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PoloniumFist

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About PoloniumFist

  • Birthday January 10

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/PoFist/
  • Origin
    PoloniumFist

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    United States

System

  • CPU
    AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
  • Motherboard
    Asus w/o USB 3.0 header
  • RAM
    16 GB Kingston HyperX Blu
  • GPU
    ASUS GTX 970 STRIX
  • Case
    Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 Pro 120 GB + Seagate 2 TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850
  • Display(s)
    Asus 1080p 24" + Acer 900p 20" + Insignia 1080p TV
  • Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO + stock case fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K65 RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Audio Technica ATH-M50 + FiiO E10

PoloniumFist's Achievements

  1. I would totally use Tech Keys for a Titanfall eject switch
  2. Ah, mine's grey fabric cover, no armrest adjust whatsoever, suits me fine
  3. It seems my motherboard does not have a SPDIF header. But wouldn't Windows recognize it as a recording device, then I can just tell Windows to monitor that device, and by default the audio being record will be output to my default output device? EDIT: Like this
  4. What soundcard is it? I'm having trouble finding any online with SPDIF inputs. I just need something cheap, I won't be using the soundcard's outputs at all, my actual output devices (speakers and headphones) are on a USB amp/DAC.
  5. My dad suggested 3.5 to 3.5. I forgot to mention my Xbox is connected to a TV mounted on the wall above my primary. It doesn't seem to have analog audio out, just an unlabeled coax. My monitors don't have 3.5 out either. How do you have SPDIF to your PC, is it on your motherboard or a soundcard or what? If I could do that, that would be the simplest I think. EDIT: I should also mention I only need stereo, no surround
  6. EDIT: I should also mention I only need stereo, no surround EDIT 2: My motherboard does not have a SPDIF header. FINAL EDIT: I figured it out! The key component was this SMSL SD793-II and what I've done is Xbox HDMI to TV, TV coax out to DAC (the SMSL SD793-II), DAC out to desktop speakers with a male RCA left-right to female 3.5mm to my speakers , then the headphones port on the DAC to my headphones (duh), then I use an Asus Xonar DG PCI card I had and use its SPDIF out to the DAC. So now I turn on the DAC, and can use headphones or speakers at will, they each have their own volume knob, neither has to be in a certain position to get audio, and I can switch inputs to get audio from either my PC or my Xbox. No muss, no fuss.This amp/DAC is great by the way. I need to get the audio from my Xbox One to my PC (to play onto my USB amp/DAC). My motherboard only has a Line In and Mic In. Are there PCI cards for SPDIF input or HDMI A/V splitters that split to digital video and analog audio? I've done days of research to no avail. Thanks.
  7. Linus it sounds like the D-series might be what you're looking for. I have this one http://www.dxracer.com/art36_dxracer-oh-da02-gn.html and it's got the firmer foam but it might be a little bigger than the F-series. I'm 6'4" and it's a little small for me, but I can deal. I wanted the K-series because it was the tallest, even taller than the M-series, but the price on the D-series was much nicer to cope with. Only thing is the D-series doesn't have adjustable arm rests, but they are semi-squishy instead of hard plastic like my last chair.
  8. The blog post is located at http://toxikk.com/newspost/toxikk-apparel-shop/ The shop at http://toxikk.com/shop/ Lots more merch than I was expecting. 20 different items, even a thermal mug. Looking forward to this game, I was but a youngin' when Unreal Tournament was in its prime time and had no idea what I was doing. Hope it can live up.
  9. This is awesome. LTT will go far. The LTT hosted game and voice chat servers sound especially awesome. Dat bronze Gaben though. Also
  10. I love my Moto X but wouldn't mind getting that sexy beast. Good work, dbrand.
  11. Here's the squidealio. I've arranged my battlestation in a more permanent position. Getting real serious about cable management. First things first -- I have a bunch of USB devices, that's a lot of cables, can't have that on my desk like octopus. This ain't a sushi place. I get a 7-port powered USB hub, route my keyboard (Corsair K95), mouse (Corsair M95), microphone (poopy Dynex, hopefully a Snowball soon), and amp/DAC (FiiO E10) down under my desk. The hub is plugged into a USB 3 port on the motherboard (the hub is USB 2, so that probably doesn't matter), and the hub's AC power in the power strip. Thangs is cool. Works great for about half an hour. Suddenly the hub power cycles -- all my devices are lifeless. A few seconds pass, hub comes back. My devices are functional again. One thing... audio is potato quality! :angry: All audio gets this stuttery effect, but it's not lag, it's just jittery.. garbled. Sounds like if someone had my audio in a piece of paper and is scrunching up the paper. Best analogy I'm capable of. Audio is the most important thing, I plug it into the mobo until I get a USB extension cord to reroute under the desk. So I've got a hub with KBM + microphone and then my amp in the mobo. No biggie, the amp is hi power so I say "I suppose this makes sense" and deal with it. Later, in a skype call, others are complaining that I'm transmitting a whining sound (not complaining, high pitched tone). I say 'wtf' and test the mic in a mobo USB port. Whining gone. WTF. What's the point of a USB hub if I can only have my mouse and keyboard plugged in! I do some research. Inconclusive. Assume defective hub. Go back to BestBuy, get a Dynex USB hub. I discover the power output is the same 5V 3.5A as the Belkin. Leery, I test all my devices in the Dynex. Everything works fine. Sweet. Set everything up. All my devices -- mouse, keyboard, mic, amp -- plugged into it under the desk. I test the mic. There's the whining sound.. Oh well, at least audio is fine. A little bit later the hub power cycles. Audio goes poopoo. I get upset. I try the hub's AC power in the wall instead of the power strip. Everything's fine... That leads us to now. I don't know if the hub will power cycle while plugged into the wall, I'm certain that it will eventually. Someone help me out. Are USB hubs a joke? Is there something about USB I'm missing? This is annoying me to no end. What's the point of a 7 port powered USB hub if I can only power my mouse and keyboard. I've checked the power requirements of all my devices and there should be no problems at all. Each port on the USB hubs should be receiving 500 mA, the standard amount of power for a USB hub(3.5 A / 7 ports = 0.5 A). I've been told a powered USB 3 hub might help and I've been told I'm overloading the port the hub is plugged into. Neither makes sense to me except maybe USB 3 might have more bandwidth to handle the data of macro keyboard/mouse + audio equipment. I'm at a loss. I call upon the power of the LTT community!
  12. I'm subscribed to so many gaming channels, I really didn't need another one from LTT, but I like them. Voted for Ball Pit/mix bag.
  13. T.T The Lamp works in mysterious ways.. Perhaps not so many were meant to see the Light. Top 3 is pretty good, too.
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