IAmAndre

I also just realized that M1 MBP's are no longer available on the Apple Store. This might explain why they want to get rid of them.

Hi guys, I just came across a few nice deals on B&H. It's a website I love shopping on but unfortunately they don't ship (new) Apple products overseas (at least to my country). I thought this would be a good deal for US-based customers: - 16.2" MacBook Pro with M1 Max Chip (Late 2021, Space Gray), 64GB Unified RAM | 4TB SSD, 32-Core GPU | 16-Core Neural Engine for $3,199 instead of $4,899 - 14.2" MacBook Pro with M1 Max Chip (Late 2021, Space Gray), 64GB Unified RAM | 2TB SSD, 32-Core GPU | 16-Core Neural Engine for $2,499 instead of $4,099 Both deals are valid until June 23rd. I hope this will help someone. With that said, I'm very curious to know how the pricing works at Apple and its retailers. I can't think of any laptop manufacturer/reseller offering such large discounts, and I believe that even at this price they are still making some profit. This shows how much margin Apple is making with their usual pricing strategy. Cheers!

I see, then I think their answer was appropriate. They could have mentioned temperature goals but I think most people understand that spending more on fans is usually for acoustic and aesthetic reasons rather than performance. I personally decided to have many fans in order to make them run more slowly. So I have plenty of them but never bothered fiddling with fan speeds. I'll give this a try and see how it goes.

Am I missing something? What's wrong with $30 fans? Each of my case fans definitely cost less.

Yes, I should definitely play with the fan curves as mentioned before. This seems to be the only option I have as there seems to be more than enough air intake in the case.

I am definitely not undervolting, overclocking, or doing any fiddling like that (I guess that's why I like MacBooks) and I'm too poor to buy ANC headphones. I actually like playing with speakers instead of headphones.

I probably should have mentioned that I have quite a lot of case fans. That's 2x140mm fans (bottom and top) and 3x120 fans (front). However I don't hear those fans, it's mostly the ones on the CPU cooler and the GPU. That's the type of things I hate to do but I'll definitely give it a try and monitor the CPU and GPU temperatures.

Hi, I've been using a gaming desktop that I built a few years ago and I'm getting tired of the fans going crazy when I'm gaming, and sometimes even when I'm doing nothing. This contrasts a lot with my dead-silent MacBook Air so I'm considering investing in higher end MacBook and maybe a handheld console. The full specs are available on my profile. It has a Ryzen 5 2600X cooled by an Arctic CPU cooler in a two-fan configuration, along with a 3070 from Gigabyte. I can hear the CPU cooler all the time, but I suspect it's because I used some cheap thermal compound last summer, which probably needs to be replaced. However, I could still hear it before that although it was less audible. The problem though is the GPU. I mostly play RTS games and AAA action games. It's usually silent, but then it goes crazy 20 minutes or so in an Age of Empires game as the map gets loaded with units and buildings. The same thing happens in complex scenes in games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider. I'm getting more and more sensitive to this, because the GPU fans are very audible although the PC is on the floor. It's not as bad as my previous graphics card, which was a Vega 56, but it's still very annoying. I play in 3840x1600 but I usually lock the frame rate at 60 (although my monitor can go all the way to 160Hz, I really don't see any difference above 60 FPS so I'd rather keep the noise levels and power consumption low). One of the common arguments justifying getting a gaming desktop over a gaming laptop is the noise levels, but at this point it really doesn't apply to my situation. What options can I use other than a custom loop?

Hi there, I've been using a MacBook Air for about a year and a half as my second computer, the first one being a gaming desktop. I'm using a Logitech MX Master 3 on both devices, but when on the Mac, I always end up using the trackpad instead. The mouse experience feels so awkward and the worst part is I just can't pinpoint why I find it awkward. It's the same hardware, but I keep missing clicks on the Mac and I just can't get used to it. I tried playing with the mouse settings, both at the OS level and in the companion app but no combination seems to help. For example, I tried playing with the cursor speed but it's always either too fast or too slow. I also tried enabling and disabling options like "smooth scrolling" but the experience is always so awkward. Am I missing something or is it just in my head? Or maybe is it just a fact that mice behave differently on MacOS?

Thanks. So I found a temporary fix after because I've been suggested earlier to set it as an AP, and as I was googling how to do it, I found this tutorial video from TP-Link: https://youtu.be/dpmO10tSStA Now the thing is I didn't have to follow through the video. I just reset the router, and right after I plugged in the cable in the WAN port, everything started working fine. I had nothing to do, and I haven't had any disconnection so far. I hope I didn't mess up anything though. I'll see if the disconnections actually disappeared for good, otherwise I'll look into implementing your solution.

