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Archon42

Member
  • Content Count

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Archon42

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Star Citizen
    https://robertsspaceindustries.com/citizens/Archon42

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bangladesh
  • Interests
    PC Building, Technology, Gaming, Gunpla, Reading Fantasy and Science Fiction, Stock Market
  • Occupation
    Administration & Compliance, Stock Brokerage Firm

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X
  • Motherboard
    Asrock X399 Fatality
  • RAM
    4x8GB G.Skill Trident-Z
  • GPU
    MSI 980Ti Gaming 6G (x2)
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Elite
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO SSD 1TB, Western Digital 6TB
  • PSU
    Thermaltake Toughpower TP-1350M 1350W
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Swft PG278Q (x3)
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Vengeance K95
  • Mouse
    A4Tech Bloody A90
  • Sound
    Onboard + ASUS Strix 7.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. Each monitor be set to 144Hz outside of Nvidia Surround mode by both Nvidia Control Panel and Windows display properties. When I try to enable surround, I am always faced with the 1x2 topology which pre-selects the two PG278Q displays and ignores the PG278QR; the default 1x2 topology allows 144Hz refresh rate. It is only when I switch to 1x3 topology that I am limited to 120Hz in surround mode.
  2. Yes, I had older drivers so I downloaded new ones and selected clean install during installation.
  3. I have 3 monitors, all PG278Q initially, but one broke down and after almost 5 months of waiting, I got a replacement, but it was the PG278QR (refresh of the PG278Q). Both models are 144hz capable and have g-sync but after hooking them up and trying to Surround defaulted to the 1x2 topology for the two PG278Q monitors while the PG278QR was ignored. Manually setting 1x3 topology allowed me to enable surround by manually selecting all monitors, but I am having the following issues: 1) Maximum refresh rate I can set is 120Hz. 3D is disabled, G-sync is on. I could do 144Hz on all three panels when I had three PG278Q monitors. 2) If I number monitors from left to right as 1,2 & 3, then Monitor 1 (left) is perfect and when I grab a window or video and swing it around fast there is no tearing at the edges. Monitor 2 (centre) has tearing and Monitor 3 (right) has even worse tearing. 3) After doing a lot of tearing tests at one point the right half of my centre display was acting weirdly like it was at a different refresh rate from the rest of the panel and I could see a 'reflection' of any window opened on the panel at it's rightmost edge. Needed to shutdown and restart to fix the issue. Additional info: Monitors set to Surround on 1x3 topology; PG278Q(left) + PG278QR(centre) + PG278Q(right) Set to 120Hz (highest option that appears; maximum possible should be 144hz) Two 980Ti cards in SLI (x16 each) All three monitors are connected to top card via displayport. Case is dual system so the PG278QR also has a HDMI attached for when I need to switch and manage the secondary system. Any advice on how I can get 144Hz on all 3 monitors with G-sync and fix the tearing issues would be most welcome. Thank you for reading! :-)
  4. Affaik 1440p 144Hz and higher needs Display Port cables. HDMI can only handle upto 120Hz. If you are certain it is not an issue with the cables or that you re not mistaken about the monitor's capabilities, check: 1) maximum display output capabilities of your graphics card (older cards may not be able to handle it) 2) Ensure some weird setting is not running on your monitor (easiest was to ensure this is to reset to factory defaults) 3) Passsing the above, download latest compatible drivers and use this uninstaller to remove current drivers. Then restart PC and install the new drivers you downloaded.
  5. Not sure about your workloads, but are you certain you won't benefit from faster storage? Also, not sure if it will be an issue, but the Aurous Gaming 7 has only one LAN port built in. The third slot looks like a cool PCIe 3.0 x16, but should be only a PCIe 2.0 x4 at best; don't be fooled! Make sure to turn off all RGB if you want to maximize power savings over long periods of usage. Also, the Coolermaster 240L doesn't seem to come with the TR bracket out of the box (see here). May want to double check if the unit you are ordering comes with the bracket for free. See this compatibility list; note that the black tick marks denote coolers that need the bracket to be acquired separately. The PSU should be sufficient, but may want to double check the CPU cables that come with the PSU and the CPU cables needed for your motherboard.
