Jump to content

Tannah

Member
  • Posts

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tannah

  1. That's most disappointing. If they are doing this purposely, they are leaving allot of business on the table for other to snap up. Back when I worked in as a tech in computer shops, the keyboards sales went like this: The first that sold out was your generic keyboards, as they were cheap, and they worked. The second were the keyboards that illuminated the legend on the keycaps, people who worked in low light environments loved these. They were a super easy sale. The third was a mishmash, Key pads and other random stuff, and keyboards that lite up like a Christmas tree around they keys. Where the lights were more for aesthetics, but really came off more looking cheap more than anything. They often ended up in the bargain bin, then what was left ether sat in the warehouse collecting dust, or being tossed into e-waste. /s/ If your keyboard is so bright than its overpowering your monitor, and blinding you. You must like a computers for the same reason people like lava lamps. /s/ In all seriousness, it sounds like your in a round about way telling me go just go get a gaming keyboard from Corsiar, Satek, or Razer, rather than get custom built keyboard.
  2. Looked at the Keychron 108 key Keyboards, they do look like a good keyboards, unfortunately I keep my office dimly lite. So I need something that shines though the keycap and accurately displays the legend on the key. I am unable to tell if the Keychron V6 actually lights up the key Legend, or just lights up the outline of the key? Which is unusual to me as the other gaming keyboards show what they look like in the dark as a selling feature?
  3. I've run into the dreaded inconstant key press problem on the G910, where when you hit some keys it will register between 0 and 4 key presses. The really weird thing is after I tear down the keyboard and clean it as best I can, a few days later the problem often often resolves it self for several weeks to several months. (It never resolves right after I clean it) I think its material or dust getting into the mechanical switch, unfortunately Logitech didn't make the Romer G mechanical keys easy to service, nor did they make them dust resistant. I am well outside the 1 year warranty for the G910. I quite like the G910 other than the mechanical switch problem. So I'm looking for a: Full sized mechanical keyboard that does not have clicky switches. Per Key RGB Layer Shine Through keycaps required. Must be able to see key legend clearly in the dark. Dedicated Media Controls Reasonable Quality Construction Wired USB n-key rollover (NKRO) I'd like to get a keyboard that has at-least 4 dedicated macro keys, but this is more a want than a need. I'd also like the software side of the keyboard to be decent, at-least as good as the current version of G Hub. I'm looking in the $150 to $200ish Canadian Dollar Range. Suggestions appreciated Thanks.
  4. Question for the community: In Windows 10, which provides a better experience and the best performance? Doing a proper backup of the user data and settings, and doing a clean/fresh install of 21H2 (the latest current version) of windows 10? Or alternatively updateing from Windows 10 19H2 using Windows update, which will do a in-place upgrade to 21H2? Or do both methods turn out the same, with in margin or error? I do have my preconceived notions, but I understand I may be biased. I attempted to search for information on this online, but most data seems horribly out of date, or just waffles around the question. If you know of reputable websites that contain this information could you add them to your reply's? (mods if perchance I posted this in the wrong place could you move to the appropriate area in the forum? Thank You.)
  5. Interesting article that show the dark side of TPM, and explains why Microsoft is trying to force it. Taken from article: "This article is an opinion held by a subset of members about the potential plan from Microsoft about their enforcement of a TPM to use Windows 11 and various features. This article will not go into great detail about all the good and bad of a TPM; there will be links at the end for you to continue your research, but it will go into the issues we see with enforcement." Windows 11: TPMs and Digital Sovereignty : https://secret.club/2021/06/28/windows11-tpms.html I would be curious about peoples thoughts after fully reading the article.
  6. Well Asus did note they tinkered with the memory timings. If you happy enough with it then great! If not try going back to 1202, as this sounds like a memory timing issue introduced by the newer Bios's. I've seen people complain about it on overclock.net As your not running a 5000 series CPU, the BIOS above 1202 aren't essential for you. It should not hurt anything to try. Just make sure that each time you flash the bios you load Optimized Defaults, this is supposed to clear incompatible settings. If you don't the old setting and old memory training, can persist causing headaches.
