HeyIAmInfinity

I have used it for years. I have used both the Android and iOS app and they work well. I have it installed both on my desktop PC via Chrome and as a desktop app on my MacBook Pro. Works well enough. 
 
Password managers help you come up with more secure and harder passwords. They also encrypt their data bases. Plus they can auto fill your passwords. 

No issues, just figured I'd rather have my own data.

I've used it for many years but switched about a year ago to using KeepassXC with my own DB and sync system that doesn't use a 3rd party cloud.
 
Better use a more convenient to type master PW but have 2FA on. 

My only issue is with Android app. And it has couple of them. One is that it doesn't remember my master pw. Yes, I'm aware that its bad to keep it always logged in. But having hard pw as master + constant need for entering it gets annoying quickly. Another issue is with it is that it doesn't seem to remember which app I black list (apps where I don't want it to popup). Which also is annoying when accessing my band details on mobile. Since our online banking system uses regenerating codes.
 
Other than that, it used to be paid service on mobiles. Now its free on all devices, and I don't really know what value getting paid version would even bring. Works on all browsers and OS' I've used for the past 10+ years.

Logging in to the account fixed this for me. I had changed password too.

Out of curiosity, how MANY photos is 10TB?  And of what?  I do not do pics for pics sake, like the lady who took a picture of her meal at the restaurant behind me yesterday, so I really have no idea.
 
I can understand pics of kids and what not for first day of school, etc.  But 10TB of pics is literally hundreds of thousands of pics?  How?

You think those drives will still work in 10 years, or be relevant?  What do you really need all that space for?
 
Well if you look at my rigs, I use 1TB SSD's or a 3TB HDD in the Plex.  4TB is outside my useful range so yes it's big.  I will probably buy one to add to the Plex if I get more movies or shows.  If it's not on Netflix or Amazon, I go get it.  *shrug*
 
I don't collect things. I DL what I want when I want it.  I don't form a library just to fill it out and "have" stuff.
 
Again, no idea what you need 60-80TB for but that's a LOT of room.  
 
 

I'd start looking at a 2nd PC for PLex.   I ran Plex off my main rig but game downloads, driver updates, etc had me restarting it much more often than was I wanted.
 
Sucks having to wait for a user to end their movie so you can restart for a driver update
 
So I would advocate a smaller, which in your case is larger than 99.9% of us who would see 4TB as fucking big.

There is only 1 Reason, to get the regular iPad (10.2"), over the Air 3:
 
You can't afford the Air 3.
 
 
It's A12 vs. A10. A huge performance difference. You won't notice it always, but a 2 year newer Chip WILL be supported longer, and will be more future proof. And, if you convert Videos, the additional Performance helps alot.
Display is better in 2 ways: Laminated, AND supports P3 color space.
7MP Front camera vs. 1.2MP.
 
 
iPad 2018 from March 2018 vs. iPad 2019 (10.2"):
Both support the A10. Disappointing for the new one to feature the same old Chip. But well.
It comes with a bigger screen, Smart connectors (not very usefull, since there are only 2 Keyboards for it. The completely overpriced  Apple keyboard, i would never recommend, and the Logitech Keyboard), and 3gb Ram over 2gb Ram. This alone is kinda worth going for the newer 10.2" iPad. More Ram = More updates in the Future.
 
 
 
Alternative to the Air 3: iPad Pro 10.5", you can find it quite cheap, sometimes cheaper than the Air 3.
It can do better:
- 120 Hz Display. Extremely nice for every single scrolling / swiping. I love it.
- Thinner
- MUCH better Rear Camera with OIS and Flash (for scanning Documents, etc)
- Real Stereo Speakers. If you watch videos alot, this will give you a much better User experience.
- 4GB Ram (instead of 3), that's a big difference.
 
It comes with an older A10X, but it's a "-X" Chip.
The A12 has around 20% higher CPU performance (i doubt you will ever notice a big difference there), but the A10X has 30-40% more GPU Performance than the A12 Chip.
So it's just a small Trade for much better Hardware.
 
Best points are the 4gb Ram, Stereo Speakers, and 120 Hz.
And i think, because it is a "Pro" (and not just a regular consumer model), and comes with more Ram, it will not get less Updates than the Air 3, despite beeing 2 years older.
 
 
I have the Pro 10.5" since 1 1/2 Years now. Mainly using it for browsing, Video streaming (youtube, Netflix, Browser Streams), and digital Note taking with Notability and GoodNotes 5.

It never Overheats. If you do demanding tasks, it can be a bit warmer, but it was always Very far from beeing "hot".

iPad air has A12
iPad as A10

Play again until ending E, you just played one third of the story.
I've already played some of those games, i think i'll try ABZU and maybe fez.
 
Thanks everyone
 
 
 

a piece of string

1. You should focus most on the average temperature under max loads. A single big spike can just be due to some heat transfer latency and shouldn't do much.
 
2. The cache speed just affects how quickly your CPU can read from the cache. You can overclock it a bit, but it won't make a massive difference to overall performance so feel free to just leave it where it is.
 
3. No, BCLK overclocking is a more difficult and more advanced version of overclocking. Stick to OCing the multiplier for now, it's not usually necessary to overclock the base clock. The base clock is related to other components too so can cause all sorts of problems.
 
4. You should usually tweak it manually, the motherboard will usually overestimate the voltage needed, resulting in higher temps than are necessary. For 4.9GHz, try starting around 1.27/1.28 volts, and increase by 0.01 if it crashes until you are stable.
 
5. It depends why you are overclocking it. If you just want better performance, you probably won't see a major difference by adding another 100 or 200MHz, but if you want to try and get it higher for fun then go for it.

Ok after a few test I managed to OC up to 5.1 but its not stable, 5.0 is almost stable, had 2 crashes out of 6 tries, there is something that i might need to tweek to stabilize that.
Now I rolled back to 4.9 as that is perfectly stable, i've encoutered an intresting fact.
I get lower temperatures (never above 80) if i set vcore to auto on mobo, this causes vcore to sometime skyrocket to 1.41x.
I would like to know if i should keep my 1.35 that actually uses only 1.29 max with higher temperatures, still below 90 max is 85.
Or if better temperature with higher vcore is better, with vcore fluctuating a lot.
Any suggestions?
 
Regarding the 5.0, I have read about LLC but I have not activated it, would that solve my issue?
 
@done12many2 thanks for the explanation of 3d mark, now i actually understand a few things better.

1:1 ratio is ideal in a prefect world, but if you can't get cache to run that fast, run it as fast as you can while remaining stable and without having to add additional Vcore.  Usually 4.5 to 4.8 depending on the cache quality will run well without additional Vcore.
 
 
Whatever makes you more comfortable.  A lot of folks determine the highest Vcore that they are able to cool and then adjust clockspeed.  While I don't do that myself, I understand the logic.
 
 
Fire Strike and Time Spy test CPU performance in addition to graphics performance.  Your CPU score is factored into the overall score.  Just because your score improved when you overclocked the CPU does not mean that your CPU was a "bottleneck" prior to you overclocking it.  If your graphics score didn't go up any substantial amount, you were more then likely NOT bottlenecking and the 200 pt increase that you observed was just an increase to your CPU score.
 
I run 2 x 1080 Ti cards in a SLI and a 7700k will not bottleneck them.
 
 
AIDA64 is one of the weaker stability tests that you can use, but if you are comfortable with it, that's really all that matters.