Zando_

Max-Q/Max-P branding was simply abandoned, somewhat in favor of power target
https://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-RTX-30-Ampere-Mobile-will-no-longer-offer-Max-Q-or-Max-P-branding-OEMs-free-to-decide-TGP-and-Max-Q-features-to-implement.515922.0.html
 
As usual you need to read reviews for the products you're interested in.

No, laptops give wildly varying amounts of performance, based on how much wattage the components are allotted by the manufacturer. I'd recommend you to look up reviews and see which laptops come close to their desktop counterparts if you need performance on the go.
Another option would be an ITX build, if you only need to move the computer between places that have a monitor and desk.

Cost.
 
Apple kinda enforces dark mode. On android its a do whatever you like

Tired so this is going to be quite the rambly post. My TFX PSU arrived, literally the cheapest unit I could find with an 8-pin EPS (an old 300W 80+ Bronze Silverstone unit), so I got to mostly finish a project I've been meaning to do for a while:
 

 
X99 Micro 2 with an i7 6950X, cooled by an NH-L12S with a 92mm fan zip tied to the underside as a cheapskate's L12 Ghost Edition, 80mm intake and exhaust, WX-2100 for video out. Has the 256GB 960 Evo you can see there, and a 120GB TC Sunbow SSD in the 3.5" slot that's under the ODD because I had it lying around. It's using a 2x 2.5" to 3.5" adapter from IcyDock so I can add a 2nd 2.5" drive later if I want. ODD is a Lite-On unit I got back when I was looking for drives to rip CDs, according to some chart assembled by audiophiles it was like 1% more accurate than most other drives or something at ripping music from CDs, and I wanted to turn the albums I own into FLACs for my iPod Classic. Can't find my low profile PCIe bracket for the WX 2100 so that's currently held in with a ziptie, I have a new bracket on the way as they're only ~$7 shipped.
 

 
From the outside, aside from the 2 small nubs from the zip ties holding in the exhaust fan, it just looks like a worn old Vista PC (Chassis is a Dell Inspiron 530S from 2007). That front I/O works too, the front panel header for power button/LEDs are a single block, but use the same pinout as the standard split ones normal cases use, so no issues there. The USB and audio are just normal connectors. Seems basically inaudible so far too, which is rather nice.
 
And RAM because it's EVGA branded and therefore magically better than any other 4x4GB kit of 2800Mhz DDR4. I'm not sure why they sold RAM, it seems to only be early DDR4 (as I haven't seen a more modern speed kit), and I think there were some DDR3 kits as well.
 

 
I still have my 1000W G3 so I'll get... probably my X79 board (an EVGA Dark with a 4930K) up and running again, as my X58 board is XL-ATX and my main rig has stolen the Corsair 750D I got for that purpose. If I end up having the time/energy I need to do a CPU swap on my Mac Pro 1,1 as well. That's also Intel HEDT, an old set of LGA... 771 Xeons I believe. Currently a pair of dual cores, I have a set of quad cores to swap in, so it'll be at 8c/8t, 32GB RAM, and an HD 4870 512MB, not bad for a machine from 2006. EFI flashed to a 2,1 so it will run El Capitan which is mostly usable still, though I should see how running Linux or Windows on it goes.

AIO? Like, you salvaged the rad off one? 
Dump it, go to the nearest supermarket and get distilled water, use that. 
Short term just distilled will be fine, if it's an only copper and nickel loop just a basic biocide to keep things from growing should be good. 
I'm lazy, I buy EK's Cryofuel Clear premix in 1L bottles and just use that. Haven't had any issues with it. 

My god that's delicious 

Rather late with this one, but internals pic of my latest configuration:

 
Finally got a pic as I was adding in the 140mm exhaust fan, and an 80mm intake under the GPU to try and bring in a little more fresh air, has so far kept it from going into the 80s like it was. The ARC cards are usually cool running, but the main intake is filtered through that 60mm front rad so there wasn't any fresh air for the poor GPU. Also upped the fan speeds overall which I think helped a bit as well. 

Your system is compatible with WIndows 11.
 
Possible issues:
CSM is enabled in your UEFI, make sure it is disabled (note: if the setting is wrong, it is expected that the system will fail to boot or find Windows. The drive needs to be formatted and re-installed Windows (you can perform the format from Windows setup. All data will be lost, backup your stuff first). UEFI mode is disabled (this option might not exist. if it does not, you are good, assume it is enabled) TPM was disabled, it needs to be enabled (look for: firmware TPM or fTPM). SecureBoot was disabled, it needs to be enabled.

on some boards TPM isn't enabled by default, you'd have to look through your BIOS for TPM/PTT or whatever your vendor decided to call that feature, and enable it. 

Agree with it being a waste of space. They say it's supposed to help with readability, but I think they're misunderstanding who actually uses wikipedia. I like having all the information possible in front of my eyeballs vs having to scroll for miles. 

