LyondellBasell

He mentioned he was talking about portraits, so I'd imagine he's looking for something like Patrick Dylan's style.

It definitely would be. While I'm most people here would LOVE to have a full set of Profoto B1's and all the modifiers they can dream up, it's definitely not a starter kit. You'll be just fine with these CFL kits. Later on, if you like working with continuous lighting rather than strobes (I do), take a look at Aputure. Their COB120d can take any bowens mount accessories and is easy to setup and use.

The main benefit of FF over APS-C is that, for most crop sensors and lenses, there will be a point at which you cannot go wider with your aperture or lower with your ISO to achieve equivalence in a single photo with a full frame sensor and that same lens. For example, if you have a picture taken on an EOS R at f1.4 105mm, to replicate it with and APS-C camera would require a 70mm lens that can open to f0.85. No such lens is currently available for a reasonable price. I definitely understand, I made sure to include the disclaimer that those numbers are a made up setting, picked solely to demonstrate my point with a real, possible example. That being said, this problem is exactly what a star tracker can fix. Because it keeps the stars motionless, from your sensor's POV, it will allow you to keep your shutter open for much longer periods of time. Not only will this give you the chance to expose properly for your stars in a single shot, but it ALSO lets you make subsequent, follow up shots. You can use the followup shots with the image averaging technique linked above, and cut down on your noise even further. Star trails begone! Nothing you can do about the light pollution except make a change in venue, but a tracker will at least allow you to get your subject exposed correctly. You're absolutely right in that, when you use a star tracker, any foreground elements will be blurred. What you'll want to do it capture your shots of the sky, and then composite in a different shot that you've made of your foreground, with the tracker removed or turned off. This way you can expose properly for your foreground as well, depending on what it is and how you choose to light it. It's not annoying at all! I love to discuss photography, and if I dare to speak for the other forum members I'd say they all do too. Happy to have you.

These guys hit the nail on the head. You can fake it, but people can tell because unless you spend a serious amount of time making it *perfect*, the small details are going to give it away. Not to mention, if there are lights in the background, blurring them out will look NOTHING like what a proper fast lens gives you. One of the best and cheapest solutions, as browser said, is to get one of the more afforable DSLRs and a fast portrait lens. The 50mm f1.8 from Canon is a great starter lens. You can focus on making the picture great instead of killing your time trying to make Photoshop do your bidding.

Just to clarify, it's not that FF sensors don't have a low-light advantage. They do; general consensus is that you can get about one full stop brighter exposure with FF compared to APS-C. BUT In this specific case, the benefits of a FF's light collection capabilities are far outweighed by what you can do by simply keeping that shutter open longer and dropping your ISO. Instead of trying to make it work at (and this is totally made up) f3.5, 3sec, ISO3200. you can used a star tracker to kill any motion blur, and use f3.5, 100sec, ISO100. So it's not that FF bodies aren't awesome. They are, and they'll let you take full advantage of all the pro lenses out there by whatever color manufacturer you like. But if you're looking to spend some money to improve your results when taking *this type of specific shot*, then a star tracker is going to give you the best results *for the money*.

The increase in low light performance is going to be minimal for the type of shots you're doing. If you want to get better results shooting the night sky, invest in a start tracker. Increasing your exposure time will do WAY more for you than changing from APS-C to FF. Keep your body, bump your shutter speed down, and comp several exposures together to help kill noise.

What? No. As long as air being run through the radiator is cooler than the liquid in the radiator, it will continue to provide a cooling effect. Even a room at 100F/37C will cool your components adequately. Cooler air is better than warmer air because it will more readily draw heat out of your machine, but 74F is far from being some sort of magic limit. I bet most people with an air-cooled 1080Ti would *love* to see 37C temps on their card.

You can get a used Corsair 900d for under $300.

This totally depends on what kind of cameras and end result that you're expecting. Given your budget and the fact that you want to run 9 simultaneous streams, it sounds like you might be best served by a group of webcams. Putting together something like DSLRs and capture cards is way beyond the scope of what you want to spend.

Look at the Planar IX2790. It's a different direction than the 144hz 1440p that has also been recommended here, but it's glossy, it's IPS, and it's 5K so you keep your high DPI.

I'm going to make a wild guess and say that the "4K" files you're using are not near the same quality as whatever demo loop they have running in the store. If you want to make the most out of your TV, get a UHD Bluray player and some UHD Bluray discs. Watch those, then come back and tell us how you feel.

No, because, as the name implies, color correction is a CORRECTION to the flaws of each individual clip. While there ARE a ton of "presets" out there, none of them are perfect for your specific clips. So you have the option to either flick through a bunch of presets until you land on the least objectionable one, OR make the adjustments that your clip needs. My suggestion, if you want to minimise the amount of time spent doing color work in post, is to make sure you're nailing your exposures on set, and carefully watch the color cast on skin tones.

"How to do good video" is a monumentally deep subject, but some key points might be: Control your camera: use a tripod, gimbal, or other relevant solution to remove movement that will degrade your image and interrupt your story. Control the light: this is especially important when shooting on something like a phone. Make sure your subject is well lit and that the background does not distract from your subject. Without knowing more about what you're filming it is difficult to give specific advice on how to achieve this. Control your sound: people can forgive meh visuals but bad sound will ruin everything it touches. Use the appropriate combination of microphones, recorders, and audio devices to cut ambient noise, capture the sound from your subject, and deliver a clean sound design in your final export.

