Newbie0

sudo gedit /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/20-amdgpu.conf
Section "Device" Identifier "AMD" Driver "amdgpu" Option "VariableRefresh" "true" EndSection save and reboot
 
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/AMDGPU#Xorg_configuration
 
if /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/ doesnt exist then do sudo mkdir /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/

I disabled iommu in my motherboards bios and the issue was solved

That's no problem whatsoever if you don't buy 30°C shit.

I would imagine there should be an option to select 5.1 in the audio settings and disable the middle speaker. This will push the center stuff out to the fronts so you can keep the dedicated sub. Should work no problem.

First of all, new CM V-series are meh. Second, be quiet! unit are multi-rail which is a plus (especially with multi-GPU setups). Other than that, they're pretty much identical when it comes to performance and quality, so maybe be quiet! SP11 for multi-rail then, although it has 5y warranty so if that matters for you i'd probably suggest Corsair RMx then.

Quiet is not my priority. So choosing a better quality psu(with higher noise) wouldn’t be a issue for me.
 
thanks a lot for your suggestion. I’ll surely keep this in my mind when making my final decisions. 
 
Thanks for your suggestion that’s one I’m going for. 
 
I’ve to add like 30$
 
The rails got heated a lot being a Faulty PSU
 
Sadly I just noticed after @Juularpointed it out that it only has a 5 year warranty. So Maybe won’t be going for it??
 
Thanks for pointing out the fact that it only has 5 year warranty. 

Edited.?

Hi all,
It’s been a few years since I completed my build.  But sadly I had to RMA my V750(burnt cables). So now I’ve to choose a new one. 
 
So far I’ve narrowed down my choices to 4 PSUs. 
 
SEASONIC PX 750
Be-Quiet Straight Power 11(5 year warranty)
Corsair RM750x
CM V750(2019)
 
In these PSUs (almost) all of them has a 10 year warranty. One of them is even Platinum PSU(Seasonic). 
 
I’ve a bit experience about CM support & they were great for me. I don’t know about others though. 
 
[My system will be running for around 18/7 for heavy gaming.]
So which one should I choose from these?
 
Thanks all. 
 
Edit:
System specs:
R5 1600x
2x Sapphire Nitro+ RX 580 4gb
MSI Tomahawk B350
WD Green 128gb SSD
Toshiba 1 TB HDD
Toshiba 500GB HDD

WD no longer makes Green HDDs. Supposedly, the 5400rpm Blues were to be essentially rebadged Greens but the new Blues have been getting a lot of user reviews complaing of early failures.

I never stray from seagate or WD

if your power supply is modular, then you will need the right cable that go with your power supply or one that you know the wiring is compatible (probably a lot of research to be sure). as if you use just any cable that didn't come with you PSU, chances are that the wiring in it and some electrical components that may be inside the cables will be incompatible and will damage your hardware.
 
As for the gpu, i would advise always plugging them with the required amount of pins (if it's 14 go for 14 in the proper configuration). It might be possible in some cases to go with less but i am not well informed on the matter, so if this is what you want to do then you will once again need to do some research on your particular graphics card model.

You wouldn't want to buy a third party cable, but are you sure they don't offer warranty service?

If you just stripped the wire a bit so long as you cover it up you're probably fine using the 8 pin connectors
 
you can't damage your GPU by only putting 6 pins in, it might work, just don't do any extreme overclocking, an RX 580 doesn't even need all of those connectors.

it should be fine, put some electrical tape on it.
 
the only way it ''could'' be problematic is if there was cut metal wires inside the cable (as you can see the wire is made of many smaller ones) If too much of them are cut then the current will suffer a greater resistance going trough the cable and generate more heat thus making the remaining metal wires potentially melt. (i am not aware of the potential effects of this issue on the hardware being powered trough this cable).
 
So yeah, if only the rubber insulating is damaged, put some isolating tape on that and call it a day.

a pcie card won't work in a pci slot, don't try to flip it, it doesn't work that way.
 
Why not use the pcie 16x slot under that 1x?
 
 

No. PCIe and PCI aren't intechangeable.

You can put it in the PCIe x16 slot (circled green)

is it possible?
yes. (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158190)
 
is it advisable?
no.
 
the x16 suggestion above is the way to go imo

Better how?
No what he's saying is that the only way to clear out static on the audio, if this is the particular issue, is to remove the audio processing from the case. As with a sound card, it's still in that EMI environment. Additionally, if you look at EMC design, placing an object in parallel to a large source of disturbance actually compounds the issue, especially if it's completely within the circuitloop of that device. 

