Majorpayne

Rad is at the top of the Case in a Push configuration. I have also updated my sig to show my new system
 
this one is only worth 250 degrees. sorry for the bad pic. I have also updated my sig to show my new system
 

Look at this kind of videos,just so you have idea how they work.
I was interested in buying M1 macbook,went to the shop and didnt even know how to close the windows and files lol.
You can google the things that interest you,like idk how to delete the program,or how to setup some desired IDE or Framework or what ever,until you get the Mac.
This is cheaper way then just buying Mac,or like other have said ask company to buy one for you,or at least cover some of the expenses

Why when they go to Apple Silicon ARM-based they can blame the issue on Intel

It's kids like you that make me think I actually might see men on mars or Robots closer to the like of I,Robot. Great Job

Yes sir 😊 I will do my best, i will 😁

the 8tb + wd drives and 10tb + seagate drives are not smr.

It is a great board. You can still go with the B450 Tomahawk. Refer to the manual. It supports updating the bios with only power supplied to the board. No other items installed in it. See my above post and link to the bios. 

Check this video how to do it, also there’s info from manual.
 

You're looking for a feature called Picture-by-Picture (PbP)

It's a HAF-X case.  The parts are listed here: https://www.jasonvanpatten.com/2015/12/04/dropping-linux-and-kvm-in-favor-of-freebsd-and-jails/

Hey All, 
 
Yeah I understand it's the nature still just sucks. I wanted to give a update on this. Last Monday they asked for a pic which i supplied. Wednesday the Steel Side Panel arrived no questions asked. After I removed the standoff's that  the glass side panel used to keep it in place the new side panel slid in effortlessly. I'm not sure about you all but I don't this i have ever dealt will a issue so easily. I will be buying from this company time and time again. 

Hey All, 
 
Yeah I understand it's the nature still just sucks. I wanted to give a update on this. Last Monday they asked for a pic which i supplied. Wednesday the Steel Side Panel arrived no questions asked. After I removed the standoff's that  the glass side panel used to keep it in place the new side panel slid in effortlessly. I'm not sure about you all but I don't this i have ever dealt will a issue so easily. I will be buying from this company time and time again. 

with the ASUS experience i don't remember but currently 1.379 max
 
I'm using the Asus Z370 Tuf Plus, in the bios the setting is called Asus Multi-Core Enhancement and by default it's set to auto. 
 
 
 
Do you think if i OC a bit to like 4.5 that the Noctua will still be ok

Thanks all for the information. It was the way I was leaning once I began seeing the numbers but i wanted to make sure the test i saw was accurate.

Yep I agree, I think the only game developer to implement proper optimizations for more than 4C 8T CPU's is BeamNG GmbH (the developers of BeamNG.Drive)

Form most videos on youtube they show same results of very minimal performance gain with the gpu you have. the bottle neck just isnt there. Not a lot of game right now are optimized for more that 4c 8 thread processors. so you really wont see much of a gain as of right now.

You'd have to upgrade alot including ram, Mobo, and  cpu which is pricey I would stick with your 2600K till Ice Lake.

Or start to take advantage of new instruction sets. There is a finite amount of parallelization that can be made to a highly serial task like gaming. 

Big game developers just keep putting it off but they'll have to start writing code for higher than 4C 8T CPU's otherwise the PC gaming industry will not move forward. 

the 2600k is still capable IMO, upgrade isn't that necessary but the choice is yours

it's because games are graphically demanding and until you use a very unbalanced config like for example a GTX 1080ti for 1080p gaming (which is stupid BTW' don't do that) there is not much those intel cpu's can't handle in modern titles...a good fast quad-core is still what you need for gaming, and intel has increased IPC over the years but only slightly, and even with a sandy-bridge CPU most games are still GPU bound, meaning that a faster CPU will only ever so slightly bump up performance.
 
I would stick to your CPU for another gen...coffee lake is a response to ryzen FOR NOW all intel could do is add a couple cores for free...but i bet they are now hard on the drawing boards and next gen IPC increase will probably be substantial and you'll regret your purchase...i think. it only make sense.

Where the heck are the 1700 vs. 7700K videos? All I'm seeing are 1800X or 1700X videos, which is great if you are looking at rivalling a 6800k or 6900k, but from what I've heard already, the 1700 is the best deal (where are the benchmarks of it though??)

Definitily go with the cryorig H7, It's $30 and surprisingly effective
 
https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487640277&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+h7

I think a lot of people would strongly recommend that you not use any automatic overclocking, as they're typically very inefficient.
 
I would go into your BIOS, and try these settings (or whatever your motherboard's equivalent are):
 
Turbo Ratio (By All Cores): 45
Load-Line Calibration: 50% (High)
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control (if Asus motherboard): Asus Optimized
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: +0.04v (never leave voltage offset on Auto, as it will way overvolt)
Speed Step: Enabled
C1E, C6: Enabled
 
 
A lot of that stuff doesn't necessarily have to be modified, to get a good and stable OC. It's mainly the Turbo Ratio, Load-Line Calibration (LLC), CPU Voltage mode, and its offset value that need to be configured. The rest might help with stability, but also might be unnecessary.
 
After an OC is set up, then run it in Prime 95 for a few hours (maximum burn, small ffts), while making note of what voltage and temperature it's running at, using something like CPUID, or CPU-Z for voltage, and Real Temp for CPU temperatures.
 
If that's not stable, and your system crashes, then I would increase the voltage offset to +0.05v. If it's all stable, and the max voltage and temperatures that you see in CPUID or CPU-Z are within a good spec, I would then start adjusting things, to find the more perfect overclock for your system. For an OC of 4.6 - 4.8v, you'll probably have to increase the voltage offset beyond +0.04. You also might be able to get 4.5 Ghz with a lower voltage offset than +0.04v - the exact amount of offset needed can be different for every specific CPU.
 
It's a good idea to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you're going to overclock, because the stock cooler isn't very good, and won't cool the CPU enough for a very good OC. A CoolerMaster 212 Evo is like $35 USD, and does a great job.