Windarrow

This is the problem with non PR team answers. They are personal and not perfect. Some of you act like every answer needs to be 100% perfect as some big companies would come to you and say something is beautiful words that end up meaning nothing. Linus is not perfect and his PR skills aren't either. But you get transparency, what is in his mind. You may not agree with it or you might. But if you cut this direct line, then you'll get some PR article and actual feelings and mindset is cut from there. I do agree, that Linus didn't manage everything perfect and to be fair, he is trying to get away from this responsibility (therefore new CEO). And timing with LTX perhaps also didn't help manners of addressing issues and having people overworked. So give them time to work this through, this is a lot to handle. They are not faceless entity, they are people there and even Linus is a person. If you have your life work in the line, it fogs your judgement. Try to stay reasonable and understanding. This is not an easy matter. And don't judge Linus for being open, since one day we may lose this privilege and we only start hearing nicely worded PR letters.

I have come up with updated diagram, that includes transistor to close battery circuit, when 5V rail has power. Transistor power is handled with voltage regulator. Also added timer unit (didn't find correct diagram), that handles 20 minutes or so of power when getting initial power in (final result depends on unit itself) Does this diagram make sense or have I missed something in it?

I have E91, it has some "advanced" power management system. I'm even having trouble hardwiring my dashcam there, since those voltages are changing by some weird logic. I got an offer from shop as well, and they wanted around 200€ just for wiring this stuff. Could do it myself as well ofc, but I'm not that advanced and really don't want to mess around with electric stuff in my car Powerbanks are an option, but some of them don't allow charging and outputing at the same time. I have samsungs power bank at the moment, and it doesn't work like that at least. Also, I want to integrate some timer into it, since I really don't want it being active for hours or days - will be quite annoying with music playback to other devices I was hoping rather, that there is some kind of UPS similar system with timer functionality, but it seems, that I still have to build something like that myself rather.

Thank you for the reply @mariushm. Do you have experience with supercapacitors as well by any chance? If I'd rather go with https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/SCCU25B256SRB/6165963 or something similar for power storage instead of battery. I would much prefer to avoid LiIon and LiPo batteries since heat and cold can get quite extreme in the car (32C outside + sun to -30C in the winter). Your recommended logic boards only work with batteries I would assume? Something like that should work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/385434053447 Edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/115354731398 this board seems to be more appropriate even. First one I have no idea, how the IN and OUT power works .. Edit 2: Would the diagram with capacitor look something like that?

I decided to ditch cable solution, since it is too much pain in the butt to deal with and ended up with Firefly BT receiver instead. For now I am quite happy with this device, BMW E91 Logic7 sound system even manages to get surround sound out with it and if I remember correctly, then audio quality is over Samsung S9 AUX->AUX even. Now I just need to find solution to keep this device powered when I don't have engine on. If anyone has some ideas, then I'm happily waiting them in another topic

Situation I have BT audio adapter in my car. Car doesn't deliver power to 12V output when engine is not running. My thoughts I want to attach some kind of "Power bank" or UPS in between, so I can still have music when engine is not running. "Power bank" or UPS should be timer based after power off. It should last at least 15 minutes. Preferably supper capacitor power storage, since it will be in very hot and quite cold in car. Device itself is Firefly BT receiver that should consume about 20mW of power. If anyone knows off the shelf devices for this scenario, I would be happy to look into it, since I didn't find anything useful myself. Alternately I need to build it myself, but would also like some things to look out for

I tried standalone earbuds (in-ear, combo-jack). Those worked correctly. If I connected earbuds first and then connected to cars AUX, then music worked. But if I did it wise versa, then no sound..

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll have to look into it.

