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I've seen people talking and asking a good amount of questions about these aspects lately - I'm guessing both caused by the improvements to creative workload performance-value with Ryzen 3000-series and the sheer brute force with now decent clock speeds, of Threadripper 3000-series. And, how does it fare without hw accellerated [en/de/trans]coding. So I'll try to fill in a gap, as this thread is already well informative and not too bloated.
 
By my personal experience - yes. At least with Adobe and suitable render loads. While its most recent iterations makes significantly better use of both multithread and GPU accelleration than historically, GPU usage is still very often in the 20s to low 30%s. So a superbeast GPU instead of a solid but more humanely priced GPU, might not actually make as big a difference as quicksync can/will, as the GPU isn't taxed anywhere near its potential. Where quicksync hw accelleration is available and supported, it will still make a very decent contribution. It will not make ie. a 9900k outperform a 3960X (or even a 3950x) at Adobe rendering, but as to your question; there will still be quite notable gains with quicksync, everything else being equal. For H264 that is.
 
With other workloads and setups, YMMV of course.
 
In regards to Intel and any offering desktop SKUs physically without an iGPU; Economy of scale, and profit margins. Sales pricing of CPUs don't really scale with physical silicon size, not at these die sizes vs volumes. The vast, vast bulk of sales pricing is recuperating RnD and overall operations expensed, and profit margin. Die physical size is technically and financially relevant, but at the consumer end of the transaction, price is what people are willing to pay - usually near or at the pain threshold. Price is somewhat arbitrary, and Intel would never cut pricing to any *substantial* degree, for "the same" CPU sans iGPU. The math on this is likely to change ovee the next few years, as cost per die and wafer is posed to go through the roof with the coming (and in-work) smaller nodes.

Thank you for the kind feedback.
 
I've always been a big fan of creative, DIY mods, and never shied away from bringing out the powertools and breadboards/protoboards. So the moment I saw this little gem, modding thought kicked into overdrive hard ? I now have like 6 of them lying in wait for future mods and ideas.
 
This has been my first custom WC loop/setup though, a perfect project for the tinkering modder. I was aiming for a pick-and-choose AliExpress loop myself, but got reeeally lucky on a couple of 2nd hand market deals, so the core components of my loop are EKWB, but I ended up around the same total cost estimate. Only significant change of design plans was going from 2x360 AliExpress rads to 240+480 EKWB rads. Took a bit of cutting to shed the optical bay cage and arrange secure mounting, but it ultimately made space for 480mm EK rad at front intake. Ample room, at least 2-3mm to spare in my Obsidian 750D! ? Well all core parts EKWB except for the very recent 1080ti block, which i got still sealed with my 2nd hand purchase of the GPU. Up until a few weeks ago I was running 2x980ti with EK fullcover blocks.
 
I do have a bunch of fittings and smaller parts from Ali though; flow indicator, 45° and 90° swivel fittings, extenders, adapters, plugs, plugs with throughholes for sensors, and valve etc. Swivel fittings were closer to $1.50 than the more typical $10-15 with eg. Bitspower. They look and feel identical to Bitspower - so I suspect these are "nightshift runs" of the same thing, B-grade sorted Bitspower fittings due to minor cosmetic defects, or really good knock-offs. I got one that was very soft and leaking, but all others were nice and tight, and at that price I did order spares. Also got a bunch of replacement O-rings as I wasn't 100% comfortable with the old seals on some of the 2nd hand parts. Also got 11.2mm drill bit, G1/4-19 threading tap and same size die, for making custom parts and fittings. Dirt cheap and very reasonable quality, just gotta educate yourself on what to look out for, and sifting through reviews to irk out the genuine ones.
 
Compression fittings I got most of them with the other 2nd hand EK stuff, only needed 2 extra, so I stuck with the same EK ones for that. For being "EKWB quality", EK's fittings are actually fairly cheap. At least if you buy them from EKWB directly.

I already wrote this up really nice and tidy, and had a power outage. This time will be quick n' dirty.

I came across this cheap, nifty little gem for those of us who like informative mods and "tools" - and put it to work. It's a nifty little LED display with controller for 10K thermistor display. Temps in Celsius. It is really small and discreet, visible through your case window even in daylight, but no so intense as to be distracting in darkness. Can be used with any 10k thermistor probe, doesn't have to be an in-loop one.

For what I did with it, you'll need:
Mini LED display - $3 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) G1/4" Plug with 10k thermistor temperatire sensor - $2 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) Some scrap leads and heatshrink Molex / Sata / USB / whatever adapter you can splice into for +12V and GND (aything between 4-28VDC will do) Soldering iron and solder Something for cutting and cleaning up a square hole in a spare PCI slot cover - dremel, file, drill etc.
Display looks like this:

 
Black and red power leads are way too short to be of any use for this. Desolder them, solder on scrap leads of ample length for tidy cable routing. Solder or otherwise wire other ends to +12V and GND on a molex / sata adapter, or another suitable source.

