LyondellBasell

I went with two separate cables straight from the PSU Yes. Installed from the latest ISO onto new drive. That was my initial thought too, but after a total format, Windows reinstall, and driver reinstall, AND a driver update to the 425.31 on the 11th, the issue reproduces the same.

Hi! I've been troubleshooting a new SFF build for consistent crashes and I'd like some advice. Build is 9700k/2080Ti FE on Silverstone's SX800-LTI. No overclocks. Metro Exodus, Obduction, PUBG, 3dMark Time Spy, and Firestrike crash to the desktop (no BSOD or shutdown) at some point during normal operation. No error message is returned, just that the game has crashed, or the benchmarks did not complete. Lowering the graphics quality in games seems to prolong the length of time they will run but does not stop the eventual crash. I hooked the 2080Ti up to a second, separate power supply and the crashes to the desktop stopped immediately. Is this a bad card or a bad PSU? I'm not getting any error messages at BOOT like "overcurrent protection tripped" or anything of the sort. Does the 2080Ti require more than an 800W PSU? Does anyone else have a 2080Ti in their SFF build? Can you recommend a good PSU? Thanks for your time

That's a terrible photoshop job, you can see the box and card warping where they "extended" it.

I know very well how it works (source: am a photographer) BUT for the purposes of GamingGuy's uses (he's not editing the photos, he just wants to open them and look at them) he doesn't care about the white balance data, or the extra information included that allows that granular editing. So the extra information is wasted. My point was simply to reassure him that he's not losing any *quality* (the image isn't losing any sharpness or resolution) by shooting .jpg versus .cr2. That information is only lost if the .jpg is opened and resaved.

If you're not editing the photos, then the lossy compression of .jpg is not going to affect your images. The image will still be 6000X4000, or whatever your initial sensor readout is. Data is only lost when you open and *resave* the image

It looks like the date to answer this may have already passed, but for anyone wondering how it might be done: Plug the appropriate HDMI cable from your D3400 to an Elgato Game Capture HD. (I chose this one because it supports FB live, but if you find another similar device that supports FB, feel free to substitute). So yes, it's possible. You'll need to set your camera correctly, get the right HDMI cable, and have a capture device that supports FB Live.

Spyder5 Pro will work just fine

Always the risk you might end up with a box of rocks and an empty paypal account haha It's not worse, but it's like a crayon to the 5DIV's Montblanc of a system. It's an L series, but not on the same level as something like the 28-70 RF.

Take a look at the Kontour series from Chief. Are they expensive? Yes. Are they worth it? Also yes. I'm a big fan of items that just work, as intended, all the time, every time. Bite the bullet once, and never have to mess with it again. I have two of their arms supporting 21lb panels. The gas struts are adjustable/tunable to your monitor's exact weight, and the cable covers hide everything away seamlessly. They're available in grommet, clamp, pole mount, and wall mount styles.

I would recommend calibrating ANY display on which you intend to do color essential work. It is important that any end product you export retains the look you originally envisioned for it once it's been published. No point in spending hours working on the *perfect* set of contrasting tones and mood, only to find that it looks entirely different when viewed on another display.

As far as the color science goes, are you shooting in raw or jpeg? I know alot of people prefer Canon's color as far as skin tones go, but that only applies if you're not shooting raw. Raw between different camera brands is pretty much equivalent, in regards to color, since there's no processing being done by the camera. That being said, I would take cc's advice and check out the EOS R. It has the full size battery so it doesn't suffer like the RP, and it's very nicely sized. If you absolutely need the focusing speed that only a DSLR can provide, then go ahead and go for that 5D3/5D4. I own the R and I've never encountered an issue of missing focus because it's too slow, but the fastest sport I've shot is men's track so my claim is purely anecdotal and I guarantee the 1DXMkII is superior in that regard. Happy to answer any more questions about the R, best of luck on your new pick!

