Jojomatik

Seems like i finally fixed it. I switched to a static IP (which required a restart of the unraid machine). And after that I used my config in the screenshot above (No restart required here). @Electronics Wizardy: Even though you didn't directly point my to the right solution (i mean what you said is stilltrue, but I already had it configured that way) by pointing me to the config file, you at least lead me to rethink that DHCP on 2 NICs might cause confusion on the systems side. Thank you

Thanks for the response. My quick google search tells me the network config should be located at /boot/config/network.cfg but unfortunately there is no file currently, so I can't verify that. I think it is just not generated as long as i use the default settings. I don't think this solves my troubleshooting problem as the network connection is dropped completely so using the SSH console won't help. Or do you say I should use the console on the machine directly by attaching a monitor and keyboard? That would be possible but would take some time and work. I'm not really familiar with this file, is it the same as with other linux based systems or an unraid specific format? Would you be so kind and provide a sample config that should work? I just remembered I made a copy of the network.cfg config, before I deleted it to go back to the default settings: # Generated settings: IFNAME[0]="br0" BRNAME[0]="br0" BRSTP[0]="yes" BRFD[0]="0" BRNICS[0]="eth0 eth1" PROTOCOL[0]="ipv4" USE_DHCP[0]="yes" DHCP_KEEPRESOLV="no" USE_DHCP6[0]="yes" DHCP6_KEEPRESOLV="no" SYSNICS="1" I think is in line with what you suggested. Would it be possible that the system is confused, on which interface it should use DHCP? Should I turn it off and add a static IP (I know this recommended anyway but I kindof forgot about it and didn't run into any problems yet)? What does DHCP_KEEPRESOLV do? Seems to have something to do with the resolv.conf, but I wouldn't mind if it would be overwritten by DHCP or should I?

Hi, I'm running an unraid machine in my basement and I'm currently trying to setup a direct 10G connection between my PC and the unraid machine additional to the normal 1G link through multiple switches. The basic idea is to disable bonding and enable bridging on the first network card, but every time I do that the network connection is dropped completely and I'm unable to change the settings back of course as the Web GUI is unaccessible. Therefore I have to grab the thumbdrive and delete the network config file manually every time, which makes debugging very tedious. I've already posted this in the unraid forums around a week ago and haven't received any answers. Not sure if my question lacks information or is unclear, as I'm relatively new to unraid, servers, more "complex" networking than just plugging in a cable etc. or if the community in the unraid forums is just as clueless as I am. Any help or debugging tips would be appreciated. I would like to minimize the downtime during testing as I host multiple services for friends and family and don't want to disturb their workflow. My Post on the Unraid forums Basic summary of the linked posts in my unraid post: But if I disable eth0 bonding and enable bridging (add eth1) and leave everything else unchanged, unraid looses network connectivity. Therefore I have to take the thumbdrive and delete network.cfg. What am I doing wrong? Additional information: I'm running Unraid 6.8.3. I'm currently also connected to the router from my PC. Is this a problem? (I can't use the 10G direct link currently as its not configured yet) The 10G connection shows up in windows but is unconfigured (as expected). This is the config that causes the network connection to drop: (Therefore "Please wait" and the loading animation persist) MAC-Adresses and PCI device details removed (not even sure if somebody could use this information for something evil, but I'd rather remove to much than to little :D) Thank you for your help and time! Edit: Just realised that the networking subforum might be more fitting. @Moderators feel free to move, if you agree (I don't think I'm able to on my own).