  7. Please read all before proceeding Ok, well now is the time to get back into the nitty gritty of testing. This may take some time to work though. I may go over a few things you know or have tried but its better I tell you them then assume. Ok the Abstract here, this is one of the things which can happen with upgrading you Bios especially if you had something that seemed flaky. As Asus noted in the bios upgrade notes they did change how the memory timing work. I am hoping you did not update to the the BETA Bios, as Asus notes that this can cause permanent damage to your motherboard, and Asus takes no responsibility. If you did mistakenly update to the BETA Bios your going to want to ASAP run Asus Flashback, and Flash to the latest NON-Beta Bios, or go to 1202 as I suggested. If you did not update to the Beta-Bios you can hold off on reflashing the Bios for the moment and proceed with testing. A few things you need to do: 1 Download and setup a memtest86 Free USB stick from this site: https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm to boot from ( we want to remove windows from testing for the moment as it can cause false positives) 2 Clear the Cmos using the "Clear CMOS Header" on your motherboard. Then get back into the Bios and load Optimized Defaults Set the memory to DOCP, Do not set any other overlclocking at this point, Set the motherboard to UEFI or what its normally set to for booting. (ideally this should always be using UEFI) If you need to find the Clear CMOS header Page 1-4 https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/TUF_GAMING_B550M-PLUS/E17265_TUF_GAMING_B550M-PLUS_UM_v2_WEB.pdf 3 If the memory errors persists, in Memtest86 Free pull out all the memory and put the suspected stick into DDR4 Dimm_A1 run the memtest86 free usb stick, If the stick clears with no errors, then remove it and run the Memtest86 Free test on each stick of ram individually. The next steps are going to depend on your results. and what you have done so far -If you did reflash the BIOS back to 1202 or the latest Non-Beta Bios And your NOT getting Memory errors anymore with DOCP enabled And the ram seems to be behaving again, then you may leave it and monitor the situation. Slowly add back in your overclocking settings. -If you Are still receiving Memory Errors, But Did not use Asus Flash Back to flash to Bios 1202 I recommend flashing back to 1202 as this will restore memory timings from before. Run the above memory tests again. if no more memory error pop up your probably fine. It the memory error persists, try to identify which stick is causing the problem. Now if you find the stick causing you problems you can try lowering the memory speed till the ram stick no longer causes issues. Then Look into RMA options with your Ram. I hope this helps
  8. Quite possible. Its defiantly worth reaching out to Zotac, Even just to see what they say. Plus get it on record with them. Zotac apparently have a Standard Warranty: 2 of years. So and with the RTX 2070 coming out in 2018. I'd say it would be a good idea to contact them just in case. They would be the ones to know if this problem is indicative of a hardware failure. Plus If the problem is persisting past the additional steps will help convince them. Its also possible Zotac may have a firmware patch to resolve the issue so DatRay might be able to get around being without a operation computer. https://www.zotac.com/us/page/product-warranty-policy
  9. I'm not sure about the Minecraft video, as I do not personally play Minecraft, it looks like a texture glitch in the game, If it wasn't pointed out I wouldn't think anything of it. The only other things I can really suggest is: -In setting type in Game Mode. Try turning off Game Mode. -Turn off the Xbox Game Bar. Both those have been noted to cause weird problems to blue screens, but It depends on the game your playing. -Under Display settings click on Graphics settings, try toggling on Hardware-accelerated GPU Scheduling. -Set: "Choose an app to set preference" to desktop app -Try playing games in full screen, rather than windowed. that may help. Otherwise try a few other games and see if you can see find graphical issues. Maybe try Valheim its quite popular right now, and not too expensive. It seems to have a good player base so it should be easy to compare to what other people are seeing to find glitches? After this we start getting into the, try a fresh reinstall of the latest windows 10, get a UPS territory.
  10. One thing I would question here is: where did AMD say that All AM4 sockets would be backward compatible? All I can find is the Statement from AMD which confirm AM4 motherboards will be supported until 2020. The press has said other things, but I have not seen a statement from AMD saying anything different? If there is a statement fro AMD could someone link it please? This isn't all that different from what AMD did on the AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+.
