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mhammonde

Member
  • Content Count

    24
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About mhammonde

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday 1981-01-29

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    @mhammonde

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cornwall, UK
  • Interests
    PC hardware, peripherals and modding. Web programming (HTML, CSS, PHP, JS, etc). Gadget projects (Raspberry Pi, etc).

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5 2500k
  • Motherboard
    ASUS P8P67 Rev 3.1
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws-X 8gb (2x4gb)
  • GPU
    None atm (R.I.P my beloved BFG 8800GTX OC)
  • Case
    Some rubbish case that I haven't replaced yet
  • Storage
    Generic 500gb mechanical drive (to be upgraded!!)
  • PSU
    Corsair CX600
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Pro

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  1. For anyone who likes the remote play on mobile, this sounds like a promising update from nVidia! Okay its only in South Korea at the moment but you can sideload the APK! Something I'll definitely be trying (perhaps on a device that isn't my daily driver just in case y'know?) "The Android client is pretty easy to use. If you have access to the beta, all you need to do is sign into your Nvidia account. After that, it will load all the games either in your library or on the supported platforms. For me, it didn’t show every game in my Steam library because not every Steam game is fully supported." https://www.xda-developers.com/download-nvidia-geforce-now-apk/ EDIT: Apologies for using the wrong format and and a dodgy news source! Newbie mistakes doh!
  2. Do you think this is a talking point for the WAN Show?
  3. Came across this article whilst browsing information on 5G where I live in the UK .... Interesting points being raised! https://you.38degrees.org.uk/petitions/stop-the-trial-of-5g-on-the-isles-of-scilly-and-cornwall Cheers Matt
  4. Not sure if this has been suggested already or not... "The First" by MonsterLabo. It's a bonkers design but actually very cool and apparently super quiet! ... And a passively cooled GTX 1080!?!? https://www.monsterlabo.com/
  5. Hello all, Thank you for your input on this so far. Took a while to get back to this (life gets in the way, doesnt it!) but I have done some more research. The ram is most definitely the correct replacement part for this model of HP laptop (as mentioned previously) and there are little to no advanced or super-user settings in the BIOS on this laptop to set voltages, clock frequencies, etc so I can pretty safely assume they are running at a pre-configured speed and have been since day one. I do still find it fishy that the original 4GB module that came with the laptop has survived through the death of two additional 4GB modules so something MUST be different between them. I found out that the laptop as a complete set of diagnostics you can run at POST so I did this and the tool confirmed that there is a memory module fault and the memory test failed. Googling what to do with the failure code suggests speaking with HP Customer Services but I am WELL passed any warranties now. My next idea is to look up the model numbers for the module that has survived from the beginning and (1) see if it differs from the "recommended spare part" and (2) see if I can get a new module that matches that. Thoughts? Thanks Matt
  6. A friend of mine just just threw me a link to www.monsterlabo.com and I was agog. The first thing I thought was "Linus HAS to review this!". It's a bonkers design but actually very cool and apparently super quiet! ... And a passively cooled GTX 1080!?!? I think there was a mention of this at Computex, but I can't remember. How do we convince Linus to do a full review when a sample or the finished design is available to him? https://www.monsterlabo.com/
  7. Hey, sorry, took ages to get back to read replies. I did consider using a different slot as the P8P67 PRO motherboard does actually have 3 PCIE x16 slots for SLI or Crossfire setups. I didn't get a chance to actually try it out though as I had to move all my belongings into storage for a house move. My immediate thoughts on this was that the motherboard might require a single video card to be in PCIE Slot 1 (marked as PCIEX16_1) unless two are being used in SLI/Crossfire mode, so if the card was installed in one of the other slots (PCIEX16_2 or PCIEX16_3) the motherboard will complain and not POST? Does anyone know if this is the case? Here is a hi-res image of the motherboard for anyone who might need a reference: https://images.bjorn3d.com/Material/revimages/articles/Asus P67 preview article/P8P67 Pro/P8P67 PRO_2D_H_x.jpg
