limited, so for when I feel I need it, I can just upgrade the enclosure to boost its speed further. The transfer speed is limited by the USB 3.1 gen 2 connection, not by the drive (though it as fast as a SATA SSD) If I build a new PC, I could also repurpose it as the internal drive, and that flexibility is good to have. The Kingston drive is good, has a competitive price, but is not cheaper than the combo, and there is no reason to buy it if you have a perfectly good drive lying around.
  13. One way that I like NVMe drives is that I use them as a "USB pendrive". As you know, transfer is bottlenecked by the slowest link in the chain, and so copying data from a NVMe drive to a flash drive is still slow. That's why in addition to my NVMe drive in the PC, I use an external enclosure for another NVMe drive that I carry around as my portable SSD. Not bad for a "USB stick", its a Samsung 970 Evo Plus (PCIe 3.0) inside \ https://www.amazon.de/ICY-BOX-Gehäuse-Kühlsystem-Aluminium/dp/B07NCMHG5H
  14. wow, did not expect that from Gigabyte, and also surprised by the particularly poor labelling. Having said that I would have thought a decent modern generation coolant could keep up with this mix, so nonetheless, would be interested to see what coolant (if any) was used.
  15. The radiator looks normal and you only have issues with the nickel plating. Would also be interested to hear what coolant you were using.
  16. just do it man...... its not your OCD, its your uncontrollable shopping habits. tip or middle, does not matter, just enough to get the connector back on.
  17. If you have on already, sure, but no point buying it just for this. Anything long and flat will be fine. No need to make a meal out of it.
  18. Looks like only one, and still fine to rescue. Just put the connector back on carefully, seat it firmly, and then pull it out straight.
  19. Depends on how bent, but if you can get the connector on the pins, usually you can straighten them using the connector itself. Yes, they are quite delicate and you have to take care removing or inserting the connector.
  20. I give up, you're on your own now. Maybe we'll see in 2 more years time.
  21. Sure, you've already pushed it down in your previous video. Once its down, its down, there is no need to force it beyond its resting place.
  22. Its the same as before: 0: Read all the instructions below and actually do them 1: Unscrew the I/O bracket 2: Push down the retention lever (you can take your finger off) 3: Grab the graphics card with both hands 4: Pull the graphics card straight away from the motherboard, steadily, but firmly. 5: Repeat step 4 until it is complete
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