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Ceetch

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About Ceetch

  • Birthday Jul 24, 1986

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Ceetch#2796
  • Battle.net
    Gorcyber#1849
  • Twitch.tv
    https://www.twitch.tv/ceetch24

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 3770K
  • Motherboard
    ASRock H77M
  • RAM
    G.SKILL Ares 16GB DDR3 1600
  • GPU
    NVidia GTX1050 2GB
  • Case
    Cooler Master N400
  • Storage
    WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - SATAIII
    Seagate BarraCuda 2TB - SATAIII
  • PSU
    KINGWIN ABT-1050MM 1050W
  • Display(s)
    Acer ED347CKR bmidphzx
    Acer S271HL
    ASUS VG23AH
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master AIO Water Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810
  • Mouse
    Logitech M510
  • Sound
    SoundBlaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCIe
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. Even the top 20 series cards barely used up all of a PCIe 3.0 8x slot, and came nowhere close to using all of 16x's bandwidth. I know the 30 series is a lot faster, but for something expected to be double the power of a card that just barely fully saturated 8x, it should be able to live comfortably at 16x. I think the 2080 Ti and maybe Super was capable of bottlenecking on 8x, but that was it. I'm guessing the 30 series will be the same with 16x, with only the 3090 or eventual Ti/Super versions actually fully saturating the 16x bandwidth.
  2. I have the Odyssey G7 myself and I love it. My only complaint is that it flickers with GSync, and I think the G9 has the same issue. It's also a massive and heavy monitor, so make sure you have the room for it. There's supposed to be a firmware update for the G7 and G9 that fixes the flicker, as well as a new NVidia driver that's supposed to help, but last I checked it wasn't fixed yet.
  3. Quoted from: https://www.slashgear.com/nvidia-answers-some-burning-rtx-30-series-questions-pcie-4-3080-ram-04636806/ We also learn what kind of performance downgrade owners can expect if they use these cards with PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 4.0. “System performance is impacted by many factors and the impact varies between applications,” NVIDIA’s Seth Schneider said. “The impact is typically less than a few percent going from a x16 PCIE 4.0 to x16 PCIE 3.0. CPU selection often has a larger impact on performance. We look forward to new platforms that can fully take advantage of Gen4 capabilities for potential performance increases.” So, if you’re planning to stick with PCIe 3.0 for the foreseeable future, it sounds like you won’t see any major performance downgrades. If you’re planning on buying an RTX 30-series card, then that entire AMA is worth reading through, as it covers a lot of different topics. We’ll undoubtedly be learning more about the RTX 30-series in the days and weeks to come, so stay tuned for more.
  4. I'd say yes and no... Technically the card won't get the absolute top speed of memory transfer... but at the same time, I highly doubt there's a single game out there right now aside from tech demos and benchmarks, that can actually fully saturate the bandwidth of PCIe 3.0, so you probably aren't even going to notice the difference. It's like worrying if your new car can break 150mph, when you're only able to drive it on the highway at 65-80mph. granted, I'm not an expert by any stretch... that's just the general advice I've seen around lately...
  5. first thing would be to check the GPU temps... the latest updates to Windows shows the current GPU temperature on the Performance tab of Task Manager, so I'd probably check that first. Try running a game and have Task Manager up and check if the temps start rising. It's normal to rise a bit, but if it's getting over 75 degrees, that could be the issue. If the temps are staying at normal levels, then there's probably something else causing the issue.
  6. Yeah, upgrading the PSU may help the system run more safely, but if you're getting bad frames, it might be that the card is getting too hot, or there's something else preventing the card from running at peak performance (bottlenecks from the CPU, RAM, or hard drive...maybe)
  7. it says 250w PSU... while the 1050Ti is happy enough with 75w for itself, they recommend at least 300w PSU for a modern system with that card in it. You may want to upgrade. That may not be the source of the issue, but it'll definitely at least protect you from drawing more power than the PSU can handle. It's also possible that the card isn't getting enough cooling. You should check the GPU temps to make sure it's not being throttled by heat.
  8. I wonder if it booted to Safe Mode... that would cause most peripherals to not work since only core Windows drivers are loaded in Safe Mode. Do you see anything on the desktop saying Safe Mode or showing the version and build numbers for Windows? Usually just rebooting again will turn it back to normal mode, unless there's a driver that's failing when Windows tries to boot normally.
  9. chances are, the charging port is connected directly to the battery and has nothing to do with the system turning on. Either power from the battery isn't making it to the system, or the system is fried. I'd probably suggest leaving it to charge for an hour (keep and eye on it to make sure it doesn't get hot, since it's possible the battery is failing), in case the battery just got too low to boot the computer. The fact that the charging light changes when you hold the power button likely means the button still works and is triggering the hard shutdown feature, often used when your computer freezes up and won't shut down normally.
  10. there's probably still some water stuck under the membrane of the keyboard and it's shorting out those keys, making the system think you're holding down the keys the entire time. It should dry out eventually, but it's probably best to unplug the system and remove the battery for a little longer until there's absolutely no liquid left...
  11. Exactly... most newer systems require at least the 8-pin CPU power, but ideally the additional 4-pin as well. (Look just above the IO area in the upper left corner of the board.)
  12. I found another post with a similar issue and they said to connect to a graphics card and try to hit the UEFI/BIOS key while attempting to boot. Apparently the MB might be set to fastboot, but there's no OS installed yet, so it just fails.
  13. are you sure the system isn't turning on? sometimes the computer turns on, but the display doesn't work. Maybe try connecting it to an external display or TV to see if you get something.
  14. Is it able to get at least to the BIOS? Have you tried reseating the CPU and RAM to make sure it's not a bad connection?
  15. health is probably referring to the SMART status of the drive, which doesn't always report every possible failure the drive could experience. I have a secondary hard drive currently that reports perfect health, but CrystalDiskMark shows it's only reading and writing at about 1/3 the speed most hard drives do. I recently bought a new hard drive to replace it and it's made a big difference.
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