Hey hi hello. It is me. The salesman. I'm here to sell you screens. I think you should consider two matching 4K 32" panels. This goes entirely against your sales prompt. Hear me out. I do a significant amount of coding and TV watching as well. Two panels are perfect. On one screen, you can open two side-by-side windows, each in an 8:9 aspect ratio. This is awesome. This is way better than 16:9. You can see alot of words and numbers now. The other panel will masquerade as a TV while you write. It's the correct aspect ratio so you end up with the least amount of letterboxing/pillarboxing. Forget included RGB. It's too expensive and limits your options. Buy good panels and ADD RGB. You can buy two complete bias lighting kits for like $120. These aren't your grandpa's LED strips. These are far better. Your desk will be okay. The stands distribute the weight well. If not, add a new desk into the price. You will still come out ahead going this route. LG 32MU59-B or similar would work fine.

If you get the wall mount, just keep in mind that you'll need to mount it over a stud in the wall. Maybe find your wall studs near where you intend to put the desk and make sure they're in places that you're happy with. It would be unfortunate if you got everything ordered and setup, only to find that your monitor placement is going to be two feet to the left of where you wanted them.

I don't know that you'll need any sort of super fancy camera to make the kind of videos you're talking about. You don't need to pay for a bunch of video-centric features that you won't use. If you're happy with the video quality of something like an S8, just stick with whatever reasonable camera fits your budget. The above commenters are correct, in that fixing your sound problem IS important. You're definitely going to want to mic the person presenting in your videos. There is no solution that's going to beat a locally-placed microphone in terms of cutting down ambient noise and emphasising clear vocals. BUT. You don't need a fancy camera that accepts external audio to do this. You can use a powered audio recorder from brands like Zoom or Tascam to pick up the audio. Just clap to sync and you're good to go. This will let you avoid buying more video equipment than you need, and spend the money on better audio equipment instead. Just my 2c

Only specific videos contain HDR content. A 10-bit monitor by itself will provide you no benefit. You need a monitor that supports the HDR10 standard. However, if you find a video that supports playback in HDR, and have a monitor that YT recognizes as HDR-capable, then yes, for that specific video you will gain some perceptual benefit from having the premium panel.

What kind of battery do you have in the external battery pack? Is it the Tethertools branded pack or another model? Make sure you have the relay connected to the 2.1A port and that the battery is fully charged.

I think for the budget we're talking about here, the best and most visible improvements you're going to be able to make are going to be changes to how you take video, rather than any piece of gear. Just use your phone. Start watching YT tutorials on how to improve your mobile video skills. Learn what makes for a good image and what to avoid. And then practice. Don't wait until you go on holiday to start filming and editing. Practice checking your framing. Practice exposing properly. Practice fun angles and cool ideas to give your shots some variety. Practice being steady and using motion to tell a story. And then when you can afford it, get a low-end camera that will let you work with manual controls.

Can you tell us a little more about what you're looking for in the upgrade? Are you missing shots from slow focus performance? Are you looking for sharper detail? etc. What glass do you have right now?

What monitor do you have right now? Are you satisfied with the end look of the finished product? If you're using a TN and you're happy with the way the colors look once you're done with the work you're doing, then just get another TN and save some money. It comes down to the price premium that YOU personally put on being able to have accurate colors. How much is that accuracy worth to you? $200? $6000? Somewhere in the range of available panels, there will be a monitor that makes sense for the level of work you're doing and the pricepoint that you're willing to deal with. If you're just starting out and want something for a reasonable budget, take a look at something like the U2715H from Dell. It's QHD, has both HDMI and DP inputs, and has great color repro. Dell has many options in the Ultrasharp lineup if you want to step up to something pricier.

Ordinarily I'd use the money and get an upgrade on your phone, but it sounds like that's out if you want to give it as a gift. 1080/60 is a pretty common "setting" on most current phone cameras, maybe you can just offer a phone upgrade to whoever it is you want to gift it to? There aren't many standalone cameras, in the price range you're asking about, that would be worth buying. Feel free to check your local used market for a GoPro or similar but right now I'm going to say no, not possible.

Because this is for work, and you've mentioned in the comments that you might have guests needing the use the equipment, the best solution is going to be to get a new, better projector. Dealing with the hassle of finding a solution that syncs all the screens, mounts on the wall properly, doesn't have enormous bezels, AND is within your pricepoint is not worth it. Get a new ultra-bright projector, pair with a SnoMatte 100 from Stewart, and you'll save yourself a ton of time and headaches, especially down the road when you'd have to deal with the screens not syncing or the lack of bezels destroying the edge of one of the panels. Having a single solution that just *works*, even if it's slightly more expensive in the initial outlay, is worth it.

Assuming you already have Canon lenses and don't want to have to sell them and buy into the Sony system: If you don't mind a little extra size and are determined to get the fastest AF - 5D4 If you want to jump on the hot new thing and try out the RF mount and the lens options it opens up to you - R.

If you can't find the dust and physically resolve the issue, just use the "delete dust data" option in the menu