chiller15

I have just played through System Shock (2023) and while playing it, noticed that my Nvidia RTX 3080 FE fans were at pretty much 100% throughout the whole game, with some RPM variations. Playing through at 1440p all max settings, my GPU was at pretty much 99% utilisation throughout. While I understand that that sort of utilisation is going to produce all the heat and necessitate the GPU fans to kick in - it just didn't seem to match what I was visually seeing. I don't know enough about the remake of System Shock, is it a modern game made to look older as a design choice, or did they take an older game remaster it with new assets. The 3080 FE fans are known to be quite loud and annoying, but I was concered that if this is a lower performance game - am I suffering other issues that would explain the fan usage. I decided to run a TimeSpy Extreme benchmark run and got a score of 7133 overall, which is some 5% lower than the average score of this CPU/GPU combination at 7528 and some 18% lower than the best score (I know I don't have the other components or cooling to get near that). Graphics score: 8698 CPU score: 3532 PC specs: Asus TUF Z390M-PRO Gaming WIFI Intel Core i7-9700K @ 4.5GHz Corsair H115i Pro RGB 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666MHz (2x 8GB) Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 FE 256GB Samsung 970 Pro NVMe Corsair RM750X Gold 750W Results: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-9700K Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. TUF Z390M-PRO GAMING (WI-FI) (3dmark.com) CPU max frequency - 4653 MHz CPU average frequency - 4395 MHz CPU max temperature - Not reported CPU average temperature - 51C GPU max clock frequency - 1935 MHz GPU average frequency - 1766 MHz GPU max memory frequency - 1333 MHz GPU average memory frequency - 1333 MHz GPU max temperature - 69C (nice) GPU average temperature - 45C Even though my GPU is running at stock speeds, I don't understand why I'm 5% lower than the average score, if my thermals and frequencies all appear to be good enough. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I thought I'd rather post here and check, even if it is to give me some piece of mind.

I ended up getting the Razer Basilisk V3 Pro instead after being gifted an Amazon voucher that I could put towards it. It's about the same size and for me, a slightly better ergonomic fit with the thumb groove. It doesn't have the removeable weight that the Logitech does, but it has a bigger battery, a USB C charging portand what seems to be a better build quality. I am pleased with my purchase thus far.

I decided not to purchase and see if anything is announced at Computex this week. I'm not in an urgent rush for a replacement, not at least for the next few months anyway. I think I was leading with my wallet rather than my head when I made the post.

I want to replace my 24" Dell S2417DG with something newer, though I've recently been playing games connected to my LG C1 OLED and been spoilt by the brilliant image of OLED, with it's deep blacks and HDR. However, couch gaming doesn't offer my the same level of immersion that desk gaming does, even if I use my keyboard/mouse. Therefore I'd like to get the best of both worlds, having a somewhat HDR gaming experience on my desk. While I won't be playing at 4K anymore (I have a 3080, though likely won't be upgrading until the 50 series comes out), the Cooler Master Tempest GP27Q seems to tick all the right boxes, fast enough refresh rate, actual HDR with 576 full array local dimming, good colour accuracy and response times. It's also within my ~£500 price bracket I've allocated myself. However, a couple of things are bugging me and it's delayed me purchasing it so far: I know that the monitor has had bugs and firmware has fixed most of these. I've watched Hardware/Monitors Unboxed's videos, though I think another new firmware has been released since they released their updated video. Has anyone got any updates? What is the main competitor in terms of image quality/HDR and price? While 576 zones provides a true HDR experience, obiously more zones = better. However, I can't seem to find more information about upcoming higher refresh rate, high FALD zone count, 1440p monitors. A monitor is what tends to last the longest on my system, though I've never used any Cooler Master products and I don't know what their quality is like. Can anyone expand on their experience if they own this monitor, or other Cooler Master products? Does anyone know what Cooler Master's warranty experience is like? If I'm likely to have this monitor for at least the next five years, am I shooting myself in the foot by it only being 1440p? I probably have more questions, I just can't think of them at the moment.

