Dr. FunFrock

I mean... AMD technically has a potentially better upgrade path, so that's why I would recommend sticking with AMD. I believe I read somewhere that the Ryzen 9 cpu actually cools better than the Ryzen 7 cpu. Don't quote me on that, but I know a similar thing happened with the 5800X and the 5900X. They didn't put enough of something in the 5800X, so the 5900X cooled faster and was more worth it. If anything, get a 970 EVO Plus or 980 Pro 2TB SSD, because I'm sure either one will be less money than that Corsair one. Also if you're planning on mainly gaming, that Corsair SSD won't be worth it at all. Same thing goes for the motherboard. Get a B670 motherboard instead. As for the SSD's you currently have, then yeah actually a 1TB 970 EVO PLUS would do you just fine, and also cost significantly less. Well... we heard that before... but then Gigabyte PSU's blow up in people's faces (not literally, but they did explode from what I've read). I would highly recommend the Corsair one instead. With a 4080, make sure you get 850W or 1000W 80+ Gold, at minimum. 🙂 

X670e is overkill for most people, where B650e is a far better argument over B650 and X670. There's really good boards in that category too for selection.
 
Some of it is personal preference. The increased power consumption of Intel CPU makes it a hard argument, which can be as high as 100W more than a 7800x3D. My 7950x3D in a 8+0 configuration drew on average 45W from a long weekend gaming session between Diablo 4 and Warframe, compared to the probable +100W of a 13600k/13700k.
 
For some positives in the Intel camp, there's been far less issues with LGA 1700 and Intel 12th and 13th generation than AM5. AM5 overall has been kind of a sh*tshow of a platform, with various stability issues and even issues with CPUs getting fried from poor firmware design by the motherboard manufacturer.

Future proofing isn't a thing, please stop saying it.  As such, PCIe 5 isn't worth spending now on, for later maybe.  Direct Storage isn't going to require it, and since SATA SSDs are not noticeable vs NVMe drives... 
 
So your 192 1TB SSD is going to be wasted.
 
What case is so cheap it's less expensive than your air cooler?  Why buy such a case, do you not care about build quality or aesthetics? (I don't care, but had to bring some roasting).
 
4080... unless your renderings specifically need it, why not get the 7900XTX and even up your CPU to a 7900X3D or 7950X3D (as @Agall would like)?
 
I think you could get more ACTUAL performance for less money.
 
Mild/Medium Roast.  No acid, full body.

Okay things are weird. SFC /verifyonly returned some corrupted files so I ran sfc /scannow with the computer plugged in via Ethernet and rebooted after it said it had successfully repaired the corrupt files.
Now things are working but what do you know, BitDefender just popped up and just coincidentally detected a "threat" about 30 seconds after I rebooted.
So idk, might have been an actual threat and running a SFC might have allowed the antivirus to work properly and detect it, or it might have been BitDefender who corrupted some files in the first place and freaked out when I repaired them, in any case it's a bit weird.
I'll still do a full system scan and a couple other things to make sure it's not actually malware but I think it's most likely at this point that BitDefender messed up. In any case, thanks a lot for the help @will0hlep

Method 1 doesn't work, unsurprisingly because two full reboots should also have restarted the explorer. 
 
As for method 2, I ran SFC in verifyonly and am waiting for the results 

glitch
mobo sensors can be funny sometimes
check my profile picture

It's usually called "GSM buzz" or some variety of that name.
 
The reason why it happened is because most 2G (EDGE) phones used an techniques called Time-Division Multiple Access (TDMA) to allow multiple calls over the same frequency. It worked by having multiple phones sending data in different "time slots". It's like if you had a room full of people who all wanted to say something, so each got assigned 1 minute to talk while everyone else had to listen.
 
When you got a phone call over 2G, your phone received short burst (roughly 0.5 ms long) of data from the cell tower. This first bursty negotiation was necessary because your phone needed to negotiate a time slot it could use to send data. Otherwise it wouldn't know when it was its time to talk.
As it just happens, audio equipment is pretty good at picking up the 800-900MHz frequency used by GSM. So your entire speaker wire essentially turns into a giant antenna for those signals. That coupled with the burst of the initial negotiation for time slots created the distinct buzzing sound.
 