Cable length on the G1/4" thermal sensor plug is way to short - extend as you need, solder joints and heatshrink over solder joints. Install the plug in suitable location in your water loop, using a free spot or a splitter/T block.

Mark around the opening in the rear case panel, onto the PCI slot cover while it's installed.
Cut ~23x10mm hole in the cover (Due to the design of my slot covers, I had no area to drill holes for screw mounting, so made the hole precise - friction fit for the display housing). Cut between the markings you made before, to make sure no part of the hole is covered up by the rear panel of the case when installing the bracket.
Cut another hole, or a slot out towards the endge, in the slot cover for pulling the cables back into the case. If you cut a slot all the way down, it might save you some hassle routing the cable for power, as those two cables are soldered to the display PCB, not socketed. In my case I opened the space between a couple of the original holes. Some cable sleeving can be good, but optional.


Pull the cables through the slot, install slot cover, pop the display in the hole from the outside pointing in. Oh and I used a black marker to color the white sides of the display housing. Slot cover got a bit scuffed up while filing the edges of the square hole, if you're picky about that, cover it in painters tape while working on it.



 
Display can be had in other colors than red. Different temperature probes exist, any 10k thermistor will do (one is included with the display, fine for air temps. Listing says it's waterproof, I haven't tested that).
Due to the small size and cost, doubling up on these and having one pre, one post the waterblocks could be nifty.

Feel free to bring any questions, ideas and suggestions.

I already wrote this up really nice and tidy, and had a power outage. This time will be quick n' dirty.

I came across this cheap, nifty little gem for those of us who like informative mods and "tools" - and put it to work. It's a nifty little LED display with controller for 10K thermistor display. Temps in Celsius. It is really small and discreet, visible through your case window even in daylight, but no so intense as to be distracting in darkness. Can be used with any 10k thermistor probe, doesn't have to be an in-loop one.

For what I did with it, you'll need:
Mini LED display - $3 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) G1/4" Plug with 10k thermistor temperatire sensor - $2 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) Some scrap leads and heatshrink Molex / Sata / USB / whatever adapter you can splice into for +12V and GND (aything between 4-28VDC will do) Soldering iron and solder Something for cutting and cleaning up a square hole in a spare PCI slot cover - dremel, file, drill etc.
Display looks like this:

 
Black and red power leads are way too short to be of any use for this. Desolder them, solder on scrap leads of ample length for tidy cable routing. Solder or otherwise wire other ends to +12V and GND on a molex / sata adapter, or another suitable source.

Cable length on the G1/4" thermal sensor plug is way to short - extend as you need, solder joints and heatshrink over solder joints. Install the plug in suitable location in your water loop, using a free spot or a splitter/T block.

Mark around the opening in the rear case panel, onto the PCI slot cover while it's installed.
Cut ~23x10mm hole in the cover (Due to the design of my slot covers, I had no area to drill holes for screw mounting, so made the hole precise - friction fit for the display housing). Cut between the markings you made before, to make sure no part of the hole is covered up by the rear panel of the case when installing the bracket.
Cut another hole, or a slot out towards the endge, in the slot cover for pulling the cables back into the case. If you cut a slot all the way down, it might save you some hassle routing the cable for power, as those two cables are soldered to the display PCB, not socketed. In my case I opened the space between a couple of the original holes. Some cable sleeving can be good, but optional.


Pull the cables through the slot, install slot cover, pop the display in the hole from the outside pointing in. Oh and I used a black marker to color the white sides of the display housing. Slot cover got a bit scuffed up while filing the edges of the square hole, if you're picky about that, cover it in painters tape while working on it.



 
Display can be had in other colors than red. Different temperature probes exist, any 10k thermistor will do (one is included with the display, fine for air temps. Listing says it's waterproof, I haven't tested that).
Due to the small size and cost, doubling up on these and having one pre, one post the waterblocks could be nifty.

Feel free to bring any questions, ideas and suggestions.

I already wrote this up really nice and tidy, and had a power outage. This time will be quick n' dirty.

I came across this cheap, nifty little gem for those of us who like informative mods and "tools" - and put it to work. It's a nifty little LED display with controller for 10K thermistor display. Temps in Celsius. It is really small and discreet, visible through your case window even in daylight, but no so intense as to be distracting in darkness. Can be used with any 10k thermistor probe, doesn't have to be an in-loop one.