If you can spring for the BenQ SW320, that would be my recommendation for the kind of work you're talking about. It's not an Eizo or a broadcast reference monitor but it will suffice until you're getting paid to the point where you can justify moving up. Don't forget to calibrate it, and don't forget to let it warm up before you start working.

If you're shooting in Canon's raw format, then you're shooting to edit your photos. MS Photos is not going to be an appropriate app to work on your images. I'd suggest Adobe Lightroom as one of the more beginner-friendly applications for editing. It's simple enough to learn, and powerful enough to grow into as you expand your skills. There are absolutely other awesome, free alternatives if you'd rather not come to the CreativeCloud dark side. Alternatively, if you'd rather just get your images straight out of the camera with no editing, change your camera file format to shoot in .jpg. These files can be viewed directly in Windows, require no processing, and are ready to post to any site you might like. Best of luck, happy to answer more!

*something something give a man a fish....* Learning is half the fun of it!

Just to be clear in narrowing your search down: Are you looking for adjustable *focus*? As in, you can ask the camera to focus on something close and have the background "blurry", and vice versa? Or are you actually asking for the ability to change the depth-of-field (adjustable aperture) as in "sometimes I want the camera to only focus on a very narrow, specific area, but other times I want everything in sight to be in focus."

If you're willing to sacrifice refresh rate, I would suggest getting the 32" 4K, as long as it does the full AdobeRGB gamut. You won't be hitting 144hz with a 2070, but the extra real estate is very useful when working with your images. Print work is interesting in that the print gamut is smaller in totality than the AdobeRGB space, but extends out past it when working with certain mediums. As you can see, working with as much of the Adobe space as you can will let you do the best job of mastering and proofing the print before it's sent off.

I don't know that I've seen Linus do a ton of audio equipment reviews, but there are hundreds of comparisons of the various models and brands available on YouTube, the reviewers will often also list other comparable recorders from Yamaha, Sony, or Roland etc.

Perfect! Sounds like an awesome learning session!

You could use something like an inline monitor/amplifier to act as in intermediary between the audio feed and your camera. However, given that what you're filming is really "repeatable" in that you can't really get multiple takes, I would suggest you separate your audio and video recording so that if one goes down, it doesn't render the other useless. Get an external audio recorder like a Zoom or Tascam, and plug THAT into the car feed. You can monitor and set the recording level, and let your gopro do its thing by itself without the need for any external cables. Just use any one of the myriad tricks to sync your clips in post.

This seems like a niche request. What if you downloaded a free program like DaVinci Resolve and learned how to create the video yourself? You'd be able to get the exact results you're looking for, and you'll gain the expertise needed to create any more awesome test videos, should you need them in the future! Best of luck!

I would be hesistant to recommend the a6000. It sounds like you're looking for a vlogging camera, and, while Sony does have some options that you might be able to use for that purpose, the a6000 is NOTORIOUS for its terrible battery life. You'd be spending a good chunk of that $550 on just keeping the camera running. I'd see if you can find a used GH4.

ASUS PG27UQ. Your eyes will thank me. Your wallet won't.

Supa's correct in that the Lightroom interface is *simpler*. However, I think you should continue working with Photoshop. It's an even more powerful tool and I think you'll get more out of the process by learning how to composite your photos in different ways. Watch Jimmy McIntyre's tutorial on blending exposures. Ignore the bits where he talks about using the Raya Pro plugin, you want the explanation of each method where he uses Photoshop's tools to blend manually. It's all about manipulating layer masks to create the type of blend that's right for the kind of output you want to achieve. Best of luck! Happy to answer any more questions

If you want a full system that automates the entire home, with all the sensors talking to each other...you're probably looking for something like a suite of Honeywell devices. This is at the level of full customisation, enterprise-grade products, though. I would expect to spend 10K minimum depending on the building size, features, and control abilities you're looking for.

It's not too much hassle. Count down from 3 in view of the camera, then snap your fingers or clap. You're basically creating a combined audio and visual cue that you can use to sync all your media in the edit.