Exaco

Here it is: you don't.  its simply not worth it (clock stretching etc)
 
 
its not 1995 anymore and OC generally makes little sense nowadays better to undervolt 

It's just worse than PBO though... At least with my 5900X, a 4.55GHz static OC (about the max I can do fully stable) will be a 0.25s faster in Y cruncher and lose 100 points in Cinebench compared to PBO. With a couple of the APUs, maybe you can get it OK enough, but a lot of the time you end up within margin of error in all core workloads while being measurably worse in games. 
 
Find the PBO setting and enable it. That's 90% of the effort. 
 
It changes the V/F curve around and encourages the CPU to boost higher. It can cause weird issues with crashing at idle though, so I would set something relatively safe like -10 all core and not touch it again. 
 
If you have Ryzen master open at all times, it should automatically apply settings. I would just copy everything you enter into the BIOS though so you don't need to have Ryzen Master open in the background. 
 
The EDC/TDC/PPT limits behave weird. There is no unsafe limits with these, you can set them both to over 1000A and you will be completely fine, the problem is that they roll over past a certain amount. You basically need to determine a benchmark typical of your day to day usage (these sweet spot based on the benchmark), and start changing the value, see how the score changes, and move it around till you maximize the score. To make your life easier, start with PPT, then keep EDC/TDC identical for the bulk of the tuning, swapping back and forth between them to find the ideal values. At the end, I'd lower TDC a little as that's the limit that's in place once it's thermally limited, but this step is optional as I haven't really noticed a difference either way. 
 
The values I found worked for my 5900X were 188/177/222 (I just went in intervals of 11 to save time entering numbers, going down to the individual value is a waste of time), that was in Y Cruncher. You have a lower power chip though, so your limits are going to be completely different. If you want a starting point, I'd start at 90/90/120, though you will have to play around with it to figure out the best value for you. 

Set vcore to 1.4v, set llc to a medium level or no llc, set multiplier to 47 or 48 on all cores. Theres your allcore 4.7/4.8ghz overclock
 
Set vcore to 1.25v, set llc to a medium level or no llc, set multiplier to 44-46 on all cores, theres your 4.4-4.6ghz undervolt
 
Both will yeild better performance than stock especially on multicore
 
 
I personally wouldnt bother with pbo or anything like that, i just go straight to a static overclock

For a Ryzen 7 5700X, you honestly don't need that much cooling. A basic single tower cooler is actually fine. However, the PA 120 is such a great value at $40 that, if you can find it around that price, and it's in your budget, there's little reason to go with anything else right now. You either go PA 120, or you go all the way down to something like a $15 tower cooler, or all the way up to the NH-D15 at over $100. The rest of the cooler market is basically pointless unless you want a particular aesthetic.
 
I'd just go with the PA 120.

just get a Deepcool AK620. no need to look any further.

You also want to consider statefull vs stateless firewalls.   If you look that up, outbound traffic allows inbound traffic that is part of the same connection.   

Its more complicated than that, as it depends WHERE you are blocking it.
 
For example if you block outbound connections to an IP address on the WAN side, you wont be able to access that IP at all.  However that would not stop that IP address from sending traffic to you, they would just not get a response.  They could still flood you with traffic, so you'd want to block inbound too.
 
There may be cases where you want to block traffic only to/from specific clients on the LAN side, but allow it in general.  You might want to block certain IP address going to a server, but not block the LAN from accessing it. (eg geoblocking on a port forward to your server)
 
 

if you only block inbound communication, your device can still send information to the blocked address, just not receive a reply.
if you only block outbout communication, your device can still receive information from a blocked address, just not send a reply.
 
in the first case, a compromised system can still leak data.
in the second case, a compromised system can still receive commands.
 
it's not because your example application can no longer work, that a specificly crafted application cannot.

Interesting, haven't seen that yet.
Are you certain the new bios flash would do the same? AGESA 1207 is a huge upgrade, chek it out.

Wait, did you use BitLocker drive encryption? Or what?
Updating the bios doesn't change stuff that would prevent you from entering the Bios unless you've changed something else from the default.
For example, Secure Boot or Legacy Boot, if those were set differently you'd have to enter Safe Mode once and then the regular boot would work...

Please update to 5.31 although it mentions that it's a beta, agesa 1.2.0.7 is way better than the 1.2.0.6 even when it comes to memory compatibility.
 
