Azrael2k8

Hi all, I have the following issue: Issue: Mouse and Keyboard have a huge input Lag/Freeze/Typing keys several times in Windows and only in Windows. Workarounds: As soon as I start a game like valorant the lag disappears, hence I don't think this is a hardware issue. Connecting the monitor via USB-C resolves the issue. Connecting Mouse/Keyboard dongles directly to PC works also just fine. Setup: My Mouse and Keyboard (Logitech g915 and Pro Superlight) are connected to my gigabyte M27q monitors USB hub. Monitor is connected via DP. The Hub is connect to my PC via the original USB (Type A?) cable that came with the monitor. The computer runs G-HUB with default settings. I have a second 1080p 75hz LG monitor connected via HDMI. What I've tried: I've updated monitors firmware and Motherboard BIOS. I also freshly installed AMD drivers for my GPU as well as Chipset. I've upgraded from windows 10 (same issue) to Windows 11 and reset to factory with wiping files I have tried changing the USB ports on my PC and also only running one of the devices via the USB hub in case it would be a bandwith issue. I have found this reddit post which goes into a similar direction but not exactly the same https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabyte/comments/kr4ba6/gigabyte_m27q_kvm_lag/ Now I know the workarounds above sound good but I need the USB-C connection for my laptop. Since the same USB-connection actually works when I start a game I assume this is software related. Any idea what would change between connecting via USB-C/USB-A and starting a game? I've read some things about harware accelartion for mouse (and keyboard?) in windows being an issue but don't understand why this would change with USB-C. Any suggestions welcome. BR, Az

OK, thanks for your input. I am already in touch with the manufacturer of my router. I will contact my ISP as well. However, I found some posts of people with similar issues, who said that using 8.8.8.8 and as alternative 8.8.4.4 for their IPv4 DNS solved their issue. I will give that a try. Since the issue only occures every couple of days testing takes quite some time. My router has a working WAN address during the time and also states that it has both connections ipv6 & ipv6 + AFTR (DS Lifte). It also did not lose power according to the log files. I will have a look next time it occurs though just to make sure.

Hi there, I've recently been experiencing a strange behaviour where I am unable to reach websites which have an IPv4 address. Either the requests time out or load just before timeout after 10-15 seconds. If I software-restart my router everything is back to normal. A simple reconnect is not sufficient. During the error I am able to ping the websites just fine with usual latency and no packet loss. IPv6 sites like youtube or facebook are reachable all the time. My DNS is set to the internet providers ones. Allthough I tried changing them to Google or Cloudflare without success. When I use PIA (VPN) during the error I am able to reach all websites. The error occurs on all devices, wired as well as wireless, dekstop, mobile etc. My ISP is only using DS Lite instead of native Dual Stack, I am not sure if that has anything to do with it. Has anyone on here experienced something similar or knows what is happening? I already contacted the manufacturer of my router but I somhow doubt they will find a good solution.

Oh ok thanks. I Really like SLI though and dont want to sell One. But i would still like to Upgrade my CPU. So out of the Coffee lake Line-Up the o 8700k would be the one most suited for gaming? Because it looked like it does Not clearly outperform a 7700k in Gaming?

Hi, I currently have a i7 6700 (no k...) in a z170-a Motherboard With Two msi 1080 Ti sea Hawks in SLI. I Feel like in 4k my non overclockable CPU is Holding back my gpus. What would be the most sensible Upgrade? 7700k or even 8700k? Is there Another Option?

So it's been a while. I sent my PSU to Corsair but they are not replying to me for a month now. They are not even telling me if it was water damage or not, just no communication. Since I was very busy personally I didn't bother too much. Now I had some more time and ordered a beQuiet dark power pro 11 PSU. I guess having a BeQuiet Case a PSU from the same guys makes sense. I performed some heaven benchmarks and one card is at 50 the other at 55-56°C, which is fine for me. The CPU for some reason is equally hot as the hotter card even though it is not doing much in the benchmark. I just wanted to thank everyone that helped on this. It was really good to have someone to discuss and troubleshoot this with. In summary what I learned is: -Place PSU Fan down when watercooling -Use o-rings! -Always replace thermal paste on GPUs (when warranty allows for it) -Don't expect corsair to answer you Btw I will have to refill my system now with the correct anti corrosive etc so dont let that air in the res bother you too much

How did you get the pins next to the GPU (no idea what they are called) so clean? I am usually afraid to damage that so I leave them covered with the old paste and make sure to clean the actual GPU as much as possible. Is that wrong? Btw I am able to push the temperature to 58°C on the bad CPU with constant benchmarking but that is far away from any real world gaming load i guess and still way better than before.

