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About seagate_surfer

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  • Birthday 1979-11-01

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  1. Help! - 2TB Seagate Pipeline HD Died @ 215 Days

    Sorry to hear that you're running into issues with the Pipeline drive. At this point, we'd agree that your best bet would be to just replace the drive. You're correct that it's more cost-effective to just buy a new drive rather than trying to fix up the one you have, the reason for this is that hard drive components are not easy to swap and would likely involve buying another drive to borrow parts from anyways, so at that point, it's probably best to just replace it. With any hard drive, it's important to make sure to have a strong backup strategy. This protects you in the event that: A. You shouldn't need to pay a large sum to a data recovery service B. You can just buy a new drive and recover your data easier that way. You can check to see if there's any warranty on the drive to pursue RMA by using our Warranty Validation Tool.
  2. Hi:


    I'd like to draw your attention to a recent post of mine for your comment.





  3. Installing a NAS hard drive in a desktop

    The main drawback with using a NAS drive in a desktop computer comes into play with error recovery. NAS drives are engineered to work in environments which typically use some form of RAID, so the firmware on the drive is designed to work with the controller so that when the drive runs into errors, it has a time limit on how long it can work on fixing the errors before the controller passes it to another drive in the array. This actually helps keep the performance spiffy (yes, spiffy is still a word) when used this way. However, as a single drive not in a RAID array in a desktop environment, this feature could cause errors on the drive to pile up faster than is ideal. If your primary goal is a backup, then it's important to note that RAID is not a backup. RAID is designed to make it so that you can swap drives out which fail without having to take the whole system down to deal with it. For this reason, a NAS drive is probably not your best fit in your situation. Another drive from our lineup which would probably be a better fit is the BarraCuda Pro 8TB (model ST8000DM004). You could also go with an external such as the Seagate Expansion 8TB (model STEB8000100).
  4. Little help please

    it's hard to say exactly what's happening without knowing more about your system specs and whether it is a legacy BIOS or the newer, advanced one known as UEFI. We did find this Windows Setup article from Microsoft which may be of help.
  5. What Drive Should I Get?

    for games and movies, as far as our offerings go, you probably don't need to shoot for more than a standard BarraCuda (desktop-grade) drive. Depending on whether you're looking for 2.5" ("laptop" drives) or 3.5" ("desktop" drives), there are several options we have in 4TB for your use-case: 2.5" BarraCuda: model ST4000LM024 3.5" BarraCuda: model ST4000DM004 3.5" BarraCuda Pro (5 year warranty, 2 free years of rescue services): model ST4000DM006 If you're using a laptop or going for the 2.5" model, just keep in mind the height of the drive is 15 millimeters, some laptops can only fit a drive which is 7 or 9 mm.
  6. How does HDD warranty even work?

    where you're not going to be having redundancy, then the IronWolf Pro might be the better bet, not only because of the 5 year warranty versus 3 years for standard IronWolf, but the Pro also comes with 2 free years of Rescue Services as well. That, or go with the standard IronWolf and also have a backup external drive.
  7. Seagate portable problem

    Hmm, interesting. I almost wonder if you could get it to work running it in compatibility mode. As far as the health of the drive goes, you would check that using SeaTools running a Long Generic test. Seems the software you're using rates it okay, however we can't say for certain with 3rd party software.
  8. Seagate portable problem

    Have you tried installing DiscWizard and seeing if the drive is seen there?
  9. Missing Mirror(Raid 1) Option in Windows 10 Disk Manager.

    If you want to set up RAID from inside Windows (software RAID), you will either need some 3rd party software which does it, or use Windows Storage Spaces. This should be in your system and security settings but you can always just search "Storage Spaces". Alternatively, to set it up from the BIOS (hardware RAID), you will need to go into your BIOS settings to where your setting for the drive type is, it will most likely be set to AHCI, and needs to be switched to RAID. This PC Gamer article may be of help.
  10. need help with my storage delema

    You could go with a dedicated NAS enclosure, a few popular vendors are Synology, QNAP, and ASUSTOR (ASUS' NAS storage division). You might find some useful pointers and general wealth-of-knowledge from the people over at r/datahoarder as well. It's a fun sub.
  11. Does a hdd HAVE to be screwed in the case?

    It can be run completely horizontal or completely vertical. Never have a hard drive powered on when moving it, but either of those ways is fine, just never on any kind of partial angle or slant.
  12. Does a hdd HAVE to be screwed in the case?

    if you do decide to try to attach a hard drive to your case in some way other than a specific designated bay for it, it's important to note that it should either be completely vertical or completely horizontal in the best interests of the drive's health, here is a link from our Knowledge Base on the matter.
  13. RAID 1 or external backups?

    came here to explain that RAID is not a backup, got thunder stolen. Basically RAID (with the exception of RAID 0 which is strictly to boost performance and since you're getting an SSD anyways is fairly irrelevant in this case) is meant to prevent having to knock your system down in the event of a drive failure, so that you don't have downtime, but should never be considered your main backup strategy. The best investment for your wallet with the info you've given would probably be to buy the SSD, buy an internal drive for whatever main storage you feel the SSD can't provide, and buy an external drive for backups. Alternatively, you could look at investing in a larger capacity SSD and then have the external for backups. Whatever floats your boat.
  14. Nas = desktop drives?

    A lot of the reasons for people buying NAS drives are listed in your post, extra warranty, error correction controls, firmware specifications, data rescue service subscriptions, etc. One big thing which hasn't been brought up much in this discussion yet is vibration concerns. When mechanical hard drives spin, they generate what is called RV (Rotational Vibration). Now think about a NAS box which has x number of hard drives in it, this means a lot more vibration to take into consideration. The firmware on desktop drives doesn't have a whole lot of support for detecting and adjusting for these vibrations, because that's not the use the drives were engineered for. This can cause the drive to both slow down when the vibrations jolt and move around the heads and other tiny mechanical components, and also cause the drives to wear out quicker. NAS drives have firmware that protects against those things happening. Our IronWolf line of NAS drives carries firmware for this called AgileArray. There are also physical RV sensors built into the IronWolf capacity 4TB and larger, as well as in all models of the IronWolf Pro to take it a step further. It may not seem like a big deal when firmware in drives as different, but it can be like fine-tuning a car to hit a racetrack versus to go up a mountain, the components can be quite similar as to what actually makes up the car, but you still wouldn't use them for the same thing. Or a mountain bike versus a road bike. They're the same but yet they're not. Here is a video on choosing the right drive for the right job for anyone interested. Lastly, it depends as well on if you're using a dedicated NAS enclosure like Synology, QNAP, ASUSTOR, etc. Because these vendors will typically only support drives on their compatibility lists, meaning if you need support for their enclosures then having non-supported drives in them could cause you some unwanted headaches/complications.
  15. RAID 1 only utilises the storage of one drive

    No problem. If it were me setting up a storage solution, this is likely how I'd go based on how many disks I had: 2 disks - RAID 1 3 disks - RAID 5 4+ disks - RAID 6 or 10 depending on what the system was being used for. A lot of people default automatically to RAID 10 here because it has striping performance benefit, but there's one subtle difference: While RAID 6 isn't quite as fast as RAID 10, it is more redundant. Both RAID 6 and 10 can technically withstand 2 disk failures, but for RAID 10 to withstand 2 drive failures, it has to be the "right" two drives failing. RAID 6 can withstand ANY 2 drives going down at once. So it just depends on whether, for a specific application, you value performace or redundancy more.