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Posts posted by PenguinMaster
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@Falcon1986 @Blue4130 @scottyseng
Do you guys know of any reputable ethernet cable manufacturers? It seems like trueCABLE and Newyork Cables are decent but I am having a lot of trouble finding S/FTP cable. I definitely decided on shielded cable because people say it dissipates heat better for PoE+ which I need for my WiFi Access points. Do you guys think S/FTP is overkill and I should go with either S/UTP or F/UTP? Is it more important for the twisted pairs to be shielded or for the whole cable itself to be shielded?
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2 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:
My understanding is that all 6a is shielded. That's part of the 6a spec.
On Amazon Cat6a comes in UTP, U/FTP, S/UTP, F/UTP and SFTP
Most of the 1000ft spools look like UTP
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6 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:
Whatever solid core, all copper wire is cheapest.
Ok, I'll just check the reviews on Amazon also
7 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:23awg and 24awg may be close
Ok so for 23awg get 23awg ends and for 24awg get 24awg ends?
Do you think I need shielded? I feel like that's kind of overkill for a home environment
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1 hour ago, Blue4130 said:
@PenguinMaster the difference between 6e and 6a may be small, but if it was me, I'd go 6a now (and I'd likely run a few Fibre runs to key areas as well). Do it right and overkill the first time, when the walls are open. It will save so much hassle than trying to fish line in the future.
Ok I will run Cat6a. Got any suggestions for cable brands?
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I am looking at wiring my new house for ethernet (walls are open).
For regular ethernet jacks around the house this is my plan:
Punch-down Keystone Wall Plate > Cat6E Cable > Patch Panel with Pass-through Couplers (not punch down style) > Patch Cat6 cable > Switch
For WiFi Access Points this is my plan:
AP > Cat6E Cable > Patch Panel with Pass-through Couplers (not punch down style) > Patch Cat6 cable > PoE Injector > Patch Cat6 cable > Switch
I am not sure if this is too complicated or if it will work fine
My main reason for this forum post is does anyone know if the PoE injectors will work with those FS.com couplers in the blank patch panel? They are circuit board instead of individually wired internally. I contacted their support but they told me no twice and yes once for PoE support from three different representatives. The other reason is does anyone know if my current setup will be able to handle 10GbE in the future (other than the switch)? I can run Cat6a instead of the Cat6E if thats better for the future.
The parts are as follows:
>RJ45 Modular Ends: Cable Matters 100 Pack Pass Through RJ45 Modular Plugs for Solid or Stranded UTP Cable
>Punch-down Keystone Jacks: Cable Matters UL Listed 25-Pack Slim Profile 90 Degree Cat 6, Cat6 RJ45 Keystone Jack with Keystone Punch Down Stand in White
>Router: Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro
>Switch: Ubiquiti Switch Pro 24
>Patch Panel: Cable Matters Rackmount or Wall Mount 24 Port Keystone Patch Panel (Blank Patch Panel for Keystone Jacks/Keystone Panel)
>Couplers for Blank Patch Panel: Cat6 Keystone RJ45 Coupler, Unshielded, Female to Female Insert Inline Coupler
>Patch Cables: 12ft (3.7m) Cat6 Snagless Unshielded (UTP) PVC CM Ethernet Network Patch Cable
>Access Points: Ubiquiti UniFi Access Point WiFi 6 Long-Range & Ubiquiti UniFi Access Point WiFi 6 Lite
>Wall Plates: Two Ports Keystone Single Gang Wall Plate
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Is it wise to buy the memory now at $136.99 when normal MSRP is $158.99 or is it better to wait until Cyber Monday to see if it gets discounted?
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7 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:
That's 32GB = +$$ and of course RGB = +$$ and then that better quality die.... and they know it.... = +$$..
