PenguinMaster

Hi all, I am looking into finalizing my TrueNAS Scale build, and I am unsure as to what RAID settings I should use. This is my first ever NAS build, so I do not have much experience with RAIDs. The drives that I have for the machine are 6x 4TB WD red NAS "plus" drives. I also have a 250 GB boot ssd and threw in an nvme cache drive. At the moment I have one extra cold spare drive. That would make the total WD red drive count 7. My plan was to have 5 drives holding data with 1 hot spare. This NAS will stay at my parents house, and I go away to school for months at a time, so I am unable to get to the NAS to swap in drives all the time in case of a failure. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Hi all-- I have a Unifi Switch Aggregation (a layer 2 switch) and am trying to disable RSTP on specific ports on the switch. These devices are being significantly delayed while connecting to the network because of the RSTP "config time" which happens every time the devices (Windows 11 clients) wake from sleep or turn back on after being shut down. In my internetworking class that I am taking in college, my professor suggested that I enable spanning-tree port fast which is meant for the Cisco devices we use in class. Is it possible and how I could do this on my Ubiquiti switch?

Figured it out - incorrectly installed AMD graphics driver.

Hi all, I recently got a Razer Blade 14 as an RMA replacement for my Razer Book since they don't make that model anymore (broken display cable on the Razer Book). The battery on this new Razer Blade laptop dies extremely quickly. Approximately 1% per minute while doing basic web browsing or just idling. Why is the battery draining so fast? What can I do to fix it? I have a 3 hour lecture and the laptop can't even make it through one class. Also I am running the latest Firmware that was released which was supposed to help with battery life -- it didn't. Any help is greatly appreciated

Hi sorry for my delayed reply. The device version of the switch is 6.5.59. I have the speed hard sent on both the port and the client. I do not believe the port is getting blocked by STP. I was not having a problem with throughput (the 10Gb), the problem happens when waking the computer from sleep or from shutdown. The computer shows that there is NO "internet" or local connection for at least 1-2 minutes. Ubiquiti WiFi 6 does not have this problem on my computer. As soon as I turn it on I am connected. Very strange.

Hi all- I recently got a Ubiquiti Switch Aggregation (the switch with 8x 10G SFP+ ports on it). I am having a problem where Windows clients that are connected to the switch with SFP+ to RJ45 adapters are taking upwards of 1-2 minutes to start receiving any traffic. I am not sure what is causing this. I currently have all 8 ports of the switch in use. I am using 2x aggregated together for a 20G connection to another switch (no connection delay), 1x for our main router (no connection delay), 1x for a PoE switch (no connection delay), 1x for a NAS (no connection delay), and then then the 3 remaining ports are connected to 10GbE equipped windows machines. The SFP+ to RJ45 adapters are from fs.com and the NICs in the Windows machines are from ASUS and TP-Link, all using the same chip from Aquantia I believe. I am using CAT6A ethernet cables between the switch and the machines. Once each machine connects (which usually like I said takes between 1 - 2 minutes) they are able to obtain the full 10/10 G speed. Does anyone have any ideas of what settings I can tweak? Should I try setting static IPs for those devices?

Hi all- As I have posted about in a couple of other posts, I am planning a build for a home NAS. I just realized I have 32GB of DDR4 2133 MHz sitting around and I was wondering if it would be fast enough for that processor. (The Intel i5 9600 NON-K variant) If not I can always just get new memory, I just wanted to know since I already had that sitting around if I could use it. I am planning to use TrueNAS Scale.

I already had the memory from another project, so I was planning on putting it in my system for the speed, RGB, and better timings/CL. I decided against it ultimately though because my system already works fine so its ridiculous to move the fan risk performance, and that memory says its AMD optimized not intel (in theory it should work anyway though). I'm just adding in an RGB strip for extra RGB.

The memory I am upgrading to is the Corsair CMW16GX4M2Z3600C14. I noticed the sticks are very tall. Do you think the memory would clear a 120mm fan?

Wouldn't the air still be pulled through the radiator? There are also 3 intake fans in the front which are not pictured.

I realized I should have specified, this is still the old ram. The new ram is even taller.

Hi all- I was looking to upgrade the memory in my computer to a new set, and I totally forgot how close this CPU cooler is to the ram. This is the be quiet! Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler and it sits right on top of the memory. What I was wondering was is it possible to switch the CPU cooling fan to the other side of the cooling fin tower? Will this greatly affect thermals?

Hi all - I am currently building a NAS for my home and I had a Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI motherboard sitting around that I wanted to use for the project. The motherboard has WiFi on it and I was wondering since I know in Gigabytes BIOS there is no way to disable the WiFi, if it is possible to disable it somehow in TrueNAS? I do not want to have to get a different motherboard if I can avoid it.