The reason we don't hear it nowadays is because we have moved away from TDMA, and mostly moved away from the 800-900 GMZ spectrum as well.
 Plus, audio equipment is probably better shielded these days than they used to be.

And when I say that I expected my rig to be kind of outdated, I mean that as a hardware enthusiast I think I should start to feel an itch to upgrade by now, and I don't.
I'll admit that my expectations are kind of based on a bygone era, when I grew up in the nineties your 5 year old PC would suddenly look like an antique when trying to run a new game on it...

Same multicore, 50% better single core.  For the price, the risk is acceptable.  $50 E3 Xeon CPU and $35 H61 motherboard, stole the ram from the FX rig and mothballed it.

I still think that games are pandering to the old outdated consoles ps4 and xbox one that were underpowered even when they released 5 years ago. A decent rig like this should be good for the forseeable future as well. If you're happy you might as well try to stretch it a few more years. I upgraded from a 4690k with a gtx 970 and my brother is running a similar rig still and is quite happy. 
 
the only major change for cpu's  is the release of hyperthreaded 6 and 8 core chips that are approaching 5ghz which is pretty rad. The GPU market is kind of meh right now imo, the performance on my rtx 2080 is good (not quite 144hz QHD ultra in every game) but the card runs pretty hot and was incredibly expensive... a 970 is still probably the best bang for your buck and it was released in 2014
 

For you and your specs, get 144Hz though. There are cheap 240Hz Freesync displays but yeah. You'll be more than fine with 144Hz and it will be a big upgrade over 60fps. Also you can get better panel and higher resolution. 

Currently using a 120, 144 and 240. Though the res is different one the 144, gaming feels way better the higher it goes up. Using a gtx 1080 on the mall too but obviously it isn't gonna hit 240 but stays in the 160-180 range on the game I play. I think the 144hz is a great sweet spot but I couldn't get one in 1080p at the time. Id get the highest I could at the best price assuming they all have the same features you care about. 

Only get 240hz monitor if you are just going to play easy to run games like csgo or overwatch and have the computer power to push consistant 240+ frames. If not just get a 144hz monitors. More then suffice

I’ve never seen a 240, but I’ve seen 60, 75, and 144. 75 and 144 are both much better than 60, but the difference between 75 and 144 isn’t nearly as large as the number difference makes it seem. I presume the difference between 240 and 144 is similar. I would just get 144 because a 1080 can’t get 240 FPS anyways.
G-sync is important if you can’t hold a steady 144hz. If you’re constantly at 144 FPS it doesn’t really matter, but most rigs can’t so I would say yes, it is useful.

I can't personally see any noticable difference between 240Hz and 144Hz. I currently use a 144Hz monitor but i have tried 240Hz.
 
I think you should buy a 144Hz monitor for FPS and similar games but use the 4K monitor for work and other games.
 
G-Sync is nice thing to have but you will notice it most if you cant keep the framerate steady at the same as the monitors refresh rate.
 
144Hz is a HUGE difference to 60Hz and you will not regret it. If you have a lot of cash to throw around you might want to get 240Hz monitor but if not you will not regret you got a 144Hz monitor istead of an 240Hz one.

Thanks @Jarsky for all this wisdom. I'm probably going for an hybrid, perhaps I'll use some virtualization to set up a proper linux for the NAS part and have windows on the TV side if I wanna stream games, or a more user friendly linux if I keep it to just movies and web browsing. If I am going to spend some money on a GPU, I might just take the GTX960 from my main rig that I've been planning to upgrade for quite some time (I bought my main PC at a time everyone could tell Maxwell cards were going to be replaced soon, so I didn't spend much on the GPU). And I'm not buying a brand new i7 just because intel and netflix tells me that's what I need for 4K (yes, I am one of those guys who pay for Netflix but still sometimes download their content from illegal sites just to get them in 4k, and I find that pathetic).
 
