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Zando_

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Everything posted by Zando_

  1. If the fan/radiator combo ends up not clearing the motherboard, you can get slimmer fans. Noctua and a couple other companies make 15mm fans which will knock 10mm off the thickness (assuming standard 25mm fans), bringing you down to ~53mm, about the same thickness as a more standard AIO with a 25mm rad + 25mm fans.
  2. No problem! Also remember that you can get slimmer fans if needed, there's a bunch of options to make a radiator fit where it's not "supposed" to.
  3. Provided it's long enough lengthwise, and the rad/fan combo isn't tall enough to have clearance issues with the motherboard, then yeah top mount should be fine too. Cases usually need to be surprisingly wide or have a very tall top section - or both - to get a rad/fan combo to clear standard RAM modules. Good news though, that case does seem to have a lot of room in the top even with a motherboard installed: You'll need ~ 63mm of clearance for a 38mm rad + standard 25mm fans, give or take a couple mm, from eyeballing it there does seem to be enough space.
  4. Hmmmm... would depend on the tolerances for the case then. The front of the PSU basement does have a cutout for radiators: But the sides of said cutout are quite close to the 140mm mounting holes (the outer set of mounting holes/slots, those stock fans are 120s). Radiators are often a couple mm wider than the fans too, and it looks like 140mm fans themselves would barely clear it. You'd have to try and see I guess, if there's enough of a gap it should fit. It may not be deep enough for the rad + fans, but you can mount the rad on the inside of the case, then put the fans on the outside (where the stock fans are placed) and run the screws through fan - case - rad to mount it, that's how I have the front fans/radiator mounted in my custom loop. There's nothing in the top of the case that would cause clearance issues for the tubes: So that PSU shroud cutout seems like the only possible clearance issue. Worst case, if you don't care about the warranty, you can just get some tin snips from a hardware store and cut it out further to clear, then put electrician's tape over the edge to keep from cutting yourself on it when you work on your PC.
  5. ^^^ I'd say most of the time they are longer than 420mm, as they have to fit the inlet/outlet holes somewhere, usually on the end of the radiator, so adding another ~25mm or so to the length. Yeah, most cases do not have 140mm fans mounted flush on the top and bottom of the case, there's usually some clearance so you could fit a taller radiator in there. As you noted the thickness is more of a concern for most cases. Not super thick for a watercooling rad. Just thicker than most other AIOs. Usually they use a 25-30mm rad (30mm is a pretty standard slim rad thickness), Arctic uses 38mm radiators. There's also 40, 45, and 60mm as other pretty standard sizes. Apparently Alphacool makes/made ones up to 85mm thick. And on the other end XSPC makes a 20.5mm radiator.
  6. Simplest/Cheapest option first, then try others. In this case, removing the GPU overclock is the simplest and cheapest step, VRAM instability often causes this sort of artifacting so it's a no-brainer.
  7. Be a consistent and reasonable/level-headed member of the community for multiple years and eventually you may get asked to join the mod team if they need a new member.
  8. ^^ I've done the box method, dropped it once, bent the I/O section on the motherboard and the ethernet port never worked consistently afterwards, often had to uninstall/reinstall the drivers from Device Manager. Annoying on a basic Intel H something board for a sandy bridge Pentium, would be a lot more awful to have a single "elbow incident" and watch your ~1000+ euro mobo/ram/cpu/gpu combo fly off the desk and then looney-tunes anvil itself by pulling the PSU down after it.
  9. ^^ Max DIMMs per channel + high density + high speed = really hard on the IMC, not guaranteed to run it successfully. I'd just keep it at 3400 and tighten up the timings as much as possible if you're worried about performance. Realistically it won't make much difference, and if you're doing non-gaming tasks then stability is king, so it's likely best to leave the timings stock and just pull the speed down to 3400.
  10. ^^^ It looks very Fractal from what I can see, but Corsair makes some similar budget cases, and I believe old Phanteks case are similar as well (their new budget cases are stamped/cut differently from Fractal so the steel looks a little different).
  11. That second photo is the HDD bay... there's slide-in plastic drive caddies that go in there, both my Corsair and Phanteks cases have used similar. Each OEM uses their own slightly different one, but I believe they're pretty standard between an OEM's own cases. If you can find the brand on the case anywhere, should be able to track down one of the drive caddies.