Rather late with this one, but internals pic of my latest configuration:

 
Finally got a pic as I was adding in the 140mm exhaust fan, and an 80mm intake under the GPU to try and bring in a little more fresh air, has so far kept it from going into the 80s like it was. The ARC cards are usually cool running, but the main intake is filtered through that 60mm front rad so there wasn't any fresh air for the poor GPU. Also upped the fan speeds overall which I think helped a bit as well. 

Rather late with this one, but internals pic of my latest configuration:

 
Finally got a pic as I was adding in the 140mm exhaust fan, and an 80mm intake under the GPU to try and bring in a little more fresh air, has so far kept it from going into the 80s like it was. The ARC cards are usually cool running, but the main intake is filtered through that 60mm front rad so there wasn't any fresh air for the poor GPU. Also upped the fan speeds overall which I think helped a bit as well. 

Rather late with this one, but internals pic of my latest configuration:

 
Finally got a pic as I was adding in the 140mm exhaust fan, and an 80mm intake under the GPU to try and bring in a little more fresh air, has so far kept it from going into the 80s like it was. The ARC cards are usually cool running, but the main intake is filtered through that 60mm front rad so there wasn't any fresh air for the poor GPU. Also upped the fan speeds overall which I think helped a bit as well. 

Agree with it being a waste of space. They say it's supposed to help with readability, but I think they're misunderstanding who actually uses wikipedia. I like having all the information possible in front of my eyeballs vs having to scroll for miles. 

Agree with it being a waste of space. They say it's supposed to help with readability, but I think they're misunderstanding who actually uses wikipedia. I like having all the information possible in front of my eyeballs vs having to scroll for miles. 

Lost my crystal ball a while ago. The GTX 1080 supports DirectX 12 feature level 12_1, so until features from 12_2 (marketed as DirectX 12 Ultimate) become required, it should be fine:

 
As the others have pointed out, you can probably find newer hardware at a similar price, and that will last a lot longer due to supporting more DirectX features (DX still being the most common API for games to use, I'm not sure if Vulkan has similar hardware requirements or just works with everything).

Techpowerup on their site does a pretty good job. Also third party reviews from YouTube videos such as from LTT, GamersNexus, Hardware Unboxed, and JayzTwoCents just to name a few. 

Yes, Userbenchmark is biased towards Intel- Always has and always will. 

Rather late with this one, but internals pic of my latest configuration:

 
Finally got a pic as I was adding in the 140mm exhaust fan, and an 80mm intake under the GPU to try and bring in a little more fresh air, has so far kept it from going into the 80s like it was. The ARC cards are usually cool running, but the main intake is filtered through that 60mm front rad so there wasn't any fresh air for the poor GPU. Also upped the fan speeds overall which I think helped a bit as well. 

If you think you'll upgrade the rest of the rig soonish, get the 980 Pro. It'll run at 3.0 speeds now, when you upgrade to a modern platform you'll get 4.0 and thus the full speed out of the drive. Otherwise get the 970 Pro, assuming it's cheaper. 

If you think you'll upgrade the rest of the rig soonish, get the 980 Pro. It'll run at 3.0 speeds now, when you upgrade to a modern platform you'll get 4.0 and thus the full speed out of the drive. Otherwise get the 970 Pro, assuming it's cheaper. 

If you think you'll upgrade the rest of the rig soonish, get the 980 Pro. It'll run at 3.0 speeds now, when you upgrade to a modern platform you'll get 4.0 and thus the full speed out of the drive. Otherwise get the 970 Pro, assuming it's cheaper. 

Looks like the 4090 is a decent chunk faster, if the $300 more isn't an issue I'd go for that. Though you likely would want a higher wattage unit, IIRC power virus loads (like Furmark) can get the 4090 to chug nigh on 600W. Amazon's New World title famously killed a 3090 or two by accidentally running a power virus workload, so I would want the power headroom in case you run across a similar software oopsie. If you're sure you'll avoid that, or don't mind the system cutting off if it trips power protections, then 850W should be fine.

It was relieving, but still very glanced over. Not even a link to the pinned thread in the description. No mention of F@H helping with medical research. No mention of where to get the software.
For those that are interested, team number is 223518. You set your team under the Identity settings. Passkeys make a huge difference in PPD gained.
 
I don't have electric heat. Propane burning furnace, wood stove and a diesel stove. With my electricity rates, it's cheaper to run F@H in the side of the house that has a lot of windows and loses a lot of the house's heat in the winter than to burn the extra propane. 

The titular "iPod", called Classics now as the last generation was actually named that, and it differentiates them from the iPod Touch and Nano series. These:
I have that 6th gen (though its HDD has since kablooied and I haven't bothered to fix it yet) and a 5th gen, run them with Rockbox (custom firmware for these and some other MP3 players). Nice for when I just want an music player that does that one thing: play music. Rockbox does include the obligatory DOOM port if you want to try other things though 😂.