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LyondellBasell

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Everything posted by LyondellBasell

  1. This is absolutely personal preference, but I would recommend a larger step up if you're going with primes. Keep your kit lenses and get something like the Sigma 40mm 1.4 ART. If a large quality difference is what you're looking for, I don't know that the Contemporary lenses are going to be enough.
  2. I have the S and not the SC, but if you can afford it you might look into a native Sony lens to take the adapter out of the equation. It's perhaps a more expensive path, but it will shorten your profile and make balancing easier and your overall weight lighter.
  3. Wacom's Intuos Pro and Cintiq are basically the benchmark for professional, interactive pen devices. If she hasn't tried those yet, they may be worth a shot. I have a Cintiq Pro 32 and accuracy has never been a problem that I've encountered with the device.
  4. Second this, buy a quality video light (or several, depending on what you need to do) and you should be set. Aputure has some great quality stuff for very reasonable prices.
  5. The inherent challenge for all phone camera designers boils down to the requisite size of the device. They don't have alot of space to work with, so they can't use a large sensor. Without a large sensor and lens, they are physically limited in the amount of light/photons they can capture in a specific window of time. There is A LOT that great software can do to work towards overcoming this limitation, but it IS a limitation.
  6. If your camera has an audio monitoring port, you would plug your headphones in there to check your recording levels. It should be labeled as such, hard to say without knowing the specific camera.
  7. It's a justified fear, but when you're filming the sunset, the light rays from the sun are having to travel through the atmosphere at a significantly different angle than they do in middle of the day when the eclipse occurs. This reduces the intensity of the light (which is why it's often so pleasant to shoot at golden hour). You'll be just fine.
  8. Second this. Keep the phone as your camera. Get a recorder plus a good shotgun mic, and a video light. These will be somewhat expensive if you get good versions of all of these so upgrade incrementally as you can afford them.
  9. There's a lot to unpack here but long story short, I'll sell you one for $2k USD.
  10. If the 135 you have is the f/2 DC, I'd suggest getting a D850. You'll be able to use it for portraiture since it will be a true 135 and not act like 200-something equivalent it does when you're using the d7000, and you can fully exploit its sharpness with a higher resolution sensor. Or if you're really comfortable with 50mm, maybe look at picking up the EOS R with the RF 50 1.2L. I can personally verify that it's an incredible combination.
  11. Then just use the phone you already have and save your money for something else.
  12. No matter what you end up buying, you will never be happy with your photos until you learn how to take photos you can be happy with. Don't buy anything and expect it to just "make good pictures". It won't, and you'll get frustrated that you spent a bunch of money with nothing to show for it. Buy your device, but buy a guide to photography or watch tutorial courses as well. Your growth as a photographer will come much easier if you do.
  13. The holes are under the plate on the back. See the small latch below the stand's connection to the panel? The latch can be depressed and the stand removed. Under the white cover plate will be the holes for the VESA mount. I don't have this exact monitor but I used to have a similar situation where the monitor came with a cover plate for finished look when using the included stand, but had the option of removing the plate and the stand if you wanted to use a VESA mount and arms.
  14. The graphics card will have no problem with multiple refresh rates on separate monitors. Make sure they're both set properly in the Nvidia control panel and you're good to go.
  15. The t4i is getting on a bit in age, I'd go for the t7i if you want a starter Canon body. I don't know that there's a direct Nikon equivalent, but the D5100 would be a small step down, and the D3200 would be a step up, in terms of resolution.
  16. If you take it to a repair shop and get it repaired, you'll have your problem fixed, albeit at additional monetary cost to you. You may be able to get this repair bill reimbursed by the shop you originally bought from, but I wouldn't count on it. Alternatively, you can buy a new one and send the damaged one in for repair when it eventually comes through. It all depends on what your personal budget is and how you value your time, this isn't really a decision anyone can make for you.
  17. Just a tip: whatever you end up deciding on, I would stay away from the a6000 because of the mediocre (at best) battery life.
  18. Sony is decidedly IN the camera business. They just announced the A7R4 on the 16th, and have a full line of mirrorless bodies and lenses, as well as video cameras if pro video is your thing.
  19. I would suggest a hybrid of 1 & 2. Don't put in in a checked bag. Put it in a carryon bag. You can control the handling and orientation of the bag at all times and you won't have to worry about it getting thrown or tossed.
  20. Tampering with the mail handled by the U.S. Postal Service while it's in their care IS a federal offense. However, Amazon packages here in the U.S. are often delivered by one of the two other major private entities who handle parcels, UPS and FedEx. Packages handled by these two companies do NOT have federal protection, with the exception of times where they act as agents of the U.S. Postal Service in delivering an overflow of mail. (Source: Drove for FedEx for a few years and every now and then, we'd be tasked with delivering USPS mail when our routes happened to be faster or when there was an excess. Our packages weren't protected, but any mailpiece in that white plastic box was sacred)
  21. Ifi you just want to match the framing that you had on the previous, school-owned camera, the technical specs you're looking for are: the focal length, and the minimum focusing distance. These two measurements are not the be-all, end-all when it comes to determining quality, but they will give you the same field-of-view and ability to focus close to your subject.
  22. I'm not sure exactly what steps you're doing, but I use DaVinci Resolve. If I take a clip, drop it onto a 60 fps timeline, and then use the retime controls to bump the speed to 1000%, it will shorten the clip appropriately. If your computer has a problem playing back the footage, use the "create optimized media" option in whatever editor you're using. Once you've added the clip and retimed it, just make sure your export settings are at 60fps before you send the clip to render.
  23. I'd suggest watching a walkthrough/tutorial for your specific camera, and generally getting to know how all the settings work. After that, take some time to learn about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and light. Understanding exposure and your camera's settings is informative, freeing, and will set you up to exercise your creativity with a lot less frustration. BEST is pretty subjective, and I'm sure there will be alot of other members on here who each have their own preferences. There are myraid options to choose from, depending on your preference for ease of use, inter-app communication, budget, and desire for features. For free, take a look at GIMP, Photor, Pixlr, Photo Pos Pro, or Nikon's own NX-D Capture. For paid, take a look at Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, Luminar, or Affinity Photo. One thing at a time, but you'll definitely need a tripod for this.
  24. EOS R with variable ND EF-RF adapter, mated to: EF 70-200 f2.8 IS III EF 16-35 f4 IS RF 50 f1.2 Sometimes on a Ronin-S, sometimes on Manfrotto 055 carbons, always with some extra batteries and cards.
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