JoshGreen89

Optimus Maximus Keyboard
https://www.artlebedev.com/optimus/maximus/
Whole keyboard with OLED screens as keys...
TKL: https://www.artlebedev.com/optimus/popularis/

Specific products please! Links greatly appreciated

Zealios are my all time favorite switch. I have 2 boards with them. Lubed they become even more amazing. Though if you like MX black you'll probably love one of the heavier tealios. I personally dislike linear switches, however.  And yeah, finding the right parts when going custom can be a process. If you don't wan't waste time and money on trial and error do a lot of research before committing to anything. But if you do get something you don't like you can easily sell it off on Reddit's r/mechmarket for close to what you paid.  

How so my Corsair K70 RGB RapidFire were individually lit. IDK what you mean by controlled tho...  Everything was handled through the Cue software.
 
Yeah, I got two Corsair K70 RGB RapidFire (18-20 months ago) that both started shitting out on me back to back after less than 3ish-5 months each other. My "chatter" is unbearable, games unplayable.
 
 
Yeah 2 or more strokes, sometimes none. It might not seem like that is the case, but that is only because me and the backspace key have gotten pretty close over the last year or so. lol  Trussttt me iif I wwere to juust typee wwithouuut ggoing back to press the backssaace keyy it caan get pppretty uggglyy after a wwhhillee. Essspecialllyyy wwiithhhhhh asswordss.
But yes, thank you. I pretty much accepted my fate that it was going to have to be custom, I even pick up a soldering iron and shit a few months back lol. I just don't know which combination of board & switches, etc... I would need exactly. As for which switch I like, I like MX black, I kinda wanna try out the Zeal Tealio, or even the 65/67g Zealio... But mainly as long as they don't take a shit on me in less than a couple years, I'll be happy lmao.

What do do you mean by chattering? That typically means a key that sends 2 or more strokes for 1 physical press, but it doesn't seem like you're using it that way. 
 
For the rest of what you are asking, I think you can get most of what you want by going full custom. You can get literally any switch you want. It won't be cheep though.
 
For the board you have a few options. The Zeal60 is a compact board with individual RGB. But it's 60% not 65%.  There's the GK64 which is a 60% with dedicated arrow keys. YD68 is a 65% with RGB underglow, but just monochrome back-light. These are just off the top of my head. There's probably more out there.
 

gotcha, so basically your point is you don't need LM as long as you get the silicon removed and use a decent paste, but LM will give you the optimal results?
listen, this topic might become a big argument and that's fine with me as long we keep it nice
but in the end of the day if you delid the cpu adding a little bit of silicone to hold the IHS in place is not going to be the end of the world..
 
if you add a little bit of silicone and you clamp the IHS nicely back on the cpu it won't be an issue

in your topic there is no comparison what so ever or tests between mx-4 with silicon or without silicon and same goes for LM.
 
there is no way that the GAP is the big improvement here, like i said yes smaller gap helps but you realise that: mx-4=8.5 W/(mK) and Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut = 73 W/mk
 
quote from your topic:''While it definitely doesn't perform as well as higher end thermal pastes or liquid metal (just replacing the pre-applied TIM with MX-4 on a 4790K got me a 7C drop)''
so you're saying you got a 7C drop in total with the silicone removed?

i would say the main reason is 100% going from shity paste to liquid metal and not the gap..
yes closing the gap helps for sure but changing the TIM is the big factor
 
i always used 4 little dots of silicone on the corners and didn't see a temp difference between that and not using any silicone.

when using silicone you can create a gap between the CPU DIE and IHS and that can result in higher temps.
 
personally i move my hardware around allot (taking coolers of and cpu's out of the mobo) so i like to put small dots of silicone on the corners and let that dry for 1 hour and you're golden.

i was thinking of putting glue in corners just so it doesnt move, somewhat in between seal and no seal thermals?

pretty much the issue can be traced back to the IHS glue being the culprit more so than the TIM. the thickness of that glue was enough to allow a greater distance between the die and IHS. if you are keeping the CPU, no glue (just be careful if removing from mobo). if RMA or selling, then reglue.

It depends on the performance you're looking to get from the delid. The main benefit of delidding is reducing the distance between the IHS and the die (and replacing the thermal paste with something better like liquid metal).
 
Regluing the IHS to the top of the substrate using sealant will invariably add a little more z-height to the package. This will reduce the performance of the delid.
 
You'll still get a better thermal conductivity compared to stock, but it won't be as good as without resealing.
 
So it's really up to you - not re-sealing is a bit more of a hassle to work with, it's a bit more dangerous, but the potential performance gains are higher. Resealing basically gives you a better thermally conducting version of a stock cpu, and so is useful if you want better than stock performance whilst also wanting the least amount of post-delid hassle.
 
Gamers Nexus has gone into this topic in quite a lot of detail.

Wow- surprised Falcon Northwest is still in business. I remember lusting after their systems in the days of Window's 95.

buy small aircompressor and profit hard?

Yeah yeah yeah... you can say just be careful, but I'd rather just not chance it..

I've thought about a compressor. What about the condensation or whatever?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V8S9XU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of these, highly recommend it

Hahahaha what the the fuck... I thought you were buying grocery cans than only had air in them.
Realized you're talking about compression air cans till I read the comments.

Used it in my past job. Works superb well. My only complained is that it is loud.
It has excellent reviews on Amazon.