And why I run only 16gb. Haven't had the memory warning on the HTPC which the kids uses the F out of. He doesn't stream, but gaming and chat + AI (likes to play BeamNGDrive a lot haha). Haven't maxed 16gb yet. So if your only gaming, save your coin and just get 16gb... unless you're a streamer junky (or other compute), then I understand.
I think I might just get the 16GB because even though my use case is gaming / 3D modeling I think I can get away with 16GB plus I honestly don't think its worth so much extra to me
This is the set I'm set on: CMW16GX4M2Z3600C14
The price is pretty good at $136.99
So hopefully after selling my old memory it should be almost even for pricing. I know the capacity is half now but I'm honestly just happy that the computer will finally work without blue screening.
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2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:
239 bucks
Yea that's what I thought when I saw it. Kind of expensive... maybe wait until Black Friday / Cyber Monday? If not when I sell the kits I have now for about $75ea, the total damage is about $100 which isn't terrible. Definitely not great though.
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1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:
OH!
I didn't know you was looking for 32gb.....
But no, 2 B-Die kits will work fine together.
You have to remember that user intervention may be needed to exceed 3200mt/s with 32GB of memory installed. It may not be a plug and play deal hit XMP/DOCP and go. Some systems need a wee bit of memory training....
Thanks for the B-Die website it was really helpful! I found this set: CMW32GX4M2Z3600C14
Does it look ok?
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This is what I found on PCPartPicker for the Corsair RAM sets. They only have 1 set of RAM that has a latency of less than 18??
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2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:
You go for the kit I linked above. Scroll up bud! (first page)
Do you know of any Corsair RGB sets that work well? I know this is kind of dumb but I have a Corsair 220T AirFlow case and if I'm going to buy a new set of RAM I'd rather just have all the RGB sync together rather than using multiple different programs to control it.
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So is my best bet just to sell these memory kits and to get an "AMD-certified" kit? Should I go 3600 or 3200? I honestly just want the system to run stable so I wouldn't want to mess with manual OC settings since I basically know nothing about OC'ing.
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58 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:
First and second gen Ryzen sometimes had such comparability issues. Third gen less so. However, some 3000 series chips have difficulty running at DDR4-3600 speeds because the Infinity Fabric can't handle it, but it sounds like you've been using this kit for a while.
Did you need to overvolt the SOC to run at that speed, or is your CPU running at stock apart from simply enabling XMP?
My CPU is stock other than just the XMP profile being enabled.
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1 minute ago, AbydosOne said:
You might need to dial back the memory speed a little though (XMP isn't a guarantee).
I can try that but the memory kit is supposed to run at 3600. Also what is the performance penalty for not running at 3600 since I thought that's the speed where the "RAM and infinity fabric of the CPU are at a 1:2 ratio which means they're running in sync".
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1 minute ago, Slayerking92 said:
buy intel or different ram
I've had this computer for nearly 2 years now so its too late to return everything and switch to intel. And I can just buy other RAM it just doesn't make any sense that they can justify charging nearly double for some of their kits.
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Just now, YoungBlade said:
What CPU do you have?
I have a Ryzen 7 3700X
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Recently my computer has been randomly blue-screening and randomly not waking up from sleep. It seems that the A-XMP 1 Profile on my MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX motherboard is causing the ram to run unstable. The RAM I am using is F4-3600C19D-16GVRB. It's G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2x 8GB) kits and I have two of them installed in my system.
First I thought it was a BIOS-related issue and so I tried to update the BIOS using MSI's tool and I was unsuccessful and the BIOS ended up corrupting itself. Then I had the board RMA'd and they swapped it for a different unit. The new motherboard runs fine with A-XMP OFF but NOT when it is enabled. The RAM then causes the computer to blue-screen again. I then contacted G.Skill support and they told me that the RAM I had is "Intel-only" and that the only solution to my problem is to spend $175 buying "AMD Ryzen certified memory". Is there legitimately a difference between "Intel certified" and "AMD certified" memory, or is it just a marketing sham so they can charge almost double the price for the same memory kit?
