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For Science!

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About For Science!

  • Title


  • CPU
    Intel Core™ i7-7700K
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    Vengeance® LPX 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4
  • GPU
    ASUS TURBO-GTX1080-8G in 2-way SLI
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define C
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO x2 & Samsung 750 EVO x2
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop

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  • Biography
    Got interested in building computers from using GPU machines at work. Casual gamer.
  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

704 profile views
  1. Will a masterliquid lite 120 cool my 3570k?

    What is your definition of "worked"? Are you extensively stressing using things like Realbench/OCCT/Prime95 or just seeing whether you can boot in and maybe run a game.
  2. Will this layout work for my watercooling loop

    You will need a multiport top too. In your proposed layout you will never be able to fill the loop completely.
  3. Mayhems Blitz Cleaning kit

    Part 1 is a phosphoric acid solution for cleaning radiators. Part 2 is a biocidal mixture used to clean the whole loop.
  4. Real Frustrating [High Temps on new Hardware]

    Glad to hear it was indeed a faulty cooler. Enjoy your cooler temperatures and hope you get gaming =)
  5. The Water Cooling Gallery

    Thought the same, but maybe its "compared to a different system". Perhaps he had a quad-vega overclocked coupled with a 7980XE :P.
  6. Are these algaes?

    Everything W-L says is correct. just for my reference, could you tell me exactly what combination of fluids you used for your coolant (including dye)
  7. Dear All, I was wondering if anybody could share with me how rpm sensing works in pumps like the D5. I appreciate that the cable that connects to the motherboard of a PWM controlled D5 sends a PWM signal for rpm control, and the other cable "senses rpm". Exactly in what manner is this done (e.g. is there a tachometer in the pump) and what is the manner of signal sent down to the motherboard. I am asking this in particular with this follow up question: are there any situations where the rpm signal can report that the pump is working when it is not running.
  8. water doesn't move!

    Pictures of the loop and everything (power connections etc) could help us identify your issues. more the better.
  9. static pressure optimized fans are recommended. I personally prefer top mounted exhaust so that the heat it directly put out of the chassis. and have front intake unobstructed so that there is a good incoming airflow to cool other things like VRMs no comment about age of the product. Also don' know about the thermaltake stuff, but it' most probably mixed metals (although again it' probably only a minor consideration for AIO)
  10. Yes but I suppose the s36 is an old product now (2014). Anyhow there are quieter fans in the market so that's up to you the fractal gp12 x2 fans are a good all rounder. Kryonaut is an excellent choice. No risk of damage. push/pull is only worth it for thick and high fpi radiator. so for most people including this case scenario it is not needed. My single fan in push for a 16 fpi 60 mm thick radiator pushes plenty of air through the rax.
  11. I only know Fractal Desig. Kevin s36. All copper aio fell out of popularity because they don' perform much better than aluminium but is more expensive and people didn' care about the corrosion risk.
  12. Yes 360mm radiator will have more cooling potential but it may not necessarily lower the tempeatures (often this is limited by the base plate, or die TIM in the case of the 7900x) but may be able to give you the same temps at a lower noise level. But yes, if you can afford it and your case can fit a 360mm go for a 360mm. Pump failure is far more likely than leaks with AIOs. Your pump is likely to die before you notice any effect of corrosion (I.e. genuine corrosion. effects such as a puncture due to the aluminium going too thin). However there is another aspect where minor corrosion fragments break the pump so perhaps all copper is the way to go. Finally company warranty is very important since if it breaks within warranty you can just get it replcaed. I think corsair do a particularly good job on this front although they do not produce 360mm aios.
  13. You'e in a bit of a state at the moment because you seem to want two things: 1. quality components 2. Leak free, maintenance free system The thing is that by definition of quality components you are looking into getting an all-copper system. this minimizes risk of corrosion and so manufacturers don' need to use so much ethylene glycol which may mean in the long run you are less likely to clog. However all-copper is expensive, but one thing that can be appealing is that since corrosion risk is low, further components (more radiators / blocks) can be added. so therefore premium grade aio often have quick disconnected or removable fittings so you have that option. However these are potential points of failure and leaks. My recommendation is to accept that AIOs are consumables and go for a standard copper+aluminium combo, but sealed. The pumps of any AIO will not be as as good as a standalone pump so so when it fails, bite the bullet and replace it.
  14. Real Frustrating [High Temps on new Hardware]

    The pipes may have some discrepancy in temperatures, but broadly speaking they should both gradually heat up. My gut feeling is that your board is pushing a little bit too much voltage onto the CPU causing it to go over temp. unfortunately im abroad so can' test my own 8700k for the voltage to give you some indicator. Your cooler may be failing too but that' harder to test. 55 degrees ambient should be no problem for both the cooler and the cpu.
  15. http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/water-cooling/s36 360 mm AIOs are rare, I think thermaltake make some although I personally don't like their products. If alphacool has something I might be inclined towards them too since they produce quality custom water cooling parts.