Great! Will try that

Hi all- I bought an LSI SAS9300-16I and I was wondering if to use it with TrueNAS Scale if I would need to flash it to IT mode or if it is plug and play. I am seeing a lot of mixed information online. Thanks!

Fixed -- still a lot of writing but wanted to make sure I didn't leave out any details.

Hi LTT members and employees -- I am not sure if this is the right place to complain about this but I would like to share my story of my Prusa (the 3D Printer company) MK4 Kit buying experience as I know they have been mentioned in LTT videos a couple of times. I bought the MK4 Kit back on release day (April 12, 2023) and it took them until July 14th, 2023 to ship the printer, and July 19th, 2023 to deliver it. When I was shopping for the printer I compared many options and was ultimately between the Prusa MK4, the AnkerMake M5, and the BambuLab P1P or X1 Carbon. I decided to wait and buy the Prusa MK4 printer because of the company's reputation, the ability to service parts and the alleged stellar customer support experience that people have been raving about. Starting off they missed their original delivery window for me by a week or so but it was okay because I was just excited to get the printer. The next thing that happened was I was hit with a very high import tax (almost $50) that on the original product page was not listed there. Now (as of today) when you go to checkout there is a disclosure there. The import tax doesn't even make any sense when you consider that the printer is $799 and the import fees are supposed to be on items over $800. I just shrugged it off and paid the import fees that DHL demanded because I was excited about the printer. When I got the printer it sat until the weekend (about 3 days) when I had time to put it together. I started putting the printer together and when I got about a 1/4 of the way through all of the steps I noticed one of the X-end clips had a hairline fracture through it. I stopped putting the printer together and contacted support about the broken part. They had me send a picture of the part and asked for the serial number and all of that information and I thought everything would be fine and that it would just be a short delay until I could start using my 3D Printer. I was pretty bummed out about it because the part had clearly been broken before it was packed in my kit, and I had already been waiting so long for my printer to come. I am not sure how that got through their QC but I did not mention anything about that. Today the replacement part comes (July 26th, 2023) and it was the wrong part in the wrong color. This was very disappointing as I was not sure how they could have shipped me the wrong part when I sent them multiple photos of the broken part and told them what the part was called as it was listed in the directions. The box was also totally mangled but that is DHL's fault, not Prusa's. I contacted their support again today and I said that the wrong part was shipped to me and that I was disappointed since this was my second time contacting them about this. I was very polite to the customer service agent and asked them if there was anything they could do for me just because I had been waiting so long up until this point and now I still can't use this printer. I asked if they would be able to give me a spool of PLA filament just to get me started with the new printer when I got it up and running and the agent informed me that the best he could do for me is a $15 voucher. The $15 voucher is very nice but a single spool of Prusament is already around $30 and they charge outrageous shipping costs of $20+ to my USA location. I asked the agent if since they were already shipping me the replacement part if I could still buy the spool of filament, but if they could combine the two products (the replacement part and the spool of filament) so that at least the shipping cost would be covered. Again the agent said that was the best he could do and that they would not be able to combine the two products into one box. That does not really make any sense to me since both products are coming from the Czech Republic from the same location. Not to mention just in general that is a waste of space (in an airplane) and resources since the box they just shipped to me today definitely had enough space to fit a spool of filament in the empty space in the box. I am very disappointed with Prusa so far because of all of these issues and it definitely makes me have severe buyer's remorse since I am already over $900 into this printer that still does not work today. Another reason I bought the Prusa MK4 was because of the multi-color/material printing ability with the MMU3 attachment (not released yet), and it comes in cheaper than the comparable BambuLab X1 Carbon with the multi-color/material attachment. The buyer's remorse really comes in because for just $200 more (MK4 Kit + MMU3) I could have had the BambuLab X1 Carbon already assembled, in an enclosure, and on my doorstep in a week. I also just saw that BambuLab released a multi-color/material printer called the P1S that comes in at $949, already in an enclosure, and could be on my doorstep in a week also. Not to mention it costs the same price as JUST the MK4 kit, after all the shipping/import fees not including the MMU3. The only reason I didn't go with a BambuLab was just because it is a closed-source printer, and I remember hating that with my XYZPrinting DaVinci 1.0 (DRM filament). Did I make the wrong choice? I am not even sure what to do at this point, I feel like I have invested so much money into this Prusa printer already.

Hi all- I am looking to get a new 4U server case for a NAS I am planning to build. I want the case to last a long time and go through many internal component changes without issues. I do not really need the hot-swap bays, but they are nice. I need something that is sort of affordable. The Sliger case is really pushing my budget for this once you factor in rails and Noctua fans. The three cases I am between are the Sliger CX4712, Rosewill RSV-L4412U, or RSV-L4500U. Does anyone have any input on this? I am open to buying used, but there are not very many used options on eBay at the moment that make sense for what you are paying.