  12. Hmmm. I've found that even OEM cases from HP/Dell typically have a spot to attach a 3.5" HDD. Do you have a photo of the interior of the case?
  13. I wouldn't advise buying an unknown brand cheap cable for any GPU, especially one this expensive. Get a replacement from Corsair directly or a reputable aftermarket company. Corsair also has several types of cables depending on PSU generation, so "for corsair" without listing models doesn't fill me with confidence.
  14. Just remember that RAW is what it says it is, it's the raw data dumped from the image sensor with 0 processing. A movie in RAW would look like garbage, the films you actually watch have had a bunch of color grading done to make them look... whatever is "good" for the aesthetic the director was going for, be that stylized or realistic. Here's an example from Adobe of a RAW vs JPEG (automatically processed by the camera) image: That aside, the tech does seem really cool. As others have said, I don't know that it'll take off though. There's other reasons companies prefer digital over physical (lower overhead cost, executive paranoia about "ooh scary piracy", etc) that'll hamper their use, especially for consumers.
  15. My grandfather has Parkinson's and is quite sure it has something to do with the 30 years he spent as a plumber working with all sorts of lead, so not a great metric. It won't straight up kill you but it can make you more likely to just suddenly degenerate into a shell of your former self when you get older. Study here, there's some newer ones as well.
  16. An 8-pin PCIe and 6+2-pin PCIe are the exact same cable, they just split 2 pins off for those who have a GPU that takes a single 6 or an 8+6. An 8-pin EPS is a different cable, but won't fit unless you have some impressive strength and brute force it (as they are keyed differently), so no worries about confusing cables. You should be good with the dual 6+2 cable you have now + another 8-pin.
  17. 7900XTX seems to peak at ~365W or so, so even if OCed likely not breaking 400W. Your CPU and the rest of the build won't pull 350W unless you have 50 case fans or something. Should be good. Buy new cables. Corsair should sell replacements, Cablemod also makes aftermarket cables if you want them in a different color.
  18. Garage with the door open should be good. The random breeze outside could make it harder to avoid the solder/flux fumes. Like when you sit at a fire and the wind decides to keep putting the smoke in your face no matter where you move.
  19. Yes. No. The 1080 has no issue with x8: So the 1060 3GB would be fine.
  20. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. When you run out of VRAM it'll overflow to system RAM which is ~10x slower usually, so games will choke. Whereas if you have too much VRAM.... nothing happens, the game just won't use it all. So like @BiG StroOnZ said, if you can get the better card then do so.
  21. The purple artifacts from a failing GPU or failing/unstable VRAM (I've gotten these when pushing OCs too far, they went away when I pulled clocks back) will be flashing squares (usually green and other colors as well) rippling across your screen, they're won't just turn an in-game light purple. It's either meant to be purple like that or the game itself has derped out over that one light. Here's an example of artifacting I grabbed off google:
  22. Yep, the 270X is the main thing holding it back. I ran my 4930K (6c version of the 4820K) at 4.7GHz with my 1660 Ti without issue. Especially if you're like me and play at 60Hz, these old CPUs can remain usable for quite a while. At stock clocks you may have some issues with more demanding games, but these Ivy Bridge chips pretty much all do 4.5GHz or higher and are easy to cool (I ran mine on a 280mm AIO and I don't recall it ever breaking into the 80s so there was still thermal headroom left). If you're on a super tight budget then OC the CPU and try to snag a newer GPU. Otherwise as @RONOTHAN## said, you can probably get a good price for that board if you're willing to wait a bit (they don't sell super quickly as only folks like me who like this old stuff buy 'em). I got my EVGA X79 Dark, 4930K, and 16GB Vengeance RAM for $300 shipped back in 2019. ASUS Rampage boards went for a bit more at the time. I don't know if their value has dropped much... from a quick look on ebay they go for anywhere from $83 - $270 for the board alone, most look to be around $120-170.
  23. Money. For online games, a bunch of real players, but not the full peak player count, would definitely help with stress testing, and you piss less people off if your services fail. But you can do the same with an open beta so it's not an argument for the preorder early access thing.
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