I've got the RAM in slots A and C, which are the traditional dual channel configurations. Using one stick or no sticks at all doesn't change the behaviour. Both the CPU and RAM modules (CMK32GX5M2B5600C36) are listed as compatible products. Update: Using RAM slots A and B made it post after about 30-40 seconds. Update 2: Checking the manual states the recommended RAM slots used as B/D for dual channel and B for single. Using slots B/D allowed for a sucessful boot. Clearly this was a case of RTFM and my old knowledge of using slots A/C! Edit: Thanks for the assist @191x7

Thans, I found that in the manual minutes after posting, but was waiting until the process completed before posting! Sadly, flashing with the latest (non-beta) BIOS didn't work, I still have the same LEDs and no display.

They are definately the 7900X, not the 3D. The board does have a flash BIOS button above the rear IO, though I'm not sure how since I have no display output.

I'll start off this thread with the fact that I am an experienced IT techie...but that doesn't mean I haven't done something stupid or overlooked something! In my workplace, we have bought 2x systems for our professional workload: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI RAM: 23GB (2x 16GB) Corsair Vengeance 5600MHz CL36 Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 PSU: Montech 80+ Gold 650W Storage: 1TB Samsung 980 Pro with heatsink Both systems are experiencing the exact same issue - not posting, with the CPU LED red and the RAM LED amber on the motherboard (which means the board hasn't detected the CPU and RAM according to the manual). Troubleshooting steps I've performed: Removed all but the CPU, cooler, RAM and PSU Removed the RAM - no beeps to complain that RAM isn't installed Reseated the RAM Reseated the CPU Checked for damage in the LGA socket and also on the CPU itself Ensured that the CPU has enough thermal paste Used just the 8-pin power Used the 8+4 pin power I'm currently at a loss as to what the issue could be. I don't know if the CPU is receiving power or not and currently don't have another PSU to try.

Working in education, I'd love to buy and deploy these to students...however the easily removable modules (while excellent) would be a nightmare to keep on top of when students mess around and remove/steal them. It'd be great if there was an option to have the modules fitted internally and secured by a screwed on back plate. While not infallible, it'd keep the modularity aspect, so schools can choose their spec level and have a stock of spares or other modules for other educational requirements/scenarios.

Thanks for your reply. I'll have a look at the Razer line up. It's just annoying that I can't try them out before buying them.

I'm on my second G703 mouse now, after the first was replaced due to double clicking issues. The replacement has also developed the same issue, though I am now outside of the warranty period. From my understanding, the double-clicking issue is a predominant issue across most of Logitech's G range. It's gotten so bad now, that it's making me not want to use the computer because it's frustrating, so I'm now considering a replacement mouse.. The reasons I chose the G703 in the first place was for the size/shape, weight, responsiveness, relatively few buttons and the notched scroll wheel. I like the notched/tactile bumps of a scroll wheel and very much don't like the infinate scrolls of some other mice. I summary, I'm after: Wireless mouse with responsive connectivity for non-competitive gaming Similar size and weight to the G703 5 buttons (left, right, scroll, back and forward) - I am not into a mutli-function mouse with many re-programmable buttons, for both asthetic reasons and also mis-clicking on buttons I don't/won't use Notched scroll wheel From what I've gathered, Logitech's new G502 range don't have the doubel clicking issue and are also USB-C, but I don't like the multi-button design. Ideally, I'd like to try before I buy, but there's a lack of big-box stores that have even a handful of gaming mice these days (at least near me anyway). There's such a wealth of information about mice that it's almost overwhelming when trying to research and decide on a new mouse, especially when it's something you feel.

Thanks again, I'll look into those. What about having the headphones connected to the jack in the TV or controller? Would that be a significantly worse audio experience?