Hi, So I have issues on my home network, which consists in a main router in the living, connected to a switch, which is then connected to the ethernet ports across the house. I have a TP-Link VR400 in my office, connected to the wall ethernet port. The problem is I'm getting frequent disconnections, especially on my MacBook. So every 5 minutes or so, I'm disconnected for at least 30 seconds. I have been advised to 1) change the IP address on the TP-Link to something other than 192.168.1.1 since it's the address used by the main router and 2) disable DHCP on the TP-Link to avoid any conflicts. The problem is when I set the IP to 192.168.1.5 for example, I get no internet at all, with DHCP disabled or not. I think I'm missing something. What would be the process to have the TP-Link router connected to the main router using an address other than 192.168.1.1? Thanks

Hi, So I recently moved to a new house and I'm having some internet issues. I have fiber at home at 100mbps and I'm able to get that speed on some devices but not on others. I have the main router installed in the living room by my ISP, which is then linked to a central box that handles the ethernet ports in every room of the house. I then installed my own router in my bedroom/office. My main PC is connected to this router via an ethernet cable and I'm able to get full speed without any problem. My phone also connects to this router via WiFi and it works just fine. Now when I try to use my Mac on that router, I'm often disconnected. So I still appear as "connected" to the network, but every 5-10 minutes I have no internet access for about a minute. Every time this happens, all my other devices are working just fine, I can use the internet at full speed on them. For example, I can't watch a Twitch steam on the Mac, I have to use my phone to avoid interruptions. This morning, it went even worse because I had no internet at all on the Mac. I rebooted it and it went back to working as before with a disconnection every now and then. Now this only happens on this particular network. I never encountered this issue on any other WiFi network. It does happen a bit when I connect the Mac to the main router provided by the ISP, but it's much rarer. What could be the issue here? Now I also have a similar issue, but on my TV. It's a new TV so I don't know if the TV has an issue or not, but it's connected via WiFi to the main router. Again, all devices work fine besides the TV. When I test the internet speed using the built-in web browser, I'm getting around 30-50 mbps, which should be more enough for YouTube. However, I often have playback issues, with videos pausing sometimes for several minutes. This happens more often with 4K 60fps videos but even regular videos pause every now and then. There is a network troubleshooting tool on the TV and when I use it, it sometimes shows that the TV properly connected to the router, but the router doesn't have internet access. When this happens, all the other devices are able to connect to the internet just fine. So I'm quite confused right now. Why is it that some devices don't seem to like that router while other work just fine? Could it be that the router is faulty, or are there any steps I could take to troubleshoot the issue? Thanks

Yes that's what I thought, but considering that I won't be using a NAS or do any significant local data transfer, I think I could have gotten away with something cheaper. Anyway, it's good to hear that it's not a waste money and it could be still useful down the line.

What's the advantage of getting a 2-2.5Gbps switch when the internet speed is only 100mbps? I might do some streaming down the line but 99% of the time I'd be using my desktop for working and gaming, while my mom would be using her phone for WhatsApp and web browsing.

Yes, at least in my room. He came to check last time and there was an RJ45 cable inside. Yes, but they did it in a weird way because even the TV cables and probably other cables are in the same central box. This combined to my low network knowledge makes me reluctant to do it myself.

Exactly. That's what he's going to do. I would do it myself if I wasn't so bad at networking. Now they are charging me $55 for the switch. Am I getting ripped?

Hi, Before starting, my networking knowledge is quite limited so I'll try my best to explain things in the best way possible considering my level of understanding of the situation. So I moved to a new house and had my ISP set up my 100mbps fiber internet. Problem: they set up their own outlet/box, so while I'm able to connect to their router, I can't use the Ethernet ports present in every room of the house. I reached out to the ISP and they told that they don't handle "domestic" installations so I'd need to hire a 3rd party to connect the Ethernet ports in the house to their installation. So I called a technician and they sent me an invoice, in which they mentioned among a few other things a 2Gbps switch that should be connected from the ISP's router to the house's network. I wanted to cheap out on this part and asked if we couldn't just use an old router of mine configured as a switch. Their answer was that it would be possible but only if it had a 2Gbps bandwidth. So now my question is why do they require a 2Gbps bandwidth when my internet speed is only 100Mbps? Even if I was streaming games locally, why would 2Gbps be a requirement?

In my opinion, it shouldn't be too hard to implement it well. They already know which devices are connected to a single account i.e they send you a notification when a new device logs in to your account. If I were Netflix I'd just take advantage of this and ask you to pick which devices should be allowed. Adobe does the same with its products and nobody's complaining, although the situation a bit different.

Wow these Chinese brands look insane. I'll try to get my hands on one of these. OK I'm biased because the Samsung looks so much slimmer compared to all these that I tend to like it anyway. I know thinness isn't everything but the Samsung just has a better design.

Hi guys, So my mom will be out all day tomorrow and her TV died last week so I'd like to surprise her with a new one. My budget is around $500 but I can extend it a bit if it's justified. I've visited some shops today and I'd need your help to pick one of the 3 models I shortlisted. For context, her previous TV was a 43" full HD model from Hisense bought about 10 years ago. She isn't technical at all but she'll appreciate having a larger one. I also want it to look good (very flat with small bezels). I'll probably be using it too every now and then for watching YouTube and sports events. Here are the 3 models I need to choose from: LG 55UP75 at $600: over my budget but I like the extra screen size. I'm not sure if the extra money is justified considering how chunky it looks but it has a ton of good reviews on Amazon, at different sizes. Samsung AU8070 at $580, which is the Italian version of the AU8000: still over my budget but 50". It looks gorgeous irl. Flat, small bezels and great picture quality. Rtings reviewed the AU8000 and mentioned poor vision angles, but I haven't noticed this irl. I'm no expert but I know a bit about TV's and monitors. Samsung AU7700 at $420: that one is well within the budget but it's only 43". It seems to have more features than the others TV's in this price range, such as Bixby integration and the 4K panel, and it also has good reviews online. So which one would you recommend going for? Thanks!

Ok I managed to get it. I was checking the Director's Cut version, which isn't the one currently free. My bad.

It's not free anymore for some reason. It went from Unavailable to $13. Typical Epic shit.