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  1. The GTX 1660 Ti is a great card, but it can be considered a "mid tier" card for relative performance and power usage compared to others currently available. For instance, The 8800 GTX was Nvidia's 2nd best of the 8000 series, and it had a TDP of 155W. The GTX 1080 Ti is basically the 2nd best of the GTX 1000 series, and it has a TDP of 250W. That's a 100W increase from 2nd best then to 2nd best now.
  2. There's also inflation to consider. The 8800 GTX was around $600 when it was released late 2006/early 2007. Convert that to today's dollars, and you get $743.
  3. GPUs have become more complex than CPUs, making the high end ones more expensive to manufacture. They also tend to use high bandwidth RAM specialized for video processing, which costs more than your regular PC RAM. GPUs are hotter and more power hungry than they were 10 years ago, which means they need bigger coolers to keep from overheating, and more users are demanding silent coolers which further increases the cost. Manufacturing costs overall have also risen considerably over the past 10 years, and the manufacturers need to make a profit in order to invest in R&D to stay on top. If the manufacturers were working at break-even income, they wouldn't be able to afford good R&D.
  4. If it's 70C under load at stock speed, you'll definitely want a new cooler before overclocking. The maximum rated temperature for the Q9650 is 71.4C according to Intel. Some people push them beyond that, but it's best to keep it below.
  5. The 1440p 144Hz monitor has a sharper image and smoother motion (assuming the ultrawide has a lower refresh rate), but the ultrawide will give you a few extra inches of viewing on the sides. The 1080p ultrawide also has fewer pixels, so it won't take quite as much processing from the GPU to run it.
  6. The Ryzen 7 3700X is only 65W at stock speed, so if you want a decent white cooler that will also be very quiet, I'd suggest the Deepcool Gammaxx 400WH. The heatsink is more than enough to keep a 65W CPU cool even with the fan at low speed, and if you don't like the stock fan, it's easy to swap out for a really nice one. I use a Gammaxx 300 with an alternate 1,000RPM 120mm fan on my Core i5 at home, and it's so efficient that I don't even turn it up past a basically silent 500RPM unless it's under heavy load. Nice choice on the monitor mount, by the way.
  7. We use Adobe Premier to make our product videos, and it is a well designed and powerful program. At home, I use VideoPad Home Edition, which is similar to Premier but a lot cheaper. It's also kind of slow processing 4K video, but it gets the job done. For the most basic of basic editing (quickly splicing some HD video and slideshows together), it's still possible to download Windows Movie Maker. It's a fairly weak program, but it usually works.
  8. Looks like you have an open 3.5" bay behind the HDD, so you can get a 2.5" adapter to hold the SSD. Beyond that, you should only need a SATA data cable. Is there a free SATA power connector from your power supply (same as the one on the HDD), or are all the connections used up? SATA II will limit the speed of the SSD, but it will still be much faster than the HDD. I made this upgrade on a couple of my old computers to give them new life, and they still run usably fast as a result.
  9. They'll usually have the same coating if they're the same panel. The company can special order with a different coating of course, but most likely for an additional cost.
  10. I also prefer my PC to be as quiet as possible, and have experimented with it a lot over the past 10 years or so. From what I've found: A good quality air cooler will always be quieter than a water cooler unless you're overclocking to a level where an air cooler can no longer handle it. Noctua's are some of the best around for CPU cooling, but if your CPU isn't especially hot, you can get something like a cheap Gammaxx tower cooler and swap the cheap fan for a nicer one if needed. For graphics cards, the blower style coolers make more noise than the multi-fan coolers, so I prefer multi-fan types (MSI and EVGA do very well on these). You do have to make sure the case is a little better ventilated to compensate for the card's lack of exhaust. Just about any case can be a "silent" case depending on the parts you use and how they're installed. One designed for silence will be quietest of course, but it's possible to work with a cheap one and make it just as or nearly as quiet. If you have a lot of mounts for fans, install a bunch and run them at low RPM. For my PC, the case was designed for style over silence, but with 4 120mm fans running at 500RPM, it's inaudible unless I put my ear on it (I turn them up to 1,000 when under load, and it's still fairly quiet). More fans running at low speed are quieter than fewer fans running at high speed. Also, for intake fans, don't install them directly against a mesh or grill. Try adding spacers to get them at least 3/8" away from the mesh/grill, which will significantly cut down turbulence noise. When used for intake, honeycomb grills sound oddly similar to a swarm of bees unless you space the fan away from it. Rubber pins can also help by reducing or eliminating motor and vibration noise through the case. SSDs are of course way quieter than HDDs, but if an HDD is in use, try finding a way to soft mount it. For instance, get a 2.5" laptop HDD instead of a 3.5", and use soft mounts to mount in in the 3.5" bay. I hope this all helps!
  11. A driver board like that one connected to the graphics card is probably your best option. Just make sure you get one that's compatible with your screen (you can usually find the part and revision numbers on the back of the screen)! The driver board in your link is compatible with these screens: 11.6inch 1920x1080: N116HSE-EA1 N116HSE-EA2 N116HSE-EJ1 N116HSE-EB1 13.3inch 1920x1080: N133HSE-EA1 N133HSE-EA3 N133HSE-EB1 N133HSE-EB3 14inch 1920x1080: B140HAN01.0 B140HAN01.1 B140HAN01.2 B140HAN01.3 15.6inch 1920x1080: B156HAN01.1 B156HAN01.2 B156HTN03.0 LP156WF4-SP N156HGE-EA1 NV156FHM-N31 NV156FHM-N41 17.3inch 1920x1080: N173HCE-E31 N173HGE-E11 N173HGE-E21 B173HTN01.0 B173HTN01.1
  12. VIVO-US

    Display mount

    Yes, we also make quite a few of those! Here are our two best value models: STAND-V002 (basic articulating arms) - https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V002/dp/B009S750LA STAND-V002O (full motion arms) - https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Counterbalance-STAND-V002O/dp/B01N2YFO5Z
  13. VIVO-US

    Case fans

    It's most efficient to have front and bottom fans positioned for intake, and top and rear fans for exhaust.
  14. Many of the high end cards now have semi-passive cooling, meaning the fans won't kick in until the GPU reaches a certain temperature. My EVGA 980 is the same way, and the silence when not gaming is very nice! Which card do you have?
  15. VIVO-US

    Case fans

    As long as that small opening at the bottom isn't blocked, adding fans to the front could help a little with airflow. Adding fans to the 2 openings on the PSU shroud could also help circulate more air to the graphics card.