SuperCloneRanger

thanks for clarifying the M in its name is important. Yes it will fit in the rosewill.

this board? https://www.gigabyte.com/uk/Motherboard/B450-AORUS-PRO-rev-10#kf

do you want ATX or mATX?

fractal mini c, very similar brushed metal front. https://www.newegg.com/fractal-design-define-mini-c-tg-micro-atx-mini-tower/p/N82E16811352071

Very clean simple look also mATX https://www.newegg.com/black-darkflash-dlm-22-micro-atx-mini-itx/p/2AM-008X-00008

Brother of the H17 but with better airflow. I built in one last year, its a nice little case. https://www.newegg.com/black-thermaltake-versa-h18-tg-micro-gaming-chassis/p/N82E16811133368

Because of covid lots of components are sold out everywhere. To find stuff in stock local to you i need to what county you're shopping in.

Like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32680575045.html

I knew the difference was small but wasn't sure on the specifics so i google 'tv power usage', should of looked at the date of the info, its from 2009. https://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/tv.html#:~:text=How%20much%20electricity%20does%20my%20television%20use%3F,that's%20%241.83%20to%20%249.13%2Fmo. But 34w is silly, it only applies to the eco mode that every one turns off. I looked up a 50" 2020 samsung, it has typical usage 92w and peak usage of 130w. given op's display is 1080p i'd wager its closer to 2009 than 2020. prob in the 180w+ range. 34w lol. i'll stick with my numbers thanks.

Like @Vishera said if the data is important/valuable professional data recovery is recommended. If you plan on doing it yourself i agree with @kirashi test disk looks the part, its well reviewed and meets your budget of $0. I've not used it myself so can't say personally, i have used easeUS a couple of times but only to recover specific files, the free version also has a size limit. Remember use at your own risk, there are no guarantees. If you get it wrong you can damage the data stopping any future attempts to recover it. Also good luck.

No worries, happy to help. Unfortunately i don't think you will save much reducing his display size, dropping from 50" to 24-27" will save maybe 150w . You really should try to get them on different circuits, especially now you plan on running 2 UPS's.

It's definitely the advisable thing to do, You can use the old one on your kids system. Just remember to keep them on separate circuits till you get an electrician to upgrade your wiring.

I think the UPS is a red herring. OP said when the breaker tripped the UPS did what it was supposed to. I can't see why overloading a UPS would trip the breaker. I have no doubt he's right at the limit of maybe a little over the limit of the UPS. But you have to remember current is pulled, having a 1000w PSU does not mean he's pulling 1000w. also power systems don't instantly break when you reach their limit, overloads and current spikes are common and i'm sure the UPS designers made accommodations for them in their design. @Jstagzsr While i do believe you are at the limits of what your UPS can handle(and if you are able you should replace it with something more suitable), i don't think it's a danger to your PC or is what caused you issue. I have to agree with @Mr.Meerkat i think it was a simple overload, it's nothing to worry about, that's what the protection devices are for. all that equipment(as well as anything else on it) was just too much for the 15-20A circuit to handle. The most immediate solution is to run one of the computer setups(not just the tower, we're trying to split the load) from a separate circuit with an extension. but having a new circuit installed or extending a less crowded circuit to one of the computer setups is advisable. This is only my opinion, I'm also not an electrician(i'm an electrical engineering student). Having rewired my house i am very familiar with the uk electrical code. adds new wall of text. lol. We still have breaker boxes(consumer units) that do the same things, overload, short circuit, earth leakage. and We can run sockets in a line, its called a radial circuit. We also have the best plug design.

I knew it was a long shot, the error code tells us the GPU is probably the fault, but it's always worth trying some basic and free troubleshooting steps first. I would definitely try the the GTS-250, it's something you can use to test now, if it outputs a signal you get your answer. it won't be on long enough for the paste to be an issue. Then if/when your able, you can test your system with a friends card and vise versa.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Reset bios to default. Disable memory overclock or xmp/docp/eocp. Test the memory. Remove all but one stick and try in all slots. If problem persists try an/the other stick, again in all slots. if you have access, try a different power supply. If none of that works back up your data(don't forget your game saves) and do a clean install of windows. Start at the top and work your way down, if no of it helps get back to me.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Remove and reinstall your graphics card making sure it is installed securely Disconnect and reconnect all MB and GPU power connectors making sure they are inserted fully and clipped into place Try your MB's second bios. Reset the cmos(i know you said you did it but a lot get it wrong.) Resetting BIOS to default values 1. Power off the computer and unplug the power cord 2. Use a jumper cap(screwdriver) to short JBAT1 for about 5-10 seconds. 3. Remove the jumper cap(screwdriver) from JBAT1. 4. Plug the power cord and power on the computer.