Thanks for the replies, I was thinking along the same lines, but my technical knowledge on the subject is quite limited and I've now got a lot more understanding. I've added an additional question into the original post, to question the front panel audio connector. So plugging the headphones into the speakers shouldn't particularly reduce the audio quality compared to directly into the motherboard? The speakers are on the crap end, but I rarely use them. Usually it's headphones or the TV's speakers. I simply can't afford at the moment to go all out on a nice audio setup...so I'm just trying to make best use with what I've already got at hand.

Browser, version and OS: Chrome 101.0.4951.54 - Windows 10 21H2 Steps to reproduce/what were you doing before it happened? Navigating my account settings and enabling backup codes for my account. What happened? Generated the backup codes, which showed in the box (and I can copy and paste). I pressed the print icon to print/save it as a PDF and the print preview shows no codes, just a blank page with the Home icon, LTT logo and menu button along the top of the page and the URL and page number at the bottom of the page. Saving the PDF and printing the document does not include the backup codes. What did you expect to happen? The PDF to contain the backup codes for saving elsewhere. Link to a page where it happened, if applicable: https://linustechtips.com/settings/account-security/?act=enable&type=backup_codes&new=1&csrfKey= I have omitted the key from the URL. Screenshots of the issue, if applicable: Any other relevant details: N/A If it's a cloudflare error, what was the ray ID from the bottom of the error page? N/A

I'm looking at my audio setup and I'm not sure I fully understand it fully to make a decision on things. I have an ASUS TUF Z390M-PRO Gaming WIFI and a pair of cheap Creative T10 2.0 speakers. When using headphones (Sennheiser HD 599 SE), I am plugging them into the headphone jack on the speakers. Am I right in thinking that the motherboard's rear IO is the built-in DAC and the speakers are an additional amplifier in that scenario? I don't get any nasty audio quality (at least to my ears) such as hisses and stuff from them, so I'm not sure if an external DAC is necessary? Or if I got one, I presume the perceived difference would be minimal to my non-audiophile ears? My other questions are regarding plugging the headphones into other peripherals: If I connect my PC to the TV (LG C1) over HDMI, which transmits the video and audio over HDMI...if I plug the headphones into the headphone jack on the TV...is that using the same DAC as the on-board audio, or does my TV deal with both the conversion and amplification then? I have the same question regarding plugging into my Xbox One controller via it's headphone jack, when I have that connected wirelessly via the Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows What about connecting via the front panel audio jack? Does that route through the same on-board DAC, or is that a separate, crappier thing? I hope that all makes sense?

I have recently purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD599 SE headphones, and they're great. When plugged into the jack of my Asus TUF Z390M-PRO GAMING (WIFI) motherboard, with an onboard Realtek S1200A soundcard, the audio levels are loud enough that maxing them out is uncomfortable. I was initially concerned that it wouldn't be able to drive the headphones and they'd be too quiet. I do have some questions though, as my knowledge in audio is quite limited: Does an add-in sound card or external AMP/DAC only increase audio levels, or does it also increase audio quality? If there is increased audio quality, would a non-audiophile (such as myself) be able to tell the difference in games? I have a very basic pair of Create T10 2.0 speakers on my desk, which have a headphone socket. Is this just a pass-through, or would it have some effect on the quality of audio? Also, since these speakers have separate volume controls, do they constitute as an AMP if headphones were plugged in? I purchased Dolby Atmos for headphones (it was on offer for <£5) - some external sound cards/DACs (like the EPOS GSX range) have additional 7.1 capabilities. How does this differ from Dolby Atmos? Can they be used together, or are they exclusive, where enabling 7.1 on a soundcard replaces the Dolby Atmos setting? I have a another pair of wireless Sennheiser Momentum 3 headphones, which can also be used wired. If I used them wired, do they pull their power from the sound card, or from the built in battery? I've noticed that the sound profiles are very, very different between the 599 and the Momentum 3 headphones, though I don't know exactly what contributes to this. Obviously one is open and one is closed, but the 599 sounds much bassier and more...I don't know, just more? Even spoken audio sounds more like someone talking close to a microphone, whereas the M3s sound more "natural". Surely there's more to it then just open/closed and more bass? I hope that all makes sense.

