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megalodonkatsu

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System

  • CPU
    Intel i9-9900k
  • Motherboard
    MSI MPG Z390M
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3600mHz
  • GPU
    MSI RTX 3090 Ventus 3X OC
  • Case
    Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini
  • Storage
    1TB Crucial P1 M.2 SSD
    1TB Crucial MX500 M.2 SSD
    2TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD
  • PSU
    Cooler Master V850 SFX
  • Display(s)
    Samsung Odyssey G7 27"
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro X custom loop
  • Keyboard
    Razer BlackWidow X Chroma Mercury Edition
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 Pro
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

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  1. Ra Sushi in Abbotsford, Monviso in the Willoughby area in Langley are both great!
  2. 1. I did state that I have multiple questions. 2. Drop shipping as a buyer; Is there an advantage to ordering from a drop shipper as opposed to retail if manufacturers have trouble keeping up with demand? 3. Opinions on PC Canada, yes.
  3. A few questions here: Looking up drop shipping gave me a lot information on starting a drop shipping business, but next to nothing from the perspective of a buyer. Seeing as how drop shipping is essentially sourcing directly from the manufacturer, would it, in theory, be faster than waiting for a Canadian retailer to start stocking them? Or would I have to wait until backorders from various vendors are filled and stock levels stablize either way? Sketchiness and a worrying 25% restocking fee aside, anyone here used PC Canada before? Not to be confused with PC-Canada with a hyphen. Looking to get the 3080 Ventus OC and I'm wondering if their estimates are at all accurate, or if I'm better off waiting a month or two for my Amazon.ca order to go through.
  4. Had* a Seasonic Platinum Series Fanless 460* W at the time (not the 430W I wrote, my mistake). According to the review I linked, the 12V rail could carry basically all 460W by itself, so I never did confirm the actual problem and getting my current PSU fixed it anyway. Might've been overheating due to the fanless design? It's sitting in my family's every-day PC with no problems now.
  5. There's another thread about this in the PSU section: It's just something to discuss right now, and since not very many people have a 3080 at the moment, it might be worth it to wait a bit, or just to discuss general power supply issues, etc.
  6. I'm in the same boat (8700k, planning on getting 3080, paired with a Seasonic Snow Silent 650W Platinum PSU), so I'm definitely curious about the conversation around it. It seems mostly to be a peace of mind thing, but I've read that someone couldn't get their PC to post with the 3080 and a 650W PSU. Though I don't have a source for that. Anecdotally speaking, when I switched my 1060 3GB to a 1080, my 430W Platinum rated PSU started to trigger its power surge prevention whenever I played a game for over half an hour. A power meter I used showed my system never getting past 350W from the wall before shutting off, so technically I still had about 80W of headroom. Ended up upgrading to the 650W I have now, so I really don't want to upgrade again. Either way, I do plan on undervolting and setting a power limit; maybe that'll get me just a little bit more headroom for the 3080. The performance loss should be negligible, especially since its a straight upgrade from the 1080 to begin with.
  7. As long as you're not playing games or doing anything graphically intensive, the load on your GPU will be negligible. If I understand it correctly, you're basically asking for a laptop feature called NVIDIA Optimus, where the iGPU is used to save battery life. Honestly, just use your regular graphics card and don't worry about it.
  8. If you're trying to get video out from your iGPU then just plug your HDMI/Displayport or whichever cable, into the motherboard itself and not the graphics card.
  9. Disclaimer: This was first posted in the Storage Forum instead of Troubleshooting because I've outright bought a new drive to replace my SSD and this is more out of curiosity than wanting to solve it. So I've been having problems with my P1 SSD in my Asus UX480FD (Zenbook Pro 14) laptop. Symptoms include various random blue screens with error codes "DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION," "BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO," "KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR," and "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR". The first time I've encountered a blue screen was on opening the lid, browsing Firefox for a bit, then everything slowed to a crawl and eventually froze. At this point I restarted the computer only to boot into the bios with no drive detected. After a few reboots, I decided to remove the drive and reseat it (works for old cartridge games, right?) with no success. But after a few more reboots, the drive eventually started automatic repairs, although unsuccessfully. Now I could get into the reset menu, but if i boot normally, it stops getting detected by the bios until a few more reboots after that. I could now boot into safe mode, do nothing, and restart, and now everything is "fine" but after a while I would get the second and third blue screens, so I decided to refresh Windows (keeping my files). Everything seems fine after the refresh, but I once again got a blue screen randomly, then it was back to the bios with an undetected boot drive. I confirmed that the problem was the drive itself by putting it into both of the M.2 slots in my desktop mobo to test them, with both slots saying it was empty when I had the SSD in it. Using Crucial Storage Executive, I updated the P1 to the latest firmware version as of yesterday (07/06). The program says the drive is in good health, but SMART values were not able to be shown, and every value was a 0. There were also some I/O errors opening some of the tabs in that program. At this point, I'm really just curious as to what's wrong with my drive; I put it back in my laptop and now it "works" but sometimes still boots into the bios and I have to restart it a few times for it to boot into Windows. Are there any viruses or bad drivers that might cause this kind of issue? Specifically, anything that might result it being only sometimes not detected by the bios, but sometimes still able to boot into it?