Hey, I'm trying to use my laptop with the same set of peripherals and displays as my PC. For this purpose I bought a Dual-Monitor DisplayPort KVM Switch (https://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/2-Port-Dual-DisplayPort-USB-KVM-Switch-with-Audio-and-USB-20-Hub~SV231DPDDUA) for around ~240€ on Amazon. Today i tried it out and noticed that (as before when i manually switched my main monitor from DisplayPort (PC) to HDMI (Laptop)) after switching the PC doesn't recognize the display anymore and moves all windows to one of the other connected displays. I started to search the internet and learned about EDID emulation (after scrolling through endless pages of microsoft employes suggesting to restart the pc). Heres my setup: 1x 2560*1080 Display with DP and HDMI 1x 1920*1080 Display with HDMI only My PC has a GTX 1060 with 2x HDMI and 2x DP And my laptop is docked via thunderbolt and the dock offers 1x HDMI and 2x DP (1x full-size, 1x mini) My plan was to use above mentioned switch and to route 2x DP from Laptop and PC to the Switch and then 1xDP to the Ultra-Wide and 1xDP to HDMI to the other screen. I've found multiple possible solutions to the problem: 1. Add some of those EDID emulators: https://www.lindy.de/DisplayPort-1-2-EDID-Emulator.htm?websale8=ld0101&pi=32116 (I believe I'd need 4 of them which would be way to expensive) 2. Buy a new KVM-Switches (with EDID emulation; Happy to hear new suggestions) and return the current one 3. Possibly even adding a DP-Merger (with two inputs and one output) might do the trick, since i use a HDMI-Merger at my TV and this screen gets rendered even with the TV off (which is exactly what i would like to happen for my main screens but not for the TV) [something like this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00ZK2S71W] 4. A software named Custom Resolution Utility (https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU) but I'm not sure if it's trustworthy 5. Fiddeling around in the registry (But it seems like that all potential fixes for my solution, have since been removed by microsoft) If you suggest new KVM-Switches it should fullfill the following criteria: 1. Link both displays to both systems 2. Support the full resolution of both displays 3. Keyboard (or Mouse)-Hotkey switching 4. At least 2 USB-Ports I found the following device: https://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs782dp/ This does only have one DP port per system but allows for Multi-Stream Transport and therefore in theory should support two displays. But information on whether it supports EDID is pretty hard to find. But if it does not i might be able to still buy two of those EDID emulators (point 1) but I'm not sure if they allow for Multi-Stream Transport. Thank you for helping me. Jojomatik

Hi, I'm using this usb microphone since propably around 2 years ago: https://www.thomann.de/de/the_tbone_sc450_usb.htm Last weekend my friends told me that they started to hear a unusual static microphone noise. I investigated the issue and found out that the noise persisted indepently of the microphone input volume setting in windows. The "real" microphone noise only gets distinguishable to the "new" noise (at least to me) at around 80% volume. Below this threshold there is no difference: The noise is the same at 20% as it is at 60%. Even if I mute the mic completely inside of windows with the icon next to the slider the noise persists. The noise only goes away if I entirely deactivate or uninstall the device in windows or unplug the USB-cable. Has anybody ever encountered a similar problem and/ or knows some "advanced" troubleshooting techniques or possibly even a solution? I obviously already tried the usual stuff: Unplugged and replugged Mic, searched for driver updates, restarted PC etc. To me this seems like a software problem since its independent of the windows mute switch (which leads me to the opinion that buying a new mic might not resolve the issue), but I'm not sure. Feel free to prove me wrong Thank you in advance. Jojomatik

I meant for the server. I would propably want to run some kind of linux on the raspberry that automatically starts a remote connection to the VM on bootup (and ideally boot it up automatically if its shut down)

So you are saying I need a extra GPU for every Windows VM? I could propably solve this issue by buying an older/ cheap GPU since my parents don't use their PC for too heavy workloads. Do you now whether I would need a Server Edition of Windows or would a normal personal copy fullfil the purpose? Also has anybody excperience with using a Raspberry PI as a thin client?

Hi, I'm currently looking into consoloditating my systems at home. Currently i'm running a Ryzen 5 1600 based Gaming-System and have an uncomfortably large number of raspberry pis running certain smaller web-applications such as OctoPrint, Network Management Software and more. I'm also running a two bay Synology NAS with 4TB of net-storage, connected via Gigabit-Ethernet. I'm currently developing my own Smart-Home-Management Software, which was supposed to be running on a Raspberry Pi as well, but the apparently there is no Java 13 Version for ARM v6 and I'm not wanting to downgrade to an older Java Version. The Raspberry PI 4 (and propably 3 as well) officially support Java 11 and there are also Java 13 Versions available for ARM v7 and v8, but I do not really want to continue to buy more Raspberry PIs :D I'm currently thinking of buying a server rack and a 4U server to accomplish the following tasks: Replacing my NAS (starting with propably 2x4TB HDD and a SSD for running the OS and caching, with room for future upgradeability), replacing the above mentioned Raspberry Pis with one VM for every Raspberry PI, running the Smart-Home-Management Software. Also my parents are currently running a really old machine and I've been suggesting them to upgrade for a while now. Now I'm thinking wether it might be possbile to run a Windows VM on the server and having them connect via a Thin Client. I was thinking of repurposing one of the currently deployed Pis as a thin client for them. When it comes to hardware I'm currently thinking of repurposing my Ryzen 5 1600 and the mainboard in the server and upgrading my Gaming-System with new Hardware. Is this concept even reasonable or would I run into to many problems on the way? Even though I'm not super-experienced with networking and especially VMs I have fun tinkering around with technology and usually find solutions to problems occuring along the way (usually with the help of google ;)) If you think its reasonable, what specs should I be expecting for the other components? How much RAM would I need, could I utilise an old GTX750ti I have lying around, should I consider 10GBE or would you think this is overkill? I'm currently reaching speeds above 900Mbits when transferring video footage from my PC to my NAS and therefore I'm already nearly filling the bandwith. It doesn't feel slow by any means but it might in the future. Regarding software: I have no real clue which OS I should be opting for and which OS would be the best for those "single-purpose" VMs. Also: I have never tried deploying thin clients myself. Do I need a special windows version for this? Can I automate the connection process on the Thin Client to a point where my parents wouldn't notice, that the PC is not running under their desk? They are not really familiar with tech and simply clicking "continue" on a unfamiliar screen might confuse them enough to call me. Thank you for helping me out. Jojomatik