It turns out we are printing more color than I thought. We need to have the ability to print in color. If I am going inkjet, I do NOT want cartridge printers -- it has to be the ones with the refillable tanks. I know nothing about color laser printers. Are they any good? What is the quality of print difference between the two?

Hi all- I am looking to buy a new printer for my house. I currently have an Epson XP-830 and the thing has been nothing but constant problems. I have never had a good print since it was new. The printer gets used a couple of times per week so I do not suspect the ink dried up or anything like that. The printer is constantly out of ink which makes no sense, I swear there is a timer internal on the printer and it just tells you its out of ink because they want you to buy more. The cost for a new set of ink is $50-$70 which seems expensive since I feel like I am constantly replacing it. When I print something, it always gets "scan lines" through it or random splotches of ink all over my paper. We had an Epson Artisan 710 before this printer and that one also had plenty of problems. I hate printers but I still need to keep them around. 95% of what we print is black and white so I do not think we need a color printer. I would be open to seeing options for both color and black and white though if you guys have suggestions. The only good thing about the printer we have now is whenever you need to make a copy of multiple papers there is an auto-feeder on the top of this printer. It is a nice to have, but not mandatory for a new printer. I would say 60% of our prints are shipping labels for things like ebay (black and white), 35% of the prints are text documents (black and white), and the remaining 5% are color photo prints. I have thought a number of times about getting a thermal printer for the labels, but they are so expensive! I think my best option is to go with a black and white laser printer, and maybe a thermal printer?, but I am not sure. What do you guys think?

First - Thanks for all your help! Looking at eBay there are a couple of variations of the same card it looks like. Do you know what the difference is between the two revisions? Option 1 Option 2 Thanks for the feedback on the PSUs'. I was looking at those 3 brands and just need to decide on a speciific unit. I need to decide on a motherboard -- do you know if I should go B series or Z series for this? I might be running docker containers at some point on this. Ideally at some point in the future there will be a GPU for plex transcoding in this too if the CPU is not enough. The last thing I need is an SFP+ NIC. I've been reading online people have been having lots of issues with the Intel X520 Cards. Do you have any suggestions for this? Thanks again

Hi all- I am planning on making a NAS for my home. I have most of the parts already laying around that I want to use. These are the current parts I already have: CPU: Intel Core i5-9600 3.1 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Crucial MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Crucial MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Storage: Western Digital Red Plus 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Operating System: TrueNAS Scale The parts I still need to pick out are a power supply, a motherboard, a rack-mount case (either 3 or 4u), and an HBA that is compatible with TrueNAS. Does anyone have any recommendations for these parts?

Hi all-- For my sister's birthday I want to get her a new pair of AirPods. Her's stopped working and they are the original AirPods. I wanted to get her the third gens but I was reading online that people have been having problems with the fit of them. I am currently between the AirPods 2 and 3. If anyone has any input on which way I should go I would appreciate it

Hi all, I need help planning an outdoor run for a UniFi Access point. It is going to be on the side of my deck in the backyard. I am planning on running a direct burial ethernet cable 18" below grade parallel to the 240V power for the hot tub (which will be run inside a PVC conduit) On the side of the house there is a PoE switch which powers PoE cameras that I am planning to pull from. What I am worried about is the possibility of a lightning strike hitting the ethernet cable in the ground. There are not many trees around, but with a hot tub full of water near the access point I figured it could be a possibility. I would run fiber to the access point, but that would mean I would need to put an additional power outlet on the deck to power the converter which would not make much sense since the outlets near the house are only about 30 feet away and because of how expensive wire currently is. The way around this that I thought of is to put an ethernet to fiber converter behind the PoE switch. In essence this is how it would go: Main Switch in Rack ---> Ethernet to Fiber Converter ---> Fiber to Ethernet Converter ---> PoE Switch ---> Direct Burial Ethernet Cable ---> WiFi Access point The Fiber would isolate the outdoor devices from the indoor which would limit the chances of anything in the rack or connected to ethernet from being damaged during a lightning strike. The only problem I see is the Fiber converters would be plugged into the same UPS as the outdoor PoE switch. I am not sure if that defeats the whole point or if that does not matter? Total run is about 125ft long from the orange to the purple in the map. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I am looking to upgrade the storage in my 2012 Mac mini. I am going to be using it in a strange project that I am working on and I need them to be relatively reliable. I only need 500GB drives. I was thinking about getting the Western Digital SA500 but they are relatively expensive for only 500GB drives. I was also looking at the Crucial MX500 but people have been reporting a high failure rate of the drives prematurely. These machines will be spending a relatively long amount of time on each day, but will shut down each night. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks