sauce-c

If you need upgradable RAM and don't mind low sRGB display then it's good

Right, they go hand in hand. Good point. Suggestions still stands, go with the 8600k OP

dGPU is nice to have for that but not 100% necessary

I’d say you need at least 8GB of RAM for Photoshop to run smoothly 

That is going to be harder. I don't know a lot about that, but what I do know:
-Windows 10 pro can remotely control/be controlled by other PC's also running W10 Pro.
-Private Twitch streams are a thing, so that could work if 4k streaming is a thing. (Twitch has compression so don't)
-More professional-like: Get a service or make a service that loops a specific file from the interwebs (You could even just make an unlisted website with no meta) then just change the video file, replace it with one of the same name and BAM! (Just don't use youtube, compression is bad for demos).

Yes, that, from best I can tell, is going to work with the NGFF cards
Unless this is wrong:
http://www.wellshow.com/rf-connectors/mini-connector/ipex-mhf4-connector/

Ah, I see now. After further digging, which still produces some conflicting results (yay internet) you need an MHF4 connector and those are MHF3 connected cables. They are similar expect in size so that's why I was having such a hard time tracking down everything and telling them apart since I think they are all IPEX style cables, but I digress.
 
If you search IPEX or u.FL by itself then you get all sorts of garbage which is hard to sift though =/

There is lots of sheilding on those connectors, and probably not as much in your soldering job. Also that connector is a pain to solder, there are 2 contacts in that little connector.

Awesome thank you so much for the help!

um same layout you currently have. only remove one end at a time and put in new wires in same pattern. try to keep like colors of all cables being the same color though if you have to change color. i.e. Red=neon black make a chart so you can't forget

a very small 1mm or 0.5mm flat head screwdriver is all you need usually. you just have to bend the pin catch back towards the pin. shouldn't hurt plastic at all.

Awesome! I'm planning on using the 270R for my first build, but was worried about dust filters. I'll have to do this!

Hey guys, I've been searching for a new chair for a while now but it seems like I don't really have the budget for a nice one, racing or regular office style. However, I saw mass drop had an AKRacing drop going on right now and was wondering if anyone who owned one had anything to say about it? At only $170 it seems like a fair deal. I don't see any outstanding reviews on them, but I also don't see any terribly negative ones. 
 
In terms of usage I am a student and spend a fair deal of time in my office chair. My current one is very old and causes me lower back pain because it has no support. 
 
Link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akracing-gaming-chairs-2017-models-last-chance#description

no, because its not that easy. And depends on the PSU.
And you assume that the Efficiency has to be better wich depends on the unit and isn't always the case and depends on the unit, you can not assume anything.
And even if, 2% at 400W are just 8W Difference. Yeah, great...
And you don't even know how much that 750W might or might not save. That's just a guess from you. And especially in 230VAC the differences are far smaller than in 115VAC, the Efficiency "Curve" far flatter. Just look at Reviews that test both...
 
Replacing a 60W Lightbulb with an LED ones cost less and saves way more money...
Or a fluorescent lamp with an LED one...
 
Maybe, maybe not.
And you do not know if the PSU will work with the next graphics card or cause problems. 
If you get the 750W and it doesn't work with the next graphics card, you are more screwed than with the 450W one.
 
THAT now is really bullshit!
And in 9 out of 10 cases not true.
Just look at Bitfenix Whisper M or Formula. Both have the same design from 450 to 850W. How should the higher wattage one have lower RPM under load? 
Without violating the laws of thermodynamics its only possible if you allow higher temperatures. And that reduces the lifetime...
And the 650W Whisper M and higher have almost double the RPM in idle than the 450 and 550W, don't know about the Formula.
 
For what would he need 650 or 750W??
mGPU Setups don't even work with many games these days.
 
So the "flexibility" is just a waste and useless..
 
Yes and why propagate more Watt than you will ever need??
Yeah, because there is also Crossfire.
But that doesn't change the fact that it doesn't even work.
Vulkan (DOOM) didn't even have mGPU Support with the Vulkan renderer, don't know if they have now or not. 
Most Console Ports like some Koei Tecmo or Square Enix Games like Nier Automata also don't support mGPU at all.
 
The list of games that don't support multiple graphics cards is fairly long!
 
Wolfenstein II the new Colosus, well, that's what the manufacturer says in his FAQ:
 
 
So no, mGPU for Gaming is not an argument.
 
That's a corner case...
You don't make rules for the exception, you make them for the norm..
 
And if you have Money to throw at shit, you don't buy a Gold certified PSU at all.
You go straight to platinum.
 
And that's another thing you are missing. That there are some models available in Gold and Platinum. And if you want Efficiency, you go for the Efficiency.
 
For example:
https://geizhals.de/?cat=gehps&asuch=Focus+550W&bpmin=&bpmax=&v=e&hloc=de&filter=aktualisieren&plz=&dist=&mail=&sort=p&bl1_id=30
 
There the 2% are guaranteed (well, more or less), wich is not the case with the 'megawatt PSU'...
 
 
Yes, and?
If people do that, then most likely not to run games on it but do other stuff with it...
 
Yes, totally agree with that. 
Its one of the problems with PC PSU, as well as other fairy tales...
 
Yeah, no hard feelings.
I like diskussing things too. 
With PSU its soo often "Feels over Facts"...
And even with Facts we are still guessing...

Yeah, I'm more so talking about the mainstream PSU's in that $30-$80 budget that most people seem to have when building. 

Yeah, the people that actually need this info don't really frequent the forums. They just watch their favourite tech Youtuber, see that they put an EVGA B1 600W into their *budget* build with a 1050 Ti or GTX 1060, trying to justify the wattage and model with their lackluster arguments (because nearly none of them have any clue at all about PSUs), and come to 4 conclusions: more watts is always better, a 1060 needs at least 600W, higher end cards need even more wattage, and brand name PSUs are always a good choice. 
Slight rant over, the more people that get some idea about PSUs the better, because they will eventually find some that have no clue. And then they can at least stop some misconceptions. That's what I'm hoping, anyway

Instead of spending those extra $30 on a higher wattage PSU, it would make more sense to get a higher tier PSU for that price. That will be more efficient than the 750W PSU (not that it matters at all).
So a higher RPM fan will be quieter, and will run at a lower RPM? Instead of getting a nicer PSU that can run at a lower fan RPM, and that often has a nicer fan. Take the CX750M, for example. A very decent budget PSU. At a 375W load it runs its sleeve bearing fan at 1050 RPM for a noise level of 27dBA. The RM550x runs a 385W load with the HDB fan at 610 RPM for a noice level of 10dBA.
 
Edit: should also mention that the source for fan RPM and noise levels is Cybenetics

No, they do not.
They only offer disadvantages like higher speed fans, higher cost-
1. Irrelevant, doesn't really give you anything and can be annoying and a problem sometimes.
2. No, that's a Myth and depends on the PSU. Some have their peak efficiency at 30%, others at 50% and some others even higher. You have to look at the PSU you want.
3. No shit, sherlock. But what if you do not need it? What good does a 750W do for a system that consumes 300-350W at most? What benefit do I have from such situations?
Well, except for 2000-2500rpm fans instead of 1200-1500rpm and idle fan RPM of 700-900rpm instead of 400-500rpm of course..
4. No shit, sherlock! 
And what if you don't need any of the cables?
Lets look:
450W, 90€ -> https://geizhals.de/be-quiet-straight-power-11-450w-atx-2-4-bn280-a1753697.html?hloc=de
1000W 175€ -> https://geizhals.de/be-quiet-straight-power-11-1000w-atx-2-4-bn285-a1753728.html?hloc=de
 
Yeah, that isn't that much, totally. Absolutely. Only almost double the price of the 450W. it matters not, does it?!
And it comes with a 2100rpm fan instead of the 1250rpm!!11 
~double the power ~double the fan RPM!!!11
That's totally better. Because 2100rpm >>>> 1250rpm...
 
Headroom for what?
When the manufacturers of modern PSU state that their PSU are able to output 100% of the advertized wattage at 24/7 Operation. Bitfenix does that on their boxes for example.
We aren't talking about 2006 and earlier, when most PSU ware garbage (well, OK, that didn't change that much).
But today we have some really awesome quality ones that can easily deliver 100% of their wattage.
Yes, but for that even a 450W would have been plenty of headroom.
 
With most systems we are talking about something around 250-350W under normal gaming load...
There has to be something really trying to push it, to get even close to 400W or over.
You need overclocked hardware for that...
 
No, you think that while there is no basis for believing that.
Since we are talking about a Desktop/Mobile System with garbage thermal paste between lid and die.
If the CPU would draw some serious wattage, it would die instantly because it can not transfer the heat from the Die to the heatspreader.
No it is not. With normal usage its something like 5-10 bucks per Year.
And you already wasted around 30€ for the 750W instead of the 450W, so that's at least 3 Years.
And even if, we have to take a closer look at the load. What you believe might not be that true.
So it is entirely possible that one line like 450-650W is based on the same plattform and optimized for 650W, the 450W is downgraded a bit with parts but the efficiency at 450W load doesn't differ more than 1%. 
 
