Zando_

Ps3 emulation is kinda made around avx512 it makes a big big difference.

I haven't used one in ages, because I pretty quickly move from distilled water -> EK Cryofuel. I believe I had some Mayhems stuff before, twas what I was recommended by more experienced custom loop folks, so I'd look for something from them. 
I've used the Red before in a loop for a friend years back, the color faded out (I think it soaked into the ZMT tubing) after ~2 years but it didn't have any effect on function. Color fade + none of my gear is see-through (aside from the res) is why I just use Clear now. 

my mistake, its just a normal rad not an AIO.
my main question is do you recommend any particular biocide? are any of the three i mentioned above ones that you know work (or know dont work)?

AIO? Like, you salvaged the rad off one? 
Dump it, go to the nearest supermarket and get distilled water, use that. 
Short term just distilled will be fine, if it's an only copper and nickel loop just a basic biocide to keep things from growing should be good. 
I'm lazy, I buy EK's Cryofuel Clear premix in 1L bottles and just use that. Haven't had any issues with it. 

Yeah, figured that that was the issue. That's beyond my capabilities then. 
Yes, I have an older dedicated oven for this. 
Also, nice titan you got there

Well he menitoned that its not idle but 10% utilization.
I currently have about 30 tabs of chrome open with discord and LoL Launcher and I am sitting only at 5% so 10% utilization is certainly not idle, not even close

Then get a 5800x3d, you can keep your board and RAM supposing they're decent 

Because not every website uses the same server
even if your setup can do 10Gbps you'd still be limited to what computer yours is connected to

They are actually usually made from salvaged c602 / c612 server chipsets and support ECC fine. As for quality, I can't comment on all, but I've been running one for about 5 years now and it's been fine. BUT I have heard stories of people being not so lucky.

You're very close to the point. The amount of power your PC pulls is completely inconsequential. I pointed out the inefficiency to highlight how you're not effectively sticking to your own proposed practices (it is incredibly easy to buy used parts that are exponentially more efficient, and also already manufactured so you are not necessitating the carbon/moral debt of a new piece of hardware being created). Same as the original call for disabling NTP, it would cause a lot of function, reliability, and efficiency issues and solve about 0.
 
If you find it satisfying to tweak old hardware to the lowest possible power draw, hell yeah. I have friends who enjoy seeing how efficient they can get their computers. It's just important to understand that that is not practical across the board for everyone, and certainly doesn't make any difference in global power consumption.

No. 80+ is the efficiency standard, wattage rating is separate and a sum of the 12v/3.3v/5v rails and what power they can deliver, usually printed on the side of the PSU. In this example, assuming the OP's PSU were 80+ Gold rated and on 115V power, it would pull around 203-204W from the wall to deliver its rated 180W to the PC at 87% efficiency. 
Also completely different, you have to look at reviews for specific units to see if they're built properly or have major issues when getting close to their rated limit. 
I believe that still is a standard, looks like TFX, it's basically only used in these funky OEM PCs. The real compatibility issue comes down to the connectors, sometimes the motherboards use a weird connector for mobo or CPU power, though for common OEMs like HP you can usually find adapters on eBay for a few bucks. That would be why OP couldn't find an affordable replacement, decent TFX units are obnoxiously expensive, especially if you want anything over 250-300W.

Where'd you get that idea? It's equal to/slight improvement over a 3090 at a lower price than they can be had for (AFAIK most are still around $1000 or above when bought new). While pulling less power. 
Yeah I think people aren't reading the price you got it for. At that price it's a solid card given the performance. 

This PC does not use a standard form factor power supply: https://www.microcenter.com/product/626911/hp-m01-f0020-desktop-computer-(refurbished)

Thanks 

oh well you see I'm a person who can decide what I think without some youtube personality whos paid to sell stuff dictating my choices.

Seeing as the question was asked if it was worth it , and I think it's not , that's how i answered it. This doesn't entirely matter as the OP is also a 100% free will individual and can decide what to do based on any number of factors so what I think shouldn't bother you in the slightest.

I think I will put my 3080 in my 7700x PC. Maybe I will get the performance boost I need with a better CPU. I have been assuming a 5600 would be plenty for 3080 but maybe I am wrong. I really like using my 7700x for rendering video, if I put it in my gaming PC then I won't be able to use it for video because the overclock will be way less efficient and my gaming computer get rebooted much more often because I do a lot of things on it. Also, I don't want to cancel a 3-6 hour video render because I want to play a game, so it really does need to be dedicated to gaming or productivity it can't do both. Maybe I can use Ryzen Master to change my OC on the fly if I know I am not going to be using it for a while. If this doesn't make much difference then I will go pick up the new card.