Well actually i do have a spare computer. The problem with this option is that this machine is kindof power hungry, loud and big so it would be very inconvinient to have it enabled all the time. Even though i like selfmade solutions normally, in cases like this where my mistakes actually affect "important infrastructure" (my internet :D) and since I am not at home that frequently i dont want to risk anything. This might sound kind of evil to you but I'd prefer a "proper" solution in this case. Any further suggestions in this case?

Hi, I'm currently looking forward to buying a new router for my / my parents house. At the moment we are using an ISP-provided (Telekom - Speedport W724V) Router which has limited functionality but it was fine for what it did and so I never thought about changing it. The main reason i want to switch to a new router is that i installed a NAS and played around with webservers on my Raspberry Pi. My domain is pointing at my router which is redirecting the request to the devices. This works with no problems with requests from outside my home network. But from the inside my router blocks the connection to it self to protect me from NAT loopback. Since I am not able to disable this "security feature" in the settings i can't connect to my devices with the specified domains. I read that other devices are able to disable NAT loopback protection for certain domains, but since the data (from what i read on the internet) is going through the router twice in this case the router can become a bottleneck pretty quickly if i try to move larger files between devices. Now I've set up an DNS Server on my RaspberryPi which works without problems. It redirects my (sub-)domains to the internal IPs where i want them. When i went into the settings of my router i noticed that i would have to switch from "Telekom" -> "other ISPs" to even access the dns settings, which blocks some sort of "telekom support features" i don't really need but if not neccessarry i would like to not touch this. Even if I try to change this though, I am only able to change the IPv4 DNS-Server and since basically any device in my home is IPv6 ready i don't want to change back to IPv4 which i would have to since the IPv6 dns is the primary dns. So i started looking around for other devices. What i found (I am from germany so i dont really know if prices and products are identical in great britain or the US) I only know of two brands of whom i would say that their products are stable and offer much functionality but if you have additional products please tell me. I don't really know if I am allowed to change the router at this moment (I don't know if my ISP will get angry at me if i change it and i think my parents acctually pay for this thing monthly) and idk if the telephones which are kindof connected to the router with some old adapters and stuff because they are like 20 years old and my parents dont want to switch so i dont want to risk the telephones (and the ISP provided "Entertain" TV Satelite Receiver with internet functionallity) Sorry if this sounds confusing. So my current idea was to make double NAT with the ISP Router connected to the Internet and the new router connected to the ISP router 1. FritzBox 4040 Looks like it is great performance/dollar 2. Ubiquiti I already have an unifi acces point and it would be neat if everything was integrated with the unify controller. So im looking at something like the Unifi security gateway. The USG has no wifi on board and im not sure if my one and only AP is able to supply the whole house. I think i would have to disable WIFI on my ISP router because devices in this wifi would not be able to use the DNS-server? Or is it possible to spread the wifi of the USG with the ISP-Provided router again? Like this: Internet > ISP router > New Router > ISP Routers WIFI > devices? I dont think thats possible so I'd like to add another AP to the setup but thats not the main question of this thread. My requirements for a new router: - Many Options in Software - Performance - Compatibility with Unifi controller would be very nice - Money (This is just a normal home with some smart home gadgets and wifi devices no office or enterprise thing, so it shouldn't be totally overkill) - Simplicity - Stability - ? Looks - Easy to maintain I also looked at the amplifi gear because the router looks interesting but i dont think its compatible with unifi and i dont want to change the Accesspoint once more. I hope this thread isnt to confusing and i might get some suggestions for what i can do. Thanks for helping me. Jojomatik

Thank you for the detailed information. I think im ordering the LR one and try it out. If it doesn't fix the issue I'll have to return it

Thank You. Are there any disadvantages from long range to the Lite? or is it just the same thing with better range? In germany its 15€ more. Thats 20% more. Is it worth the price bump? My property isn't that big as well. Is there a number how many devices i can connect to those APs? Most of them are just connected but not taking up much traffic: TVs, Chromecast, Google Home etc. Is it an issue having a lot of devices connected to an AP even if they are not using it alot? If i transfer a file from my PC -> switch -> AP -> Laptop can i get the full bandwith or just half the bandwith? if i transfer a file from Laptop A -> AP -> Laptop B its obvious i only get 50% but via ethernet on one side? Any idea if the ubiquiti will fix my problems mentioned in my initial post?

