Humbie

Sure, but his optical drive will need to be supported to boot from in UEFI-mode... I've noticed in the past not all opticals seem to work correctly, while USB installs are more reliable (& faster in case of 3.0)

Hence my recommendation for USB installs, your optical drive/motherboard combo probably don't work together for UEFI boot from DVD... Just make sure it's at least an 8GB USB-stick and preferably USB 3.0 if you don't want the install to take too long ;-)

To wrap up what's been stated above, make sure your BIOS is already set to UEFI mode only when installing Windows. Otherwise you might risk your Windows installation to install in "legacy" MBR-mode. You can't just convert an existing MBR Windows install to GPT, you'll need to reinstall. I always create a UEFI USB-stick to install Windows with. If your USB only supports UEFI mode installation, there's no risk of it falling back to legacy mode ;-) To know how to create such a USB-stick, follow the tutorial here: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-create-windows-10-usb-bootable-media-uefi-support#uefi_media_rufus You can download the necessary Windows 10 ISO by using Microsoft's Media Creation Tool: https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=691209 (This is just the ISO with the installation files, you still need to use the license key you got with the DVD.) I don't recommend creating the USB installer with the Media Creation Tool as it's always created just a legacy USB installer in the past for me. Rufus has created all my Windows USB installers and has proven to be utmost reliable in doing so.

Make sure the motherboard is Ryzen 2000 Ready. A320, B350 & X370 motherboards were release with the Ryzen 1000 series so might need a BIOS update for Ryzen 2000 support. For the memory you should be fine, although if you want to be absolutely sure, buy a kit from the QVL for this board: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/STRIX_B350-F_GAMING/ROG-STRIX-B350-F-GAMING_Memory_QVL_180125.pdf Look for the DDR4 3000 Qualified Vendors List (QVL) section in that list.

There's actually an entire topic about this that dicusses different PSU brands, types & their quality, you can find it here.

Thanks for the advice! I think I will be sticking to the USG Pro-4 initially for ease of configuration. Prior experience with a Linksys PoE+ switch has taught me that these types of devices can indeed generate quite the noise & I actually opted to replace them with Cooltek Silent Fan 4020 as they seem to have the best CFM/dB ratio (while only generating 13.5 dB). The Noctua that came closest was an NF-A4x20, but in the end the ratio was better on the Cooltek fans so I went with those.

Coincidentally I actually started playing this again this week (fun fact: my last save game was 2017-04-30, so exactly a year ago) and I really liked what they have done in the updates. I'm one of the people who was not aboard the hype train about promises made & not delivered and actually already liked it from the start. The UI since then has improved a lot, the storyline is more detailed and there's just a general better overview of all the stuff that's going on. Also, I'm pretty excited about the No Man's Sky NEXT update (it's actually called NEXT all-caps) coming this summer to see what this will improve. It's supposed to be a big one so I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Yeah, I said something like it... I'm not specifically recommending it but it's just the first one I've found. My father-in-law has the same issue where he became deaf on his left side & he has a headphone like this but I don't exactly know which one. I'll ask & keep you posted!

Instead of software, I think you might be better off with a single-sided stereo headphone like the Yuni: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Central-Single-Sided-Headphone-Headphones/dp/B06XYJ1WT3 This way you can plug it into any device to hear in stereo, not just on your PC ;-)

I'm going with the Pro version either way to be able to rackmount them. I'd like to have all my networking gear tucked away in my wallmount rack as mentioned in my initial post. Another reason would be to have the SFP ports for when ISPs in Belgium start providing those types of connections for residential connections as well, so basically future-proofing. Are there any other "integration" differences with the other UniFi products I'm putting in my network, except for UniFi Controller vs EdgeRouter? Integration as in, settings being propagated across all UniFi devices instead of having to configure every device separately... I'm also planning to build my own home lab environment, are there any features in the EdgeRouter that might be beneficial in this scenario?

I'm planning out my network setup for when I move into my new house & am in doubt of which router to choose. As I'll be installing a wallmounted rack, I prefer a rackmountable router. Currently I'm thinking of the UniFi Security Gateway Pro 4, though recently I've heard & seen a lot of videos, comments and general information leading me to an EdgeRouter Pro instead. For general home use, what does an EdgeRouter Pro do differently from a USG Pro? The new EdgeRouter 4 also has an optional rackmount solution, so this is an option as well... I'll be connecting it to a US-48-500W switch & will have an UAP-AC-PRO access point on each floor of my house. The USG would mainly look nice in the controller software when the controller lights up all components. It seems handy for me to be able to configure the entire network from a single interface as well.

Hmm, alright... They don't seem to run in parallel next to eachother, just crossing at 90° for the final wallconnectors. Problem is I'm "not allowed" to make any changes myself as I'm working with a construction firm that manages the planning & all the subcontractors. Anyway, if it appears to be a problem later on I will probably replace it with S/FTP cables myself to counter any EMI. Next step is they're going to insulate the floor using PUR (polyurethane), then floor heating and finally screed (I guess that's how it's called in English, if Google Translate is to be trusted). Our house is not all that different from any other new houses here in Belgium (and probably the rest of Europe for that matter) as regulations for energy-neutral and passive building have become quite strict over the years.

Alright, thanks! As stated before, the network cables are placed right next to the electrical wiring. Example in the picture attached, this is our living room/TV corner. In the bottom-middle of the picture you can see all our TV-/mediaconnections - LTR: audiocables, 4 UTP, 4 UTP, 2 electric, 1 coax Will the flex tubing around the UTPs & electrical wiring provide enough "protection" from EMI?

So yesterday evening I found one cable where the lettering was actually visible, apparently it's a Cat6 rated at 250MHz instead of Cat6A rated at 500MHz. The electrician did in fact admit to this fact and will now replace all the cables he placed incorrectly. How much wil it matter that the cables are U/UTP and so don't have any shielding or foiling? They're all individually placed in their own flex tubing, but a lot of these flex tubes run right next to the tubes for powerlines... Will I get any noticeable interference or will this be limited as they're all in individual flex tubing? Thanks for the information and advice guys!