For Science!

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About For Science!


  • CPU
    Intel Core™ i7-7700K
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    Vengeance® LPX 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4
  • GPU
    ASUS TURBO-GTX1080-8G in 2-way SLI
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define C
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO x2 & Samsung 750 EVO x2
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop

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  • Biography
    Got interested in building computers from using GPU machines at work. Casual gamer.
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  1. Water's heat capacity indicates that it will retain temperature for a longer period of time, compared to say, a chunk of metal. 45 degrees water temperature on idle is particularly unusual at a 25C ambient temperature, indicating something is not quite right, or you were for example gaming recently before taking the picture. Liquid coolers take a much longer time to reach "idle temps" after a long heat soak period. The only immediate thing I can come up with is whether your pump is connected to a 12V DC mode header that is set to 100% at all times (i.e. no fan curve) otherwise your pump wil not behave properly; although based on the rpm reading, I Assume you've done this correctly. You have 2 x 1080Tis in your case, are they open shroud coolers? (i.e. not a blower style card?). Idling at 58 degrees also sounds pretty hot to me. If so those 2 cards are probably kicking quite a lot of heat out and your H100i v2 is having to use the warmer case air to cool the water. If you have an openshroud card, then I would personally recommend mounting the radiator as front intake. If it is a blower card, I'm out of ideas.
  2. Temperatures are consistent with the water temperature (shown as 45 degrees) why your water temp is so hot is another question though. had you put on load recently? is your ambient temperature very high?
  3. EK-Cryofuel had best dovumentation. see my signature for more details
  4. but it disintegrates sometimes so I just didn't use it.
  5. The mount metal heating up + mounting pressure, I would imagine its like cutting a glass bottle with a hot wire. Probably too hot in the attic.
  6. Yes its fine, your GPU is nickel coated copper with an acetal backing. Nickel and Copper are compatible metals.
  7. why not both? insert meme here. I was looking to get cablemod cables in ketchup and mustard @CableMod is it possible to decouple the front and back of the cables in the configurator? otherwise I can't faithfully reproduce the 24 pin cable layout
  8. I'm not after a way to hide the colors, I want to be able to show them off while looking "nice", hence the sleeving. Perhaps "90's theme PC, but with modern touches" would be a good way to phrase it. Like to have custom sleeved cables in the multi-crazy 24-pin, and to have custom sleeved honey bee PCI-E Power, etc etc. But if its been done already, I'd like to see too.
  9. I was more after the standard 24-pin crazy multi color business. I think this below is fairly close, and actually, it doesn't look so hideous as I thought it would, it would probably go well in a unicorn barf build.
  10. So odd thought, while watching somebody complain about the 24-pin cable colour, but I had a thought that the thin plasticky cables were just as ugly as the color coordination (or lack thereof!). I was wondering if anybody has ever seen a custom sleeved 24-pin BUT maintaining the same ketchup & mustard colour, Even better if somebody has a photo of such a build. @CableMod, have you seen such an unusual order before? Hit me up
  11. Airdropping some relevant links, group consensus seems to be: likely oxidation, can try ketchup to clean, should not affect performance, if really bothered, consider lapping.
  12. What thermal paste were you using? I think its staining, but within reason that won't affect performance. I can find some other forum posts later tonight.
  13. It's been a month, is your system still holding up?

  14. The only thing slightly unusual to me is your graphics cards being different temps, 10 degrees is quite a lot. Remind me of the thread below, but in that case the wateblocks were pre-installed, so....yeah confusing.
  15. This in an incredibly low conductivity, and is far lower than for example any biocide additive that contains ions (Mayhems Biocide Extreme). To expect a coolant to be non-conductive is simply unrealistic since if you have any ionic substance dissolved into the coolant, this will conduct electricity. The only way to truly have a non-conductive fluid is to run pure MillQ grade water (18.2 megaOhms per cm3 resistance) constantly and being replaced since the water will also pick up ions from your loop.