  11. I understand your concern, but diagnosing a odd problems like this you have to look at the entire computer. As its all connected and what might seem unrelated can have a serious impact. Ok now that I know what you have I can make some recommendations. Try each in order, I've tried to order them from easiest to hardest. 1-Update your AMD Chipset Drivers from AMD's site: https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b550 2-Update and make sure your running the latest driver from nVidia's site, don't use the driver from Zotac's site. https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us 3-Looking at: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/All-series/TUF-GAMING-B550M-PLUS/HelpDesk_BIOS/ There are indeed newer Bios's but I personally would not go beyond BIOS Version 1202, as with the newer AMD Agesa odd things have been happening. It's a bit of a mess right now, so I would stick to the last revision before they added the 5000 series CPU's compatibility as your running a 3000 series chip. They will sort it out just have to give them time. Also with Asus make sure you use the flashback function when upgrading the BIOS, just to avoid issues. 4-Another thing you can try, to rule out issues is move the Videocard to the second PCIE slot (if there is enough room), and see if your problem persists. Try those things and see if you have any difference.
  12. Going to need a bit more to go with this. What Graphics Card are you using, whats your motherboard, whats your CPU, what wattage is your PSU, What and how much Ram are you using? If your videocard has multiple PCIE power connectors are you Daisy chaining one power connector, Or are you using 2 independent power connectors to power your GPU? Have you installed the latest windows 10 updates? See: https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/microsoft/microsoft-pushes-emergency-fix-for-windows-10-kb5001330-gaming-issues/ https://www.windowslatest.com/2021/04/24/microsoft-issues-emergency-windows-10-april-fix-for-performance-issues/ Have you installed the latest Stable Motherboard Bios? Are you Overclocking your Computer in anyway?
  13. So I have learned that apparently on the Crosshair VII Hero Bios 4204 with the Matisse 3000 series, there is a CPU Overtempmax temp trip that is set too low. By 20c+ has been reported so far. This apparently this will cause a emergency shutdown. The only way to get around this (so far) is to set CPU Temp Monitoring to Ignore. Which seems like a bad idea.
  14. Hello ShrimpBrime, Thank you for replying. The interesting thing is this Bios 4204 is suppose to fully support the Matisse on the Crosshair VII Hero, and it does have a couple fixes for the Crosshair VII Hero running Matisse CPU's. The one notable one for me is it fixed the random cpu spikes that caused the fans to rev, this was a known problem with 3103. There are a few other minor fixes too. I've noted them all while running 4204. So just because the mainstay of Bios 4204 support is for Vermeer, doesn't mean Matisse on the Crosshair VII Hero isn't getting any tweaks by ASUS. I'd hate to get a Vermeer 5900x CPU and find the same problems. So I'm looking for a bit more than "If it don't work don't use it"
  15. If its still working and not bulged, leave it alone. If your worried you can get a voltage tester, and test the voltage its putting out. I think it should be 3.3v DC
  16. A bit ago I tried upgrading the Bios on this Crosshair VII Hero WiFi from Bios 3103 to 4007 using the USB Flashback functionality, running Windows 10 pro 20H2. I noticed a few oddities, the biggest one was the computer intermittently hard rebooting. I looked though the settings tinkered with a few voltages and removing C-states, clearing the settings, loading optimized defaults. But it kept Randomly rebooting? I could not find any real rhyme or reason. I figured just a buggy Bios so I rolled back to 3103, and the computer went back to running fine. So the other day I thought I would update the Bios to Version 4204, again from 3103. Updated the AMD chipset drivers, and ran sfv /scannnow before flashing the bios via usb flashback. After a bit It started doing the random hard reset's again? It even does the random hard reset from within the BIOS. Setting the voltages for the Vcore and Ram , and it ran fine for the next day while I ran varous bench marks: Unigine Heaven, Prime 95, Folding at home. I then went into the Bios to tweak the fan curves and low and behold It did the Hard reboot again while I was in the Bios? When it got into windows after login it hard reboot again, Then it started working fine again? Looking though the event logs I see Kernal-Power "The system rebooted without cleanly shutting down first." and Eventlog showing:"the previous System Shutdown was unexpected" Ran SFC /Scannow and no issues found. I'm really at a loss, It works fine on the older 3103 bios? I've looked around but I haven't seen a post go into depth with this type of error, but is possible I'm blind. I am intending on upgrading the CPU and Graphics card when they are back in stock. System Specs: ROG Crosshair VII Hero WiFi Ryzen 3600x 16 GB Gskill F4-3866C18D-8GTZ Samsung B-Die Corsair HX1000i AMD Radeon R9 390X NVME M.2 WD Black SN750 Anyone have any helpful insights?