For what I did with it, you'll need:
Mini LED display - $3 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) G1/4" Plug with 10k thermistor temperatire sensor - $2 (Got mine here: AliExpress ) Some scrap leads and heatshrink Molex / Sata / USB / whatever adapter you can splice into for +12V and GND (aything between 4-28VDC will do) Soldering iron and solder Something for cutting and cleaning up a square hole in a spare PCI slot cover - dremel, file, drill etc.
Display looks like this:

 
Black and red power leads are way too short to be of any use for this. Desolder them, solder on scrap leads of ample length for tidy cable routing. Solder or otherwise wire other ends to +12V and GND on a molex / sata adapter, or another suitable source.

Cable length on the G1/4" thermal sensor plug is way to short - extend as you need, solder joints and heatshrink over solder joints. Install the plug in suitable location in your water loop, using a free spot or a splitter/T block.

Mark around the opening in the rear case panel, onto the PCI slot cover while it's installed.
Cut ~23x10mm hole in the cover (Due to the design of my slot covers, I had no area to drill holes for screw mounting, so made the hole precise - friction fit for the display housing). Cut between the markings you made before, to make sure no part of the hole is covered up by the rear panel of the case when installing the bracket.
Cut another hole, or a slot out towards the endge, in the slot cover for pulling the cables back into the case. If you cut a slot all the way down, it might save you some hassle routing the cable for power, as those two cables are soldered to the display PCB, not socketed. In my case I opened the space between a couple of the original holes. Some cable sleeving can be good, but optional.


Pull the cables through the slot, install slot cover, pop the display in the hole from the outside pointing in. Oh and I used a black marker to color the white sides of the display housing. Slot cover got a bit scuffed up while filing the edges of the square hole, if you're picky about that, cover it in painters tape while working on it.



 
Display can be had in other colors than red. Different temperature probes exist, any 10k thermistor will do (one is included with the display, fine for air temps. Listing says it's waterproof, I haven't tested that).
Due to the small size and cost, doubling up on these and having one pre, one post the waterblocks could be nifty.

Feel free to bring any questions, ideas and suggestions.

Any plans for there being a NAW show archive at all, on Floatplane? Linus wasn't wrong on yesterdays show, about the audio quality (Floatplane >> YouTube). Unless I'm missing something, it does make sense to be able to enjoy it in all its floaty, planey goodness. And I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one that rarely get to catch the live stream; it runs at like 3.30AM here, and generally between 2-4/5AM across Europe. 

I'm here!

I'm afraid too. Hold me.

Off-topic not affecting post count is actually pretty common. It's a strange thing, but there are users who shit post just to boost their post count.
 
This lets us prevent that behavior while still allowing people to have random/off-topic discussions.

Is there hope for his eventual return? It wasn't just the accent we loved, it was his personality.

Ah yes. You're gonna want to reformat the SSD as GPT for UEFI compatability. Unless you need it, I would advice against running in legacy mode just to avoid formating the SSD to keep it as MBR (which I don't imagine will pose a problem as you're reinstalling your OS anyway).It can pose all kinds of headaches down the road, and the only way of changing it is reformat and reinstall OS.

Lookie here - it gives instructions on how to boot as UEFI (not legacy), with a Windows 10 DVD or USB bootable drive/stick/device/memorycard/potato, and perform the format to GPT (if you're getting this error I expect you have a bootable install available at hand). About 2/3s down the page, look for sub-headline "To manually wipe a drive and convert it to GPT"

Personally, seeing as there is no VRM heatsink at all on that board and you're planning a "permanent" overclock, I would probably feel more comfortable in the long run with sticking either one heatsink cut to fit, or a couple of smaller ones, on the MOSFETs, and see to it that there is actually a bit of air passing over them. I'm thinking generic heatsinks for smaller components here, not something custom (beyond cutting one to fit perfectly if you want to go that route). Just google "vram heatsink" and you'll understand what I mean if unclear. These can be had in pretty much any shape and size for dirt cheap, and lots of different colors, so finding some that go with your asthetics without needing to paint them, is rarely a problem. I would probably get some 20-30mm tall, if there is no space conflict with CPU cooler etc. Some of them do come with thermal adhesive tape-pads, although quality and adhesive properties of those can be a bit shoddy for the very cheapest heatsinks. For this usecase, I would personally consider using a proper thermal adhesive though (although that does mean they won't be coming off again). And try to make sure that if you go with a heatsink with long fins instead of "individual bars", that the fins are oriented vertically when in place, not horizontal. Heat rising and all that.

This might not stricly be absolutely neccessary, but given how little it costs in both effort and dineros, I would personally feel alot more comfortable with some simple generic heatsinks on those MOSFETs.

To say it the least. I know this thread is a few months old, but users will be finding this thread when wondering wether or not to do this - so I evaluate the importance of this to outweigh the lukewarm necro.

It cannot be understated - Do not, under any circumstances, apply Liquid Metal TIMs to anthing aluminium! It is not like "it won't be very effective", or "it can cause some discoloration and possible harm to your aluminum parts given enough time". While theoretically correct, this does NOT reflect the extreme nature of this reaction.

