PenguinMaster

What about something like a soundproof blanket over the door? Or will that totally stop airflow

I would prefer to use that server if I can. It wont be the worst case if I can't though because I can sell it for almost exactly what I paid for it. Got any ideas for maybe changing the doors on the room to something different? I only worry about the thermals of the equipment with different style doors on the room.

Hi all, My family is having a new house built, we are currently in the framing phase of the build. I am definitely wiring the home with TrueCABLE CAT6A Shielded (FTP) Cable for full 10GbE throughout the house. I expect there to be a total of 18 runs. The Network Cables will connect to a patch panel in the networking closet, which I proposed below. This is not what the final room will look like, but it is close to it. (I expect the doors on the room to be smaller). This is what I was thinking: Some Specs about the room: >The room is 8ft (length) x 4ft (depth) x 9ft (height) >The Server Rack was an HPE 48U Server Rack, that was cut down to be a 25U Server Rack because that is what fit in my previous home. It still has the same depth as the original rack though. >The Green Box in the wall is where I expect to terminate the ethernet cables to. From the Patch Panel, I will use short CAT6A Patch Cables to go to the switch, which I will have rear mounted here. >The Orange Box is the outlet for the room. I am planning for a dedicated 20A 110/120V circuit for the Rack. >The devices I expect to have in the Rack are an HPE DL380 Gen9, a Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro, a Ubiquiti Switch Pro 24, a Raspberry Pi 4, a Custom PC - only an i3 though for management and some basic server tasks, 2x Apple Time Capsules, and 7x PoE injectors (for WiFi access points & breakout switches around the house). There will be a battery backup to protect the gear also. My question is how do I sound detonate the room as I expect their to be a seating area around the corner from this closet and I know the HPE server runs loud. I expect that the Passive cooling from the basement will be enough for the rack, that is all that I had in my old house and I never had a problem. This is also why there are louver doors on the room (for cooling). I know that the doors are not very good at blocking sound though which is my concern. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Who makes the best 10GbE NIC for windows 10? I’ve seen good things about these: >ASUS XG-C100C >TP-Link TX401 >10GTek X540-10G-2T-X8 >Intel X540-T2 >ipolex X540-10G-2T Which have you guys had luck with? I want the best out of box experience.

I ended up getting the be quiet dark rock 4 because I had an additional 15% off coupon and I have a lot of be quiet stuff and I like the quality / low sound of them.

@Tech87@Fasauceome These are the CPU coolers I'm between: $57.40 - be quiet! Dark Rock 4 $66.90 - be quiet! Dark Rock 4 Pro $79.95 - Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black Which would you guys recommend?

I am planning on building a new system for VR. I know you can't get GPUs at the moment so for now I'm buying all the parts except the GPU and hopefully some time next year the prices will be sane again. My question is what is a decent CPU cooler for the 11600K? I'd prefer to stay at around or under $50 but the cpu cooler that seems the most recommended is the Noctua NH-U12S chroma.black for $79.95-. Is it worth all the extra money? It seems kind of expensive. Thanks for anyones input

@Oshino Shinobu Absolutely RIGHT!! I just want it to be perfect so I never have to do it again. This is what I ended up purchasing. I had multiple recommendations from people in the industry to use this cable. Even though it lacks each pair being twisted it is still shielded enough for my use case, and it supports both PoE and PoE+. Thanks for everyone's help!

@Oshino Shinobu Change of plans, I just found this other cable. The reason I liked this cable more is because I don't need the special crimp tool the other one needs (extra $30) or more expensive modular ends (extra $15). The cable is more expensive however and it lacks the braided sleeve around the foiled pairs. Not really sure for my use case if that is really necessary though. This cable also would just be easier in general to terminate. Which would you pick?

@Oshino Shinobu Thanks for everything. This is the cable I am decided on assuming the building inspector allows the CMR instead of CMP cable.

I would reach out to MSI support since you need to reset your BIOS.

@Oshino Shinobu The only thing I noticed about the cable is that there is no spline between each pair. Does this matter? or no since each pair is wrapped in foil?

For that specific model do you have the 11UG, 11UE, 11UD, or 11UC? Not yet, we haven't done enough troubleshooting. Usually BIOS settings don't just change on their own...

@Oshino Shinobu I just found the same cable in the CMR standard: still seems like a great price https://www.ebay.com/itm/175007849225

@Oshino Shinobu Yea I think I am just going to go Cat6A. Does this ethernet cable look good? It claims S/FTP and this is the lowest price I've ever seen this cable. Seems like a very good deal EDIT: I just realized that cable is CM rated and not CMR or CMP. Is it still worth it though?

Nooo I meant did you attempt to do a BIOS update resulting in this. I would strongly advise against a BIOS update unless your totally sure that's the problem. What model laptop is this?

Good thing you have backups! It is always good to keep on top of those. If you want a solid NVMe Drive that will last you a long time I would get either a WD SN850 or Samsung 980 Pro (if your motherboard supports PCIe 4.0 SSDs). If not I would still go either WD SN750 or Samsung 970 EVO or Samsung 980 (non-pro). I have never had issues with these SSDs before.

What about U/STP (braided instead of foil) is Foil better? Thanks for the idea about going Fiber but I heard they are very difficult to terminate to a wall jack and I'd also be afraid of one of the builders sub-contractors accidentally breaking the cable. I definitely considered this idea though.

Hmmm that is very weird. If you had very important data on it I would try to get an M.2 reader and use a computer to try and pull the information off it if you can. Then I would do a fresh windows install like you said. If you cant pull the data off the drive but you really need it you might need to send it off to a company like DriveSavers which can be very pricy, so it might be worth trying something like a $25 M.2 reader first.

Looking at completed listings on eBay if you sold each part individually: CPU - $165 CPU Cooler - $10 Motherboard - $70 Memory - $45 M.2 SSD - $75 2.5" SSD - $15 GPU - $125 Case - $60 PSU - $25 Total: $590 If you sold the computer all put together with all the parts you would get LESS money than if you parted it out and sold each part individually. I would say about $500 if you sold it all together

Can you get into the BIOS of your motherboard? Does it detect the M.2 Drive? To do this shut down the PC completely > push the power button > spam the DEL key until the BIOS menu pops up From there depending on your BIOS revision the place where the drive is listed could be different but in EZ mode there should literally just be a button that says: STORAGE Let me know the results

I would go to the start menu > search for add or remove programs > search for Minecraft launcher (DO NOT UNINSTALL MINECRAFT ITSELF) > click uninstall > follow the prompt that shows up (if any) > go back to the Microsoft store > redownload Minecraft Launcher Let me know if this works

What have you tried troubleshooting-wise so far? Did you attempt to do a BIOS update?

Some backstory: I am wiring my new house with Cat6A (I am set on this, I want full 10GbE at more than 150ft) and I now have to make a decision on shielding type. It is possible in my house that the ethernet cable WILL come into contact with 110/120V power lines so shielding is a MUST. Now onto the question: Is it more important for an ethernet cable to have shielding around the whole thing (ex: S/UTP or F/UTP), or for each individual pair to be shielded (ex: U/FTP or U/STP)? I was trying to find a cable that was both (S/FTP or F/FTP) but these cables are extremely difficult to find for some reason. I've been seeing a lot of Cat6A UTP cable but this wont work for me. Thank you for anyone's help.

I'm out of the RMA period. I think I'm just going to get 2x Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB ELITE Performance 120mm PWM Fans and attach them to the arctic cooler. Definitely after doing some AiO research it looks like its not worth it.