Holy... I just set the bad GPU up with new thermal paste. It is running at 48-52°C in Heaven instead of 70-72°C. I mean wtf. Plus I attached two pictures of what the thermal paste was like before and after. I am not really sure if I did a good job but apparently it worked. What do you think about MSIs approach of TP application? Isn't that very little and also clumsy applied (see that spot on the left)? Now I am only missing a good psu and 2 o-rings and I will reinstall that terminal and see if the temps changed there as well.

So I just finished installing a ghetto Sharkoon 600W PSU for testing. I don't know if it will be able to power both cards but for now I will test both cards individually. As for damages. Apparently everything survived except the fan controller and maybe the LEDs. This means that for now the front rad wont have any working fans but I guess thats fine. I am happy nothing else died (though I have not tested the second GPU but assumed if one is alive the other one should be too. As for the original issue. I will benchmark both cards individually with the exact same setup and see if there is a temp difference. Results will follow. Edit: I am currently testing the "bad" GPU and it already is at 72°C after one run in heaven. I doubt that this is good but I will install the other one as well just to be sure. Btw MSI replied to me that removing the waterblock will not void warranty, so before I send it in I will give it a try to replace the thermal paste. Edit 2: See results of the other "good" GPU basicly 10°C colder... That does not like an acceptable margin of error to me or is it? Edit 3: According to MSI 10°C are acceptable differences and are caused to different power consumptions for each chip meaning they vary in voltage and therefore release different amounts of heat. He also assured me that changing thermal paste will have no influence on the guarantee since I am in germany.

I covered it with plastic to prevent Water from dripping in there during my work at the tubes. Either it blew up due to an honest malfunction or the stupid serial terminal did leak overnight. I did not find water in the PSU but i guess Corsair will let me know why it failed. In hindsight i really should have placed the PSU fan down...

Well my Corsair 1000 just blew up. Depending on how much is damaged and when my replacement psu arrives i will need to postpone any testing for the gpus...

Thanks for going through all this trouble for me. I just contacted the guy who sold me the 1080 ti and he tested the card without a terminal block but direct connection with tubes (ugly though) and only had a 2°C heat difference. I guess I will give that a try as well since it is really confusing me that changing the GPU position had that effect. Btw I attached my bios settings for the water pump. I set it to 100% as soon as I had the issues with the new GPUs. My old 1070 was fine with low pump rates but two gpus might need that flow speed. I will report back with the test results when I connected the two cards directly.

I just swapped the cards and noticed I missed to install the orings between serial terminal and the blocks and then realized that the serial terminal only came with two orings. I will order some more but install the two that I have to the card that was having the heat issue. And since it is not leaking I don't think that is an issue now but nevertheless I will install the missing ones as soon as they arrive. I performed one benchmark (benchmark 2.png) before the swap and the other after the swap (benchmark 3.png) and attached the results as pictures. I also relocated the CPU inlet/outlet connections so that it will now go GPU -> top rad -> CPU (correct inlet) -> res. The temperature difference has been cut to half. The card that was cooler is now getting hotter as well. I think 5-7°C difference is acceptable however I do not understand why the other GPU is getting hotter now as well. The screenshots also contain the graphs over time. They are in german though. Any idea what is causing behaviour like this?

Hi, thank you for inspecting it. I remember that I swtiched the CPU input, output the last time I rearranged my loop and turned the top rad around. I will try to fix that the next time I upgrade my cpu, which will be in the near future. I updated Msi afterburner to show clock and memory frequency and attached the screenshot of heaven benchmark after 2 minutes in to the program, The difference in heat was again really rapidly. like 20 seconds into the benchmark and the gpu1 would be at least 10°C hotter. I also attached a screenshot of my nvidia sli setting. It is in german but the positioning is the same so "maximize 3d performance" is selected. What would be the best to troubleshoot this? Change GPU position or only install the hotter gpu alone and see if it performs the same when solo? Btw what could be the causes for this? I would think one of the following: Faulty GPU/PCB getting hot for no reason Bad connection between Waterblock and GPU Waterflow not reaching the second GPU (unlikely) Would you agree with that? Kind regards,

Hi, thank you for your interest. I attached two pictures one with the full system and a close-up of the GPUs. I sadly do not have pictures of the PCB whilst installing, but could make some if I drain my system tomorrow. The Waterblocks were obviously pre-installed by MSI/EK. The Res used to be full but the tilting yesterday moved some air bubbles into it. The Water flow currently is like this: Pump -> front rad front rad -> lower GPU lower GPU -> upper GPU upper GPU - > CPU CPU -> top rad top rad -> res res -> pump Do you have any insights as how I should go about trobuleshooting if I drain my system in the next days?