  6. I avoid front mounted rads to keep my two 980ti under 60 degree C and fans off; I am working off the theory that using the GPU fans less will make them last longer. USD 1200 in India? Tax problems? Anyways, if not in a hurry, try to wait for a sale. He is somewhat correct about the initial problems being over part. Make sure (if possible) that they ship you a board with the latest BIOS if you are sporting NVMEs or planning a new RAID install on NVMEs or any RAID drives. See if they offer a CPU+mobo+memory bundle as a bundled offer is likely safest in terms of out of the box compatibility. I am personally using the Asrock X399 Fatality, and can vouch for the reliability of the board due to personal experience. I have yet to find good memory for it though as I am basically borrowing a pair of sticks from friends who help out with testing to try to find the right RAM. AMD Ryzen branded RAM is hard to find here. Good luck!!
  7. I have the Cryorig A80 which has two 140 fans (280 rad) on top (exhaust). The Fractal R6 TG should be able to handle a 240/280/360 on top, but I am confused by what they mean by 'standard' and 'open' layout for the top (see their product page). I vote for above the CPU/top of the case, as you have indicated long hours of usage at 100% which will heat up the air to air cooler levels and that hot air will pass over all the components inside if coming from the front. Heat reduces lifespan of components so my vote goes with putting the rad at the top or anywhere except exhausting hot air into the inside of your case. My 2 cents. Another thing I forgot to mention, if you RAID your drives, getting Intel will require you to ensure that the board you are getting comes with the VROC key embedded or otherwise to enable you to use RAID. Older batch of boards and those who bought them can't get them as Intel is not selling VROC to the public afaik.
  8. You are entirely correct about long hours of full throttle usage bringing the performance difference between air and AIOs on par (watch this if you haven't already). The problem with air coolers is clearance with RAM, clearance with the top PCIe x16 socket on 7 slot ATX/E-ATX motherboards, and the height of the cooler blocking the side panel on some cases from closing. Plus on some motherboard models you will see extra height on the VRM heatsink which may interfere as well. I am also ignoring the fact that most air coolers are a REAL PAIN to install. An AIO helps with all of that. The risk of leak is rare but real and one I choose to take given the compatibility constraints I faced and the coolers available here.
  9. Not sure if this will be helpful to you or not, but I have an acquaintance (photographer whose home I went to to buy used HDDs) who bought a TR system for work. His main complaints: 1) His 1950x was slower than his i7 5960x for Adobe; he was really frustrated with optimization. 2) He had to overclock to reach 2900 speed on memory and was frustrated at the lack of support for 128GB at 3200 speeds. Sorry I cannot provide numbers and that this is merely anecdotal. :-( As a fellow 1950x owner I could relate somewhat, but for my needs and the sale I got mine on, it was worth it (plus I don't Adobe). I see you have a preference for air coolers; Noctua has a bunch that may suit your needs. I would recommend a water cooler though for TR4, given the long render times you specified; I use the Cryorig A80 on my 1950x and it provides almost the same performance as that of the photographers's Enermax TR4 AIO with the added benefit of cooling surrounding parts. All said and done, if your work is heavily Adobe dependent, get Intel imho. People kept talking about optimization coming soon for AMD's last generation and the one before... never happened afaik. :-(
  10. Ah, maybe that's it! Used Disk Management. Eight now though, I am trying to recover my files from the raid attempt. Thanks for the info! :-)
  11. Using Windows 10 64bit. I actually tried software raid on my X399 Asrock board first, but for some reason the whole system kep crashing and when I booted back, I found the software raid was lost every time. Tried using with regular AHCI mode and RAID mode setting in BIOS (if that even mattered).
  12. By 'use storage spaces in windows', do you mean software raid?
  13. Shorting seems most likely, but I would not rule out random shutdowns from the anti-meltdown/specter patch either. Have you checked temps on the CPUs and/or add-in cards (if any)?
  14. Hello, I need some advice concerning RAID1 on AMD X399 using AMD RaidXpert2. I had 2 6TB drives with about 20% and 30% usage and wanted to combine them into a single RAID1 array whiel retaining my data. I used Create array on RaidExpert2 and checked the box to preserve my data. Creation finally finished after almost 12hrs, but now my drive does not show in My PC and it tells me to initialize when I open Disk Management. My query is twofold; (a) will initializing my new 6TB array delete the data? and (b) should I initialize using windows Disk Management or RaidExpert2? Thank you for reading. :-)
  15. That looks like a glass side pane; am I correct? If so, and you have any hard packing foam on hand, you can always paint it black and put it between the glass and the cooler so when you close the side panel, it will push the cooler against the board and straighten it out. Worked for me with an acrylic panel in the past. :-)
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