  10. Disclaimer: Posting this in the Storage Forum instead of Troubleshooting because I've outright bought a new drive to replace my SSD and this is more out of curiosity than wanting to solve it. So I've been having problems with my P1 SSD in my Asus UX480FD (Zenbook Pro 14) laptop. Symptoms include various random blue screens with error codes "DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION," "BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO," "KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR," and "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR". The first time I've encountered a blue screen was on opening the lid, browsing Firefox for a bit, then everything slowed to a crawl and eventually froze. At this point I restarted the computer only to boot into the bios with no drive detected. After a few reboots, I decided to remove the drive and reseat it (works for old cartridge games, right?) with no success. But after a few more reboots, the drive eventually started automatic repairs, although unsuccessfully. Now I could get into the reset menu, but if i boot normally, it stops getting detected by the bios until a few more reboots after that. I could now boot into safe mode, do nothing, and restart, and now everything is "fine" but after a while I would get the second and third blue screens, so I decided to refresh Windows (keeping my files). Everything seems fine after the refresh, but I once again got a blue screen randomly, then it was back to the bios with an undetected boot drive. I confirmed that the problem was the drive itself by putting it into both of the M.2 slots in my desktop mobo to test them, with both slots saying it was empty when I had the SSD in it. Using Crucial Storage Executive, I updated the P1 to the latest firmware version as of yesterday (07/06). The program says the drive is in good health, but SMART values were not able to be shown, and every value was a 0. There were also some I/O errors opening some of the tabs in that program. At this point, I'm really just curious as to what's wrong with my drive; I put it back in my laptop and now it "works" but sometimes still boots into the bios and I have to restart it a few times for it to boot into Windows. Are there any viruses or bad drivers that might cause this kind of issue? Specifically, anything that might result it being only sometimes not detected by the bios, but sometimes still able to boot into it?
  11. Asus Zenbook Pro 14 UX480FD, when and if it releases in Canada/US. You've already covered a related product but this specific model might be interesting to know about. Comes with a GTX 1050 Max-Q, which not very many people know exists, and an 8565U/8265U CPU. I got mine at a very good price (outside of Canada) but I have a feeling that if it's released into the western market, price might be a big turn-off for most people. https://www.asus.com/Laptops/ASUS-ZenBook-Pro-14-UX480FD/
  12. The thing is, this hasn't happened before I swapped in my new 1080. And if it's worth mentioning, PCIe cable is also the same 6+2 pin connector; 6 pin for the previous 1060, and +2 for the 1080. Still, thanks for the suggestions, I'll see what Seasonic says.
  13. My computer just cuts out power and restarts, with the POST saying “power surge detected” and something about ASUS anti-surge protection. It tells me to enter the bios, and after a quick restart I can boot up windows and things are as normal for a bit. Also I’m at work right now so I won’t be able to respond much atm, but I’ll try to respond in as much detail as my short break times can let me.
  14. Hello everyone, got a bit of a problem here trying to diagnose the cause of the power surges I've been getting recently. I've currently got an admittedly not-so-balanced system (been upgrading piecemeal recently, and wasn't as knowledgable as I am now). The specs when I built it two years ago are: i5 6600, Asus H170m plus, GTX 1060 3gb, Corsair Vengeance 16gb 2666mHz Seasonic Fanless 460W PSU Against a couple of recommendations, I got a lower wattage power supply, thinking it would be enough, and it was at the time. But I hadn't accounted for wanting to upgrade, especially so soon. I just upgraded the RAM and GPU to: 16gb Viper 3200mHz, and GTX 1080 respectively. I am fully aware that my mobo does not support the ram clocks of my new ram (or the old one for that matter). I am also aware of the 500W PSU recommendation of the 1080, and my 460W, high quality as it is, may not be enough. However, I have my computer plugged into a watt meter, and it sits at 40-50W idle and at MOST 300W under gaming load, which is still well under the "100W below max load" or around "40-60% of PSU wattage load". It should also be worth noting that I did not get a power surge after playing Shadow of War at 300W load, whereas I got it playing Warframe at 230W load. So far I can just enter and exit the BIOS on prompt and restart as normal, but it does worry me a little, especially if it keeps happening. Is there anything I could do to test where and why the power surges are occurring? I also already sold my 1060 so I don't have that available to swap back in.
  15. Thanks for the reply; I have an Asus S46C, bought in Taiwan, so I'm not sure if a similar or different version of the same model is sold here in North America.
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