At the end of the PCIe slot, there is a locking tab

The thing is you can't wear headphones and helmets together, earphones maybe.

It didn't shut down because the pc was using less power... Ty for the reply!

Where'd you get that idea? It's equal to/slight improvement over a 3090 at a lower price than they can be had for (AFAIK most are still around $1000 or above when bought new). While pulling less power. 
Yeah I think people aren't reading the price you got it for. At that price it's a solid card given the performance. 

You're looking at the CPU-Z readout for the specs of the DIMMs, I believe the "Memory" tab is the one you want, not SPD. RAM should be running at ~1800Mhz there if it's working right. 

Great to hear, thanks for your help! 

This card catches a lot of crap because of it's price to performance,vs previous cards in it's "class" if class or tier is even valid at this point, and general Nvidia shifty shady business practices,I mean atleast a couple people who are salty on this one are still sore from paying near $2k for a 3060ti mid pandemic 😆 in hindsight I wish I sold my card in the middle of that messy year, shit I wish I waited to sell my old rx580 8G, I sold it three months before the crypto boom for $120...later I saw the same card sold on eBay second hand for $500, it was bad, I'd say look at it this way realistically for $755 can you legitimately get a NEW card that's better than this one? Not 1% - 5% in synthetic, 15%+ real world better? If not keep this one 

I am new here so I apologize if this is not in the correct place. 
 
9to5mac posted an article last week on an issue I’ve been experiencing since updating to iOS 16. I am following up with my local Apple Store. If that does not yield results I intend to open a case with my connections at Apple Enterprise support for a statement. I have an account through my work in IT. I’m not completely clear yet on if this is a choice by the Apple team or the streaming service providers.
 
source article: https://9to5mac.com/2023/01/04/ios-16-break-drm-content-hdmi/amp/
 
The Core Issue:
For communities like mine the wait time for Starlink is almost a year, and local satellite providers charge hundreds of dollars for internet service speeds most consumers would consider unacceptable for a phone plan 10 years ago. This puts families in a rough spot where they need to consider re-subscribing to traditional satellite television or simply unsubscribing from all major streaming services. Running DSL to our property is out of the budget(forget about fiber). This is before we even consider the number of people living in temporary accommodations like RVs or campers. I have not seen any acknowledgment from apple regarding the issue since the forums first began reporting on it in October. 
Furthermore, they continue to sell the dongle on the Apple Store without any notice to consumers that the product allegedly no longer supports major streaming services. I have seen several instances where forum users report buying multiple dongles($50/each) under the assumption that they a
have a defective unit. I have seen no statements from major streaming service providers regarding changes to their DRM features
 
 
Background:
My family lives in a rural area and cut the cord 2 years ago. If you are wondering how rural, I spent $400 on a yagi antenna setup just to get decent cell service inside the house. Everyone has been using Apple’s official AV Adapter to play video over HDMI from iPhone to the TV. We recently updated to iOS 16 and noticed that we could no longer play Prime Video and some Netflix content. The phone screen mirrors just fine, we can browse the catalog without issue, but when launching DRM protected media it goes to a black screen on the TV. Hulu was especially strange because instead of a black screen we get an exaggerated hitching effect where the video/sound plays for a few frames, hangs, plays a few frames, hangs, etc. content cannot be consumed. 
 
I have tested on multiple phones and dongles, and can confirm the issue is only present on devices running iOS 16 or later. 

The Devil’s Advocate:
Needs change with time and I understand that external HDMI devices are a major source of copyright violation and piracy. Businesses are well in their rights to sunset compatibility and features at their leisure. However, it is a mark of poor customer service and customer negligence to sunset a major feature of an officially supported product without informing the consumers of the change, even after the fact. This may be the result of poor communication between vendors, poor product management, or a sign that apple does not care about peripherals in the time between the factories and the landfills. 
 
The solution:
I’ll continue working on my end for a statement from Apple support on the adapter issues. This issue could be quickly resolved by Apple and the service vendors with a public statement regarding the DRM changes and a very visible note on the AV adapter website/box stating that it will not work for most major streaming services. 

You could also look for doing a diy setup and selling the t5610. This stuff has gotten really really cheap.
 
Your idea of psu upgrade does work as long as you also change the distribution plate. Any reason for a tesla k80? Whats it supposed to do?