The biggest sources of EMI are the GPU's and their PCB's these days, placing a soundcard directly in it's wake would be worse than the onboard sound which is perpendicular to it's circuitloop and outside of it as well.
 
Parts have changed, switching frequencies have changed, component density has changed. I could clearly hear EMI coming from the speakers when I moved my perhipherals, so I had to move my audio outside of the machine. Granted, it's an ITX.

Also, designing for EMC is not top priority anymore for all AIB's, so this test can be succesful or a failure based on the particular parts. A test on one system is not a conclusive test.

Human has only two ears.
Any more channels in headphones is marketing BS for selling even cheaper Chinese garbage.
 
Hearing in "3D" is based of head and outer ears causing direction dependant changes to signal received by ears from sound source.
Besides recording with mics in ears of dummy head, those binaural cues can be simulated mathematically.
Algorithm used by X-Fi pretty much kills bass immersion, but emphasizes foot steps and such.
Only thing which is needed after that is accurate enough reproduction of signal.
Which is something not aimed by gaming trinkets.
 
If you have quiet environment something like ATH-AD500 or Sennheiser HD559 should do well.
 
 
 
Need for external fashion "DAC" is same marketing snake oil BS than than those "7.1" headsets.
http://archimago.blogspot.com/2017/04/retro-measure-2002-lynx-l22-pci-audio.html

Dedicated sound card will always give bether sound quality.. (if u have the correct drivers for it)
intigraded sound is good for most of every day activitys

setx GPU_MAX_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 setx GPU_USE_SYNC_OBJECTS 1 setx GPU_MAX_HEAP_SIZE 100 setx GPU_SINGLE_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 -NsGpuCNMiner.exe -xpool stratum+tcp://cryptonightv7.in.nicehash.com:3363 -xwal 36CA3DfrckaspEemD8wFGtpXFRV3jofECu.YOUR_PAYMENT_ID.rapperrahat2003@gmail.com -xpsw x -pow7 1 -wd 1 -retrydelay 3 -dbg -1 -tt 80 -ttli 85 -tstop 87 -r 60 This is incorrect being the NsGpuCNMiner.exe call is on the same line as the setx as well as having a hyphen in front.
 
Proper:
setx GPU_MAX_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 setx GPU_USE_SYNC_OBJECTS 1 setx GPU_MAX_HEAP_SIZE 100 setx GPU_SINGLE_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 NsGpuCNMiner.exe -xpool stratum+tcp://cryptonightv7.in.nicehash.com:3363 -xwal 36CA3DfrckaspEemD8wFGtpXFRV3jofECu.YOUR_PAYMENT_ID.rapperrahat2003@gmail.com -xpsw x -pow7 1 -wd 1 -retrydelay 3 -dbg -1 -tt 80 -ttli 85 -tstop 87 -r 60 Also where are you getting that setup and pool info? The -xwal portion is weird and I would like to reference the page you found it on.

setx GPU_MAX_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 setx GPU_USE_SYNC_OBJECTS 1 setx GPU_MAX_HEAP_SIZE 100 setx GPU_SINGLE_ALLOC_PERCENT 100 I'm assuming you meant Windows since you mentioned a batch file.
 
EDIT: Those are the Windows commands so put that above the claymore line.

Loosen some timings a bit (larger numbers), you are not stable with what you have.
 
Use MemTest86+ to test memory.  Its a self booting tool that works outside of an OS, you need a USB memory stick to use it.

User the built in AXMP profile instead of doing it manually. Probably go for profile 2  That'll save you the trouble if BSOD.

What does AXMP take you to?
 
If that is an MSI board, it should have an application for Try It or something like that. You put in the 3200 MHz and it'll try to get you stabilized settings.
 
Otherwise, get it to 3200 MHz with appropriate voltage without touching timings and see if that is stable. Then you can start playing with voltage and timings from there. Butt if it isn't stable at 3200 and the required voltage, it won't be stable with anything else until that initial setup is resolved.
 

You can, or manually see to 3200 with recommended voltage. And see if that's stable, if so, then start tightening the timings slowly until you see a fail.