  8. I recently was given an unboxed, untested Sapphire Radeon 7950 HD 3gb Dual-X (link) and I got around to testing it in my old rig. After installing the card (which was a squeeze in my crappy case) I powered up and all I got was a red glow from the "vga_led" on the P8P67 motherboard. I tried doing a CMOS clear but that didn't help at all. I ran out of time for any further testing but I wonder if anyone here has seen or had similar issues and can give me some clues as to things try to maybe get this card going? Full system specs are: Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 Socket 1155 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache (not OC'd) G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V Seagate 500GB 3.5" SATA-III 6Gb/s Barracuda Hard Drive 7200RPM 16MB CorsairTX 650W V2 PSU - 80plus Bronze Certified
  9. I've done a tiny bit of googling on this so far and have found a few people asking similar questions on supplying mobile phones with power via an alternative source as the original batteries are long dead. There was some talk about making sure the voltage and MAh is matched to the requirements of the handset (so, essentially, the same as the battery output) but more importantly considering regulation of that power to avoid destroying the device through spikes, over-volting or under-currenting. Does anyone have anything to add to this?
  10. I recently had a mishap with my little 8" Intel Atom-based Windows 10 tablet, and was wondering what I can do with it now... I thought it might be fun to remove the motherboard, mount it in a little box and attach some break-out cables so that its a portable Mini PC. The main issue I have with this is that, due to it being a cheapo tablet, it only has a single USB port which is used for charging AND connected devices such as a mouse and/or keyboard. I have done some research on USB cables/adaptors that support attaching a charger AND devices at the same time but apparently a lot of devices, especially lower-end ones, don't tend to support this? Instead I thought maybe I could remove the battery and hard-wire an alternative power source onto the board in its place. Is this a feasible solution? The obvious things to consider are the incoming VOLTS and AMPS from the new power source so I guess it might be possible to source a power circuit to handle this? Has anybody tried anything like this before? Cheers Matt
  11. I was just looking up the Acer Nitro 5 and the Dell Inspiron 5000 was suggested to me as the specs are pretty much identical. I would like to see a shoot-out between those two as the price in the UK here at the moment is the same between the two (from Currys at least).
  12. I think people largely tend to stick with Windows because that is the platform the majority of games are (at least primarily) released on. I know Valve made a big push to Linux with SteamOS and OSX too, and I think that has helped a lot, but still many games seem to release on Windows first. I expect someone with superior knowledge to me will mention WINE, but I am unsure of the compatibility of WINE with the latest games and graphics APIs those games use. Anyone care to weigh-in on that? A colleague of mine does strongly recommend LTSB if you can get hold of a copy. He is an advocate for privacy and avoids apps with heavy telemetry (Google Chrome is apparently a big offender) and uses VPNs for all his online activities too.
  13. Okay, so i've done a bit of research on this now and it seems that I have the correct voltage ram module. That said I thought I had a genuine HP module but I'm not so sure now... The module I removed was actually an ADATA module (model AM1L16BC4R1-B1GS) - Amazon link here for details. It DOES have the label on it that states "REPLACE WITH HP SPARE 691740-001" which, when Googled, does match exactly the specifications of the ADATA module. I assume then that I must have had the correct module to begin with... So what happened??
  14. Oh, right, yeah, I didn't consider that could be the issue. I (perhaps wrongly) assumed the modules would be correct because I had bought the exact modules specified in the upgrade documentation. I'll check that out. Cheers.
  15. I wonder if anybody else has experienced this one? I have owned a HP Pavilion laptop (model n097sa) for around 3 years now. When I first got it it had the original 4gb ram module and an additional genuine HP 4gb module that was specified for this model of laptop. After about 6 months of use I started having weird issues, blue screens, booting problems, etc. From experience with other machines I knew to check the ram first and tried re-seating it with no luck. Removing it entirely solved all the problems though! After some more testing with no luck I bit the bullet and bought another identical module brand new. I installed this and everything was fine again for around 9 months when the all the same issues started happening again. Once again I attempted re-seating and that, again, didn't help. I removed the module and all was well! This is how I've left the machine now, with the original 4gb module in place. Has anyone heard of these laptops killing off modules, or do I just have a dodgy system?
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