As for the XMP and clocks, Zen+ isn't really known for stability over 3000 or 3200, in most cases it's fine with 2933.
Try running XMP 3000 with voltage 1.3500V after you're on Agesa 1207.

If the kitchen one is OK, yes an extension cord is probably a good idea until you get the bad socket checked and fixed by an electrician. You need to get someone who knows what to do and do it properly.

Simplewall is for single pc's not servers.
https://www.henrypp.org/product/simplewall

Simplewall is exactly what you're looking for. I've been using it for years. It's free, portable and it blocks windows telemetry. Nothing can sneak past it.

You can set a default deny across the board to catch things. You can also have windows notifications triggered by the Event log. So if traffic hits a deny rule and you have set it to log an event, a notification in your task bar would be generated as well. 

Try to load optimized default settings for the bios.

Its REALLY not recommended, as a bad fibre can take down everyone on the same fibre.  It may already be causing your neighbours problems with your ISP chasing their tails as they will have no idea where the problem is.

Not to mention the lasers used in these fibers can blind you if you accidentally shine it in your eyes while working on it.  You absolutely DO NOT mess with fiber unless you know what you're doing.

It will depend on the cable. There are different specifications and you will require the right tool for the job. 

You'll have to get the ISP to come and change your cable.  They are unlikely to repair it, but a cable like that is maybe 5-10$ in whatever your local currency, and the service call should be free as you pay for a service you're no longer getting.
 
The fibers have to be stripped of insulation (the actual fiber is very thin), cut the ends correctly, then a tool is used to align the fibers and splice them (melts the fibers together )  to make a connection
The video below is a good example :
 
 

From what I understand, in order to terminate a fiber connection like that, it requires very specialized tooling. That tooling costs about $5000 US for the stuff that doesn't suck. 
 
So no, a profession repair will not cost more, it will likely be way cheaper. It will still be expensive, but way less than the cost of the tooling that you'd use once and have to try and flip on eBay. 

It's still significantly more power than a motherboard will put out, and dedicated DACs (not combo units) generally can't drive headphones at all.
 
High power amplifiers need space for heat dissipation. It's not possible to have a high performance, high power dongle-sized DAC/Amp (at least, not with modern technology). The Centrance Dacport HD, for instance, can output >300mW into 32Ω, but it's significantly larger than its competition and the aluminum case gets hot enough to burn.

For most low impedance headphones, even expensive motherboard outputs are not ideal because the motherboard output impedance tends to be quite high. It's not a huge deal, usually a few extra db of "bloat" in upper bass resonance, but it's certainly audible. The Apple USB dongle is about on-par with most high end Realtek motherboard designs, minus the impedance problems.
 
The newer Cirrus-based dongle DACs are excellent DAC-wise (measuring on-par with the Schiit Modi, Topping D10, Liquid Spark), and have decent built-in headphone amplifiers as well. Measurements of a $30 Meizu dongle.
 
Desktop DACs need all that extra space for power filtering, extra IO ports, switches, and more fully-featured input chips. For extreme high-end products, the extra space and power is necessary. For lower-end products all those extra components result in better compatibility (you don't have to worry nearly as much about driver support, quality of the USB power source, or buying adapters to support downstream devices). What to get depends on your budget, the tradeoffs you're willing to make, and what you're able to hear.

DAC / converter is probably the last thing you8 should upgrade when considering audio quality. 
1st is speakers / headphones
2nd is amplifier
3rd is DAC.

Of course, that is unless the motherboard audio is noisy in which case any USB solution that isn't becomes an upgrade.

If your motherboard isn't noisy and you already have good speakers / headphones and an amp and you have much better ears than I do you might be able to tell the sound quality difference with a high end DAC, now, if you have 'golden ears' there's not a chance one of those cheap DACs can stand up to a proper high end solution (not to say that the high end solutions are worrth the money or that cheap ones are crap, they're just designed with extremely different things in mind.)

Id just use veeam here. Works well. Bootable utility to restore the backups. Free version for home/homelab use.
 
If your live booting, I just make a img of the file with dd. Works for me.

To me, this looks like a display fading issue. The display needs to be sent for repair if it is still under warranty.
Cable issue would just turn off or show static or artifacts.
 
Sadly, I don't know if it is the panel the issue, or a capacitor issue (which might be in the display power supply).
A different input might use a different circuity path and might resolve the issue.