There is an Error in the video at 10:45 - there is not just one mic on the headset. There are two microphones inside, the one on the front is for ambient noise cancellation/isolation.

I have these Teamgroup CX2 2TB DRAMless SSDs that I'm currently using for storage of movies and TV shows. It's all hooked up via SATA to my motherboard (AsRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4/ac). Yes, I'm aware of their limitations in writing due to the lack of a DRAM cache, but recently I noticed VERY low reading speeds while trying to copy some data from them. A run of HD Tach (attached image) shows effectively what I observed while trying to copy. The section with normal read speeds is the part of the drive which is empty. CrystalDiskMark and other performance benchmarks run FINE again and again, producing the expected (rated) read and write speeds. Real world write speeds are entirely satisfactory for me, but surprisingly copying stored data from these drives is super slow. Any ideas what is going on here, and if/how I can improve this?

SOLVED! Holy crap what a rabbit hole. Thanks to the absolute angel who developed this tool, I could tweak the power plans in a LOT of detail, SUPER cool! https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/windows-power-plan-settings-explorer-utility.416058/ BUT more importantly, in the write-up they mention the "Processor performance autonomous mode" setting in the plan which seems to be the KEY to this whole thing! When I disable that setting on Windows 11, I get the entire power plan performance, as outlined by the power plan settings, instead of some weird sh*t that the newer power system seems to want to do (which results in higher idle voltage and core clocks). It's this CPPC version 2 thing that basically overrides MOST of the power plan settings (which this awesome tool lets you customize entirely) and does whatever it wants. I think this is massive for anyone who switches to Windows 11, because OUT OF THE BOX windows 11 comes with all the power plan having the setting Enabled! I really hope this post helps someone else in the future who is trying to understand why their CPU isn't behaving logically.

A very interesting observation about the behavior of each system - for about a minute and a half after boot, they both maintain the same clock speeds, hovering around 4GHz, EVEN when there is no load (0-1% utilization). However, after about 1:30 it's like a "switch flips" and they both suddenly drop voltage and core clocks to their values shown above. Also, the original Windows 10 system tends to be MUCH more reserved about increasing the clock speed, maintaining under 2.6GHz for most simple tasks or short loads, gradually ramping up to the full clocks and power when a sustained load is initiated. The clean system readily ramps up to 4GHz and higher as soon as any load is encountered. This is so weird - same Windows 10 OS, same hardware, same BIOS settings, same power plan, same drivers...

Update: I updated the two Windows 10 systems so that they're on the same build (19045.3086), and I also exported the power plan from the original Windows 10 system, and still the clean install is idling at higher voltage and clock speed, images for comparison:

Okay, so I managed to roll back the Windows 11 update and just as I remembered, the system is readily clocking down to 2.34GHz. The plot is thick...

OH SH*T! I went to EasyBCD and loaded the original backup it had made when I installed it 3 days ago. Then boom, the 'Go Back' button works! Hopefully this helps anyone in the future who may run into this issue

The update was done last Wednesday, so at most 8 days ago. Using the System->Recovery->Go Back yields this message: Using the 'Advanced Startup' -> 'Troubleshoot' results in NO 'Uninstall Updates' menu present, so the other answer the internet is giving me is a no-go. OBVIOUSLY I didn't delete the Windows.old directory, it's still there. Checking the 'Disk Cleanup' tool, 'Previous Windows Installation(s)' is still there so the system KNOWS there is a peevious system present. NOW, since the update to Windows 11 I installed a clean Windows 11 and Windows 10 system on partitions on another drive in the same system, and I've been using EasyBCD to switch between them, troubleshooting a separate issue. Could that have somehow messed up Windows' awareness of its previous system? Is there a place in the Registry that I can correctly point it to the current Windows.old directory? Or should I remove the other entries from the BCD menu or tweak something else in there? There's gotta be a way to go back....

I've been troubleshooting this for a while so I'll try to summarize it: - 5600G with an Asrock B550 motherboard, Windows 10 Pro 22H2 - Always-on system, so I used to check out the idle performance, HWInfo reported CPU package power around 5W, when left alone recording a minimum of 4.5W - In Task manager, CPU clocks would drop to 2.34GHz on idle, Power Saver power plan - Update to Windows 11 from the Windows Update screen - CPU now never drops below 6W, in Task Manager the clocks never go below ~3.2GHz - On a separate drive partition I installed a clean Windows 11, seems to behave the same as the main system - On another partition I installed a clean Windows 10, PERPLEXINGLY it ALSO seems to behave about the same - power draw is a little bit lower, clocks about the same on the slightly lower side (still nowhere near 2.34GHz) - Noticed that C-state residency is always 0% in C6. Went to BIOS and enabled the setting, it was DISABLED - Now the clean Windows 10 install drops down to 3.5W, instead of 4.5 when my main system was on Windows 10, and the clocks STILL don't drop below ~3.2GHz Something is fu*ky here. I'm 90% sure that C-state BIOS setting was never Enabled, since the Windows 11 update couldn't have disabled it AND if it was enabled the old Windows 10 system would have dropped to a lower power draw like the new clean Windows 10 AND the dirty Windows 11 systems do. I'm beyond confused here. I tried to roll back the Windows 11 update but I'm getting some stupid error about the needed files missing, despite the Windows.old folder being present, it's been less than 10 days. Using the Advanced menu has no 'Uninstall Updates' option so idk... PS - obviously on all these systems I have the newest AMD chipset drivers installed using the AMD Adrenalin installer - Full Install option and latest Windows updates

The Dollar Shave Club link in the OP says Canada is included, but it only redirects to the US site. Are we on our own in Canada?

What is wrong with you people, is this a meme or something? Do you buy a new car whenever you get a 'Check Engine' light? The mouse is currently functioning 100% fine, I'm just trying to figure out an issue which comes up sometimes.

I don't know why I bother with these forums... Anyway, the issue isn't the solder joint between the new encoder wheel and the PCB. To test whether or not the issue is dust, I've wrapped the encoder wheel in a piece of plastic. If the problem still comes back, then obviously it's not caused by dust, or at least not dust buildup on the encoder wheel. In that case my next thing to try is to spray and clean the whole PCB with isopropyl alcohol and the key contacts with contact cleaner.