I never did make a decision on this and I'm revisiting it. Can anyone else help with recommendations?

Just in case anyone comes across this, I've managed to diagnose and resolve the issue in this instance. Dell, being Dell, have a proprietary SATA/power connector for the drive, so it has a proprietary connector > SATA adapter. You'd think that'd be the end of it, but this is Dell. This connector connects to a SATA daughter board, which then adapts a mSATA SSD. So the mSATA drive is adapted to SATA, which is then adapted to Dell's proprietary connector. If the mSATA drive is connected, or disconnected entirely, I was encountering this boot issue. If I connected another drive to it, I was able to get the Dell logo at POST. This is the first time I've come across a system not posting when no drive is connected.

Cheers. I did find that page and that's where I got the light/beep codes from. It doesn't work with an external monitor, I've updated my post to reflect this.

A friend has asked me to look at their Dell Latitude 5450 as it is not powering on. I've done some testing and found the following: With AC connected, the laptop powers on but does not display to the built-in display or external monitor. There are no beeps. The fan spins up briefly and then stops, though the laptop remains on, according to the power LED and the CPU heat pipe gets hot. When I press the power button again, the fan spins up faster than at power on, though only briefly as the machine shuts down. While powered on, the LEDs are lit in the following order: AC - solid, HDD - solid, battery - off, WiFi - off. Things I've tried: - No display when connected to an external monitor - Drain capacitors/reset BIOS/clear CMOS by disconnecting the battery, removing AC and holding the power button for 15 seconds - Disconnecting all internal devices; battery, SSD, WLAN, BT - Swap the RAM for a known working module - Tried the second RAM slot - Removed the RAM entirely and powered on (this causes the fan to power on longer, though it still stops shortly after) and the following LED lights are lit: AC - off, HDD - solid, battery - blinking, WiFi - blinking None of the above have fixed it, so the problem is elsewhere and I'm thinking it's a motherboard fault.

I'm after a good set of over-ear wireless headphones, which can work well for a variety of scenarios. These mainly include: 1) Playing solo FPS/RPG games on my PC (can be used wired or wirelessly) or on my TV in another room (must be wireless) 2) Listening to music on my Android phone via Bluetooth (AptX) 3) Watching films/TV on my TV via Bluetooth 4) ANC is preferable 5) Don't look like a gaming headset if wearing them in public 6) A built in microphone would be a plus, but I'm unlikely to use it much 7) Between £150-£200 I can't seem to find any that meet these requirements and don't break the bank. Most that I've researched are either gaming headsets, using 2.4GHz which doesn't work with my phone or TV, those with Bluetooth lack AptX, or the headset looks very gamery). Or they're standard headphones, but they also seem to lack one thing or another. I like the look of the Sennheiser Momentum 3s, however they're very expensive. Can anyone make any recommendations?

It was more a case of getting as much info before I made a purchase, such as does a £20 difference between the different versions of the H115i really make much of a difference? I decided to go with the 280mm Corsair H115i PRO RGB based on a decent price compared to other outlets (and it's not that much more expensive than the 240mm H100i), plus I preferred it's aesthetics over the other variants.

Bump: Does anyone else have any further input? Just want more info before I make a purchase.

As I care not for RGB, is there much of a difference between the performance of them?

Each end of the radiator has a little reservoir. From what I gathered, ideally you always want one part of that above the height of the pump. With that being said, it's also preferable to have the tubes at the bottom of the radiator, so the non-tube end/reservoir is at the bottom of the radiator. This means that bubbles get trapped in the top of the radiator and won't travel through the tubes to the pump, because bubbles go up and can't get to the tubes, since they're at the bottom. That's what I took away from it anyway.