Both networks (router and AP) have different SSIDs. Should have mentioned this. Most of the time I have at least 2 or 3 out of the 4 bars connection on my phone even if I'm downstairs. Its defenitly not the wireless connection thats failing (at least i think so). Because its not 1 device failing connection at once but all of them from one moment to another. Forgot to mention this as well. The current fix for this is rebooting the AP by taking power from it for 5 seconds and pluggin it back in. I dont think the Ethernet cables are interfering. My PC is plugged in to the same switch as the AP (Both only like 0,5 m away from each other) and my PC works perfectly fine via LAN. Since my router stores the local IP adresses and not the AP itself my devices won't be able to reconnect to the AP if the AP looses the ethernet-connection to the router. I just tried it by unplugging the ethernet cable. "!" comes up (Indeed in the connectivity settings it says "internet might not be available" in german) and if i turn wifi off on my phone and turn it back on the connection is not made (my phones status: "Verbinden" = "Connecting") until i plug in the ethernet in the AP again. Since im living in a small village i dont think its interfering with other wifis. The App "WIFI ANALYZER" shows only my 2 networks and 1 or 2 other networks with low strength. Thank You for your ideas but i dont think those are the problems i experience as of the reasons i mentioned.

Hi, im currently looking forward to buying a new access point for my home wifi. Since my router is located in the basement and my room is directly under the roof I can't use my routers wifi (provided from my ISP) that frequently. Only a hand full of devices are connected to the routers wifi. I have an access point located in my room which is serving wifi to basically anything in my house. 2 TVs, 4 Smartphones, 1 Tablet, 1 Laptop, Google Home, Chromecast, PlayStation, Radio.... This is the product I currently use. https://www.tp-link.com/de/products/details/TL-WR802N.html I choose it because of the small formfactor, low cost and because it was able to transmit up to 300 Mbit/s. As it turned out it only has an Fast Ethernet port... So its basically capped at 100 Mbit/s to my LAN devices and 300/2 = 150 Mbit/s to devices in the same wifi if i understand this correctly. I had a similar product from "hama" in use before. It was even a little bit smaller. Both APs have the same problem. Sometimes (most likely every 2 or 3 weeks; sometimes its happening multiple times a day) it looses connection (I'm not really aware of why its happening) to all devices (or to the router im not really sure). My phone (and all the other android devices i tested) start showing a "!" next to the signal strength after i try to access the internet. When i try to reconnect my devices they are not able to. Important information: Its NOT my ISP being unreliable. I can indeed use my LAN or the routers own wifi to connect to the Internet. I have 2 ideas whats happening: 1. The AP is unstable because of the number of devices connected to it. Since its a small and low cost product i think its possible. 2. My AP looses connection to the router?! Its connected via two switches to the router which might not be the way to go but its needed in my house because of the "cabeling" my father and i did, but i think it should still work perfectly fine (it does most of the time; 95% of the speeds claimed by my ISP). If my AP looses connection to the router there is no way my devices can reconnect because it has no own DHCP server. So my phone wont get a new IP. This would explain the "!" on my phone. "!" meaning no Internet connection but still connected to network. (correct me if "!" means something else) And its not able to reconnect because its not possible to get a new internal IP. I don't really now why number 2 would occur but two many devices for a small AP might be a reason for most problems i guess. Is the construction of my home network the reason (2 switches between router and AP)? I think the next step would be trying to transfer files from my laptop (Wifi) to my PC (LAN in the switch closer to the AP) and check if local transfer works and only the connection to the router is broke. If the count of devices might be a reason are there any APs or routers (used as AP) you would recommend? Since stability means much to me (and my family) at this point i would spend around 80-90€ max. I dont need any router technology or features: I think of the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LITE https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016K4GQVG/ My criteria (most important upfront) : - stability - speed (up to at least 300 Mbit/s; Gigabit LAN port) - range - nice looks (its in my room) - 5 GHz - small? I would appreciate it if you would give me some suggestions why my wifi might be unstable and suggest some new APs or Routers i can use as an AP. (It should be available in germany) Thanks for helping me. Jojomatik

What about my notebook? It runs windows 10 i guess it should connect to the AP without internet connection?