Liquid metal TIMs containing gallium WILL turn aluminium into a crumbling crud in a matter of hours! This does not just apply to the surface area that the TIM is in contact with - the gallium can and will migrate throughout the entire aluminium structure. Once started there is no practical way to stop this reaction, sans cutting away the affected part. It would be somewhat analogous to trying to wipe dry a rapidly deteriorating and crumbling metal spounge; a moot task.

There are plenty of videos on YT demonstrating this reaction with aluminum heatsinks and the various popular liquid metal TIMs (not just pure gallium). If you're even just entertaining the thought of applying liquid metal TIM to any aluminum part, please take a few minutes to watch some of those videos first.

There are plenty of alternative options for improving VRM cooling besides the blocks included with the Fomula. Anything from ensuring decent airflow to the stock heatsink, to custom / adjustable 3rd party VRM water blocks. All of which will get the job done, well, at a far lower price tag than the price gap between Hero and Formula. It all depends on your preferences, wants and needs. If the Hero covers these except for VRM cooling, I would suggest going with that, and start with airflow - that will assist in cooling other nearby components aswell. Procure (unless you already have (access to)) a thermocouple or other suitable measuring equipment, and observe actual VRM temperature during your overclocking adventures. Unless the temperatures actually turn out to go worryingly high, there would be no need to progress the cooling ladder further. The several hundred dollar gap between Hero and Formula would in this case be much better spent elsewhere. Don't know about Suomi prices, but here in Norway the price difference between Hero and Formula isn't far from the gap between a 1070 and a 1080ti. There is always the "because I can" / "because I want to" element - but thats a whole different matter, and really not subject to the same criteria.

I haven't used floatplane so I can't validate any of what OP said, but let's assume that these are all things he has genuinely experienced. The things people say to defend LTT are quite frankly hilariously illogical and silly.
 
 
Well if nobody says what the problems are then it will be really hard for anyone to know what to focus on. You need to voice your concerns in order for the developers to know what needs improvements.
 
No, you should not pay a monthly subscription for something in the hopes that the service you are currently displeased with will get better in the future. If you are not satisfied then you should voice your reasons why you're not satisfied (so that the developers know) and then cancel and possibly give them another chance in the future.
That's what it means to vote with your wallet. Don't pay for something you don't like. If everyone just keeps saying then there is no intensive for them to improve the service.
 
Because the thread is called "reasons why you should not get floatplane club"? Doesn't really make sense to list all the positives in a thread about why OP is displeased.
You don't go "hey I am displeased with this restaurant, so let me tell you about how comfy their chairs are!".
 
It is completely fair to complain about a service or product, even if it is free or not finished. Giving feedback (or as people like to call it, "bitch") is extremely important for the development of a service.
 
Labeling something a "beta" or "free" are not shields that makes the product immune to criticism.
That's a really crappy analogy since cooking pasta is something you have to do yourself when buying it. In your example it is a problem that the person paying can fix himself. A better analogy would be that floatplane club is like hiring a chef to serve you pasta. OP just hired a chef and got served uncooked spaghetti, and people are defending the chef because "well yeah he hired a chef but he should stop bitching because the chef hadn't even cooked the pasta yet!". Well if the pasta wasn't cooked yet then why serve it on a plate and charge for it? Maybe the pasta should have been cooked before being put on the plate?
 
And saying "just cook it yourself" (as in, wait for it to come to YouTube) is not an excuse for the chef's sloppy job either. OP paid to have someone cook the spaghetti for him. He knows how to cook spaghetti but felt that it was worth it hiring a chef to do it instead. Now that the chef has shown his incompetence he voices his concerns.
That seems perfectly fine to me.
 
I do! What do you think an alpha is? The very reason alphas exist is so that people can report bugs and issues to developers. What OP is doing is exactly what you would expect during an alpha.
 
This seems like constructive criticism to me. OP explained the issues he has with FPC, gave examples and suggested a way to fix at least one of the issues.
"Constructive" is not synonymous with "nice".
 
OP isn't saying he can't afford it. He clearly can since he is currently a subscriber to it. His problem is that he feels like LMG is being sloppy with the service and treating it like a "second class citizen", which is not what he expected.
 
I don't know what universe you come from, but that logic does not work in this universe.
Floatplane Club is by every single definition of the word, a paid service. You can't say fuel is free because you could walk to your destination, but that's the logic you are using.
 
He is contributing. He is not only putting down money, but also giving feedback. He is contributing as much as he can. Way more than those who just pay for the service.
 
I hope the irony is not lost on you...
(In case it is lost on you, the "transparency" post you linked to is behind a paywall. A very opaque paywall).