There is nothing to worry about, they are working correctly. The led lights flash as each item is tested during boot. if there is a problem the light will stay on. from page 19 of your manual 18) CPU/DRAM/VGA/BOOT (Status LEDs) The status LEDs show whether the CPU, memory, graphics card, and operating system are working properly after system power-on. If the CPU/DRAM/VGA LED is on, that means the corresponding device is not working normally; if the BOOT LED is on, that means you haven't entered the operating system yet. https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-ud_v2_e.pdf

It's a scam, It's a pyramid scheme. You pay to join and have to recruit other people to make money, but because the amount of people willing to join is limited eventually the pyramid collapses. any one stuck at the bottom or who had a hard time recruiting loses there money. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyramid_scheme https://www.cryptoinfowatch.com/doubleway-io-and-cryptohands-two-ponzi-by-one-entity/

Is that with a gigabit kit?

Yep. I've built in one myself, It's a great little case. Xenia is the emulator to go with for 360. It's recommended specs are on the higher end but its minimum specs are quite reasonable. 360 emulation is still quite new though, even on the best hardware you're going to run into problems. But don't let that put you off, playing around with emulators is a lot of fun. You've already got the hardware, it doesn't cost anything to have a go. https://xenia.jp/ https://github.com/xenia-project/xenia/wiki/Quickstart

@bowrilla I linked the same adapter, its listing/product name is very poorly worded. It actually takes a 4 pin analogue signal from the MB and turns it into a 3 pin digital one. OP wants to go the other way, 3 pin > 4 pin. @namarino Sorry for the late reply. I had another look around, i cant find a suitable converter, its just not something many people would need. The only other option is another controller, if you just want it to light up a cheap sata powered contoller should work. If you want software control it will have to be a more expensive usb connected controller like your EK one. cheap option. I know it comes with a strip you prob don't need/want but for $5 shipped it doesn't really matter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SATA-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-for-pc-case-Remote-Control-Computer-Case-Adhesive-tape/293007979458 USB controlled https://store.coolermaster.com/apac/rgb-led-controller

Happy to help. I like to use these electronic enclosures for my projects, this one seems to be a good fit for that board. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Waterproof-Cover-Electronics-Project-Box-Enclosure-DIY-Case-70x45x30mm/372495836127 EDIT: or this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Enclosure-Case-Plastic-Box-Circuit-Board-Project-Electronic-56x58x28mm-DIY/352510477669

If you need an optical drive there's this from silverstone, its sfx psu only though. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/silverstone-sst-sg05bb-lite-sugo-usb-3.0-black-ca-351-sv.html

Its been a few years since i tried 360 emulation, it wasn't great. before buying new parts i would make sure it can run the games you want to play. It may be easier to just fix up your console, clean out the dust, replace the fan, replace the thermal paste etc. Your going to struggle to find something smaller the a 360 at your price range, the really small stuff is always pricy. here is my top picks, small and economically priced. silverstone sg13 https://www.overclockers.co.uk/silverstone-sugo-sg13b-mini-itx-chassis-black-ca-403-sv.html https://www.overclockers.co.uk/silverstone-sugo-sg13wb-mini-itx-chassis-black-white-sst-sg13wb-ca-423-sv.html Taller than the 360 but not as wide, probably around the same volume. psu sits above cpu so cooler head room is limited, especially when using a full size atx psu. kolink satelite https://www.overclockers.co.uk/kolink-satellite-micro-atx-cube-case-black-ca-005-kk.html A little wider the the silverstone but puts the psu in the front of the case so has a lot more space for the cpu cooler.

sorry no, i got it mixed up this takes a 4 pin in. I can't find anything that works the other way. What is your motherboard's make/model? you may already have a way to power it. also what's the make/model or the rgb controller?