LainVonDark

ya try running with less stuff plugged in as a test.
 
for ref my setup
4770k
MSI z97 Gaming 5 (I think)
USB devices
K70 RGB
Blue yeti
M95 RGB
Fiio DAC AMP
 

My MOBO has USB power issues, if i have my devices pluged in a certain way it can't provide enough power to all devices so 1 will just not work. I get by this by trying out different combinations of which ports are used. (all these RGB stuff takes more power.)

It's not, however you should go with a 1440p monitor of 27 inch rather since the 1070 won't manage 4k, I would personally disregard the advice above, 1080p on a 4k monitor looks blurry and bad... in fact any non native resolution will always look worse than it would be if it was native due to pixel sync.

If you are ocing, get a H100i or noctua

h100i

I have some clearance issues with the top radiator and 90 degree rotary fittings on the front radiator, it's a really really tight fit. The radiators are Dark Side LP240 and LP 360 slim radiators for the top and front respectively (27.5mm thick) so going with the EK Slim radiators I can definitely recommend (25 mm thick, just the extra 2mm I would've needed )

Getting a t fitting and a ball valve would be the easiest and cleanest. I still haven't done one on either of my rigs and I regret it every time I mess with something.
 
Either way it would work, the water will take the path of least resistance, so just make sure its a decent plug on that dead head.
I just undo a hose and try to direct as much as I can, but im very lazy.

I dug a bit, and if you're getting a 250 or 500GB drive, the 960 evo actually has below-par performance. So the only 960 evo worth its price is the 1TB. The fact is that SSDs from the same series but different capacity will actually have different performance.
 
So if you're going for those capacities, see if you can find a 950 Pro 256/512GB for less than the 960 pro, or go with the 960 pro itself.
 
You can read more here.
 
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/samsung-960-evo-nvme-ssd-review,4802.html

Yes that can be done without an issue, it's best to try and have as short as possible like with a ball valve instead to prevent any areas of low flow rate or where coolant remains stagnate over time. 

960 Pro is slightly faster and has more write cycles. In real world terms, it's basically nothing. 

@W-L
@Mick Naughty
 
I don't see why it shouldn't work. As long as the drain is at the lowest part, it should be fine, but I've never water-cooled so wait until someone verifies that.

A Corsair CX550M or a Seasonic S12II 520watt should do the trick perfectly  (aka what @Castdeath97 said but cheaper and less watts) 

A 650W CXM or a 620W S12-II will both do fine. Get a 650W G2/G3 or 650W RMx if you can afford because why not they are good.

@LainVonDark pin extracting tools, a crimper, a knife, heat gun, heat shrink, and wire stripper are the common tools

@CableMod Nevermind, I found what I was looking for. Thank you for all your input!

@LainVonDark based on your previous comments I'm assuming you're in the EU, I'm not familiar with where to purchase the tools over there admittedly, my apologies.
I would bet overclockers.co.uk would have the required tools though.

@LainVonDark you could but yes this would require several different tools.
 

The rads I use in my Air 540 are by Hardware Labs. (Black Ice)
They're slim (30mm) and also have a lower FPI density than EK rads so I can run my fans at lower RPMs.
 
I'm cooling a 6700K and a 980Ti with exceptionally good results.
The load temperatures I get on this loop look like the idle temperatures of other cooling solutions.
 
You're already using way more radiator space than necessary for the number of components you're cooling so you can expect to get some frosty temps.

Cablemod?

@CableMod offers good cable kits, you can custom design them by color and length using there configurator tool. 
 
 
https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/

I don't believe I was rude in any way though, if it came across that way I apologize.

I don't believe I was rude in any way though, if it came across that way I apologize.

I would wait for X299 and Skylake-E if u can!
Or maybe Ryzen 7 (1700/1700X/1800X)

I don't know if ASUS resolved the issue regarding to QA / defective X99 StriX motherboards...but that was the MAIN reason I backed my way out of it when I was picking out the parts of my X99 build -- and ended up getting the X99 Deluxe II instead.
 
The StriX and Rampage are both part of the R.O.G. line-up, but the StriX being the lower end alternative.
 
Rampage:
Extra ports on the rear (e.g. USB, Ethernnet/LAN) Reinforced PCI-Express on ALL slots Extra LED lighting on the motherboard More overclocking features (e.g. more switches, debugging, etc) Extra fan headers More included accessories (e.g. ASUS fan extension circuit board) DAC Module for your audio Can support 4-way SLI or Crossfire In all honesty, the Rampage V Edition 10 is unnecessary, and the StriX would do 90%+ of all situations. If you want/need the extras, then go ahead with the Rampage.
 
 

As said before, many games will support Ultrawide resolutions just fine. Some games however - like the Mass Effect Trilogy or Skyrim for example, which have Hud scaling íssues - may have various problems. If you find a game which doesn't work out of the box, just google it. Many people dedicate work to make games Surround-capable. These patches often help for Ultrawide resolutions too.
A tool you should definitely grab is Flawless Widescreen, which also fixes FOV issues, mentioned Hud scaling issues and more by memory hacks (please remind the risk for bans in multiplayer games, though newer ones normally support the resolution).
If Flawless Widescreen doesn't help, check WSGF.org for example, since some patches haven't been integrated into FW yet.
 
Hope I could help