I'm having some serious issue with USB-c to AUX adapter with my car (e91). Car has AUX input, that is working fine, when passing it from any device, that has direct AUX to AUX connection. Phone: Samsung S23 Adapter: Some adapter with with AUX (rather quality one) Car: BMW E91 2006 - has AUX input, LOGIC7 What I have tried and discovered.. Scenario 1: USB-c to aux adapter straight to car. This has issues, that there is hard popping sound, but no music is playing from speakers. Scenario 2: Connection through SoundBlaster THX 5.1 USB card I passed audio through sound card from phone connected with USB-c to AUX adapter. I connected phone with Line In (blue) and out from Headphones (green). Car played sound with no issues. Scenario 3: Connecting headphones before connecting car AUX. This is the strangest issue. When I connected my headphones with adapter first and then connected AUX cable to adapter, then there is music playing from car speakers. When I disconnected adapter and reconnected it, then it didn't manage to play anything, but made popping sounds from speakers. Any ideas, what may cause it or any additional information needed?

Budget (including currency): 100€ Country: Estonia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: VR (Beat Saber, Pavlov VR, Half-Life Alyx) Other details: Prime x370-pro, Ryzen 7 3800X, RTX 3070 8GB After I bought new CableCreation USB-C cable I have had performance issues with my VR experience. Mostly random lag spikes, even if my GPU and CPU isn't working too hard. Previously I had USB 3.0 Extension cable + USB-A to USB-C cable and seemed to have a bit smoother experiences. I have switched from AMD RX580 (8GB) to Nvidia and remember on having better experience on AMD Also made drivers cleanup from AMD with Guru3D DDU. But that didn't seem to do anything much. So I'm starting to wonder if my USB-C port on motherboard is shared with other links and perhaps PCI-e USB-C card would help. I'm thinking on getting SilverStone ECU06 Would this be a good choice? Or should I look into something different?

I'll stick with Vulcan Z Red this time. Should be upgrade over my current set anyway. Thanks for your feedback, has been really helpful!

Yeah, can't be too picky here sadly. I'm thinking about going for Team Group T-Force (https://www.1a.ee/p/operatiivmalu-ram-team-group-t-force-vulcan-z-red-tlzgd464g3200hc16cdc01-ddr4-64-gb-cl16-3200-mhz/94uu) Although one more consideration with RAM choice would be, if it is single or dual rank. I did find documentation, how they handle this. Best I found was this Amazon listing in questions section, where it seems, that they are also pulling sneaky with ranks: https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-3200MHz-PC4-25600-Desktop/dp/B08RRR5XP7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=TLZGD464G3200HC16CDC01&qid=1637317009&sr=8-3&th=1

I do have, but it's sadly in Estonian or Russian only ^^ https://www.1a.ee/c/arvutikomponendid-vorgutooted/malu-hdd-ja-ssd/operatiivmalu-ram/2v9 Although translating to English seems to give quite good results. There are not many good choices for 3600 CL16. I think I should step down to 3200 instead. Also the price would be a bit more reasonable

You seem to be right about sticking to 2 sticks. So what I found on the "cheaper" end in my region for 3600 with CL16 would be these: https://www.gskill.com/specification/165/184/1598604031/F4-3600C16D-64GVK-Specification Any thoughts on those sticks?

I have come to point, where 32GB of RAM is rather not enough for me, so I'm looking to upgrade it to 64GB. Currently I'm in between of following 2 choices. They are both officially supported by motherboard manufacturer: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/PRIME/PRIME-X370-PRO/HelpDesk_QVL/ https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK64GX4M4A2666C16 (CMK64GX4M4A2666C16) https://www.gskill.com/product/165/185/1536028210/F4-2400C15Q-64GIS-Overview (F4-2400C15Q-64GIS) While Corsair is a bit faster (in MHz), it is also slower in latency. Also Corsair is ~50€ more expensive on my region. I currently have 2x HX424C15FB16, but since they are almost nowhere to be found anymore, then I'm thinking of changing whole kit and selling current ones. Is there any reason why chose one over the other? Maybe someone has experience with either one of those choices? PC: Asus PRIME X370-PRO Ryzen 7 3800X 32GB of RAM (HX424C15FB/16) RX580