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Anghammarad

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  • Content Count

    1,943
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About Anghammarad

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday 1976-02-17

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hamburg, Germany
  • Biography
    Started with computers at the age of 6. An Atari 800XL with tapedeck. Then a C128, Amiga 500, Amiga 1200 (which I still own and care for, moved from the keyboard to a tower, 2 CPUs 1 FPU, 1 MMU, FastSCSI II, 2 CD Drives, 3 Harddrives, 10 megs ram). Then later switched to PC and windows/linux. Build my own firewall/router on linux and used it until it hardware died. Found a wife that was handy with computers as well, and who joined me in my online gaming hobby. We both were an awesome duo, but then 15. April of 2016 she died of a heart attack. Now I'm a solo camper again missing her very much. Else I still like to create computer builds for me/her, friends regarding budget and what it's used for to get most bang for the buck invested. Most times the systems I configure outperform more expensive ones. I like to use midrange hardware like GTX X60 versions, and on the intel side the I5, and then mostly using things, one generation old. Why that you may ask, if there isn't a change in the cpu socket type in the next one or two generations, you can easily upgrade. And to be honest, from the I5 3570k to the new I5 6600k the performance gain is measurable, but do you really feel it in the daily use?

    So that's for now =)
  • Occupation
    IT System Architect

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core I5 3570K @4.3 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asrock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional
  • RAM
    2x 8 GB ADATA AX3U2133W8G10-DR, XPG V1.0
  • GPU
    Gainward Poenix GS 1060
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define XL R2 Titanium
  • Storage
    Crucial MX100 256GB, ST2000DX001, WDC5002ABYS
  • PSU
    CoolerMaster V550
  • Display(s)
    Benq GL 2460
  • Cooling
    EKL Alpenfoehn Gotthard
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Sidewinder X4
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX Preformance
  • Sound
    Onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional 64 Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

5,306 profile views
  1. Sounds like faulty wiring from the front panel. Time to bring the case back where you got it for repair or swap out.
  2. There are several Modder Cases in the wild, that have been made from wood. Now not regarding any desk builds, the most desktop builds still had some metal pieces to hold the parts... Else keep some distance to the wood with standoffs so that there is no direct connection with the parts that get hot. and keep in mind a good air ventialtion/cooling. If the wood gets smoldering, then there is something seriously wrong with the case/mod/system.
  3. Well that behavior I know from a lot of custom build work computers... they went to a on off loop... it was always the PSU in that cases.
  4. without knowing what is inside that open case, my tipp would be PSU fault
  5. The fanless Seasonics are tested in a 40° C hot room for a stresstest and a long period of time. Just as a note about the Fanless ones... How reliable... well 12 years warranty, that says a little
  6. A NAS with Nextcloud or Owncloud. Every user could get their own login account and user restrictions can be set to the folders/collections. There even are Android Apps for those Clouds. But keep in mind you need either have a permanent IP on the internet connection or use a service like DynDNS so the address to connect the clients to from the outside is always the same. Aslo keep in mind the safety of the system/network. (firewall, portforwarding, NAT)
  7. Try to go for Intel or Melanox 10g adapters... but no matter what brand, those beasts need cooling... so the cases need a good airflow cooling that cards.
  8. even if an older model I currently use the Cooler Master V550 in several systems... it is with a fan, but you won't ever hear it. Well I don't not in a cheap case, neither in a fractal design Define XL2 If money isn't a problem you could also go for a seasonic platinum fanless PSU... but this is a totally different pricerange
  9. Several issues play into this... first the disk/array/controller you read the data from, the NIC configration of the server, then the machine receiving the data, that data array config/disks/controller and the NIC config... 250 MByte/Sec are roughly 4 Gbit/Sec. the SATA interface is capable (the current ones) of 6gbit/sec per disk. So if reading from only one drive and not an array, 250 mbyte are quite nice. If one of the parties is a NAS like QNAP or Synology for example, well those may have 10 gbit nics, but usually don't have the cpu power needed to sturate that connection.
  10. OK. sollte checkdisk was finden und beheben, mach wenn das System wieder oben ist in der cmd auch noch mal nen SFC /scannow um die Windows Dateien selber auf Konsistenz zu checken.
  11. OK dann sind die Platten ja noch gut. Dann bitte mal den chkdsk /f /r in der CMD eingeben und bestätigen, dann rebooten. Das wird ein paar minuten dauern.
  12. Das klingt fast nach einer defekten Platte oder korrupten Filesystem. Sounds like a faulty filesystem or defect HDD/SSD. Kann auch bei instabilen Übertakten passieren... Einmal Crystal Disk Info herunterladen, installieren und anwerfen. So eine Platte nen defekt hat und SMART unterstützt, wird dir Crystal Disk Info sagen, ob eine der Platten kurz vor dem Ableben ist. So Crystal Disk info nichts Besorgnis erregendes ausgibt, in der cmd mal " chkdsk /f /r " ausführen und neu starten. Damit sollten deine Platten nach dem Reboot einmal überprüft werden.
  13. I saw that. no not a flow indicator... If a quick and dirtiy ascii art helps side view): top ______ /______\ | FAN | |__/ \__| | CPU | | block |===== loop hose ------------ so the air would be pushed down around the whole water block due to the down pushing fan. The sides were open and slits in the top, which the fan was attached to.
  14. A WIFI Mesh will only ramp up your latency more. He states Wifi will fluctuate in speed and latency. His other hints were to use Powerline adapters. Those you plug in your power outlet in the wall and connect a ethernet cable to it form the router you need, put another one of the Powerline adapters in a power outlet in your room and connect your computers ethernet cable to that one. But for that to work the electric circuits in your home need to be connected. Some electrical devices even disturb the powerline signal like a microwave for example.
  15. That I only know for WLAN and there it is called Mesh. As for googling "Configuring LAN on -router name-" should do the trick.
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