  17. Not sure exactly which form this belongs in. I picked up a Google Chromecast with Google TV. I previously used a Amazon Firestick HD on my personal TV (no cable). I have found the Chromecast w/ Google TV is an all around better experience to work with. I found it much more usable than the HD Firestick, to be honest the HD Firestick feels neutered in comparison. Its not that the HD Firestick is bad, far from it, but the Chromecast w/ Google TV so far is just that much nicer to work with. Especially with the the Apps only option that take away all the clutter and much of the superfluous advertising. I found my network attached storage, worked great for streaming content, something that I found hard to do with the HD Firestick. Now as I'm sure some of you have read its possible to add a USB-C Hub with Power pass though to the Chromecast w/ Google TV, I picked up a Belkin USB-C Media Hub with 60w pass though power, It works great. The Chromecast w/ Google TV picks up storage devices formatted the Fat 32. You can also expand your storage and app storage by adding external storage devices. The Ethernet port on the hub also works great (so if you have bad WiFi there is a way around that). This hub also comes with a HDMI port which I did not test, it also comes with a SD card reader which I did not test but I expect to work the same as the USB Sticks. Now as to USB peripherals I've tried: the generic USB Keyboard and mice work, Webcams will work for video, the mic on the Webcam works for recording audio. Now there are a few caveats and requirements to hooking up a USB-C Hub, You need a better external USB-C power Brick, the 15w one that comes with the Chromecast w/ Google TV will not work properly. I picked up a 45w power brick and it works. Now the more power hungry devices you hook to the USB-C Hub the stronger the powersupply needs to be. The Bluetooth connectivity works pretty decently, but your mileage may vary some things may connect, but not function correctly. Bluetooth Keyboard and mice work great. Now its not all sunshine and lollipops, there are issues. Many Bluetooth devices do not work properly. Some Soundbar's will not work currently. Google has curated its app list so you will find that you can not load a great many apps directly onto the Chromecast w/ Google TV. The Google Play store for downloading apps on the Chromecast w/ Google TV is straight up trash, I found its much easier to use the browser web-interface from a computer to load apps onto the Chromecast w/ Google TV. Side Loading is pretty easy, first off you have to get into dev mode, and flip on usb debugging. This is done the same as any android device I've used. To load the APK's I used X-plore File Manager to locate the APK files that I had downloaded with my PC, there are many different ways to do this. While Many programs work fine, google will not add them to the GUI menu if you install them, you have to go to the apps list in the settings, or install Sideload Launcher - Android TV to access them. Be aware some Apps just will not work. Now another problem is the IR blaster in the Chromecast w/ Google TV is somewhat anemic, so you may find it does not work well. Now one really Odd issue I found: You may have noticed I mentioned that the Webcam will work to send video, and that you can record audio with the Webcam. I've only tried 2 Webcams so this is not a exhaustive list. One was a Logitech C920s Pro HD, the other a (inexpensive) Angetube webcam. Both of these web Cams had the same results. I side Loaded the latest Zoom onto the Chromecast w/ Google TV, I found a bluetooth mouse and keyboard were necessary to use Zoom. Now the oddity I found was while the Video looks fine, the audio would only work for 2 seconds after connecting the to Zoom meeting then mute, with no way to unmute. But but I side loaded a stand alone audio recording app and it recorded audio fine. I have tried a few other communication apps with no change in the result. So I'm at a loss, Video works, and Audio works, but not together?
  18. That's a bit of a tough one without some more information. The first thing I suggest doing is turn on verbose mode for shutdown and startup https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-turn-on-verbose-booting-mode-in-windows-10-with-a-registry-edit/ This might give you a idea of where its hanging up. The other thing to look at is your Event Viewer: Right click on your start menu and select Event Viewer, expand Custom Views, and Click on Administrative Events. and look at the time where you were shutting down, Be aware there is normally a ton of warnings and errors in the event viewer, most can be ignored. You might find the information here. Some People often find the event viewer a bit intimidating.