Also if there is actually a difference in the memory kits why do they hide this in the description of the memory kits? Also, PCPartPicker lists my memory kit as compatible with my motherboard, but according to G.Skill, it's not. In the reviews of my memory kit on Newegg it seems many other people have had this same issue as me and G.Skill hasn't updated their listing to state that this is "Intel-only" memory.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do?
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My gaming PC that I built keeps blue screening and not waking up from sleep. I think it might be faulty memory because I got the popup message below.
These are my specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard (motherboard was just RMA'd because the USB 3 header was only half-functional)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL19 Memory
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL19 Memory
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB XC GAMING Video Card
Case: Corsair iCUE 220T RGB Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link Archer TX3000E PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax Wi-Fi Adapter
Case Fan: Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB Pro 52 CFM 120 mm Fan
Let me know if you have any suggestions as I'm not entirely sure what could be causing this.
My computer blue screened the first couple of days right after I built it but then it stopped doing it and I just upgraded from an ASUS RX570 to the EVGA RTX 3060 (thankfully I got one) and now all the sudden its happening again.
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4 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:
If it's just doing backups, a pentium 4 system would work just fine, since you really don't need a ton of speed with that drives. You might wanna just save the i7 system for when it will do something requiring a bit more power. Usually, you want your backup scheme to have redundancy as well, so having two of those 16TB drives in RAID 1 would be preferred. Granted, it's not as important as your main machine, but its still a good idea to have redundancy in your backup as well.
Ok I will look into getting 2 drives in that case. Thanks for all your help!
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18 hours ago, RONOTHAN## said:
Exos drives are better drives than the Iron Wolf Pros. You probably won't need to have the data recovery if you're backing up (remember, RAID is not a backup), though I thought the Exos drives did come with data recovery (I could be wrong).
That being said, you might want to wait on getting new drives, prices are awful for drives, though they are starting to come down. Probably in another few months prices will be down to earth.
Some of the drives seem like they are pretty reasonable. I agree that the Exos Drives look like a better option than the Iron Wolfs. For a backup I have a 2012 Mac mini (i7, 16GB RAM, 240GB SSD) with a 16TB External HDD. I also have a 2014 Mac mini (i5, 4GB RAM, 240GB SSD) which I can switch the 2012 out for if you think the i5 would be a better option for this.
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15 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:
The CPUs I probably wouldn't bother upgrading, at least not yet. If you run a lot of VMs, it would be worth getting the 14 core chips, but given you're just starting out in the server world, the dual 6 cores you have should be enough
You probably won't need 64GB of RAM, especially if you run UnRAID, but even if you're running ZFS it should be enough.
Those storage drives look fine. You'll get 16TB of data assuming 2 drives of redundancy, and those SSDs if mirrored would do a good job of being a cache/VM host.
The GPU looks fine.
That sounds good. For the HDDs would Seagate Exos drives be better? They are rated for more reads and writes and are $40 cheaper than the Iron Wolf Pros for the same drive size. Do I need the data recovery service the iron wolf pros offer if I will have a backup anyway?
AMD Ryzen CPU Cooler Upgrade
in Cooling
Posted
Hi all-
I currently have an AMD Ryzen 3700X with an ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports CPU cooler. Its been a decent CPU cooler over the past few years since I made the system but just recently the fan decided to spin itself to death and now I had two choices, either buy a new fan or just get a new CPU cooler. I've always wanted to try liquid cooling in a system and the Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX cooler caught my attention. I already have a corsair case and memory so I would like the CPU cooler to also match. If someone has a better cooler in mind let me know but I want it to match with the Corsair ecosystem that I've invested in. The case I have now is a Corsair 220T AirFlow and so it says it supports 360mm coolers but it looks like it is going to be an extremely tight fit so I think I would rather stick to 240mm. I am not overclocking the system at all so I don't need a lot of overhead.
Thanks for everyone who responds advice.