So we are drifting in the land of fairy tales and believing strongly that something has to be true, even if it is not true and just something you imagine.
 
And in that time isn't it highly probable that you might replace the graphics card??
So what then? What if you replace your 200W TDP Graphics card with a 120W TDP one?

The x04 Chips from nVidia were Mainstream for a long time - somthing around 200€ or less...
Now its sold for as much as 750€ (500€ before mining) (GP104 -> Geforce 1080) while the cheap ass x06 chips take the place of the x04 chips from then...
 
And with that the Power consumptin shifted DOWN for most people...
 
So for most people who don't want to pay 750€ or so for a high end chip, they are stuck with the 150W TDP ones or less...

Why only mention efficiency? Because that's all I wanted to add to the conversation that had not already been brought up. 
 
I did not say to buy a lower end PSU for "more efficiency" over a higher tier PSU. My only point is that for the small price jump between lets say a 450w PSU and a 750w PSU of the same model it's worth it to pay the very small premium for the extra wattage. It will have higher efficiency in most cases, the fan wont be full blast all the time which has plenty of pro's, etc. 
 
I think you're literally just looking for arguments here, I'm out. 

If it's tinted (assume a black tint), it will make it dimmer compared to a completely clear window. IMO, it's can actually make it look a bit better as it takes some of the harshness out of the light and makes it more like a glow.

Another option, which I would take, is to save $60 more dollars and get the 8600k. It will hold its value because its a K variant and you'll have overclocking ability. 

I did this to the ASIC miners to keep Asian Beatles from a very messy demise at the hands of a very torquey 4000RPM fan.

Nice, I’ve done this before making custom sized filters and it works very well. Just a quick tip though if you use the 20x20 bug or no-see-umm mesh it works really well at trapping the fine dust that can pass through regular larger screened meshed. 

Hey all! I know this probably isn't considered a "mod" but it seemed like the best place to post this. Last weekend I updated my build, and one of the updates was finally putting dust filters on the front and top of my case. There are no dust filters available for my Corsair 270R, and even if there were I don't want to pay a ridiculous amount for them. So I took the issue into my own hands and made my own. These were very inexpensive, fully customizable, and easy to make so I thought I would share for those of you who have similar problems. I bought all of the materials from my local Menards, but I am sure any hardware store would carry them.
 
Materials:
Window Screen (The softer more flexible kind, not the metal stuff, I bought a massive roll of it for $6)
Adhesive Magnetic Tape (I was able to get 60in for about $6)
Measuring Tape or  Ruler
Scissors or Knife
 
The process is pretty straight forward. Measure the area you need to cover on your case, measure the same area on the mesh, then cut. Take your time cutting, the material cuts very easy with a sharp knife so it is easy to slip and get off track. Once you have cut your piece double check to make sure it is the right size for your case and make adjustments if needed. Finally, measure a piece of magnetic tape for each side, apply them to the mesh, and put your new filter on your case! Below I have pictured my top filter, there is one very similar to this on the front of my case as well. 
 
Good luck! I hope this helps some others out there. 
 

Hey all! I know this probably isn't considered a "mod" but it seemed like the best place to post this. Last weekend I updated my build, and one of the updates was finally putting dust filters on the front and top of my case. There are no dust filters available for my Corsair 270R, and even if there were I don't want to pay a ridiculous amount for them. So I took the issue into my own hands and made my own. These were very inexpensive, fully customizable, and easy to make so I thought I would share for those of you who have similar problems. I bought all of the materials from my local Menards, but I am sure any hardware store would carry them.
 
Materials:
Window Screen (The softer more flexible kind, not the metal stuff, I bought a massive roll of it for $6)
Adhesive Magnetic Tape (I was able to get 60in for about $6)
Measuring Tape or  Ruler
Scissors or Knife
 
The process is pretty straight forward. Measure the area you need to cover on your case, measure the same area on the mesh, then cut. Take your time cutting, the material cuts very easy with a sharp knife so it is easy to slip and get off track. Once you have cut your piece double check to make sure it is the right size for your case and make adjustments if needed. Finally, measure a piece of magnetic tape for each side, apply them to the mesh, and put your new filter on your case! Below I have pictured my top filter, there is one very similar to this on the front of my case as well. 
 
Good luck! I hope this helps some others out there.