  19. First computers x86 used DOS 2.1, 4.01, 5.0, 6.1, 6.2, 6.22. Looked at Windows 1.0 went back to DOS. Windows 3.1, Windows 3.11, Then Windows 95, 95 OSR1, 95 OSR2, 95 OSR 2.5. Windows98, 98se, Me, Windows XP, Vista x64, 7 x64, 8 x64, 8.1 x64, 10 x64. Windows NT 3.51, 4.0, 2000, 2003, 2008, 2008R2.
  20. Hi Vonavi, I've found pretty much the same thing. It appears somebody messed up when creating the original 20H2 ISO. I have not tried to tackle the virtual machines yet. So its nice to know that the problems are even worse there. I've been working on the 20H2 Image to create a new deployment. Unfortunately some of my users are the type that just know enough to cause a headache. So I would be inundated with questions regarding these hidden device drivers. Let alone the potential issues these could create in the Labs. Just not worth the trouble. But I have a few dev's bugging me about deploying 20H2, my answer so far has been when its ready I will. I'm running my test rig with 20H2 right now. I tried adding in a script that forces windows to re-detect unassigned drivers when it reaches that part of the install, Thus clearing the unassigned drivers. But some Weird glitch makes it so it hangs for 15 to 20 minuets. Which is unacceptable when using PXE to install Images. I'm also a IT Professional I would love a reasonable explanation to these rogue hidden device drivers. And preferably a fix to this issue. Anyone?
  21. Um? Your Trolling right? Because it sure sound like you are.... Just on the off chance you are not: Fresh Install = Removal of all partitions from system drive, format, and install of a Operating System ISO (In this Case Windows 10) Imaging a System or re-imaging = removing all partitions from the system drive, installing a Pre-configured ISO of Windows 10 That is scripted to format the drive. This ISO is meant for quick deployment for a corporate or educational environment. Blow and Load = Removal of all partitions on boot drive, Format of drive and install from a Operating System ISO (In this Case Windows 10) In no place were the words "upgrade" or "restore" used, because they would be inaccurate.
  22. Ok I did a fresh reinstalled 20H2, I did some screenshots of device manager. 3 screen shots showing the additional stuff. Keep in mind the additional stuff does not show up in windows 10 2004. No Updates other than what comes with windows 20H2, only the drivers that come with 20H2.
  23. Clean Install of Windows 10 Pro 20H2 X64, Looking over Device Manager to check which driver need to be installed, Toggle Show Hidden Devices, and notice something weird, (Note this is a AMD System no intel parts at all), but for some reason under CPU its showing two entries for an Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU E5-2673 V4 @ 2.30GHZ along side my my 8 core AMD CPU? Look around Some more and notice 2 floppy disk controllers (this computer does not have a floppy drive controller) Then Notice Hyper-V devices installed all over the place? Open up Programs and Features and Toggle Turn Windows Features on or off, Hyper-V is not checked. So I’m going what the hell? Bad image or something? Wipe the computer and install Windows 10 Pro 2004 from a ISO I have. No weird Xeon CPU no Floppy Controllers, No Hyper-V? All is as expected. Figure I must have gotten a screwed up image from Microsoft. Download a Fresh ISO of windows 10 20H2 direct from Microsoft. When Installing this time I miss click and install windows 10 Home 20H2, I figure what the hell its just a test. When I get to the desktop. I check the device manager toggle Show Hidden Devices. Again I see the Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU E5-2673 V4 @ 2.30GHZ, 2 floppy disk controllers, and Hyper-V installed on the machine. This is a fresh Blow and load of Windows 10 20H2. Then I recall Hyper-V is not officially even suppost to work on Windows 10 Home? Each install was was a clean install, no upgrades. I’m at a bit of a loss on where to go from here with Windows 10 20H2.. I mean I could manually remove all the in devices I know that are not part of the computer. But why is it installing the drivers for a Xeon CPU on a AMD system, and Why is Hyper-V being installed?
  24. Easy to say, but a bit harder to do, especially when they apply can apply online updates before group policys takes effect.
×