Given what I'm finding on the french's equivalent for craigslist, I'm probably definitely going for a second hand Xeon too, my gosh these guys are cheap, and they're not even always very old : I found an 8-core e5-2650, in a bundle with a MoBo and 32gigs of ECC memory for 350 euros, and there are tons of guys just throwing away their old servers for less than the price of the PSU inside... I'm thinking Linus should do a Scrapyard wars server build

Depends how much you value the data. If its media, when I had some individual drives, I used to create a folder list export every month so in the event of a drive failure, I could just refer tot he list on what I had lost so I could decide on what to redownload. Easily done by creating a batch or powershell script and scheduling it with Task Scheduler. 
 
If you're looking to move up to 12 drives, youre going to want RAID6 (a 2 disk parity). If you're looking to use it as a Media Player as well, i'd recommend just using Windows with Storage Spaces to create the volume. I wouldn't recommend RAID5 with a high number of second hand drives. 
High port count boards are often expensive. You're generally best just to get a HBA later (wether thats a cheap SATA card, or a half decent SAS HBA)
For expansion you could be better to buy larger capacity disks and upgrade one at a time. It's much easier to manage 6 disks than 12. 
I used to have mine in a Silverstone Lascala LC17B which can hold up to 8 drives. Great looking case if you want something that fits in your entertainment center with some asthetics. There are half a dozen other similar Silverstone HTPC cases. If you want 4K playback you'll need a Kaby Lake processor or at least a GTX960/GTX1030 would be preferable. It's quite common to make a HTPC/NAS hybrid build. 
 
 
You could build it second hand, but might find it hard to find parts for 4K playback. If you have the budget something like this would play 4K and last years
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i3-8100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($117.00 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($111.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($74.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: SK hynix - SL308 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($52.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Silverstone - GD08B (Black) HTPC Case  ($144.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($38.99 @ Newegg) 
Total: $540.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-12 19:07 EDT-0400

so powerlines are an interesting thing. you will not get "full" Ethernet speeds. you are more looking at max-ish wifi speeds but more consistent. also make sure that the building is all on the same breaker/fuse/circuit.

With power line the max speed i got from tp-link av2000 is 160Mbps I have 200Mbps isp from one room below me, but i get 450+Mbps with wifi, so if you want speed go for wifi but if you want lower latency go for powerline. my home is from 1950 or even older.

They don't "Have to be" on the same circuit, they just should be if you want anywhere near consistent internet. Overall I would say a pair of nanostation M9s would put them in a similar connection state outside of the bridge but with far better connection over the bridge. They won't get full speeds but it will be solid at least.

If you want high speeds, I would suggest clustering everything on a wired network that needs the speed. Like for me I'm dealing with something similar where the modem/TV decoder/everything is upstairs so I just run a wireless bridge from the modem abomination to my stuff downstairs and then I've got all of that on a gigabit network. How much stuff do you need pulling the full 400Mb/s over wireless?

http://imgur.com/a/J0SdD
 
That's the setup I use at home. I've tweaked it and I consistently read ~350-400Mbs burst throughput. Although I don't have to punch through a wall like that so that lets me use 5GHz gear rather than 2.4GHz or 900MHz stuff. Currently Ubiquiti is supposed to be working on an airmax 2 line which will have similar models in the 2.4GHz range which would suit you really well.

It's not so much that the concrete will absorb a certain amount of the signal, it's that it will pretty much randomly reflect the signal around. At times you'll get a nice connection and then you'll have a terrible connection. 2.4GHz is better for going through things in the way, 900Mhz is exceptionally good at passing through obstacles. The main problem is that most of the newer protocols are using 5GHz as it's easier to push really high speeds through that. So if you want to use the older protocols on the more durable frequencies then you're going to get lower speeds. 
 
That's the logic behind my recommendations. the nanostation M2 uses 2.4GHz, can get reasonable speeds, and can be set in access point mode so you can connect your computer to us. If you were fine going with a dedicated device at either side you can get similar speeds to the M2 but using 900Mhz by using the nanostation M9.
 
Is it possible for you to make a really basic drawing of what your apartment layout looks like? Mainly to know where this wall is for possible options to deal with it.

I know this doesn't answer your question, but I would stay away from the powerline, I tried these in my house, which is about 20 years old, and the speed was very slow compaired to what I have now with just a USB wifi card.

Yeah. for now looking at the AP alone and test speeds, but the various bridges are an option if you are having significant issues. Considering the doors line up like that you might actually do fairly well as long as you don't move your computer.